Should I get a semi-auto or a revolver as my first SD gun?
- Thread starter truth_seeker
- Start date
Where does your experience take you? Are you comfortable with semi's? Do you know how to clear any type of malfunction you might run across? If you say no, or have to think about it, then I'd go with a revolver.
Contrary to popular belief, revolvers are excellent weapons, and tailored with custom rounds made today, nothing to laugh at.
Contrary to popular belief, revolvers are excellent weapons, and tailored with custom rounds made today, nothing to laugh at.
orionengnr
New member
You seem fixated on the "low bore axis"--I remember your recent post wherein you were focused on that.
With more experience, you will quit worrying about what some "expert" says and figure out what you prefer and shoot well. *
Concentrate on getting that variety of experience now. Shoot everything you can.
A .22LR is a great training tool. (My choice was a $250 Ruger MkII, but there are others.) You can focus on the mechanics (grip, sight picture, breath, trigger control) while burning cheap ammo and developing good habits (instead of burning expensive ammo and re-inforcing a flinch).
Took me a long time to figure this out, but once I did (thanks in no small part to listening to folks on forums like this one) my shooting improved rapidly and dramatically.
Remember, practice does not make perfect--perfect practice makes perfect.
After that...a quality .357 revolver is the most versatile handgun in existence. Shoot light .38s for familiarization/training, .38 JHPs for HD, and "real" .357s for carry.
Next best is a quality .38...recently there are lots of S&W M-64s out there (former Brinks Security trade-ins) for about $200. In the last 5 months, I have set up four friends with them. Last time I checked, my LGS still had a few for that price. Even with shipping and FFL fees, that is a good price. PM me if you want their contact info.
There are no "one-size fits all" solutions, but this is a good place to start.
After a quick review of your recent threads/posts, I would offer some additional advice:
Search more, read more, post less.
*= I am not an "expert", and I did not sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
With more experience, you will quit worrying about what some "expert" says and figure out what you prefer and shoot well. *
Concentrate on getting that variety of experience now. Shoot everything you can.
A .22LR is a great training tool. (My choice was a $250 Ruger MkII, but there are others.) You can focus on the mechanics (grip, sight picture, breath, trigger control) while burning cheap ammo and developing good habits (instead of burning expensive ammo and re-inforcing a flinch).
Took me a long time to figure this out, but once I did (thanks in no small part to listening to folks on forums like this one) my shooting improved rapidly and dramatically.
Remember, practice does not make perfect--perfect practice makes perfect.
After that...a quality .357 revolver is the most versatile handgun in existence. Shoot light .38s for familiarization/training, .38 JHPs for HD, and "real" .357s for carry.
Next best is a quality .38...recently there are lots of S&W M-64s out there (former Brinks Security trade-ins) for about $200. In the last 5 months, I have set up four friends with them. Last time I checked, my LGS still had a few for that price. Even with shipping and FFL fees, that is a good price. PM me if you want their contact info.
There are no "one-size fits all" solutions, but this is a good place to start.
After a quick review of your recent threads/posts, I would offer some additional advice:
Search more, read more, post less.
*= I am not an "expert", and I did not sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
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. personaly i like them both.Forum posts, .38spl +P; .357magnum, DA only revolvers..
Depending on your skill level & training with pistols or DA revolvers, I would agree with other forum members that a simple 3/4" barrel .357magnum or snub DA only revolver like a Ruger SP101 2.25" or LCR .357. You could use .38spl +P loads with more powerful .357mag rounds in reserve if required,
.
A well made HK LEM or SIG DAK pistol in .357sig could work well but unless you buy a LE surplus or a SIG CPO(pre-owned) P229 or P226, the top models are a bit out of your price range. A Beretta PX4 C(constant) or D model in .40 or .357sig could be a great carry pistol. I had a C model 9mm PX4 Storm in 2009 that was a solid carry/duty sidearm.
