Thoughts on muzzle brakes

N

Niantician

New member
So I've got a TC Encore ProHunter in 35 Whelen. These rifles are relatively light for caliber and the recoil is pretty stout. So stout in fact, that even in a lead sled with the barrel strapped and 10lbs in the weight tray, the recoil wins everytime. Part of ne wants to just buy a new barrel in a lighter cal. Maybe 25-06. But I'm stubborn and I want to like and shoot the 35 well. So in comes Mike Bellm. He is an expert on all things break action and claims he can make a 338 feel like a .260 by drilling out a muzzle brake. Here's the link. Anyone have a similar one installed? And is the reduction in recoil that dramatic?

http://www.bellmtcs.com/store/index.php?cid=151
 
There are two questions in your post.
One,do brakes work?I have used some that do.In fact,the gun "package" depends on the brake.Examples.AR-30 in 338 Lapua,the 50 BMG Armalite,and .460 Rowland 1911.

With all three,recoil is quite mild.Concussion takessome getting used to.

You can significantly reduce the recoil of your 35 Whelen with a brake.

Noise will increase.Some brakes are easier on the shooter than others,but brakes without ear protection are a bad experience.

As far as the design in the link.....I have no experience with that brake.

If your bbl dia is smaller,you get less surface exposed to thrust,so effectiveness drops.You need to be able to remove carbon,and gas erosion can be an issue.Myself,I'd screw on a pickle,but that's preference/opinion.
 
I have one on my 6.5-06, makes a real crisp pop and there is no recoil tobtalk about....when we shoot at range, people walk by and ask what the rifle is because of it's distinct "pop"...
 
I have the SSK Arestor Brake on a 15" Contender in 375 JDJ. It is similar to that break, except a muzzle cap on the end to increase its effectiveness by forcing more gas out the break.

It makes the 375 JDJ shootable. It controls muzzle rise very well and also seems to reduce recoil quit a bit. I've never shot an unbraked 375 JDJ.

The negative is you probably need hearing protection when hunting. I have not used hearing protection hunting, but have only fired about 10 shots hunting. I double up when practicing at the outdoor range.
 
Shooting is suppose to be fun. Muzzle Brakes put the fun back into shooting heavy kickers.

I put one on my 300 WM and 375 H&H...........you wont believe the difference they make.

Next is one for my 416 Rigby and my TC pistol barrels.

Suppressors work too but they are expensive. I can buy three brakes for what it takes to get the ATF fee alone.
 
Sounds like its worth a shot. As far as the increase in noise, well my fellow range members will just have to get used to it.
 
I hate muzzle brakes. People get them for guns to reduce recoil. Maybe if they would chose a gun with less recoil they would not need the extra bells and wissles. I find the increase of noise extreme. So you want a muzzle break on your magnum. Try a 308 or a 7mm-08. Do you think you really need that Mag.?
Going for Elk and you want a heavier bullet try a 358 Win. or a 444... You don't need a muzzle brake.

If you just have to have a big mag. to feel good then go for it and get a 375 Mag. with a nice brake and you should be in heaven. Although it would be polite to let the person at the next bench know what you have before you pull the trigger.
 
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I bought the 35 because I wanted a powerful non magnum caliber capable of taking any game in N. America. I had shot a Ruger in 35 Whelen and the extra heft of the gun made the recoil managable. But my encore is too light and the muzzle rise is pretty bad. Short of selling this gun for a loss, putting a brake on it is my only option. gun ranges are loud.. Guns are loud. Its all relative.
 
I have a brake on a 300 Win mag and it works OK. Not great but noticeable recoil reduction. Down side is obnoxious side blast for anyone unfortunate enough get caught there. The last time I used that rifle, the guide described it as similar to being hit by jet exhaust(an exaggeration I'm sure).
 
My LR-308 with a muzzle brake works great....especially when I end up with annoying people next to me at the range.
 
Since muzzle brakes are here to stay,it might be good to wear good ear protection at the range.

In my experience,the noise from an 338 Lapua,50 BMG,handguns,and AR's with brakes is not a problem with even foam earplugs.Concussion is felt in the body,but the ears are fine

Its brutal if you neglect ear protection.You will do damage.

So,if you are using a brake around a guide or friend,have some foam ear plugs to share.

Be aware of other folks ears,warn them.

