Stevens Single in .32 Long

I am thinking to buy a 32-20 reamer and do the work my self.

Any thoughts on the project?
Click to expand...

I don't think it will hold it.
Frank DeHaas said the maximum caliber for a Favorite is .32 S&W. Not even .32 S&W Long. That for smokeless, I think gunziner Gil Sengel shot one in .32 S&W Long or .32 Long Colt but with black powder only.
 
Black powder only

.32-20 that I would shoot in it would be Black powder loads. There is the possibility, though that the rifle gets out of my hands. I don't generally sell firearms but I could die. The next owner may shoot smokeless powder loads.

I want to turn this rifle into a shooter. But I don't want to go looking around for rimfire .32 longs.

If not .32-20, what do you suggest?
 
Jim Watson said:
My reading indicates 32 SW Long black powder... if the chamber will clean up and you can convert to centerfire.
Click to expand...
The chamber should clean up as there's a near .020" difference in diameter. Unless there's a spot that is heavily pitted, it should clean perfectly.

I was going to suggest .32 S&W Long as well. .32 Mag could be doable, but these old rimfire .32's are most likely black powder era guns, so no reason to try to get as much power out of them as possible.
 
To TK, Yes...I saw that.

I kind of like the idea of owning it. If I can't find a breech block I won't need it at all.

I am not going to try drilling out the only breech block I have even if the rifle will never be a shooter.
 
To TT

That video is the one that gave me the idea to do the rechambering. It looks easy enough but those sound like famous last words.

I need to inspect the extractor very carefully. It is already very thin.

Not interested in reloading the rim fire cartridges. Just seems too contrived.

No I want to either leave it as is or convert it to a BP cartridge rifle.
 
I am working on the counterbores on the stock. The home made putty is a better color match for this stock than it was for the percussion shotgun. Photos when finished.
 
Photos of stock repair.

The stock is now nice and tight with almost imperceptive lateral play.

Right side repair of tack holes was quite successful. Dowel hole is not quite so good, but better than a brass bolt head.

Left side tack holes are noticeable since I had to drill and fill with dowels. The dowel hole is a little better.
 

Attachments

  • Doweled and filled left.jpg
    Doweled and filled left.jpg
    82.9 KB · Views: 29
  • Doweled and filled right.jpg
    Doweled and filled right.jpg
    139.2 KB · Views: 28
Doc Hoy said:
That video is the one that gave me the idea to do the rechambering. It looks easy enough but those sound like famous last words.

I need to inspect the extractor very carefully. It is already very thin.

Not interested in reloading the rim fire cartridges. Just seems too contrived.

No I want to either leave it as is or convert it to a BP cartridge rifle.
Click to expand...
Watched some videos of this rifle and it looks like the breech block is a lot different than the Rolling Block in the MidwayUSA video. So different that I think you would need a custom made breech block and hammer to do the conversion.

It seems the Remingtons are the best for doing rimfire to centerfire conversions due to the relative ease.
 
Back to TT

I have looked all over the place and can't find a replacement breech block so I am having to make one.

This will be a first. I wonder if I can run a milling machine with my fingers crossed

Started with a mild steel bar and milled it down on both sides to the proper thickness.

Inked the surface and laid out the shape of the breech block.

Milled the billet to shape.
 

Attachments

  • Breech block c.jpg
    Breech block c.jpg
    191.2 KB · Views: 26
  • Breech block a .jpg
    Breech block a .jpg
    199.9 KB · Views: 21
  • Breech Block b.jpg
    Breech Block b.jpg
    226.5 KB · Views: 24
Next photos

Next was boring the firing pin channel.

I just took measurements from the original to locate the starting point on the hammer end of the breech block and the depth of the large diameter.
 

Attachments

  • Breech block e.jpg
    Breech block e.jpg
    167.1 KB · Views: 18
Then the firing pin

For this part I started with some steel that is much harder.

I turned down the final diameters of the firing pin.

Then milled in the recess for the cross pin.

When I test fitted the breech block in the rifle I noted a very slight gap above the breech block. Entirely possible that the rim of the cartridge will be visible with the breech closed.

Wondering how I messed that up, I put the original back into the rifle and noted that the original leaves a slight gap as well.

Still trying to get the barrel reamed for a center fire cartridge.
 

Attachments

  • Firing pin c.jpg
    Firing pin c.jpg
    86.5 KB · Views: 19
  • Firing pin b.jpg
    Firing pin b.jpg
    167.7 KB · Views: 15
  • Firing pin a.jpg
    Firing pin a.jpg
    185.7 KB · Views: 17
Rechambering

The Midway video, shows the rifle being rechambered for .32 S&W Long. Is the .32H&R Magnum too heavy? I would use black powder only.
 
Last edited:
I'm a Stevens Favorite fan as well and would like to point out that the breech block can but dose not always lock up on the receiver. This breech block on the right is for a current project shows the wear of touching the receiver yet the finished one shows a gap. I did weld the breech block and fit it to the receiver, it just doesn't show in the photo. This adds support to the action when closed.

IMG_0505 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top