Show me your semi-autos in NP3/NP3+, CeraPlate II, & Hard Chrome (Metaloy, etc.)!

Not an auto but I had this unfinished PPC project M10 I picked up cheap completed by a gunsmith I use a lot and then had it hard chromed by Mahovsky's. They do a great job at a very reasonable price.

Before-
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After-
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I've had NP3 coated guns and one done in CPII from CCR, but of those two I thought the NP3 was the better finish for sure. I wouldn't hesitate to get NP3 or NP3+ again, they're great finishes and very wear resistant.
 
What are the mechanical differences between the B/BB versus F/FS? I have to admit I prefer the look of squared trigger guards on the F models, but it's probably not worth holding out for one if I can find a cheap B. I mean, it hasn't happened yet, but I can pretend it might, right?

I've seen well-maintained nickel 84's sell for $800+ on Gunbroker. I'm aiming for $300 or less. Add $250 for electroless nickel, $25 for FFL fees, maybe $50 for wood grips, plus shipping... I'd really like to keep the total cost under $650.

IG, borrowing from a post I wrote elsewhere, here are the major functional and cosmetic differences between the different models of the 84/85 (and 81/82) series of pistols.

Succeeding models retain all of the characteristics of preceding models unless otherwise noted:

(1) 84/85: no internal firing pin safety; ambi safety blocks sear; smooth front and back straps; blued slide and barrel; polished anodizing on frame; smooth and rounded walnut grips with no logo/medallion
(2) 84B/85B: automatic firing pin safety; ambi safety also disconnects trigger; grooved front and back straps; smooth walnut grips with flattened sides and added medallion; wider rear sight dovetail
(3) 84BB/85BB: slightly heavier/thicker slide; more slide serrations; slide flats slightly recessed/indented above safety (see my photo); larger diameter guide rod and recoil spring; checkered walnut grips; dot-and-post sights
(4) 84F/85F: safety-decocker (no cocked-and-locked capability); squared trigger guard; Bruniton finish instead of blued; matte anodized frame; chrome-lined barrel introduced; hammer size reduced; no half-cock position; different slide notch at safety (full cut-out); full slide-catch notch reduced to groove in underside of the slide (not visible from side view); plastic grips
(5) 84FS/85FS: internal safety component modifications eliminate false detent between "fire" and "safe" on F-model safety-decocker

For a project gun that you intend to refinish and then shoot, I would go with a BB model or later, since the slightly more robust slide beginning with the BB makes the gun a softer shooter and, theoretically, more durable. I prefer the BB model because of the beautiful bluing Beretta used to do on the pre-F guns and because of the polished anodizing on the frame. Here's my 84BB for an illustration of what I'm talking about:



However, this is obviously irrelevant for a gun that's going to be refinished. I mentioned the BB in this context only because I had seen a large batch of used BB models on Gunbroker going for $325 or less not too long ago; I think there were a few F models among them as well. (Unfortunately, a lot of these trade-ins seemed to have buggered-up grips/grip screws and actual dings in the metal rather than simple finish wear.) For an 84/85 to refinish I would just go with a BB or later; for the squared trigger-guard, you'll likely find an F for a nice price before you'll find an FS.

Good luck!
 
Beautiful work on those guns, Broker, WVsig, and WC145! Keep 'em coming, folks! :) (Revolver pics like WC145's appreciated as well.)
 
I've had NP3 coated guns and one done in CPII from CCR, but of those two I thought the NP3 was the better finish for sure. I wouldn't hesitate to get NP3 or NP3+ again, they're great finishes and very wear resistant.

Good stuff. It's hard to find folks who have used both companies.

Could you elaborate a bit more on your experiences? I was getting tempted by CCR's current discount offers, but the more I read, the more it seems that their customer service is seriously lacking. People complain about long delays and unreturned communications, but they generally say the work is well-done. I don't read any complaints at all about Robar, however, whether related to their work or their CS.

