Why resize NEW brass?

I always F.L. size new brass, then trim and uniform the flash-holes and primer pockets, too. I just do it as a start to keep a case consistency on a particular lot of brass (usually a 50 count), and because I have the time and rather enjoy it anyway. I do this with Rem, Win and Fed brass. With Lapua brass (and the new Peterson brass I just started to use in my '06s) I just check case length after F.L. sizing and load 'em up. I've found Lapua and the new Peterson brass to be very consistent in case length; not generally so with the other brands mentioned.

I would imagine the amount of ammo needed to be reloaded, and the frequency of using the reloading bench no doubt can determine one's own steps in case prep practice. I try as hard as I can in the consistency of my reloading, range time and rifle maintenance to make that one good, confident shot on a critter. For me, that's what it all comes down to.
 
Yep, full length resize, trim, deburr flash holes no matter the brand.

I just love brass prep, it's my favorite. Right up there with a shot to the jewels.

RJ
 
You can seat a bullet, neck/mouth will be round at that point. The bullet may not be tight enough to withstand loading into the chamber (what I had going on) the cases may also need trimming. I now resize, trim and chamfer new rifle brass.
The simple answer to 'Why" is because it ain't right even tho it's new!
 
I too have 300 savage rifles
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I know my dies are set to function reliably all 300 brass into my rifle's chambers. Than again most center-fire rifle brass I fire (except 30wcf & 32 special) has been trimmed/resized with S.B. dies. Using S.B. dies limit life times expectancy of such brass. No worry here. 4-5 S.B. resizings is sufficient. Been fortunate over the years to be given or acquire first fire Federal brand brass of 30-06- 300 savage-270- 1/4 bore 06- 243-223.
 
Let me get this right. New brass, you slide one into the chamber (plain, empty, no primer) and it fits fine. Hmmm

Then we resize it so it fits better? Really?

Ok, granted not everyone has a Lyman M die if you have case mouth issues (I recommend them) which is what I do. Trim, sure (if you trim trim).

Big difference between doing what helps or is needed vs just doing it because.

I have shot 32 caliber (and reloaded it at one time, must have been nuts), 9mm, 38, 44, 45, 41 not to mention 270/06/7.5 Swiss/308/7mm.

I never had a new case that did not fit.

I have fired a few wrong rounds in guns (clearly they were smaller). Sure did not look so good when done. Kind of make the smaller is better out the window me thinks (either you don't resize or you make it smaller than it was)
 
cases are not true from packaging and shipping. Resize it all. I found out the hard way that it is a must for reliability.
 
I would be curious what your definition of reliability is? Going boom has nothign to do with cases normally.

The theory or neck sizing is based on you have the most accurate case from fire forming to a chamber not an arbitrary re-size that is to a nominal chamber.

And is a die more accurate than a real chamber?

Seems odd that in 40 years of reloading over all the calibers I never had a reliability of any definition .

And in fact I both have the gauges (now) and the tools to determine what at least the shoulder of the chamber is (as well as it is at least to the size specification that will take a gauge)

Now having only 3 custom barrels may cloud my thinking a bit and cases that needed no sizing to fit those chambers.

And of course as Bart B will remind us (rightfully) fit of the barrel to the receiver is important (though Savage receivers with their two piece bolt head provide some adherence to compensation)

My experience is I am the biggest factor in accuracy, given some basic good reloading procedures.
 
If you use a cartridge spinner that holds a rimless bottleneck cartridge relative to the dial indicator like it is in the chamber when fired, you'll see full length sizing dies produce straighter case necks best centered on the shoulder and therefore straighter bullets, too.

Too bad they're not commercially available. They all are based on the cartridge laying on the chamber bottom when fired; fact is, they don't. Case shoulders are driven hard into, well centered in the chamber shoulder before the primer fires
 
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the necks can get banged up and out of round depending on how well it is packaged
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Lyman M die is your friend.

I don't buy the packaging. Lapua comes in the blue tubs and I had a number of dented case mouths. I think its the processing.

Worse than cases dropped off the bench, must have a shell fall of 10 feet at the factory.

