Why are Kahrs made so tight?

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Detail stripping involves a complete disassembly of the firearm. Or, at least as complete as is reasonable. Generally dovetailed sights are not driven out, some pinned/staked parts may be left in place, and some assemblies may not be taken apart.

Detail stripping a firearm is not usually necessary for normal maintenance. Field stripping is all that is required the vast majority of the time. However, it makes sense to periodically do a complete disassembly and inspection of a gun that is used heavily and/or carried daily. How often depends on the usage level and the conditions of carry.
 
^^^ John explained it well.

When a handgun is carried on a regular basis, over time it attracts all sorts of dust, lint, and dirt. If you occasionally just add a drop or three of oil with all that schmempf (technical term for "stuff") in there, it just gunks up the works, and some of the dirt may become abrasive. And if the oil isn't synthetic, it can start to turn into a varnish-like mess.

In short, every once in awhile (and IMHO a lot more often than three years) it's a good idea to take the gun apart so you can clean all the internal parts, then reassemble and lubricate with new, clean oil (or maybe grease on the sear tip and slide rails).
 
Bill Wilson, as I recall, made an argument that a tightly fitted gun was more reliable than a loosely fitted gun. As all the parts returned to battery in exactly the same way. Every time.
I have a very old Wilson Master grade 130 that’s very tight. And, the most reliable 1911 I’ve ever owned.
 
YOU FAILED TO MAINTAIN YOUR WEAPON SON

Loved the movie. Yes, you have to do a complete cleaning on a regular schedule. It is part of owning a firearm. Most especially a EDC. The striker channel's for example get dirty.(very important to keep clean) You do not want to find out your gun is dirty and will not fire when you need it. Persoanlly I am anal about cleaning. That OCD thing.

Simple enough to do.(if I can do it, anyone can do it) Just be sure and do not loose any of the little springs. (I buy extra just in case.)
Keep your magazines clean as well.

You failed to maintain your Weapon son. (Warning Graphic) Bad guy messed up with his dirty gun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5fhroOrvNk

Kahr disassembly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi3VFRll2L4
 
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I have cleaned and oiled it repeatably in the past, as well as put over 300 rds. through it but not for 2 years now
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Huh? For two years? :eek:

Dude, guns need more frequent love than that. What, were you locked in a time capsule or such? :rolleyes:

What I refer to tight is the slide and frame fit. Also, it takes strong hands to pull the slide back to lock it.
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Slide-to-frame fitment being "tight" is normally a good thing, but that's not what's making the slide "hard to pull back." It's called the recoil spring, ... that wirey-looking coiled thing that's under tension.

It's probably a factory XP spring, unless you dropped a Wolff's XP sprg in it 2 years ago and forgot about it.

This gun is not a good choice for weak hands or with arthritis.
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Join a gym. Ask the trainer to coach you through wrist-strengthening exercises. After a couple months of workouts, you'll be able to rack that slide like John Wick.

For arthritis, well, they make pills for that now.
 
JohnKSa said:
Detail stripping involves a complete disassembly of the firearm. Or, at least as complete as is reasonable. Generally dovetailed sights are not driven out, some pinned/staked parts may be left in place, and some assemblies may not be taken apart.

Detail stripping a firearm is not usually necessary for normal maintenance. Field stripping is all that is required the vast majority of the time. However, it makes sense to periodically do a complete disassembly and inspection of a gun that is used heavily and/or carried daily. How often depends on the usage level and the conditions of carry.
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For a striker fired gun it makes sense to occasionally take down the slide and clean out the striker channel, lest it get gunked up, which is a little beyond a field strip.
 
Agree, but Kahr's have a special hole that allows you to spray cleanear from a nozzle spray just for the striker channel. So diassembly is not always necessary to get it spic and span.
 
Most accurate factory gun on the market today is a rattle trap for fitment (Walther PDP).

Having owned 5 Diamondback DB9s, I don't know if you know this, but Diamondback copying your design isn't a compliment. Also, that was more than a decade ago.

Every gun manufacturer holds a patent.

Again. Circular.

The op asked why is it so tight. Easy, they designed it that why. Does it benefit Kahr over another brand? no.

Kahrtalk has an "approved list" for 380 that will and will not function in the CW380. Name another gun with this problem. Kel Tec PMR30 is the only I can think of.
 
Most accurate factory gun on the market today is a rattle trap for fitment (Walther PDP).
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Where is the proof of this statement. You mean in your own hands?


Seecamps had an approved list for their .32's. Not sure of their .380's.
 
Thanks guys, I thought that is what you meant. I don't trust me, even with video help, to completely tear down the frame and remove the breech block in my Sig 228.

When I used to carry my P6, normal take down and removing the grips to blow out the lint from the hammer spring was as far as I ever went. I'll talk to a good friend and see what he would charge me for the job.

Bill
 
wild cat mccane said:
Most accurate factory gun on the market today is a rattle trap for fitment (Walther PDP).
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The PDP I own isn’t fit as tightly as say the Wilson Combat 1911 I owned, but it’s not what I would call a rattle trap. I’d say it’s as tight as most production polymer framed pistols I own, more than some and less than others.

I get you’re trying to make a point that tightness to the point where it impedes function isn’t needed for accuracy, but you’re letting your desire to make a point get away from the truth a bit, imo.

I also think this thread has a dubious purpose and future.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Recently got anew Kahr CW45, without a doubt my sweetest gun…My number one had been a Beretta 92, which still is one fine gun,
The Kahr is so easy to rack,,nice trigger pull, and the recoil seems less than that of a 9. I am looking at other Kahr’s now also. their quality is very very good, and I like the tight fitment.
 