Could you say a bit about why you found NP3 to be a superior finish to CPII? Could you also describe any aesthetic differences between them (like tint, texture, etc.)? Thanks!
 
No pistols, but these are the only two guns that I own with a NP3 finish. My Patriot Ordnance P415 and P308. This was a quick photo the day that I brought them home. I really like the two tone look on AR15 pattern rifles myself.

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For a project gun that you intend to refinish and then shoot, I would go with a BB model or later, since the slightly more robust slide beginning with the BB makes the gun a softer shooter and, theoretically, more durable. I prefer the BB model because of the beautiful bluing Beretta used to do on the pre-F guns and because of the polished anodizing on the frame. Here's my 84BB for an illustration of what I'm talking about:

Thank you, AustinTX, that is exactly what I needed to know!

And it turns out there are a couple cheap BB's on Gunbroker right now. I'd promised myself not to spend any money on guns until after Christmas, but... $250 hardly counts as spending, right? Right? Bueller? Right?
 
My *semi-custom* Glocks, models 20 and 29. You can discern the caliber. ;)

Set-ups are similar on both: Robar applied their NP3 finish to the barrels, slides, and slide internals; BTC did the grip reduction work; I added fixed Trijicons.
The G29 runs Wolff's XP recoil ass'y & 21lbs spring; the G20 runs an ISMI 21lb captured-spring unit.



Another view:

G20.
 
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So, ... while I really love my NP3-ed Glocks, that finish, as Broker pointed out, isn't the only dog in the fight for satisfying your "esthetic" jones. A competently-applied hard chrome finish can *bling-up* an old pistol to the point where your shootin' buddies will be drooling with envy each time you pull it out at the range.

Below is my 3rd Gen S&W 4566. It came to me dirty and somewhat scratched on the slide near the muzzle, but was otherwise a much-carried, little-shot "police trade-in." The price was a steal, so that made it easy to send off to Virgil Tripp @ Tripp Research (in Texas) for a complete detail strip and cleaning, and the application of TR's HC finish. Had the mag HC-ed as well. The Trijicons were still GTG, so all I did was add new Wolff springs and pick up about 5 extra 45XX-series mags (the later ones w/ the black followers.)

Yes, some of my buds have made offers, but it's just too pretty to part with. :D. Plus, this has to be the softest shooting .45 autoloader I've ever owned.

 
CCR guns first...

.45 Beretta PX4 (actually, for sale)

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9mm Beretta PX4

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Ruger LCP

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Bolt assembly in my 9mm Beretta CX4

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Barrels and controls on my two S&W M&P40s

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Bolt assembly on my Ruger 10/22 Takedown

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Have plenty of magazines done, as well as my Glock 30S. Also, all of my Garand clips are cera-plated.
 
Had to break it up to get the extra three pictures in.

Robar only did two of my guns... both NP3 Plus.

S&W 642-1

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Remington 870 Police

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And a group shot of a few different finishes.

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The Beretta 92 Brigadier is the standard Beretta stainless with the slide, then CCR's cera-hide "stainless" on the frame.
 


Can't tell you for certain who's finish this is, only that it is some kind of hard chrome, and the previous owner thought it was worth $400 more than the same gun blued...

Not a pocket auto!
(unless you have really large pockets)
:D
 
Hey Screwball

I have a 642-1 with not a mark on it that I'm trying to resist having hard chromed. You're not helping any! Yours looks great. Much better than the factory finish that doesn't quite match.
 
I have a 642-1 with not a mark on it that I'm trying to resist having hard chromed. You're not helping any! Yours looks great. Much better than the factory finish that doesn't quite match.


My main reason for going with NP3 or cera-plate is the corrosion resistance. The screws on that J-frame, as well as my LCP, would have rusted out with pocket carry. Even the anodizing was taking a beating.
 
but... $250 hardly counts as spending, right? Right? Bueller? Right?

