Which handgun for grizzly?

Think if I were going to take the 480(and again, I would over the 10mm for a griz.), since it will be for an emergency type backup weapon that would most likely have to be deployed fast and used at closer distances, the scope would have to come off and my shooting skills with the irons honed with the load I planned to carry.
 
The scope part is a consideration depending on the dominant reason (the real reason) for carrying the handgun while hunting in that area. Scope comes off if the dominant rationale is personal defense for me.
 
This is a question I hear all the time.
I live very near a lot of grizzlies and I hunt among them all the time.
I am VERY aware of their capabilities, and of my own.
The simple answer is easy to give, but harder to fallow.

Here it is in a nut shell.

Bigger is better than little and faster is better than slower (as long as the bullet doesn’t fragment or expand too much.)

HOWEVER that comment is only related to the ballistic destruction caused by guns and their bullets.
That is only a small percentage of the equation.
No gun will “defend you”.
That’s your job.

So my advice is to shoot the most powerful deepest penetrating gun that YOU CAN SHOOT WELL.

Bigger means more recoil and often means more expense.
More expense means less practice for most people.
Less practice means less ability.
Less ability means less chance of winning the contest.

Shoot the most powerful handgun that you can hit a 10” ball with rolling across bumpy ground at 20 miles an hour.

I have a friend who shoots birds on the fly, with about 30% success with a SIG 210. Using 147 grain hard cast ammo I would bet his chances of surviving an attack from a grizzly are better than the chances of many other men I know who use 44s and 454 Casulls who can’t hit a Pepsi can standing still at 15 yards. (because they don't practice enough) A more powerful miss is still a miss.

"Ballistically speaking", using a 44 magnum with 300 or 320 grain LBT bullets is probably going to be a better option than a 357 magnum with 187 grain LBT bullets. This only because if you were to miss the brain pan, shoulder or spine of the grizzle by a small margin the bigger bullet does more damage than the smaller one.

BUT the smaller one may offer the shooter a faster 2nd shot. So we again come to the more important factor which is the shooter. That is a variable that changes from man to man (or woman to woman) so much that it can’t be nailed down at all.

So the discussion of guns and bullets is interesting, but by far less important than the discussion of training and marksmanship.

As in every fight, the contest goes to the best man a lot more often than it will to the best weapon.
 
The scope part is a consideration depending on the dominant reason (the real reason) for carrying the handgun while hunting in that area. Scope comes off if the dominant rationale is personal defense for me

Yep, already considered that. It's coming off if I choose that weapon.

Bigger means more recoil and often means more expense.
More expense means less practice for most people.
Less practice means less ability.
Less ability means less chance of winning the contest.

Shoot the most powerful handgun that you can hit a 10” ball with rolling across bumpy ground at 20 miles an hour.

I wouldn't consider either one of these guns cheap to shoot. I do practice pull and point drills and dry fire trigger drills. I know it's no substitute for actual live fire practice but I think it helps with muscle memory and overall performance.

I will try your rolling ball drill once the weather warms up. Thanks for the tip.
 
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When I went to Alaska to hunt a few years ago. The guide said ditch the side arm and just be ready with your rifle. But I did see that be had a 44 mag on his hip in addition to his 50 Alaskan.

I agree to go with what you shoot best but in my case that would be a 357 magnum or may be even a 22lr. I would not want to go up against grizz with either. A 10mm is roughly the equivalent of a hot loaded 357 magnum (give or take). Id go with your 480. Of the Guns I have I would use my BFR 45-70 Govt.
 
Are you talking about hunting or self-defense?

Oh wait....

For the record, I'm headed to the Bob Marshall area in Montana to chase elk. I forgot to mention that this is back up to my '06. In hind sight, I should have mentioned that to start with.

Whatever's lightest; that's rough country - S&W Mountain gun in .45 colt.

Having said that, far more important, of course, is your pepper spray. Avoidance/Using your brain is first defense. Pepper spray second. Gun last resort.
 
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Well, if you are considering a trip into bear country, pepper spray is a great thing to have.

But, it is just as important to have a buddy that is slower than you are. you really don't have to be faster than the bear, just faster than the other guy!

Mel
 
Grizzly calls

http://www.chuckhawks.com/firearms_defense_bears.htm

A lot of the stuff in this article has already been said, but I thought it was a good summary. Personally, I am terrible with handguns, so I would just keep the rifle handy.