A S&W 7 shot 686+ with a 3" barrel or a new .327Federal DA only revolver would work but custom modifications would run up as much as a brand new DA only semi-auto pistol.
Depending on your skill level & training with pistols or DA revolvers, I would agree with other forum members that a simple 3/4" barrel .357magnum or snub DA only revolver like a Ruger SP101 2.25" or LCR .357. You could use .38spl +P loads with more powerful .357mag rounds in reserve if required,
.A well made HK LEM or SIG DAK pistol in .357sig could work well but unless you buy a LE surplus or a SIG CPO(pre-owned) P229 or P226, the top models are a bit out of your price range. A Beretta PX4 C(constant) or D model in .40 or .357sig could be a great carry pistol. I had a C model 9mm PX4 Storm in 2009 that was a solid carry/duty sidearm.
A S&W 7 shot 686+ with a 3" barrel or a new .327Federal DA only revolver would work but custom modifications would run up as much as a brand new DA only semi-auto pistol.
scorpion_tyr
New member
Most guns are going to be a lot more accurate than what the shooter is capable of. The Px4 Storms are fine weapons, with one exception. Next time you're at a store that has one take a good look at it. Now take the safety off and try to rack the slide. With the safety engaged it's fine, but with it off, or in the up position the points on the lever dig into your skin quite a bit.
Instead of comparing the accuracy of one gun to another, compare your accuracy with each gun. If you shoot one gun better than another, go with it. If you can't rent or borrow guns to shoot take a look at the sights. Whichever gives you a sight picture you like best, or think you could be more accurate with, then go with that.
Good advice above. Get you a good versatile .357. With it you can use lower power .38spl and .357 up to the higher pressure loadings.
I have several S&W 686's and Ruger GP100 in sts and they are simply a joy to shoot. For the newbie to handguns and concealed carry, if you are NOT 200% sure of the semi-auto, carry a revolver. Their are so many out that are perfect for concealed carry, and with loadings available, you don't need to feel undergunned.
Semi-auto's, as I stated earlier take a lot of knowledge as they do tend to malfunction far more often that revolvers, and you have to know how to clear a malf in your sleep, most often, by instinct, you know what type of malf has occurred. I've been shooting the 1911 platform for 40 years now, and I know it inside out. I've built them from the ground up, taken them apart, put them back together, shot them in competition, taken them into combat zones, and carried them as my concealed weapon of choice since the mid 80's.
A revolver, you pretty much are assured that when you pull the trigger it will go boom, you don't have to worry about remembering to take the safety off, or a shell casing getting jamed during cycling.
My best advice for all newcommers, get a revolver, then move onto the semi, and only use it when you've mastered it.
I have several S&W 686's and Ruger GP100 in sts and they are simply a joy to shoot. For the newbie to handguns and concealed carry, if you are NOT 200% sure of the semi-auto, carry a revolver. Their are so many out that are perfect for concealed carry, and with loadings available, you don't need to feel undergunned.
Semi-auto's, as I stated earlier take a lot of knowledge as they do tend to malfunction far more often that revolvers, and you have to know how to clear a malf in your sleep, most often, by instinct, you know what type of malf has occurred. I've been shooting the 1911 platform for 40 years now, and I know it inside out. I've built them from the ground up, taken them apart, put them back together, shot them in competition, taken them into combat zones, and carried them as my concealed weapon of choice since the mid 80's.
A revolver, you pretty much are assured that when you pull the trigger it will go boom, you don't have to worry about remembering to take the safety off, or a shell casing getting jamed during cycling.
My best advice for all newcommers, get a revolver, then move onto the semi, and only use it when you've mastered it.
Honestly, Scorpion is right on the money. No shooter out there with a modern firearm is even CLOSE to being AS ACCURATE as their firearm is. Anything outside of a 1-2" deviation in POI at 25 yards for most modern firearms is user error.
