What are the hidden gems for home defense purposes?

I was kinda thinking that my new Chiappa 1892 Mare's Leg, in 45 Colt, with a good defensive round, might make for a decent, and unconventional, home defense gun. I just need to start practicing shooting from the hip, though! LOL!!

The Mare's Leg is one of those things that would be fun but, IMhO, isn't very practical. My recent experience with a 12 gauge Mossberg Shockwave pistol grip shotgun is still fresh in my mind and it's not a pleasant memory.

The Shockwave's owner had a green laser on it which I thought worked well on the thing but the Shockwave had the Picatinny rail which made the mounting of the green laser really easy.

The Shockwave was shot from the hip using the green laser. Had I tried to use the Shockwave's traditional bead front sight I suspect I'd still be picking up pieces of my teeth from the range floor.
 
How's about securing your residence? All this gumption is great, but wouldn't it really be better if the bad people just couldnt get in?

Proper steel entrance doors
proper deadbolt, (schlage everest/primus pinned with security pins by a locksmith for example
window clamps
peoper exterior lighting/motions lights

Sure guns and a good plan are important, but having your locks redone properly will probably cost you less than a PSA AR, and what you have in your house is far more valuable than what in your gun safe. Lock it down.
 
How's about securing your residence? All this gumption is great, but wouldn't it really be better if the bad people just couldnt get in?

Proper steel entrance doors
Almost everybody has a glass patio door.

What do you do about that?

They don't have to break your steel entry door.
 
Originally posted by bamaranger
I'm a bit leery of rimfire for SD too. The .22 mag does not suffer from a heel crimp like the .22 lr, which is prone to contaminate in bad conditions or over time, but it is still a rimfire. I'm not aware of any proof, but my gut (substantial gut) is that a centerfire stores and ignites more reliably.

The .22 lr of today, or anytime prior, is not a defensive cartridge per se. I don't want shot with one but it beats a sharp stick. Concerns are the cartridges modest power and a troubling tendency for rimfire ignition to fail. The .22 mag is more, especially from a rifle, but not that much more. Since the .22 mag projectile is crimped into the case in a different manner than the .22 lr, it may be a bit more reliable in ignition than the heel crimped .22 lr but I am suspect none the less.

I won't argue that a centerfire is not inherently more reliable than a rimfire because it most certainly is. However, much of the unreliability of rimfire ammo can be mitigated by ammo selection and rotation of stock. Most of the reliability problems that I've had with .22 LR has been with the lower-cost varieties with the bulk-packs being the most frequent culprit. While I don't have anything definitive to support this, my personal theory is that bulk-pack .22 ammo is inherently less reliable because of the way it is packaged. Most bulk-pack .22 is simply a box with the cartridges placed inside rather loosely while the more premium ammo usually comes with the little plastic trays that hold the individual cartridges or, at the very least, the cartridges are packed more tightly in the box and have less room to "wiggle around" during transport. My theory is that the "wiggle room" in bulk-pack .22 packaging allows some of the primer compound in some of the rounds to be dislodged inside the case during transport and thus contributes to a higher rate of misfires. Regardless, with premium .22 LR ammunition like CCI Velocitors, Federal Punch, or even CCI Mini-Mags I've had far fewer misfires.

While it is also undeniable that the heel-based bullets of .22 LR makes the cartridges more susceptible to contamination from chemicals and moisture, this can be offset to some degree by the fact that .22 LR ammo, due to its low cost and wide availability, is far less burdensome to replace than nearly any other caliber. A 50-round box of premium .22 LR ammunition, even at today's inflated prices, can be had for around $10 which is less than nearly any centerfire ammunition. Even in .22 Magnum, which is much more expensive than .22 LR, it isn't difficult to find a 50-round box of premium ammunition like Speer Gold Dot or Hornady Critical defense for around $20 which is the same price or less than most centerfire handgun cartridges will cost for a box of FMJ.

As I said before, a .22 rifle probably isn't the best choice for most, or even many people, but it might be the best choice for some. For someone with an extremely limited budget it could be a good choice because not only can the guns be had for very reasonable prices (sometimes free as .22 rifles are often inherited rather than purchased), but ammunition factors into overall cost and .22 LR is far and away the most affordable ammunition available. Also, some people simply cannot tolerate any significant amount of recoil or muzzle blast and, despite its lack of power, I think that a .22 that can be shot effectively is still a better option than a centerfire which cannot. Maybe "hidden gem" isn't quite an accurate description, but I think "highly under-estimated" is still fairly accurate.

Originally posted by DaleA
The Mare's Leg is one of those things that would be fun but, IMhO, isn't very practical. My recent experience with a 12 gauge Mossberg Shockwave pistol grip shotgun is still fresh in my mind and it's not a pleasant memory.

I'm inclined to agree that a Mare's leg, much like the Shockwave, is of limited utility as it comes. However, if one is willing to do NFA paperwork and pay the tax stamp to put a real stock on one, I think both the Mare's leg and Shockwave could be easily turned into very handy and effective little packages.
 
