I typically field strip my Desert Eagle, then remove the firing pin and spring, remove the bolt and stabilizer pin.
I take the recoil spring assembly out of the slide and the gas piston off of the end.
Pour a bit of hoppes #9 or shooter's choice copper solvent into a coffee cup I don't use and drop the gas piston in it to soak along with the stabilizer pin and spring, bolt lock pin, and firing pin spring.
Then I pull out a hard bristle toothbrush and dip it in Hoppes #9 and scrub the internals of the frame until there are no powder residue marks or copper deposits left anywhere visible on the gun and then I scrub the internals (recoil spring assembly, etc.) There is one spot I don't knock myself out to clean and that is on the end of the slide assembly where the gas piston slides in.. sometimes when I clean it I'll stand the slide upright in a cup of solvent to loosen up the stuff on the end and scrub it off, but not every time.
I scrub the barrel with a copper brush and spray it down with rem oil, then run patches with Hoppes #9 through it until it comes back with little or no black markings.
I then sight check the barrel.. if it looks like a smooth mirror finish, I run one more clean patch through with Hoppes #9 and set the barrel aside.
After I get it all clean, I put it back together and apply a generous amount of Hoppes gun oil to the bolt and stabilizer pin and also to the recoil spring assembly and I lightly oil the slide area on the inside of the slide and on the frame.
Then I check the smoothness of the stabilizer pin motion and the slide.. and apply a bit more oil if needed. Once I'm happy with that, I lower the hammer, put the safety on and dip another toothbrush in rubbing alcohol and brush the chrome exterior to get the oil off.. then wipe it down with a paper towel.
At this point it looks like it did when I first opened the box.. and I put it back in the case.
It usually takes about an hour to clean it to my satisfaction.
I take the recoil spring assembly out of the slide and the gas piston off of the end.
Pour a bit of hoppes #9 or shooter's choice copper solvent into a coffee cup I don't use and drop the gas piston in it to soak along with the stabilizer pin and spring, bolt lock pin, and firing pin spring.
Then I pull out a hard bristle toothbrush and dip it in Hoppes #9 and scrub the internals of the frame until there are no powder residue marks or copper deposits left anywhere visible on the gun and then I scrub the internals (recoil spring assembly, etc.) There is one spot I don't knock myself out to clean and that is on the end of the slide assembly where the gas piston slides in.. sometimes when I clean it I'll stand the slide upright in a cup of solvent to loosen up the stuff on the end and scrub it off, but not every time.
I scrub the barrel with a copper brush and spray it down with rem oil, then run patches with Hoppes #9 through it until it comes back with little or no black markings.
I then sight check the barrel.. if it looks like a smooth mirror finish, I run one more clean patch through with Hoppes #9 and set the barrel aside.
After I get it all clean, I put it back together and apply a generous amount of Hoppes gun oil to the bolt and stabilizer pin and also to the recoil spring assembly and I lightly oil the slide area on the inside of the slide and on the frame.
Then I check the smoothness of the stabilizer pin motion and the slide.. and apply a bit more oil if needed. Once I'm happy with that, I lower the hammer, put the safety on and dip another toothbrush in rubbing alcohol and brush the chrome exterior to get the oil off.. then wipe it down with a paper towel.
At this point it looks like it did when I first opened the box.. and I put it back in the case.
It usually takes about an hour to clean it to my satisfaction.