Personally, I'd say you need a Ruger GP100 in about a 4" barrel. It's the perfect substitute for a Smith and Wesson 686. It's a little heavier, but will shoot full powered .357 magnum loads all day with recoil feeling like a .38 special from a snub-revovler. The 4" barrel is about the best all-around length in my opinion, and shooting .38 special from this platform in great. Ruger has fantastic CS and you can count on handing this weapon down to your grandkids. Hold one and you'll see what I mean, they are incredibly solid and all around great guns.
*Just search GB.com and found them all day for about $525.
Just my .02.
(*adjusted to .454 for inflation)
~LT
Personally, I'd say you need a Ruger GP100 in about a 4" barrel. It's the perfect substitute for a Smith and Wesson 686. It's a little heavier, but will shoot full powered .357 magnum loads all day with recoil feeling like a .38 special from a snub-revovler. The 4" barrel is about the best all-around length in my opinion, and shooting .38 special from this platform in great. Ruger has fantastic CS and you can count on handing this weapon down to your grandkids. Hold one and you'll see what I mean, they are incredibly solid and all around great guns.
*Just search GB.com and found them all day for about $525.
Just my .02.
(*adjusted to .454 for inflation)
~LT
thesheepdog
New member
Taurus Raging Judge
Para Ordanance 1911
Para Ordanance 1911
It is a dealer's choice issue. I personally prefer a small light Revolver as a starter. Something in 357 mag. or.38spl. Possibly S&W or one of my own favorites Taurus 85 ultralight. Safe, light, concealable, dependable, and not too expensive to buy or to get in a lot of practice on acquisition and shooting well. If you don't practice and get it down well, it really doesn't matter what you pack.
Flint Ridge
New member
Research and test drive as noted. Get comfortable shooting. I was scared of revolvers then just bought an LCR in 357. Hogue Tamer grips, fine shooting 38 spl's and after 50 rounds of that I have become very comfortable shooting 357 magnums out of the 17 oz item, rapid fire. But I use a higher grip and this one does have a lower bore axis. Others say they can't stand the recoil. So...
Practice, find a good range with plenty to choose from and have fun. If your lucky and have or make new friends try some of theirs.
Revolvers are good places to start. But it took me over 25 years of gun buying to finally get one, should have done it long ago.
Practice, find a good range with plenty to choose from and have fun. If your lucky and have or make new friends try some of theirs.
Revolvers are good places to start. But it took me over 25 years of gun buying to finally get one, should have done it long ago.
Statureman
New member
two angles
I have owned handguns for eight years and shot then before that. From one side I would recommend a revolver as they are simple. I was a carpenter for years and adept at hand tools. I forgot how hard it can be to run auto until recently when I had the chance to let my eldest sister shoot my wife's 9mm semi. It just looked awkward and was not easy for her to shoot (safely) without a LOT of deliberate actions and me standing right there.
On the other hand a semi tames perceived recoil and my wife said "no thanks" when she tried a revolver. too snappy/uncomfortable for her, which is why she selected the auto.
IMHO it comes down to /preference and then practice. From my years of working with hand tools I can tell you, practice enough with anything will make you proficient/accurate with it to the point of being 2nd nature.
I have owned handguns for eight years and shot then before that. From one side I would recommend a revolver as they are simple. I was a carpenter for years and adept at hand tools. I forgot how hard it can be to run auto until recently when I had the chance to let my eldest sister shoot my wife's 9mm semi. It just looked awkward and was not easy for her to shoot (safely) without a LOT of deliberate actions and me standing right there.
On the other hand a semi tames perceived recoil and my wife said "no thanks" when she tried a revolver. too snappy/uncomfortable for her, which is why she selected the auto.
IMHO it comes down to /preference and then practice. From my years of working with hand tools I can tell you, practice enough with anything will make you proficient/accurate with it to the point of being 2nd nature.
paladin.gunslinger
Inactive
Chose the Revolver
Everyone has an opinion and there is some good classical advice here - like buy what you shoot best. I started with a Beretta 92 Inox. A fancy version of the M9 that replaced the 1911. But I actually went to the snubby .38 for my carry. I chose the Ruger LCR; loved it the first time i put it in my hand. I find very little muzzle flip in the .38; though I carry Remington Golden Sabre +P with a lot more kick for personal defense.