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Almost everybody has a glass patio door.

What do you do about that?

They don't have to break your steel entry door.
Add security film, like window tint, but keeps the glass from blowing out if struck. Get one made rated for hurricanes, you can hardly beat through it with baseball bat. There are options.
 
Originally posted by Shadow9mm
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Verminator View Post
Almost everybody has a glass patio door.

What do you do about that?

They don't have to break your steel entry door.
Add security film, like window tint, but keeps the glass from blowing out if struck. Get one made rated for hurricanes, you can hardly beat through it with baseball bat. There are options.

While I certainly don't think that having a home defense firearm, regardless of how secure your home is, is a bad idea, I will add that the modern plexiglass used in most patio doors isn't as easy to break as one might think. I've seen several rather humorous videos of would-be criminals throwing heavy objects as such glass only to have it literally bounce off and hit them in the face. Also, the pane of glass isn't the weakest point of the sliding type patio doors, rather its the flimsy little sheet metal latch that most adults of moderate strength could rip free fairly easily. Fortunately this is a fairly easy fix as all you need to do is get the thickest piece of dowel rod you can find, cut it to the appropriate length, and place in in the bottom track between the door and frame.
 
Also, the pane of glass isn't the weakest point of the sliding type patio doors, rather its the flimsy little sheet metal latch that most adults of moderate strength could rip free fairly easily. Fortunately this is a fairly easy fix as all you need to do is get the thickest piece of dowel rod you can find, cut it to the appropriate length, and place in in the bottom track between the door and frame.
That's exactly what I've done with mine.

However, if I were a crook I'm thinking I could just use a glass cutter and make a hole to stick a little rod in and pry out the dowel.
 
Originally posted by The Verminator
That's exactly what I've done with mine.

However, if I were a crook I'm thinking I could just use a glass cutter and make a hole to stick a little rod in and pry out the dowel.

If you make the rod long enough that it fits tightly between the door and frame, prying it out would be more difficult. Also, I specifically stated that the dowel should be placed in the bottom track because the track surrounding the dowel will make it more difficult to get a little rod or other such tool in position to pry the dowel out.

The fact of the matter is that if someone wants into your house badly enough and has enough time and effort to devote to it, they're probably going to get in. The point of home security isn't to make your home completely impregnable, but rather to make it difficult and time consuming enough that you have sufficient time and warning to respond or, preferably, the intruder gives up and seeks easier targets elsewhere.
 
If you make the rod long enough that it fits tightly between the door and frame, prying it out would be more difficult. Also, I specifically stated that the dowel should be placed in the bottom track because the track surrounding the dowel will make it more difficult to get a little rod or other such tool in position to pry the dowel out.

The fact of the matter is that if someone wants into your house badly enough and has enough time and effort to devote to it, they're probably going to get in. The point of home security isn't to make your home completely impregnable, but rather to make it difficult and time consuming enough that you have sufficient time and warning to respond or, preferably, the intruder gives up and seeks easier targets elsewhere.
Nailed it.
 
If you make the rod long enough that it fits tightly between the door and frame, prying it out would be more difficult. Also, I specifically stated that the dowel should be placed in the bottom track because the track surrounding the dowel will make it more difficult to get a little rod or other such tool in position to pry the dowel out.

The fact of the matter is that if someone wants into your house badly enough and has enough time and effort to devote to it, they're probably going to get in. The point of home security isn't to make your home completely impregnable, but rather to make it difficult and time consuming enough that you have sufficient time and warning to respond or, preferably, the intruder gives up and seeks easier targets elsewhere.
Well, I could easily make an L-shaped rod to hook the dowel.

But........one can always duct tape it in to make it really difficult to lift it out.

Which I do.

:)
 
Actually, a tube-fed Marlin 22LR could work for home defense. Its powerful enough to punch a good size hole through an old steel oil barrel.

Personally I prefer a 10mm handgun - Witness Stock 10mm with Lehigh Defense solid copper extreme penetrator rounds. Some thugs have gotten a little smarter and have gone to wearing body armor during burglaries.
 
A set of Comtacs 3’s and you can use anything without worrying about blowing your ears out. If it come down to your life or that of your family, noise doesn’t even enter into the equation.
 
This thing takes Glock magazines, is extremely affordable (~$500),

New Glocks are $450-$500 for the single stack G43 and G48. I just paid $500 OTD for a G48 MOS. New double stacks such as the G19 are $500-$550 and used Glocks are $350-$400. Why pay more for the knockoff when you can get the real thing for less money.

Seriously, right now the best value in a HD handgun is a used Glock.
 
A .410 in either the Shockwave or KSG. Compact, light, low recoil, effective.

Wadcutters in a big bore revolver. Big hole, low noise, doesn't go thru walls well.
 