"Got ear protection?,this is going to be loud'

If you are going to be around the noise,its your responsibility to protect your own ears.
If you use a brake,its reasonable courtesy to warn people.

And just do not let it happen that spotter,buddy,guide,kids,etc are beside you without ear protection when you touch off.Be aware.Communicate.
 
Cant believe the neigh-Sayers. I'll bet they don't have a lot of experience with brakes.

First, not everyone shoots at a crowded range with dozens of people to the right and left of you.

Muzzle brakes are not just for hard kicking magnums, you'll find them on 223s, 260s, 243s 308s, even 22s. They improve your shooting, they allow for fast follow up shots.

In hunting they hold down muzzle jump so you can see if you hit the animal or missed.

A few years ago I worked as a range officer for the Sniper Hide Cup PRM. My first shooter was shooting a brake on a 243, I wasn't prepared and the blast put a bunch of dust and dirt in my coffee cup. No big deal, I move it so it was protected. I did notice that those with brakes or suppressers faired better then those without.

There were close to 100 shooters at this match and all of them came through my station. A huge majority had brakes or suppressors. I was right next to them and the blast wasn't that disruptive. That's why they invented hearing protectors.

Not everyone can get buy with small calibers. A 308 isn't going to fair as well as a 300 WM or 338 Luppy at 1500 plus yards.

Yes if you shoot at a controlled square range punching holes in paper at 100 yards with light rifles, you probably don't need one. But not all of us do that.

You don't want a brake find, but if you want to improve your shooting, regardless of the size of the rifle then try one.
 
I have several muzzle brakes... some factory, like on the hunter barrel on my 45-70 & 35 Remington Contender barrels, & on my Browning boss equipped 338 Win Mag & 375 H&H, & many custom ones... my local retired machinist buddy has made me several...

a couple things to look for... Bellm... looks to have everything down, except for one glaring point... I like that the ports are only on the top side, if they extend downward, they blow dust from the ground or bench top every where ( as KRAIG implied ) muzzle brakes that incorporate an expansion chamber are much more efficient than just putting ports in the barrel... the only thing I don't like is the angle of Bellm's ports... they are directing the exhaust / noise towards the shooter... I find very little difference in the angle of the ports in relation to the effectiveness of recoil reduction, & everything to do with noticed increased noise... my buddy builds them with the ports angled towards the muzzle... this actually directs the sound away from the shooter & doesn't increase the noise level any more than cutting off half that effected ( by porting ) length off the barrel... ( on most, equal to removing 3/4" to 1" of barrel )

I had one of his 1st on an flat top AR back 20 years ago, & could watch the bullet strike a P doggie through my 20 X scope... this with ports angled to the front, which did not add any to the noise level...

BTW... I have a Remington 700 in 35 Whelen & it is indeed a major kicking machine off the bench... I'm keeping my clean looks, but find a premium recoil pad to make it tolerable to shoot off the bench
 
Not a fan

They make perfect sense for many applications. I don't have any, although, I don't have any guns that are noted for heavy recoil.
 
Not a fan of them on bolt rifles, especially in calibers that kick less than the .30-06. I just don't see much point, and I'm not a fan of adding a brake simply as a 'band-aid' for getting a sore shoulder after a few rounds (which doesn't happen to me, personally)

Much more useful on semi-auto's where they'll actually increase speed of your follow up shots. And 'elephant guns' which just have a silly amount of recoil, because of the high mass projectiles they fire.

I can spot my own shots from my .270win through it's own scope, when firing, so I see no real need for a brake, I'd be getting nothing but more noise and gasses directed towards me.
 
The problem is not on the range, even though neighboring shooters may not appreciate the blast directed at them, but in hunting, where ear plugs and muffs are not practical and where the backward blast will do just as much damage to the hearing. I will have to join those who advise trading the "bigboreboomer" for a rifle with less recoil.

Jim
 
I haven't used that break but let me share an experience I had recently. At my local range a gentleman showed up with a Savage 110 BA chambered in 338 Lapua, it comes with a muzzle break. He invited me to shoot it a couple of times and it was down right mild on the shoulder. Part of the recoil was absorbed by the weight of the rifle (15+lb) the rest I assume was the muzzle break. His 338 Lapua had less recoil than my Savage 110 chambered in 30-06 (7 lb), so I would say, yep they work alright. I am considering installing a break on my 338-06.
 
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