That machine they use to test "lubricity" is a complete sham. Snake oil salesman in the auto industry use the same machine to push crap like "Duralube" and "Zmax". Several sites have debunked these carnival barkers, using the same machine and a bottle of shampoo, they got the exact same results.
What do YOU think is the "best" gun oil for lubrication?
- Thread starter Pops1085
- Start date
That machine they use to test "lubricity" is a complete sham. Snake oil salesman in the auto industry use the same machine to push crap like "Duralube" and "Zmax". Several sites have debunked these carnival barkers, using the same machine and a bottle of shampoo, they got the exact same results.
bugout2112
Inactive
Froglube fail
There's another thread on this, and I have to say I agree with his assessment. I know some people here may like it, but my experience with it is definitely not good. I have to say I'm pretty disappointed with this stuff, especially from all the hype about it being so non-toxic you can use it as mint frosting on a bundt cake. I also took some time before finalizing my opinion and my conclusion is that it's viscosity changes over time, and it's and it just plain turns to syrup when it sits for a while (in my experience). I ordered the froglube liquid about a year ago, and it works great initially, as in, clean and go shoot within a week, and it has interesting cleaning properties (after using Mpro7 cleaner with nothing on the patch, you can get more black with froglube), but the problem is when you clean/lube and then store. Yes, I know the company will say I put too much on, but that is bs. I don't over-lube my guns at all, the problem is that when it's on my p220 is sitting inside my nightstand after month or so, racking the slide feels like it was dipped in maple syrup, very sluggish and gummed up, like a dampening system was put in the gun. This should not happen. The action is jacked up, and i have to go through all my guns now and get this gunk off. Their MSDS is basically a secret, and it's my suspicion that they are using some natural oil (jojoba, or avocado) and combine it with a super strong minty substance to mask it so you can't tell (it almost smells sugary) which oxidizes over time and becomes thick and syrupy (but this is just my theory). I think in colder weather, "the syrup effect" is even worse. If you like this stuff, great, but this is my experience. If anyone has any recommendation on another non-toxic, non-carcinogenic lube (I heard about Slip 2000 EWL?) let me know. Thanks.
There's another thread on this, and I have to say I agree with his assessment. I know some people here may like it, but my experience with it is definitely not good. I have to say I'm pretty disappointed with this stuff, especially from all the hype about it being so non-toxic you can use it as mint frosting on a bundt cake. I also took some time before finalizing my opinion and my conclusion is that it's viscosity changes over time, and it's and it just plain turns to syrup when it sits for a while (in my experience). I ordered the froglube liquid about a year ago, and it works great initially, as in, clean and go shoot within a week, and it has interesting cleaning properties (after using Mpro7 cleaner with nothing on the patch, you can get more black with froglube), but the problem is when you clean/lube and then store. Yes, I know the company will say I put too much on, but that is bs. I don't over-lube my guns at all, the problem is that when it's on my p220 is sitting inside my nightstand after month or so, racking the slide feels like it was dipped in maple syrup, very sluggish and gummed up, like a dampening system was put in the gun. This should not happen. The action is jacked up, and i have to go through all my guns now and get this gunk off. Their MSDS is basically a secret, and it's my suspicion that they are using some natural oil (jojoba, or avocado) and combine it with a super strong minty substance to mask it so you can't tell (it almost smells sugary) which oxidizes over time and becomes thick and syrupy (but this is just my theory). I think in colder weather, "the syrup effect" is even worse. If you like this stuff, great, but this is my experience. If anyone has any recommendation on another non-toxic, non-carcinogenic lube (I heard about Slip 2000 EWL?) let me know. Thanks.
bugout2112
Inactive
Grizz, from the FL website..
http://froglube.com/froglube-product-info/froglube-directions/#sthash.fohNfDMZ.dpuf
Froglube CLP
1) Pre-clean using above procedure with FrogLube Solvent™.
2) For best results, apply heat to area to be treated. Heat from a heat lamp, heat blower or ambient sunlight is more than sufficient.
3) Apply FrogLube and allow time to absorb. (heat quickens the rate of absorption)
4) Scrub, agitate, and wipe off excess. Normal cleaning tools such as nylon brushes, patches, wipes and towels are sufficient.
5) Lubricate per manufacturers instruction. FrogLube will work dry or wet.
Note: In hot/dusty or extreme cold, follow manufacturers directions for use in extreme environmental conditions.
6) If storing, apply a light coat for long term protection.
I followed these instructions...so step 5 must be very misleading, especially the whole "working wet deal" huh? And step 6 should say "if storing, apply a light coat, and don't plan on normal function as it will turn to syrup in a few weeks. You must field strip and clean again"
http://froglube.com/froglube-product-info/froglube-directions/#sthash.fohNfDMZ.dpuf
Froglube CLP
1) Pre-clean using above procedure with FrogLube Solvent™.