Seems like a lot of the "gems" that were cheap under Bush II got very expensive under Obama and stayed that way. Otherwise, I would recommend a cheap AK and a $200 1000-round box of Tulammo.

I would never defend my family with a pistol unless I couldn't use a long gun. As for hearing protection, I keep electronic muffs next to my rifle. I won't use a shotgun. I want 30 rounds in my mag.
 
A .410 in either the Shockwave or KSG. Compact, light, low recoil, effective.

Wadcutters in a big bore revolver. Big hole, low noise, doesn't go thru walls well.
So you're ok with not being able to shoot through walls while the hoodlums are shooting through walls to kill you?

Nope........I may need to shoot through walls.
 
I totally agree with that. Let's all go on the web, watch police shootings, and see how worried they are about hitting the innocent at a distance.

Sometimes you have to weigh risks.

I think any round that won't go through a wall is likely to fail to penetrate a criminal very well.

I use an Eastern bloc rifle for home protection.
 
Originally posted by Truth Tellers
Wadcutters in a big bore revolver. Big hole, low noise, doesn't go thru walls well.

While I wouldn't count too heavily on them not going through walls (at least if were talking about modern sheetrock walls), I'd say that wadcutters are highly underrated in general, particularly in calibers which have trouble reaching sufficient velocity for hollowpoints to reliably expand like standard-pressure .38 Special or .32 S&W Long.

Originally posted by The Verminator
So you're ok with not being able to shoot through walls while the hoodlums are shooting through walls to kill you?

Nope........I may need to shoot through walls.

About the only ammunition that won't reliably penetrate modern walls is either frangible bullets like Glasers or light loads of birdshot in a shotgun and even these will often penetrate at least one interior wall of modern design (studs and sheetrock, plaster and lath is a little more resistant but not much). That being said, outside of a very limited number of very specific circumstances, shooting through a wall at a target you cannot see, and thus cannot positively identify, is generally considered to be a very bad, and likely legally questionable, idea.
 
Since the .22 mag projectile is crimped into the case in a different manner than the .22 lr, it may be a bit more reliable in ignition than the heel crimped .22 lr but I am suspect none the less.

The kind of crimp on the bullet has nothing to do with the reliability of rimfire ignition.

Centerfires are more reliable because of the consistency of the priming system. The primer compound is in one spot, and is reliably crushed against the primer anvil (boxer priming) or the case "anvil" (Berdan priming)

Rimfire rounds are made differently. It was long ago I saw it done, but I'm pretty sure they still do it about the same way.

The case is formed, with its hollow rim, then a drop of the priming compound, as a liquid is placed inside, and the case is spun so that the liquid flows into the hollow rim by centrifugal force. Usually, this results in an even distribution of the primer compound all around the inside of the rim.

However, its not 100 percent perfect, and sometimes, gaps will happen, and if that does, AND random chance puts that "blank spot" under the firing pin when you shoot, then the round doesn't go off.

Rechambering the round so the firing pin hits a different spot on the rim nearly always results in the "bad" round firing. Additionally, since the system relies on crushing the rim against the steel of your barrel/chamber, if things are "right" in that fit, ignition problems can result. This is why rimfires are, overall, slightly less reliable than centerfires, and that difference, though small, makes them a poor choice for self defense use when it comes to firing reliably. It has nothing to do with how the bullet is held in the case.

The heel type bullet, crimped into the case is more "fragile", meaning it is more easily bent, or made loose by rough handling, which may give feeding and chambering issues, but that has nothing to do with primer ignition.

My personal "home defense" system won't work for most people, or anyone who cares about what their property looks like. Between a back injury that meant I couldn't mow my law, and a family dispute between my wife and her brother, he cut off irrigation water to my place (which I still have to pay for, though I don't get any :mad:) my "lawn" is high desert organic, so I literally live "in the weeds" and there are several non running cars and a truck parked to serve as a barrier fence near the road. The house is in shabby shape, roof needs repair, there is no patio and no glass doors. Additionally, there is a large black dog, totally unused to anyone but us on the property, who is a mix of Australian Kelpie and I think Tasmanian devil. There is literally nothing worth stealing visible anywhere, (and damn little worth stealing inside the house).

Additionally, anyone getting past the dog would face any one (or more) of the firearms I own, or the various "decorator" swords that are within reach in most rooms of my small house. :D

Shotguns are good choices, though less maneuverable than a handgun. I don't consider rifles as home defense choices for inside the house. Suppressors are out (for me) simply not going to put up with the cost and legal hassle that are the current legal requirements.

Additionally, if you use a suppressed weapon for defense (which is your right, and nothing legally wrong with that) its going to be made to look really bad in court, should it come to that.

As for an "overlooked gem" for a home defense weapon, consider a medium frame .38 revolver. I prefer the S&Ws but I also have a Colt snubbie which is quite comforting to have in a pocket when things go bump in the night.
12ga coach gun inside the bedroom door, .45 auto within reach when I'm in bed. So far, so good! :D:rolleyes:
 
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