Good job seeking out some knowledge about what to do for before you go out and get an elk down in bear country. I have a tendancy to go off carefree and figure out what stupid things I did later. I have heard stories about bears coming running in to the sound of rifle shots to take over the carcass. Kindof freaks a feller out a bit.
 
So is it wanton waste if I do not try to recover a downed deer from a grizzly or just plain good sense to let that bear enjoy his dinner.;)
 
I would have to say the 480. I've heard of people taking the African 'dangerous5' with a 460S&W. Plus the 460 is versatile, shoot 460 or 45, or 454 Casull.

Enjoy your trip!! My first solo backpacking trip was in the Bob Marshall. I was 13 and just had a Ruger Blackhawk 357. In case of a grizzly problem, my plan was to fire all 6 shots, throw the gun at it, drop my pack, and haul ***! My Grandfather dropped me off in the mtns east of Big Fork, picked me up 10 days later on the Hungry Horse side at a pre-arranged spot. But after 10 days and nearly 40 miles, I never saw one, (lots of sign though). Of course I wear a bell on my pack when in bear country (they don't want to see us either) but that's not an option when hunting.

Sigh.... I miss Montana.
 
I'm not under any dilusions that I can withstand a 15 to 20 second onslaught from even a 3 legged Griz, So I have little faith that anything short of a brain shot will save my hide.
I'd feel pretty confident that a 10mm with a 200gr heavy hard cast would do the job, if you can.
To find out the answer to that find you a hill you can shoot into and toss one of these up it with your shooting hand if you can draw and hit it before it gets back to you I'd say you have a chance.;)
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I have shot 500's, 460's 454's and 480's.i like the 480 and would feel safe with it. myself only have a 7 1/2" 44mag redhawk and a 44mag Taurus model 44 with a 4" barrel. I would choose the shorter Taurus with heavy loads for your situation. the 480 is good choice for you though.
 
Originally posted by Ruger480:

Thanks Mavracer. I was wondering how to safely go about shooting at a rolling ball. That solves it.


The issue with safety and shooting at a rolling ball isn't related to the ball. It's related to the ricochets off the ground while shooting at the rolling ball that presents the safety issue. Very few rounds, rifles or handgun, will not ricochet when shot at low angles to the ground. Unless one has a area where ricochets headin' off in all directions is not a problem, they should seriously reconsider the "rolling ball" target. Practicing quickly drawing and getting off a fast first round would probably be just as effective. Odds are, by the time you draw your back-up weapon and pull the trigger, the bear will be at Point Blank Range and his COM will be at arms length. Many recommend feeding the bear your support hand arm in order to get an open shot to the vitals.
 
Originally posted by mavracer:

Buck this game isn't use the hill to get the ball rolling you need to shoot it before it gets to flat ground


I kinda knew where you were coming from my friend, but still thought the advice about knowing what's behind your target is a valid one. Not all hills are shaped like a berm, nor are they all rock free. The little private range we have on my sons land is surrounded by bluffs. Chances of a bullet getting outta there is virtually impossible. Still in the wintertime, on frozen ground, I have seen rounds skip up the hill, sometimes making 45 degree turns until they find a tree. Nuttin behind it but public woods for 10 miles. Still I worry every time I hear that familiar whine.

I also meant what I said about practicing drawing and gettin' off a quick first shot. BUGs aren't always the most accessible because we never think we'll need 'em. We put 'em on our hip and then put a vest, sweatshirt of coat over the top and don't realize what we have done. If one is aware of a threat they should be ready with their primary weapon. If they are not, the initial reaction after realizing we are in danger, is not going to give one a lot of time against a legitimate Grizzly charge. Thus the idea of slowing them up a bit by feeding them your other arm.:D
 
Buck
Agree on both accounts,
I always figured I just run at the bear yelling and screaming, I figure maybe it'll think I'm not eating that it's gone bad lol.
 
The salient point is not energy or velocity on Grizzly, it's bullet construction. The 10mm was designed for two legged vermin and the bullets are designed accordingly. Your 480 Ruger would be dandy with 325gr Hornady or Hard Cast at 1300fps.

For me, my 45 Colt Ruger would be on my hip and loaded with 275 LFN @ 1200fps. My 1895 Marlin 45-70 would be in my hand with a mag full of 405s at 1800fps.
 
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