Smith and Wesson serial number search

my grandpa gave me his 38 s&w special ctg serial number 86 k2307 also MOD.15-4 C10 94042 The gun is nickel plated (i think) it is in a leather holster stamped 1934 with S&w logo the serial number is on the butt and when you swing the cylinder out 8 6 K2307. i was just wondering how old it was i would never sell it.
 
joshuadan: Your 15-4 dates from 1980. As you noted, 86K2307 is the serial number - the C10 and 94042, which I assume are stamped in the frame cutout when you swing the cylinder out, are known as "assembly numbers" that are used during manufacture and have no particular significance. The .38 S&W Special CTG marking on the barrel is the caliber - .38 Smith and Wesson Special, more commonly known as just .38 Special. "CTG" is the abbreviation for "cartridge."
 
Grip interchangeability?

What are the odds that a pre-Model 10 with a serial number in the 472,000 range would have the same (or very similar) grips as one from the 623,000 range?

When my father gave me my grandfather's pistol, it had some artifical stag-horn grips on it. They weren't very comfortable, so I replaced them with some Uncle Mike's rubber wrap-around grips (I kept the fake stag-horn ones, though).

eBay has some original wooden grips (the ones in the 623,000 range), and I'm curious if they're close enough to what would have come on mine to make it worth bidding on them.

Thanks,
Scott
 
What are the odds that a pre-Model 10 with a serial number in the 472,000 range would have the same (or very similar) grips as one from the 623,000 range?

Tough question. The problem is that SCSW just lists a wide range for dates and SNs on those old .38 M&Ps: SN 241704 in 1915, and SN 700000 in 1942. If we do a little interpolating, making the assumption that production was spread evenly over those years (which is admittedly a SWAG), then your gun was made around 1928, and a gun in the 623,000 range would have been made around 1937.

S&W used the same grips on the early K-frame hand ejectors from 1920 to 1929, then changed to a different design from 1929 to 1941, so the problem is that, using the assumptions above, your gun is right on the cusp of the change in 1929, which was to go from a grip that had no medallion (i.e., just smooth walnut at the top) to one that had flush-mounted silver medallions. I would say it's a toss-up which of those options your gun originally came with. Either way, you would want the older-style round top grips, not the magna style (and maybe that's close enough?).
 
Thanks so much. I'm not obsessed with getting the "correct" grips for the pistol, but I'd like to find some that are at least "appropriate" to its vintage.

I think I'm going to pay the S&W historian to find out more about the pistol (and get the pretty certificate). I'll post the manufacture date here so at least we'll have one more data point within the 1915-1942 range.

On an unrelated note, why don't I have a "quote" button? :confused:
 
On an unrelated note, why don't I have a "quote" button?

You need to copy the part of the text you want to quote, then paste it into your reply, then highlight it and hit the "quote" icon just to the right of the little mountain icon over on the right side of the row of formatting options.

When you get the manufacture date for your revolver, pretty much anyone here with a copy of SCSW can tell you what the original grips would have been, and you can go from there. Be sure to check over at the S&W Forum, where I'll bet someone will have exactly what you need (price might be another matter).
 
29-2

My friend has a 29-2 sn-N360XX, blued and 8 3/8 barrel. Could you please tell me the year and about how much one would be worth in close to great condition. Gun only no box or anything. He is going to sell it for $350 but seems too cheap to me. Thanks for any help in helping him.
 
My friend has a 29-2 sn-N360XX, blued and 8 3/8 barrel. Could you please tell me the year and about how much one would be worth in close to great condition. Gun only no box or anything. He is going to sell it for $350 but seems too cheap to me. Thanks for any help in helping him.

I dont have my book to tell me the year, but a dash 2 would be early in the line.

$350 would be way low, unless he sells it to me ;)
Look at Gunbroker.net for similar guns and you will find the prices end up starting in the mid to high $500s and go up from there.
 
Smith sisters....

Good evening!

Is there any date of manufacture information on my new "Smith sisters"?

Model 67-1 Serial Number AWA75XX

Model 15-3 Serial Number 3K25XX​

I got a bad case of 38s last week!
 
22 revolver

I want to thank everyone that has helped find S&W info. I did a search before making my post. I think I have come close but we will try here. This is what I just got from my aunt after my uncle passed. Older 22, barrel stamped 22 Smith & Wesson CTG, ser 228xx, 7 shots, wood grips. If I can get some info on this I would appreciate.

Thanks in advance,
kerby
 
Older 22, barrel stamped 22 Smith & Wesson CTG, ser 228xx, 7 shots, wood grips.

Wow. Sounds like a .22 Ladysmith, 3rd Model. Made from 1911 to 1921 on the "M" frame, the smallest frame used for S&W hand ejectors, with only a bit over 12,000 manufactured. Depending on configuration (barrel length, etc.) and condition, could be worth some serious change. Chambered for .22 Long, but SCSW says it should not be fired with modern ammo.
 
could you give me a date and any info on my fathers 38? serial # 9635xx. there is an s in front of the number on the butt about a half inch away. there is an H stamp on the frame with the cylinder swung out. my father was a guard at a german officers pow camp in Boston during WW2. and a guard for republic steel after that.
thank you in advance!
Dave
 
could you give me a date and any info on my fathers 38? serial # 9635xx. there is an s in front of the number on the butt about a half inch away.
S9635XX makes it a 38 Military & Police postwar. Serial numbers ran from S811120 in 1945 to S999999 in 1948.

I have an unfired Model 34 that is N82xxx. Assume a 69 or 70?
Model 34's do not have a "N" serial prefix. Take the serial number from the underside of the frames grip butt. There will be either no prefix or a "M" prefix.

Jim
 
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