2) For best results, apply heat to area to be treated. Heat from a heat lamp, heat blower or ambient sunlight is more than sufficient.
3) Apply FrogLube and allow time to absorb. (heat quickens the rate of absorption)
4) Scrub, agitate, and wipe off excess. Normal cleaning tools such as nylon brushes, patches, wipes and towels are sufficient.
5) Lubricate per manufacturers instruction. FrogLube will work dry or wet.
Note: In hot/dusty or extreme cold, follow manufacturers directions for use in extreme environmental conditions.
6) If storing, apply a light coat for long term protection.
I followed these instructions...so step 5 must be very misleading, especially the whole "working wet deal" huh? And step 6 should say "if storing, apply a light coat, and don't plan on normal function as it will turn to syrup in a few weeks. You must field strip and clean again"
the only time I had issues with FL is when I applied it with my fingers and didn't wipe it down with a rag. Now all my guns are "seasoned" with FL and I wipe down to clean after each trip to the range and then apply a drop or two here and there and wipe across all moving parts with a rag.
You can't see any lube anyplace and it will feel dry after a few minutes. I live a few miles from the ocean so salt air is a problem or I should say it WAS a problem for me, not any longer.
You can't see any lube anyplace and it will feel dry after a few minutes. I live a few miles from the ocean so salt air is a problem or I should say it WAS a problem for me, not any longer.
bugout2112
Inactive
k, thanks for your input. I might try storing my firearms a lot more "dry" with FL and see how they do..
Also agree with the 'free samples' and give 'em a try...
Received samples of Militec-1 and used that - both oil and grease. Worked fine.
At last year's SHOT Show, I received a sample of Slip2000 EWL and have used that on both pistol and rifle - works fine.
Over the years have used RemOil, G96 and several others.
All worked fine.
So, unless you are in extreme conditions, I would say that just about anything will work well.
(Note: I too have noticed that 1911's work best with a bit of grease on the rails. Oil didn't seem to quite do the trick and once switched to grease - all is good.)
Received samples of Militec-1 and used that - both oil and grease. Worked fine.
At last year's SHOT Show, I received a sample of Slip2000 EWL and have used that on both pistol and rifle - works fine.
Over the years have used RemOil, G96 and several others.
All worked fine.
So, unless you are in extreme conditions, I would say that just about anything will work well.
(Note: I too have noticed that 1911's work best with a bit of grease on the rails. Oil didn't seem to quite do the trick and once switched to grease - all is good.)
Average Joe
New member
I only use Breakfree CLP on all of my firearms.
Ignition Override
New member
How about Hilco Lube? It was recommended by the wife of a military sniper and is used for many types of machinery.
This is Not lube in terms of grease.
It feels sort of like Breakfree, and Hilco did a nice job as a solvent in tiny areas which still had some cosmoline in my pair of excellent, almost unused Yugo M59 SKS rifles.
This stuff soaking in well prevented any more stovepipe jams, which had been very frequent-even After the tube, piston, action components and follower etc had been cleaned with both scalding water and some Hoppe's 9.
Having the word "gun" (or not) on a label doesn't ensure that something is the best product.
This is Not lube in terms of grease.
It feels sort of like Breakfree, and Hilco did a nice job as a solvent in tiny areas which still had some cosmoline in my pair of excellent, almost unused Yugo M59 SKS rifles.
This stuff soaking in well prevented any more stovepipe jams, which had been very frequent-even After the tube, piston, action components and follower etc had been cleaned with both scalding water and some Hoppe's 9.
Having the word "gun" (or not) on a label doesn't ensure that something is the best product.
Oils
The answer is not what oil as much as when. I clean and re-oil or lube after each use. My first rifle - Crossman pellet gun was lubed using 3-in-One and Rig. I have not felt the need to change in the last 60 years.
Most of the new latest and greatest oils & lubes are made from snake oil. For the most part they all work if you use them and don't work if you don't.
The Strawstalker, behind the lines in Liberal Colorado.
The answer is not what oil as much as when. I clean and re-oil or lube after each use. My first rifle - Crossman pellet gun was lubed using 3-in-One and Rig. I have not felt the need to change in the last 60 years.
Most of the new latest and greatest oils & lubes are made from snake oil. For the most part they all work if you use them and don't work if you don't.
The Strawstalker, behind the lines in Liberal Colorado.
Funniest has to be:
http://shop.tactical****.com/liberal-tears-gun-oil
And yes, this is a real product from a real company.
http://shop.tactical****.com/liberal-tears-gun-oil
And yes, this is a real product from a real company.