In my 357 mag I shoot 100 hardcast 38 special followed by 50 357mag each week. Someone at the range told me that by shooting the jacketed bullets after the hardcast that the harder jacketed bullets will clean out some of the lead residue left by the hardcast bullets. I have never heard anything like this before. Is there any truth to what he told me?
Will Jacketed Bullets Clean Lead
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Hammerhead
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I've heard that before but I don't believe it. I think it just makes it harder to clean.
Shot with a guy years ago who used that as an excuse to for a very hot .357 load after .38's. Muzzle flash was literally like a camera flash bulb. And a great big BANG.
No. If you're shooting .357's after .38's, you need to clean the cylinders. A .45 brush does that well. Shooting a jacketed bullet after cast will polish the lead nicely though.
No. If you're shooting .357's after .38's, you need to clean the cylinders. A .45 brush does that well. Shooting a jacketed bullet after cast will polish the lead nicely though.
polyphemus
New member
Can't beat a Phos bronze brush to do the job.
I've been doing it for over 30 years. Works for me.
But I wouldn't shoot 100 lead, followed by 50 jacketed. It's more like 20 or 30 lead, followed by a cylinder of jacketed - repeat until your shooting day is done. Makes all the difference in the world when it comes to cleaning time.
But I wouldn't shoot 100 lead, followed by 50 jacketed. It's more like 20 or 30 lead, followed by a cylinder of jacketed - repeat until your shooting day is done. Makes all the difference in the world when it comes to cleaning time.
FrankenMauser
New member
Jacketed after lead = polished lead.
It's still there, but shiny!
Don't waste your time or ammo. Leading needs to be cleaned out properly.
Shooting jacketed bullets over lead fouling just smashes it into the lands and grooves and makes it look a little better.
It's still there, but shiny!
Don't waste your time or ammo. Leading needs to be cleaned out properly.
Shooting jacketed bullets over lead fouling just smashes it into the lands and grooves and makes it look a little better.
For the above reasons, this practice has been documented to raise pressures, occasionally significantly and dangerously. The jacketed bullets don't have sharp leading edges, so they burnish the lead into the bore and smooth it over rather than scrape it out. It acts sort of like a very thick grease, but one that doesn't evaporate as you shoot.
Back when I first started shooting centerfire revolvers, I was told to shoot jacketed bullets after lead ones to clean barrels, and I'd look down the bore afterward and it looked smooth and shiny and I thought I had cleaned it. Then one day I ran a clean bore brush through one these "clean" revolver bores a couple of times. I can't recall why. Looking into the bore with a bore light, that shiny smooth looking surface had all turned matte and dark. It was the lead surface the brush had scratched and raised a little.
Most guns are made stronger than is strictly required, and that saves a lot of people from getting into too much trouble with these kinds of ideas. But a gun that fouls badly enough can accumulate enough lead that the barrel starts springing out as the jacketed bullet passes through it and over the lead accumulation. It can make bad over-pressure trying to flow a thick layer of lead down the tube. Besides, why put even a gun that will tolerate it under that extra stress? You just need the Chore Boy, a Lewis Lead Remover, or some NO-LEAD. It'll come out.
Back when I first started shooting centerfire revolvers, I was told to shoot jacketed bullets after lead ones to clean barrels, and I'd look down the bore afterward and it looked smooth and shiny and I thought I had cleaned it. Then one day I ran a clean bore brush through one these "clean" revolver bores a couple of times. I can't recall why. Looking into the bore with a bore light, that shiny smooth looking surface had all turned matte and dark. It was the lead surface the brush had scratched and raised a little.
Most guns are made stronger than is strictly required, and that saves a lot of people from getting into too much trouble with these kinds of ideas. But a gun that fouls badly enough can accumulate enough lead that the barrel starts springing out as the jacketed bullet passes through it and over the lead accumulation. It can make bad over-pressure trying to flow a thick layer of lead down the tube. Besides, why put even a gun that will tolerate it under that extra stress? You just need the Chore Boy, a Lewis Lead Remover, or some NO-LEAD. It'll come out.
g.willikers
New member
There's no substitute for elbow grease, bore scrubbing paste, a strong cleaner and a Lewis lead removing tool for the most stubborn deposits.
Chore Boy brand noted below is spun copper. You will have to look for quite some time to find the literal brand in a store. Take a magnet if you want to verify. Most any other brand you find will be steel with a wash and not what you are looking for.
Stores like Ace Hardware around me carry Chore Boy. Of course you can find them at various online offerings. Nearby Walmart and other grocery stores near me carry other brands which are steel, and lower cost.
http://www.choreboyscrubbers.com/en/Products/Ultimate_Scrubbers_Pure_Copper.aspx
Stores like Ace Hardware around me carry Chore Boy. Of course you can find them at various online offerings. Nearby Walmart and other grocery stores near me carry other brands which are steel, and lower cost.
http://www.choreboyscrubbers.com/en/Products/Ultimate_Scrubbers_Pure_Copper.aspx
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You can get the copper Chore Boy thru Walmart.com
I just ordered 3 boxes of them last month.
Matter of fact, one of the boxes only had one pad in it (supposed to have 2). Even though I ordered thru Walmart.com, the pads came from Bic Warehouse. I sent them a message thru the contact link to note that the box was factory sealed from Spic N Span (the manufacturer), a nice young lady contacted me and inquired if I wanted a refund or the Chore Boy.
I explained that even though it was not Bic Warehouse fault, the sent a full box 4 days later.
I just ordered 3 boxes of them last month.
Matter of fact, one of the boxes only had one pad in it (supposed to have 2). Even though I ordered thru Walmart.com, the pads came from Bic Warehouse. I sent them a message thru the contact link to note that the box was factory sealed from Spic N Span (the manufacturer), a nice young lady contacted me and inquired if I wanted a refund or the Chore Boy.
I explained that even though it was not Bic Warehouse fault, the sent a full box 4 days later.
FrankenMauser
New member
Chore boy copper scrubbers are still copper.
I know of no other brand that still is, though. All other dish scrubbers seem to be plated steel.
Find the Chore Boy brand, and you're good to go. Try to save a few pennies by going with an off-brand, and you'll get steel.
I bought two 2-packs of the scrubbers in about 2009. I'm still using material from those scrubbers, today (though I'm almost out). At least for the amount of lead that I shoot, the scrubbers last quite some time.
I just cut off the crimped end, open up the scrubber, cut little strips out of the material with tin snips, layer up the strips, stick them in a plastic bag, and I'm set for quite a while.
I know of no other brand that still is, though. All other dish scrubbers seem to be plated steel.
Find the Chore Boy brand, and you're good to go. Try to save a few pennies by going with an off-brand, and you'll get steel.
I bought two 2-packs of the scrubbers in about 2009. I'm still using material from those scrubbers, today (though I'm almost out). At least for the amount of lead that I shoot, the scrubbers last quite some time.
I just cut off the crimped end, open up the scrubber, cut little strips out of the material with tin snips, layer up the strips, stick them in a plastic bag, and I'm set for quite a while.
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