This is ridiculous.....

harmonics

This isnthw bipod i was using and have only used it in this rifle. ..as youngiys can see its spring loaded at the top for lateral movement. Insuspect this design had something to do with it as rifle harmonics would rebounce off it...specially if shopting from a hard top as i was.
 

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It's true, I have no love for bipods and don't own any. My shooting buddy has lots of rifles, the great majority of which have bipods. I only approve of them for those that simply can't shoot without them. But back to the subject at hand: I could be making some erroneous presumptions. Jpw360, what is the purpose you envision for this rifle? I mean, I'm thinking, a 7mm magnum for, "stalking", big game; but perhaps my presumptions are all wrong? Do you actually stalk; or lie in wait at a convenient ambush location?
Now perhaps your scope is defective. If not, then maybe your rifle has some issues with the bedding of the stock. Is the barrel free-floating?
 
Shooting off a bipod can produce great.accuracy if done properly. A rifle can't just rest on a bipod, it needs a load on it. Properly loading a bipod can cause most factory synthetic to flex and throw your groups off. This is why most factory stocks do better resting on sand bags when shooting for groups.

The other thing is if your not using the same lot of factory ammunition that produced good groups before, you can't be sure the current lot will produce the same accuracy. There is always going to be some variations lot to lot. Factory ammunition is usually pretty good, but it isn't guaranteed to produce any kind of accuracy.

Shooting at 300 yards is also going to magnify any bad shooting, be it trigger and breath control, recoil anticipation, and not following through. All these aren't quite as noticeable at 100 yards on the target. Try taking a rimfire or your .223 to plink around with between groups you're shooting with your 7mm RM, it'll help with you're shooting all.around.
 
Pathfinder the purpoce of this rig is to 1) use it for long range hunting mule deer and moose and also for 2) use it as a long range target shooting as the 7mm is a great good round to reach far out there...i will however get back out there and try shooting of rear and front sand bags and post the results
 
Well, you could use the bipod for targets from the prone position and take it off for hunting. But I can't help but wonder if the rifle would have a change of impact by removing the bipod and need to be re-zeroed. Also, I was taught the prone position with the use of the sling. There were no bipods on the firing-line then. Makes me wonder if they are even allowed in formal competition? I never shoot prone anymore, since I don't shoot in formal competition and don't find it a practical position for hunting as it doesn't give much altitude over brush. I find that, for me, the off-hand-standing position, and the kneeling position are the two most important positions to learn well for hunting as they can be assumed the most quickly when seconds matter. The sitting position is very worthwhile if you have the time for a little longer shot. Back East I've seen some fairly elaborate tree stands, but I've never done that. Some of them you could have a bench for your tripod and a cooler full of beer as you wait in ambush..... a 20 pound rifle wouldn't even matter if you don't have to carry it. I hike around with a rifle. A sling is near mandatory; bipod not so much. Good luck with your rifle.
 
Competitions like FT/R and all tactical long range steel shoots allow use of a bipod. Also it depends on the area where you hunt if it's practical to shoot from the prone position or not. I'd say I shoot probably a good 70% of my hunting shots from the prone position.
 
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Pathfinder45 said:
I'm in the Pacific NW. Probably a lot different from the Santa Fe Trail
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That's probably an understatement for sure, coastal rainforest is VASTLY different compared to open prairie where I live. It's also vastly different from the mountains I hunt as far as density of vegetation goes. I'm more like the eastern part of Washington state.
 
My Hood National Forest, West slope of Cascades, occasionally Rogue River N.F. too. A little less jungle than the coastal forests, but still thicker than what you are used to. I can shoot prone and have found it to be the most stable of field positions. It's just that there is generally brush or logs or grass in the way when you're that low to the ground. Consequently, I have virtually abandoned that position and no longer train for it.
 
second try

So to revive this post i went out again and only 10 bullets with me to try 4 groups at 100 yds NO BIPOD ONLY 2 SOCKS FULL OF SAND. First group was the worse...top left. Then second was top right. Third was bottom right and forth was bottom left. This is exact same target inused at 300 with that group still there...ignore the center shots. The thing i noticed shooting off sand bags compared to bipod is that it take more efforth to keep the rifle laterally stable
 
And that's why they invented bayonets; for people that didn't bring enough ammo!;) Sorry, but I couldn't resist......