Finally got it apart for oiling.

After 2.5 years of not having my CW 380 apart, I did it. Was so hard to get a grip on that small slide, had to use an oven mit, I imagine the larger framed Kahrs are easier, man, you have to have super strong hands to do it though.

There was still oil throughout internally, despite all those years of pocket carry in 100 plus heat in TX, but the gun grease had bled off. I was using Outer's Gun Grease, I don't really like it, too watery. I may go back to using automotive bearing grease, stays put much better. Any suggestions on gun grease that you folks like?
 
Carl the Floor Walker
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Originally Posted by wild cat mccane View Post
Blaming people for hating Kahr is kinda dumb when another company came out with a correction to the Kahr mag follower and then Kahr updated (only 2 years ago) their mag follower without telling consumers...

Worst designed magazine on the market=Kahr.

(the company that fixed the mag follwer for Kahr is: https://lakelinellc.com)
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Sorry, but I have to laugh at that one.
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Why? It's not exactly a secret that the Kahr mag design is problematic to say the least.


Kahr still sells the same mag. and I have no problem with them. And I have about a dozen in 380 and 9mm ea. If some one desires to get the other mag follower it sure is easy and simple to do.
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Lucky you.
I've owned K9, Mk9, P9, P380 and CW9's ...........thats around five .380 mags and twenty 9mm mags. Not a one can retain the top round in a spare magazine.


If some one hates a gun for such a lame reason, then too bad for them.
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Seriously? I consider a mag that spits out the top round a serious issue on any gun. With a pocket pistol its more so.



Makes you wonder how much they shoot any guns.
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Or makes us wonder how often you shoot yours.;)


Kahr sell both followers right on their website. You would have to be pretty dumb not to find a simple follower if that were really a issue. And not many out there that do not have the intelligence to change out a follower.
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I dumped Kahr as a carry gun for several reasons, but the fragility of the magazine and its inability to retain rounds was number one.
 
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To the OP, I am sorry you asked a simple question and had to get this kind of nonsense that seems to go on some forums. It sounds like you may be a little inexperienced. Not trying to insult you.
Bottom line, YOU HAVE A GREAT FIREARM. One cherished by many and thousands of dedicated, experienced, fans over the years. If you have any questions about the Kahr's, I am sure myself or others that you can see here posting will answer your question. Again, sorry to see it have to turn into this nonsense.
You do need to clean your firearm more often. Again, if you need help just PM. Otherwise the same group of people will just start the same old thing.
 
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OP, I will leave you with this. It is a file I have had for a long time. I suggest if interested you make a copy. I am sorry, I do not have the author, or his expertise, but some for you to think about. I may have to delete it. But just trying to find a way to help you understand your question.

I'd like to see us stop confusing "tolerance" with "clearance." Tolerance is the allowed variance of a machined dimension to it's designed dimension. In other words, .500" +/- .002 is a tolerance reference where +/- .002" is the tolerance. The part can be anywhere from .498" to .502" and be within tolerance. Clearance is the space between 2 mating surfaces. so while Kahr may make parts that are .500" that mate with a part that's .498" that's .002" clearance not .002 tolerance. Other manufacturers than Kahr make their firearms with looser clearances, Kahr makes theirs with tighter clearances. If you say something is built to tight tolerances (a VERY, VERY good thing in machining) it means nothing in terms of how loose or tight the fitment of the parts is. Some will design and manufacture to loose clearances because they can't/don't/won't machine to tight tolerances (the tighter the tolerance the more expensive the machining is) and so must design in more clearance to make up for it. Ever held a gun that seems to rattle? That gun has wider clearances than the one that doesn't rattle. It may be made from parts with tolerances in the +/- .0002's but the clearances are much more open. My $.02 as a manufacturer, although I think people who don't understand the difference will always refer to tight "clearances" as tight "tolerances". My semantics rant over...carry on.
I don’t care about the naysayers’ criticism of Kahr’s break-in recommendation. It’s only common sense to make sure that a self protection firearm, or any mechanical device for that matter, should be broken in by the end user to assess its functionality.
Kudos to Kahr for being pragmatic.
Judging from what I have read in multiple gun forums over the past 20 years, it might behoove all firearms manufacturers to be honest and do the same."

unknown

All, I can tell you is this. I do have plenty of experience with mine and they are NOT going anywhere. All have proven to be exceptionally dependable, easy to shoot and easy to EDC. Yes, I am a fan boy and most likely will not be buying many more Pistols. Just totally happy with what I have.
 
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One of the few times I have ever heard a person complain about "tight tolerances" - usually it's about "crappy fit and finish" or "OMG, you can drive a truck through the gap in . . . . ."

Too tight? Too close of a tolerance? Just exactly is the issue? How many rounds have you put through it? How often do you shoot it? If it is your carry gun - I would assume that you have put a couple of Ks of rounds through it and you clean it after a shooting session and on a regular basis . . .

There are ways of smoothing handguns out regardless of if it is a semi or a revolver. I have used such things as auto paint buffing compound to smooth slides and rails out, etc. - but you have to CLEAN it completely afterwards.

I'm sorry . . . . but when I hear someone complain about "tight tolerances", it reminds me of a friend who was issued a 1911 in Nam . . . it was put together from parts and there were no "tolerances" - - - he said it rattled so badly that he was afraid to shoot it as well as carry it because you could hear it with every step. Unfortunately, not got "lost" in a firefight . . . his folks sent him a 357 Smith that DID have tight tolerances . . . they got ammo to him by sending it in a loaf of homemade bread - a loaf every few weeks.
 
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