What at I doing wrong?
- Thread starter ninosdemente
- Start date
I remember the old story about the firing pin, it went something like "the firing pin drives the case, bullet and powder forward until the shoulder of the case contacts the shoulder of the chamber etc. etc." And I asked; "How can that be, my firing pins crush the primer before the case, bullet, and powder know their little buddy, the primer, has been hit. And then I said the worst thing that can happen is for the shoulder of the case to be setting at the shoulder of the chamber when the case is hit with all of that pressure.
Clearance: Again, I have fired cases with .127" clearance between the shoulder of the case and shoulder of the chamber, no miracle, my shoulder did not move, had my shoulder on my cases moved the case would have had case head separation; there was a down side, the .127" clearance shortened my case necks and because my shoulders did not move the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head lengthened.
F. Guffey
Whenever I answer a basic question on a forum, I aim it towards a new reloader (if the OP isn't a new reloader, why would he ask basic questions). Many of the "Reloading Gurus" on forums quickly get into advanced reloading techniques and theory and can cause "information overload", confusing a new reloader. Having taught complex diagnostics and most of the time to mechanics with very little electronics/electrical knowledge I have found K.I.S.S. teaching is by far best for the student. Same with reloading...
Maybe if I posted pics of my diplomas and certificates and expounded on my expertise, I'd be accepted? Nah, who cares?
Nuff said...
Maybe if I posted pics of my diplomas and certificates and expounded on my expertise, I'd be accepted? Nah, who cares?
Nuff said...
Another scattered,disconnectd,confuzing whizzing contest to answer the OP's simple beginner question.
OP,there are degrees of precision. It has to be "good enough" to get good,safe results. There is more than one way to get there,and more than one level of acceptable results.
Worst is working blind,with no standard. !/4 turn of your die is approx. .018. We'd like to work closer than that.
Over time,you may want to pursue whatever the "ultimate" is for setback,or more correctly,"head clearance". The often quoted number for a bolt gun is .002. That's nice,and you can do it.
You already have two fine,useful standards. One is your rifle. Its a bit clumsy to use,but it is the last word.
The other is your case length bushing gauge. You said you have one. Read the directions. Do you see the Hi/Low step? If you size your brass so a straight edge shows you between those steps,your brass is SAAMI spec,and good enough to be a factory load. You CAN leave it at that. In any case,you need to learn the paper clip probe trick,and monitor your brass for stretch rings.You now have a good,workable standard.If you have more than one rifle,the ammo ought to work.This would be the K>I>S>S> method with the tools you have(assuming calipers)
If you want to refine this a bit,no problem. There are several ways.Here is one good one that does not demand $. Use your bushing gauge,start a little long,and advance the die 1/32 of a turn (just about .0025 ) at a time.Find the spot where your brass just closes in the chamber with no crush.
Now,drop that case in your bushing gauge and measure over the bushing die and cartridge case assembled. Subtract .002,and write that number inside your die box with a sharpie.
From now on,set that die to that rifle by hitting that measurement over the gauge and case. Note,if your brass needs trimming,it will stick out and mess this up.
Now,your original question. I had a similar "Aww,Do-Do-" moment.I bought a brand new Elliot 30-06 AI reamer AND sprung for the floating reamer holder.
Built the rifle and fired it. Rings,more pronounced than yours. AhhhrggH!!
With gauge pins,I measured the chamber. I mic'd the reamer. Same size. Floating holder worked good. I checked chamber drawings. Right on.
I measured cartridge cases against the drawing for the 30-06 brass. All of it was .005 undersize.
In other words,no worries. Yours look good.
Do get you brass clean before you size
OP,there are degrees of precision. It has to be "good enough" to get good,safe results. There is more than one way to get there,and more than one level of acceptable results.
Worst is working blind,with no standard. !/4 turn of your die is approx. .018. We'd like to work closer than that.
Over time,you may want to pursue whatever the "ultimate" is for setback,or more correctly,"head clearance". The often quoted number for a bolt gun is .002. That's nice,and you can do it.
You already have two fine,useful standards. One is your rifle. Its a bit clumsy to use,but it is the last word.
The other is your case length bushing gauge. You said you have one. Read the directions. Do you see the Hi/Low step? If you size your brass so a straight edge shows you between those steps,your brass is SAAMI spec,and good enough to be a factory load. You CAN leave it at that. In any case,you need to learn the paper clip probe trick,and monitor your brass for stretch rings.You now have a good,workable standard.If you have more than one rifle,the ammo ought to work.This would be the K>I>S>S> method with the tools you have(assuming calipers)
If you want to refine this a bit,no problem. There are several ways.Here is one good one that does not demand $. Use your bushing gauge,start a little long,and advance the die 1/32 of a turn (just about .0025 ) at a time.Find the spot where your brass just closes in the chamber with no crush.
Now,drop that case in your bushing gauge and measure over the bushing die and cartridge case assembled. Subtract .002,and write that number inside your die box with a sharpie.
From now on,set that die to that rifle by hitting that measurement over the gauge and case. Note,if your brass needs trimming,it will stick out and mess this up.
Now,your original question. I had a similar "Aww,Do-Do-" moment.I bought a brand new Elliot 30-06 AI reamer AND sprung for the floating reamer holder.
Built the rifle and fired it. Rings,more pronounced than yours. AhhhrggH!!
With gauge pins,I measured the chamber. I mic'd the reamer. Same size. Floating holder worked good. I checked chamber drawings. Right on.
I measured cartridge cases against the drawing for the 30-06 brass. All of it was .005 undersize.
In other words,no worries. Yours look good.
Do get you brass clean before you size
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