What does "clean your gun" mean?

I'm from the soak and drip school of gun cleaning, which typically entails a generous spray down w/ break-free, and maybe a pre-coat of Kroil if there's copper or lead involved. But I only occasionally field strip, and may only fully strip a gun once a year. It was hammered into me that stripping wears parts (e.g. pins, stops, bushings etc.) and so should be avoided. From the results I've seen, it isn't necessary except for 22's perhaps, because the ammo is so grimy.
 
For me there's regular owner/user level cleaning (think field-stripping and as recommended by the manufacturer) and then there's periodic armorer level inspection and cleaning.

As someone else mentioned ... clean is clean. I'm not talking about "white glove inspection" clean. Just normal cleaning & lubrication so the gun is maintained in good condition which allows optimal functioning.

Now, for whatever reason lots of folks seem to interpret "cleaning" to mean whatever they want it to mean. That may make them feel good about themselves, and they may derive some sort of cathartic or therapeutic mental benefit from their preferred practice, but that doesn't mean the gun is being properly cleaned.

FWIW, as an armorer I've had to correct far more "gun problems" which were caused by improper cleaning practices (mostly involving the repeated excessive application of solvents, CLP's, oils, greases, etc) than actual gun problems. :rolleyes:
 
Patches, brushes, Hoppes, jags, oil, grease, etc. Cut up old undershirts for patches. Every time.

"Never let the sun set on a dirty gun."

The process only takes about a half hour, but you are doing more than cleaning and lubing. You are also inspecting for wear and breakage, for correct fit and function. This is essential for a gun you intend to use for self defense. Doesn't much matter for a range gun.

Don't forget the mags!
 
I can't believe I haven't seen a "Lewis Lead Remover" or clone mentioned. At least with lead bullets, that is the first step in my cleaning process. Followed by "Gun Scrubber", Brass patches, cotton patches and "CLP".
 
Since I shoot lead handloads almost exclusively, I start with the barrel. A few passes with a Hoppe's soaked brush, then put it aside to sit.

In the mean time, I clean the slide and frame. If it's a 1911, I detail strip once a year, because they get (by far) the most use.

Pretty much the same with revolvers, but I rarely detail strip a revolver. maybe after buying a used one, to make sure there are no surprises in there, but I don't put enough rounds through any single revolver.

Until I started handloading, my MkIIs got the most use, and I would field strip them once per year or so (never detail stripped one).

For me, clean means clean...maybe not quite "Marine Clean" but pretty darn close. And lubed with quality materials...Berryhill's Ultimat Gun Lube for slide rails, link pivot and barrel/bushing interface, Eezox for everything else.
 
It was hammered into me that stripping wears parts (e.g. pins, stops, bushings etc.) and so should be avoided.
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Who, may I ask, hammered that into you? I'm guessing it wasn't an armorer or firearms instructor.

The last thing I want it to NEED my gun and have it fail because I have a friggin extractor diamond or some failure that I could have prevented.... had I not been a lazy slob.
 
Break-Free, patches, bore brush, q-tips, pipe cleaners, and a field-strip. My first expose to firearms was in basic training. It is unimaginable to me to put away a dirty gun. :barf:
 
My guns might only get "cleaned" once or twice a year. That means stripped down, scrub the barrel, remove junk, etc as I can in a 1/2 hour job.

Other than that I'll wipe em down, spray em out, and run some patches thru em, and lube em up as they need it which may be once every 10 times out shooting or it may be after every shooting experience. It may be a 30 sec job or a 10 minute job. It doesn't fit the strict definition of "clean" but it does fit my definition of "good enough".

LK
 
Being the engineer / machine type, I treat my cleaning like another practical operation. If I'm firing over a few consecutive days, I wipe the outside to remove powder smudges. If I'm not going to fire for more than 2 days the bore / cylinder gets a wipe with a wet patch then a quick scrub with a bronze brush. The cylinder face , forcing cone area and firing pin area get wiped with a semi clean wet patch. A couple of dry patches are run through the bore / cylinder to remove the cleaning liquid. A rag is used wipe down the other areas. I do not remove the discoloration from the front of the cylinder but do remove any build up preferring to leave a thin coating as a protective layer. Add a drop of oil to the cylinder if it needs it and things are done. Overall time for a standard cleaning is 15 minutes.

At some point there will probably be a yearly take it down a bit and clean the gunk out. Kind of like a paint gun where you blow thinner through it and soak the air cap between jobs and then take it all apart one a year or so.
 
Do you use it (Eezox) for lube as well as cleaning?
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I've tried it that way, and didnt have any problems, but I still like a little grease on the rails.

I found out about Eezox over at Seecamps boards. They recommended it for both cleaning and as a lube.
 
Hoppes is my go to, normal cleaning solvent, shoot a lot of Unique in 357, it is great powder, just a little dirty. However, you run up on a really crudded up gun all along. This needs more extreme course of action.

In 2 cases recently, one a 22LR K-frame (pre-model number) and a 20ga single barrel I found both gummed up with grime and WD-40, years worth.
I removed the wood and sideplate (on S&W) and poured boiling hot water through them, spraying a 3 to 1 mix of Simple Green between pots. You would not believe the filth that came out of these guns. Do this several times. Get one of those screen tricks for the sink in case a part falls out, which may happen if something is broken or loose.

The shotgun was running about 50% FTF, and when it did fire it opened the breech by itself. The 22 had many FTF, and had just locked up completely, the rebound slide would not move. Both function perfectly now, after a good lube with Eezox. Use boiling hot water several times, the gun will dry from heat. Use something for rust protection since you will have a dry gun.
Eezox is good product, it is my go to lube. CLP is better all round, C+L+P.

WD-40 is good for a fast field expident way to get water(rain or dunking) off your gun. Left in place it turns into varnish. Over time it builds up inside the working parts of the guns, revolvers worst of all.


Pray and Shoot Daily.
Lee Jones(Celtgun

I won't be wronged,
I won't be insulted,
I won't be laid a hand on.
That's the way I live and I require it of other people. J.B. Books (John Wayne)
 
For me, "clean" means as clean as I can get it, after each trip to the range. With a revolver I focus on getting every iota of dirt out of the barrel and chambers, then I clean all other exposed surfaces until they are devoid of any visible dirt. With a semi-auto, I scrupulously clean the barrel, then remove as much dirt as possible from remaining surfaces. Cleaning is, for me, as important as shooting. I use my cleaning time as an opportunity to check my guns' working parts in order to anticipate problems that might crop up later. I can't count the number of times I've found screws that have backed out while I've cleaned my guns.
 
Depends on the gun, but my M&P .40 gets very little cleaning. Every few hundred rounds I'll field strip it, go over the pieces once or twice and then down the barrel. A little Mobil 1 and a dab of axle grease and it's good to go.

A comp 1911 on the other hand... much more involved.
 
No one has mentioned Eezox. What do you think of it?
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I tried it back when it was new. I remember calling and talking to someone who identified themselves as one of the owners. Seemed like a gentleman on the phone and was willing to discuss their new product. Don't remember his name. I remember him talking about how it was based on the lightweight synthetic lubricants used inside jet turbines and how it wouldn't contaminate powder or primers.

I used it until the can was mostly empty, but just never felt like replacing it.

I want more than the prevention of oxidation. I like to be able to check and confirm the presence of lubricant (oil or grease) by sight and touch for most common "non-hostile environmental conditions", too.

I've found that my pistols, especially my all-metal models, cycle just as well when using any number of other products.
 
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