Why why why does Glock limp wrist?

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The funny thing about this thread is someone hanging on for a series of pistols that don’t work for him. That’s a textbook dysfunctional relationship. Move on, there’s nothing irreplaceable about Glocks. They are a role filler with many, many, equally competent alternatives.
 
Gats Italian said:
The funny thing about this thread is someone hanging on for a series of pistols that don’t work for him. That’s a textbook dysfunctional relationship. Move on, there’s nothing irreplaceable about Glocks. They are a role filler with many, many, equally competent alternatives.
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If you read my post I stated I own quite a few Glocks which is why I’m even bothering trying to make them work. Not all of us have thousands to throw away on new pistols to replace them.
Sure I can sell them all but that’s a huge loss and amount of time. If I try to sell say a G43 or G26 to the stores out here I have been told $150 to $200 even though they are in great condition.
But I’m already trying to sell them online at the moment which takes longer then normal as my state requires it to go through an FFL dealer. Which 5 or so years ago private party sells did not require that, so online sales was much, much more active and more competitive price wise.
 
If you read my post I stated I own quite a few Glocks which is why I’m even bothering trying to make them work.
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You own all those Glocks yet never encountered this issue before the injury?

When you kept comparing your Glocks to the XDs and the Shield I assumed you owned those pistols, until the later posts clarifying the rentals. My point was to simply use one of those in the meantime, if you owned them. With the price of a Shield, around $350 or so online, for the number of times you say you've rented one and then put hundreds of rounds through it you'd likely be 1/3 of the way towards the purchase price.
 
Yeah, I think I wasted way too much on rentals....I thought maybe it’s my Glock or the mag... Nope. I’ve rented even the same Glock just to see if mine was the issue, but nope. If anything the Glock 42 seemed to function just fine if I recall correctly. It’s been a few months or so since I rented anything, all the shooting I did was a couple or months ago or longer.
I just got reminded of this since I was going to purchase a new handgun and was trying to decide if I want to keep my Glocks or not.

In the last decade or however long it’s been I probably have only shot the Glocks maybe half a dozen times - until this year I actually started to go to the range and noticed the issues.

But I think my best solution is just to move on and forget about trying to make the Glocks work.
 
TunnelRat said:
I've been shooting Glocks for years now and I have to go out of my way to get the pistol to limpwrist. That said, and this is just a comparison not an insult, my wife has shot most of the pistols I own and she only limpwrists Glocks. I'm not entirely sure the reason. There are a lot of pistols out there. If Glocks don't work for you there's nothing wrong with choosing something else.

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It’s technique.

Yes, the construction absorbs new recoil than the latest polymer pistols and certainly more so than any alloy pistol but if your technique is correct it should not be an issue.

I try to assist SHOOTERS now it pad manufacturer’s pockets so if the SHOOTER addresses what is known in many corners it will transfer to ANY pistol.

I “came off of” Steel Government Model 1911s and they mask a lot of poor technique which I found out very quickly trying to shoot Glocks well.

Technique.


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I don't doubt it is technique. But if there are other polymer framed pistols out there that don't present this issue then depending on the money and time one has to burn to develop that technique, I understand people going to those other pistols.

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By using the support hand as a brace by torquing down at the wrist, you can control the recoil of the gun that otherwise wants to make the gun flip up.

At 6:29 of this video the instructs talks about the role that the support hand has to control the recoil of the gun;

https://youtu.be/6jjMwOoLeGw

Sight alignment, sight picture, and trigger control are the three factors that allow you to hit the target properly, and a proper grip technique is necessary to maintain these factors.
 
If you don't have the money to buy/trade for something that works for you then I certainly wouldn't waste anymore money on sending hundreds of rounds downrange with sloppy form trying to induce a limpwrist.
 
I “came off of” Steel Government Model 1911s and they mask a lot of poor technique ...
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I would suggest that "steel" doesn't mask anything. If its not an issue shooting a steel 1911 then it isn't poor technique for that gun.

All recoil operated semi automatics require something to recoil against. Generally this the mass of the gun, and the shooter's grip. Some guns seem to work ok without a firm grip. Some do not. Sometimes its fairly constant across a model, sometimes its unique to an individual gun.

From what is described, other polymer frame pistols work ok for you. Other GLOCKS work ok for you. You've shot the same model Glock at rental and had the same problem yours does.

And the Glock that give you issues works ok when other people shoot it..
(have it got this right? )

All semi autos are a balancing act. The are designed to operate within a fairly narrow range of conditions. Some guns operating range is larger than others. It seems that you have found a certain model Glock with a preferred operating range where your usual grip is borderline.