I don't see the targets, but it sounds like you may be having some stability issues. You could also try swapping out scopes with one that's proven to shoot well. Bring more ammo, seriously.
 
I'm trying to figure out how you shot four groups with 10 rounds. Could be the rifle, scope, ammunition, shooter, or combination of the above. We really don't have enough information to properly diagnose the problem.
 
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One of the best lines I've ever seen here. : )

Anyways, I'd start with the basics--is the bolt, chamber, bore etc. properly cleaned and lubed (OK--won't start that food fight--but at least followed the manufacturer's directions)? Are your cases showing anything odd? Are you sure the forend portion of the stock isn't coming in contact with the barrel? receiver screws properly tightened?

It's not that unusual for a rifle to be "grouping lousy" and then seemingly miraculously "come together" with the right cartridge. I never pass judgement on a rifle's potential until I'm at least 100 rounds down the tube--it's going to take me alone that long to get a good feel for it, usually. I wouldn't worry about group precision until I was shooting a reasonable selection of premium ammo and handloads. I like to use the long bag rests that are easier to hold and repeat the rifle's position on--the closer to the trigger the better (in other words lessen the weight variables out towards the forend as much as possible.

Just a few wild guesses.
 
There are so many variables when starting with a new rifle and scope. I would remount the scope and make sure everything is done correctly. Then I would start with the ammo. Some guns can be very ammo sensitive. Never just try one weight and brand of ammo. (FYI Federal Fusion seems to do well in alot of rifles). Next I would check how the action is mounted to the stock. Its not uncommon to find a loose screw or clearance issue. Then look at the shooter.;) Finally I would check the scope for a defect.
 
Ammo is not an issue

PATHFINDER45. AMMO IS NOT AN ISSUE....HAVE PLENTY OF IT. I ONLY TOOK 10 TO STRESS CONCENTRATION. i have used this scope on my tikka 300 varmint hb before i got my st-10. So scope is not an issue.
 
STAGPANTHER THATS PROBABLY ONE OF THE BEST ADVICES IVE GOTNSO FAR. i will really look into all of that and definitely follow up with the premium ammo for at least 100 rounds. In this rifle i only use Nosler Throphy Grade Long Range with accubond. I have about 25 boxes still so ill see everything turns out after a fine inspection and at least another 50 rounds
 
STAGPANTHER THATS PROBABLY ONE OF THE BEST ADVICES IVE GOTNSO FAR. i will really look into all of that and definitely follow up with the premium ammo for at least 100 rounds. In this rifle i only use Nosler Throphy Grade Long Range with accubond. I have about 25 boxes still so ill see everything turns out after a fine inspection and at least another 50 rounds
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Just the standard guesses--I'm no expert. Also make sure you're giving your barrel enough cool down between shots.

I'm not saying use premium ammo for your first 100 necessarily--just that I wouldn't worry so much about precision when you take the first shots using conventional factory ammo. I believe in barrel break-ins--most people don't --arguing it puts unnecessary wear on the bore. Always seems to work for me--even if the benefits are imaginary : )
 
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I know you trust that scope that you have on the rifle, but...I'd still try another scope. I had a new scope go bad during load workups for a new rifle. I had groups all over the place. Made me crazy. Finally had nothing else to try but to swap out the scope. It was the scope. A brand new scope. Wasn't expecting that.

And just the other day I was shooting an old rifle with a new barrel. Scope was a proven performer. Grouping was terrible. I just could NOT figure out where the problem was. For some reason, I picked the rifle up by the scope (maybe to throw the whole thing) and the scope was very loose. How'd that happen....I have no idea.

Just for grins, try another scope and recheck all the screws on the mounts and rings. Can't hurt to eliminate one variable.

I seriously doubt that barrel breakin is the issue. I've broken some in and not broken some in and I just can't see that it makes a difference. If you have to shoot a bunch of ammo through the barrel in the hopes that it'll fix your problem, that isn't much of a plan.
 
I personally have a very difficult time shooting from the vanguard bipod. It's a great active hunting bipod, but terrible for target shooting. It is spring loaded on a pivoting tilt system and its about a foot off the ground. I am much bettter suited using a low to the ground, simple and cheap bipod like a ncstar, disappointing since the vanguard bipods are far from cheap. The fact that it pivots so much, it doesn't lend to shot-to-shot repeatability. Just my opinion as fellow vanguard owner.
 
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