The Ruger American rifle... in a word, phenominal. :)

I am glad that you are getting such great accuracy out of the Ruger American. Every review I have read about it are that it is an accurate rifle, with the only complaints being that the front of the stock flexes and the stock feels 'cheap'. I look forward to Ruger offering the rifle with a laminated stock with the bedding blocks, or an after market company offering drop-in laminated stocks with bedding blocks.
 
Hey Dan, with those 100 grainers try some Winchester Supreme 780. I currently shoot 100 grain Sierra Gamekings using the 780, and the recoil is fine as well as sub moa accuracy in our Mark X.
 
I might think about buying a Ruger American in a heavy/varmint-barrel .223 if that ever comes to pass. I like the bolt, hate the stock, like the trigger and safety, and don't need any of the calibers they offer.
 
Interesting design for transferring recoil forces (gotta have something, right?).

I think I like it better than Savage's Axis budget stick, where the recoil lug (traditional) is actually part of the stock, and fits into a recess in the action. The exact reverse of the traditional design.

All of this is possible now with the extreme accuracy of CNC machinery- exacting tolerances and consistency on the stock end, and the receiver end are required to make this concept work.

Same reason aluminum bedding blocks- which were the shiznit just a couple of years ago- are rapidly being replaced by all- aluminum precision chassis systems perfectly machined to fit the actions they're designed for.

We're all beneficiaries of this better technology, advancing- and becoming cheaper- every day. Who would have thought just a few years ago that you could buy a mass-produced rifle- for $300- that could shoot sub-minute with factory match ammo? Not to mention the accuracy/consistency of the factory barrels obviously being a part of the system...
 
true... things have improved a lot, and you can get a rifle today that will get the job done very well, for a lot less money than they used to cost.

I had not mentioned it yet, but the barrel on this .243 seems pretty smooth... can't seem to get much copper from it at all... going on 100 rounds down the tube at this point, and it's cleaning up very easily... Butch's with a few wet patches seems to get all there is in there to get... :)
 
Looked high and low at local gun shops for an American in .308. Stopped by wally world and what did I find??? An American in .308!! They also had one in '06. The .308 followed me home!! Topped it with a nikon 3x9x40. Cleaned her up and out to my range. After initial sighting at 25 meters, backed up to 100 and with a few adjustments it shot 1 MOA consistantly!! Shooting WW white box NATO!! I'm one happy camper!!!:D
 
Looking at the two recoil blocks, it seems that it would be impossible for both to maintain contact with the rear of the notches. I'd probably use some strong bedding compound to maximize contact at those points...but that's just me.
 
I see they're bring out a 7mm-08 in both original version and new compact with a 20"bbl. The compact has my interest for my daughter's first deer season next fall
 
POI shift with different temperatures

I'm considering one of these myself. I did read something about the point of impact being different than what it was sighted at if it is shot in an area where the temperature is different or much different. I think it is something about metal to metal chassis or bedding. Has anyone heard of this? I don't know much about rifle bedding as one can see.
 
I'm no expert either but it's my understanding if you zero any rifle when its 80 and dry . Then go shoot it when it 30 and humid the gun will not shoot the same . that has to do with many factors . When the ammo/powder is hot/warm it will burn better/faster and create more pressure and you will shoot a little high and the opposite if zeroed when hot and then shooting in the cold you will most likely shoot low . I would also think if your barrel is very cold your POI will change quite a bit as it heats up from shooting . Now that's my understanding ( I am talking about the lighter sporter contour barrels ). If I'm wrong please refer to my first 3 words in this post .:D

I will add that savage has been known for there accuracy and the accu-stock is bedded metal on metal .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N49uIIRnA3w

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYZJnUyrEQk
.
 
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yes... all you have to do is play with a ballistics program a bit, input some different temperatures and/or humidity levels... and elevations... and you'll see zero shift, for sure.

With the free floated barrel, the POI shift will be minimized, but it'll still be there...

High end rifle stocks today are generally always metal-to-metal where the stock and receiver meet.

Dan
 
Many modern powders- such as Hodgdon's "Extreme" powders, are temperature insensitive. The three I use most (and are universally popular as well)- Varget, H4350, and 8208 XBR are all in that class. One less variable to worry about...

Effects of temp and humidity on bullet flight are unnoticeable at "typical" zero ranges of 100 or 200 yards (with these types of powders). It's long-range where those variables come into play...

POI shift from barrel temp depends on the barrel- if high quality and stress-relieved, sporter contours can continue to shoot well even when hot.
It's more a function of barrel stiffness- than contour.

I had a 20" Savage factory lightweight sporter that did not suffer from POI shifts when hot. Short= stiffer, for length, than one of the same contour that's much longer.
 
I'm no expert either but it's my understanding if you zero any rifle when its 80 and dry . Then go shoot it when it 30 and humid the gun will not shoot the same . that has to do with many factors . When the ammo/powder is hot/warm it will burn better/faster and create more pressure and you will shoot a little high and the opposite if zeroed when hot and then shooting in the cold you will most likely shoot low . I would also think if your barrel is very cold your POI will change quite a bit as it heats up from shooting . Now that's my understanding ( I am talking about the lighter sporter contour barrels ). If I'm wrong please refer to my first 3 words in this post .
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Never experienced this with any of my rifles. All still shoot to zero.
 
I have a freezer at my range so I can cold barrel zero my deer rifles in the summer time. I also have it so I can check cold barrel zero without waiting several hours. Put your ammo and rifle in the deep freezer overnight, get it out on a 100 degree day and shoot a shot while the rifle and ammo is still very cold. Let them set out for a couple hours in the 100 degree heat and shoot another shot. Bet both shots will not be in the same place.
 
Great review on the American. I've handled them in the store over and over and over. I'm sure I'll have one in the future. I do love my M77 Mk II all-weather .300 Win Mag in it's new Boyds stock. I had the Gander Mountain gunsmith glass and pillar bed it and free float the barrel and now it is a one hole group rifle if conditions are right and I'm shooting good. That's with cheapo factory ammo. It's 20 years old also. Ruger engineering is excellent.
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What was the cost of that Warbirdlover? My only rifles are an M1 carbine, and a cheap .22. I was thinking of getting this as my first real rifle later in the year. In addition to not really knowing what the above does ;) how much is the cost?
 
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