Ironical my once fired RP cases and low cost PPU have been dent free.

The 6.5 Lapua x Lapua brass that came in was fine, previous 308 and 06 had a plethora of dents, just ran em all through the M die.
 
Apparently it works well enough to not resize new brass with some brands of brass in some calibers. Maybe even most calibers, but certainly not all. Hasn't anybody else here noticed that .451" diameter bullets are way too loose to load in a lot of new, unsized 45 Colt cases? Unless you are loading .456" lead bullets, always resize new 45 Colt cases.
With bottle-neck rifle calibers I would at least want to chamber-test every case to know I can rely upon it. But by then, you might as well have just gone ahead and resized them.
So, I am in the camp that resizes and trims every rifle case, new or otherwise.
 
I will be the first to say I have not done anywhere near all cartridges. May be some to watch, shrug. But the 6.5s that just came in get trimmed and that is it. I think I will be able to tell if the bullet falls into the bottom of the case when I seat it.

If you are hunting, then reliability Uber Alles. But for that amount easy to test. Factory ammo though is usually good enough.

Bench rest? Reliability ? Kind of so what. Grab another cartridge if one does not fit but they fit if you do your end right. I like my powder misses as it shows me if I am jerking or flinching (I shoot 7.5 Swiss, 06 so after 5 hours it can be an issue)

Now I am a suspender and belt guy, I have a skinny butt. I do my extra where I have found its needed (or my wife has told me) and not where it isn't.
 
Re-loading with new brass

What do you guys do when reloading new brass. Do you remove the size/de-capper?

Why re-size a new brass ( or nickel)
 
In short, I do a full resize. It may be new brass but it could be dinged or banged up from shipping. Also, the specs of the dies may very well be slightly different than yours. working up loads with cases of a different dimension, or with different neck tension may give you inconsistent results compared to brass that was all resized on your dies.

Virgin winchester 30-06, straight out of the bag, also several were over max length and had to be trimmed. I now have serious trust issues with range brass. I have picked up old range brass that looked better.
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On a side note, yes also partly to ensure the same headspace and neck tension when working loads up, or between loads when using a favorite.
 
The way I see it, they're going to get run through my dies anyway (and repeatedly, over time) so why not start out with the sizing them?? (and cleaning up any dented/out of round mouths that happen when loose packed?

Back in the 70s, what little new brass I bought was bought by the box, and it came packaged exactly like factory loaded ammo except the the printing on the box. Each case was in its own compartment, except for Winchester's pistol brass (and small rifle stuff, like .22 Hornet) where the rounds were packed in rows base up, base down tight in the box.

Don't remember seeing any dinged or dented case mouths back then.

From the 80s on, when I was buying brass in lots of 100, packed in bags, then sometimes you'd see out of round mouths, mostly in straight walled cases, could almost count on at least one .45-70 case having an out of round mouth...

small pistol cases and bottle necked rifle, not so much...

I size them all, and check for length, trim if needed, or for unformity, and load. What are you losing? A little time? ONE load cycle from your case life?? Not that important to me.
 
I set the die up for 0.002” bump and fl size. This is the only way to be sure about fit, concentricity and neck tension.
 
Well I just loaded up some 300 Savage rounds for a 99F. New Hornady brass and all I did was inspect and lightly chamfer inside and outside case mouths. I also put a light crimp on the bullet (Hornady 150 SPs) when loaded. Only 10 rounds but all chamber and eject as intended. I always cycle ANY load I intend to use for hunting.

All bullets seated to the cannelure so no trimming was necessary and the seater die was set up for fired, resized, trimmed and chamfered brass.

I already had about 15 rounds loaded up. It's a hunting rifle so I am not loading hundreds of plinking rounds for it. I mounted a different scope so want to sight it back in.

I had a 99F that required small base dies (for fired brass) or it wouldn't chamber. I still have the dies but not the rifle as I sold it to a friend. The 99F I have now seems to have a bit roomier chamber but is still pretty tight.

I bought a used 300S neck sizing die just to see how it would work. When you use this die, bullets will seat loose so you can easily move the bullet up or down in the case just with your finger! No wonder I got it cheap :)
 
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