You can try different springs, see if a lighter or heavier recoil spring changes your results. It might, but it might not. I can't say, I've shot several, but don't own any "combat Tupperware". I don't do Glocks, don't like them. Personal thing, doesn't apply to you...;)

I used to think their slogan "Glock Perfection" was just advertising hubris. Distasteful, but irrelevant. Now, I'm wondering if that slogan isn't actually referring to the need for the shooter to be "perfect" in order for them to work. (Perfect being what ever grip is needed to have the pistol function properly)

I understand the frustration, when you are doing what seems right, and what works fine for all your other guns, but one gun (or one specifc model) chokes when you shoot it, and someone else, doing what appears to be the same thing you do has the same gun run like a sewing machine.
Its not just you. Its not just the gun. It is a specific and unique combination of factors of you AND the gun, together.

I don't think anyone can tell you how to fix things over the internet. Not sure we could even watching you shoot. All we can do is suggest things that MIGHT make a difference. What actually fixes your problem might only be discovered by trial and error.
Good Luck.

Oh, one thing I can tell you, if you are looking to get the most from selling a gun, do not sell it to a store, pawnshop, or dealer. Generally they will only give you about half of what its worth, or less. If you need some money NOW, and can accept the loss, fine. If you want to get closer to full value, don't sell it TO them, sell it THROUGH them, on consignment. It will take longer to get your money and they will still take a bite (maybe as much as 15% or so, depends on the dealer) but you'll get more than selling it TO them.

Best value is usually obtained by selling the used gun privately, then going through an FFL dealer(s) (and paying their fees) for the actual transfer as the law requires.
 
can anyone cycle their slides by “slinging” their glocks one handed?
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I can't do that with any of my Glocks. I can do it with some of my other autopistols. It takes a lot of effort and I don't believe it has any utility as a technique for operating the slide since it is not consistent.
 
The Glock's frame flexes, absorbing energy that would otherwise be used for cycling the action.

The Glock is therefore more prone to your limpwristing than, say, steel pistols.
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this may be true but the bottom line is that your hand is not resisting the recoil as strongly as is necessary for the recoil to cycle that action. Maybe the glock has a higher axis that causes it to roll some rather than have a straighter recoil? It doesn't matter. You have three options that are easy. create more recoil with heavier ammo, create less resistance by lightening the spring, or strengthen your hands and arms so that your can hold steady as the thing goes through the entire cycle of breaking loose from the lugs and the slide going to the complete rear of the frame.

Good luck.
 
But I think my best solution is just to move on and forget about trying to make the Glocks work.
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I have to agree. When it comes to relying on any pistol that requires a precise holding technique in order to insure proper functioning for whatever reason, I want no part of it if I'm carrying the gun for self-defense purposes. In real life, it's not always possible to acquire the perfect grip in a self-defense situation. I would pass on any pistol that requires same, even if it means taking a hit on what you paid for it in terms of what you hope to get for it.
 
I have a question about this frame flex thing--not saying I don't believe it--but wouldn't the slide and/or slide rails show notable signs of wear pretty quickly if this were of any significant consequence?
 
I don't know just why - mine doesn't - but I would not rely on grip, ammo, or holding my mouth right. I would shoot something else out of the guns that function for you.
 
Never had a limp-wristing FTE/FTF issue with my Glock 19, with about 3,000 rds through it at this point.

However, I just got back from a fundamentals of defensive handgun class that I help out with when I get a chance, literally an hour ago, and observed two shooters having chronic FTF/FTE issues with their Glocks. One was a Glock 43, and the other was a Glock 23. Based on what I saw, it looked to be a technique issue. I swear these guys were trying to outdo each other on how high they could let their muzzles flip. As a result, nearly every mag each shooter shot had some kind of a malfunction. both were using S&B ammo.

I have to admit that I was surprised that their Glocks had so much trouble, as mine has been fairly trouble-free.

And both of these guys were young, apparently fit, slightly above average size men.

Anyway, like I said, my belief is that it was the result of a weak/improper grip, though my and the instructor's attempts to solidify their grips didn't seem to help much.
 
Whether it's your wrist or the Glock's performance is neither here or there.
If you like the gun, would you consider trying a good wrist brace or perhaps a wrap when you shoot it? That will tell you fairly quickly whether the issue is more you than Glock or vice versa. My BIL had a Kahr (CM9 I believe) that needed a very firm grip to operate properly. It's just the way some guns are.
More often than not this is prevalent on lighter weapons with a substantial bullet charge. And just like life every gun isn't suited for every one.
 
If you want to try to stick with Glocks, then maybe look into working on the way you grip the gun.

This guy shoots Glocks very well and his grip is part of it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45QhpvY9LZc

Your hands are not exactly the same as his, so you may not be able to duplicate his grip exactly--in fact, that shouldn't be your goal. The goal is to use the principles and basics he's explaining to build a grip on the gun with your own hands.

For example, I can't torque my weak hand forward like Vogel can without causing pain, but I can get my weak hand on the gun, making as much contact as I can and getting as high on the grip as possible to help control the recoil.

Here's another video from a different shooter. You can see the similarities in the two and get an idea of what needs to happen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJrA7wMXuuQ

If you build a good grip, then grip-related malfunctions should be minimized.

Even if, for some reason you can't get Glocks to work for you, the techniques in the video will help you when shooting other guns as well.
 
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