That's always been my view. :D

So, ... while I really love my NP3-ed Glocks, that finish, as Broker pointed out, isn't the only dog in the fight for satisfying your "esthetic" jones. A competently-applied hard chrome finish can *bling-up* an old pistol to the point where your shootin' buddies will be drooling with envy each time you pull it out at the range.

agtman, I'm definitely considering doing HC on a used gun. It all depends on what I end up buying. Some guns to my eyes seem like a better match for HC (S&W third-gen. pistols like yours, HK PSP/P7M8, 1911s), while others look like they were made for a nickel finish and wood grips (Beretta 84/85, Sig P6). It looks outstanding on that 4566. I may have to include third-gen. S&Ws among the used pistols I'm thinking of buying for this...
 
Thanks for all those pics, Screwball.

Do you have a recommendation between Robar and CCR? Any quality difference in the finishes? Customer service impressions (especially if you had any problems)? So far the folks I've talked to via PM who have used both companies unanimously give the nod to Robar, but I'm curious to see if someone has an opposing view.

Also, is there any visual difference between NP3 and CPII that doesn't come across in your photos? They look very similar to me in your pics.
 
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Do you have a recommendation between Robar and CCR? Any quality difference in the finishes? Customer service impressions (especially if you had any problems)? So far the folks I've talked to via PM who have used both companies unanimously give the nod to Robar, but I'm curious to see if someone has an opposing view.



Also, is there any visual difference between NP3 and CPII that doesn't come across in your photos? They look very similar to me in your pics.


You won't go wrong with either company... if something is wrong, both will fix it. But not something you have to worry about.

They both have ok customer service, but I'd give Robar a slight nod in that department. CCR is a much smaller company than Robar, and it shows. When I first used them, they double charged my card. No issue, then maybe the third time, it happened again. They kept saying it was the processing company, which I didn't believe at that time, so I fought it through my credit card company. It was appealed, so I sent a copy of CCR's email saying they were going to credit my card, a month plus before I contacted my credit company. It was squashed after that, so I did believe them it was the processing company. Other than that, estimates for turnaround are all over the place, but expect to wait a little bit for it. In my eyes, I rather have it done right than rushed...

They did try to fix the wait times. They offered scheduling for work... I used it once and never received contact to send it in (I'll explain later). When I got in touch with them, they did it pretty quick, but I opt to just send it and wait. They also started doing a system to get updates on orders. My last order, I never got a number to look it up.

The big issues you'll have with CCR is their communication... at least online. Their ISP sucks, and you'll sometimes not have emails going to/from them. I just had to resort to forum communication regarding my work order last week (don't know about telephone, since I try not to play phone tag unless it is necessary due to work). Again, small business, so it should be considered before you bash them for it. They are great people and do great work.

Robar contacted me on ever little thing. The serial number on the butt of my J-frame faded, so they had to restamp it. The trigger guard on my shotgun is pot metal, and can't be plated. All that resulted in a phone call, plus the one when they were getting ready to start work/finish up. Bigger business... higher prices. The work that Robar does is considerably higher than CCR, even with sale pricing included.

However, there are two reasons I'll use Robar; plating alloy and plating long guns. CCR doesn't do either, which is why the only two guns I had Robar do were in those categories. If I had to do more alloy framed pistols or long guns, I'll send it to them. My recommendation... CCR unless it falls into one of those two categories. Better value for a similar work.

NP3 Plus is a little duller than cera-plate.., but it is nothing huge. I have no idea about standard NP3, but the original cera-plate is close to the current one (which is why I lump them together). Unless you have the two side-by-side, they are identical.
 
Very, very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to write that out.

However, there are two reasons I'll use Robar; plating alloy and plating long guns. CCR doesn't do either, which is why the only two guns I had Robar do were in those categories.

I guess I hadn't done enough research yet to realize that CCR wouldn't plate Al-alloy frames. That makes using Robar pretty much automatic for a number of finish-worn project guns I'd buy (Berettas and Sigs).
 
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