I use Pro Shot 1 Step CLP. Previously, for 20+ years, I used 0w20 Mobile One synthetic motor oil. A few years ago I was at a match in September, very cold day, and snowing. Started have failures on my pistols. A guy next to me let me borrow his Pro Shot. Failures went away. So I bought some Pro Shot and have been using it ever since regardless of the ambient temperature.
what gun oil do you use and why
- Thread starter Shadow9mm
- Start date
cc-hangfire
New member
CLP, Breakfree CLP to be exact. 90% of my shooting is w handguns, so CLP & a bore snake and a rag will do all I need. Sometimes I also use a brush (nylon or brass/bronze). I bought a gallon a feed years back & I've used about a quart. And I keep some choke tube grease or food grade grease on hand for rails.
These days it is P.A.O. with a little Moly added to it.
PAO gets everywhere so a drop creeps into where I need it to go. The Moly is for the wear surfaces like slide to frame and especially the inside of my barrels.
For a while Moly coated bullets were the thing; that is until people started to complain of the build up at the throat and first few inches of the barrel and how hard it was to get out. Too much of a good thing can become bad. A patch with a drop or two down a dry barrel leaves just a little behind throughout the length of the bore. That leaves a fairly even coat for the bullets to iron in for it to do what it does best.
PAO gets everywhere so a drop creeps into where I need it to go. The Moly is for the wear surfaces like slide to frame and especially the inside of my barrels.
For a while Moly coated bullets were the thing; that is until people started to complain of the build up at the throat and first few inches of the barrel and how hard it was to get out. Too much of a good thing can become bad. A patch with a drop or two down a dry barrel leaves just a little behind throughout the length of the bore. That leaves a fairly even coat for the bullets to iron in for it to do what it does best.
FrankenMauser
New member
FP-10. Because that's what I started with, it turned out to work great without gumming up, and it's affordable.
For applications where FP-10 is too thin, but I don't quite want grease: Slip-2000 EWL.
For grease: Moly. (I'm not a brand whore here. Whatever it was that was in the garage 10 years ago is what's on the bench now. And when I need some for the bench again, it'll be whatever is in the garage at that time.)
For applications where FP-10 is too thin, but I don't quite want grease: Slip-2000 EWL.
For grease: Moly. (I'm not a brand whore here. Whatever it was that was in the garage 10 years ago is what's on the bench now. And when I need some for the bench again, it'll be whatever is in the garage at that time.)
I've never really been UNhappy with any of the lubes I've used, but about fifteen years ago I was attracted to the ability to mix different viscosities of Wilson Ultimalube oil and grease, and bought a 15+ year supply (4-5 ounces?)!
I think it has been completely reformulated since, so can't comment on that.
I've just started using Ballistol on guns that are stored a lot and shot a little, as I can wipe-down the metal, wood, and leather with one product.
So far, so good.
I think it has been completely reformulated since, so can't comment on that.
I've just started using Ballistol on guns that are stored a lot and shot a little, as I can wipe-down the metal, wood, and leather with one product.
So far, so good.
Mr.RevolverGuy
New member
All depends
am I storing for a while or shooting often
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
Detailed corrosion test
am I storing for a while or shooting oftenhttp://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
Detailed corrosion test
Catchabullet
New member
Slip 2000 ewl and slide glide.
I have no preference. I do spray all metal parts of my firearms with Corrosion X for marine parts for corrosion prevention. But for the oils what ever is handy for me as it does not matter. I like ballistol because I can use it as a cleaner and lubricant at the same time as well as diesel fuel. Of what you have listed I've only used Hoppes and Rem oil. My synthetic motor oil is another one I use frequently as I use on my vehicles and if it handles the heat of combustion in the engine it will handle the firearms as well.
Various.
For some applications, I'll use Hornady One Shot because the carrier evaporates and leaves a dry lube in place. It's supposed to be a very good lube and also good protectant.
I use Dillon's Snake Oil for some things because it has a nice applicator, no smell at all and does an excellent job with lubrication. I have no idea how it is at corrosion protection.
I also use Lubriplate FMO-350AW for some things. I like that it is smell-free and non-toxic (food-grade, actually) and is supposed to be very good for corrosion protection. I like it for carry guns because of all those properties.
For wipedown and general light lubrication, I will use BreakFree CLP on occasion. Or maybe some other CLP. I have tried a lot of different ones and kept the ones that seemed to work well, so I have a number of different products on my workbench and I'll use whatever comes to hand for this kind of application.
I have Ballistol, but I use it mostly for cleaning and not so much as a lubricant.
For aluminum framed guns, I used either Lubriplate SFL-B or just white lithium grease on the aluminum rails to prevent wear.
For steel-to-steel contact, especially if it's hard contact or on obvious wear points, I use a "grease" I make from some kind of oil (usually BreakFree CLP) and very fine moly powder. Moly is supposed to be about as good as you can do for steel-to-steel lubrication for slickness and wear prevention. The oil is mostly there to make it easy to apply--It turns into a dry lubricant when the oil evaporates or migrates away. It's messy though, so it is only used in tiny quantities and in areas where it's unlikely to rub off onto things.
For some applications, I'll use Hornady One Shot because the carrier evaporates and leaves a dry lube in place. It's supposed to be a very good lube and also good protectant.
I use Dillon's Snake Oil for some things because it has a nice applicator, no smell at all and does an excellent job with lubrication. I have no idea how it is at corrosion protection.
I also use Lubriplate FMO-350AW for some things. I like that it is smell-free and non-toxic (food-grade, actually) and is supposed to be very good for corrosion protection. I like it for carry guns because of all those properties.
For wipedown and general light lubrication, I will use BreakFree CLP on occasion. Or maybe some other CLP. I have tried a lot of different ones and kept the ones that seemed to work well, so I have a number of different products on my workbench and I'll use whatever comes to hand for this kind of application.
I have Ballistol, but I use it mostly for cleaning and not so much as a lubricant.
For aluminum framed guns, I used either Lubriplate SFL-B or just white lithium grease on the aluminum rails to prevent wear.
For steel-to-steel contact, especially if it's hard contact or on obvious wear points, I use a "grease" I make from some kind of oil (usually BreakFree CLP) and very fine moly powder. Moly is supposed to be about as good as you can do for steel-to-steel lubrication for slickness and wear prevention. The oil is mostly there to make it easy to apply--It turns into a dry lubricant when the oil evaporates or migrates away. It's messy though, so it is only used in tiny quantities and in areas where it's unlikely to rub off onto things.
Geezerbiker
New member
Way back when in the Fidonet days, Ed Harris said that he only used automatic transmission fluid to lube guns. So I started doing the same and I've had good results.
No see no reason buy something more expensive if ATF works and is really cheap.
Tony
No see no reason buy something more expensive if ATF works and is really cheap.
Tony
Mongo_Bongo
New member
Breakfree CLP. Readily available and works fine.
Ignition Override
New member
Handguns: SEAL One
Rifles (semi auto): Breakfree CLP.
Rifles (semi auto): Breakfree CLP.
reynolds357
New member
Atf works. There are additives in it that dont make sense for firearms, but..