Revolvers never fail, and my Beretta has failed, but only with reloads. Do you want to trust reloads with your life, or that of your wife and kids?
True there is only 5 shots, but I can be more deadly with 5 well placed shots that some gangbanger with his sideways grip and run-n-gun attitude, and no aim at all. If you practice right and your good with the gun your 5 shots will definitely be better that his 15 or so!
but again buy what your comfortable with; practice all the time; and remember two things:
1. Carrying a gun puts you into a different class of citizen. Armed and Responsive.
2. If your going to carry, be prepared to use it.
Everyone has an opinion and there is some good classical advice here - like buy what you shoot best. I started with a Beretta 92 Inox. A fancy version of the M9 that replaced the 1911. But I actually went to the snubby .38 for my carry. I chose the Ruger LCR; loved it the first time i put it in my hand. I find very little muzzle flip in the .38; though I carry Remington Golden Sabre +P with a lot more kick for personal defense.
Revolvers never fail, and my Beretta has failed, but only with reloads. Do you want to trust reloads with your life, or that of your wife and kids?
True there is only 5 shots, but I can be more deadly with 5 well placed shots that some gangbanger with his sideways grip and run-n-gun attitude, and no aim at all. If you practice right and your good with the gun your 5 shots will definitely be better that his 15 or so!
but again buy what your comfortable with; practice all the time; and remember two things:
1. Carrying a gun puts you into a different class of citizen. Armed and Responsive.
2. If your going to carry, be prepared to use it.
g.willikers
New member
Don't ponder, get one of each.
You will anyway, might as well avoid the confusion and do it from the get go.
Then you'll be experienced with both.
You will anyway, might as well avoid the confusion and do it from the get go.
Then you'll be experienced with both.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both.
A revolver's strong points are as follows:
-A double-action revolver has one of the simplest manual-of-arms available. There are no manual safeties or magazine releases and the loaded/unloaded status can be verified by simply opening the cylinder and looking.
-A revolver is more reliable under certain conditions such as a contact-distance shot, a shot from underneath a cover garment, or a shot with an improper grip due to a weak or injured hand.
-Revolvers are more tolerant of a wider variety of ammunition including FMJ, LRN, SWC, HBWC, JHP, LSWCHP, and even shotshell loadings. Also, a revolver will not fail to cycle due to lighter than standard loadings. So long as there is enough pressure to get the bullet out of the barrel, a revolver can continue to function.
-A revolver can offer a better power-to-size ratio than a semi-automatic can. Few semi-autos can offer the power of a .357 Magnum in a gun the size of a small-frame, lightweight, five-shot revolver. Likewise, few semi-autos can offer the power of a .44 Magnum in a package the size and weight of a DA revolver in that caliber.
-Revolvers do not require magazines. All that is needed to use a revolver is the gun and a handful of cartridges. Also, a revolver is much faster to reload if forced to do so with loose cartridges.
-Revolvers typically have more rounded contours which make them easier for some people to conceal. My S&W J-Frame just looks like a generic lump in my pocket while my Walther PP (the closest size semi-auto I own) has more sharp angles that scream "gun".
-Because the gripframe of a revolver does not have to contain a magazine, there is a wider variety of aftermarket grips to tailor a revolver to the individual shooter's hands. I've found that putting Houge grips on my revolver can make a huge difference in the handling of the gun while I'm pretty much stuck with the grip shape on a semi-auto.
A semi-automatic has its own strong points too, they are as follows:
-A semi-automatic can be had in a much higher capacity package than a revolver. Revolver typically have a capacity of anywhere from 5-10 rounds depending on the caliber and gun while a semi-automatic, particularly one with double-stack magazines, can easily have a capacity of 10-20 rounds.
-Semi-autos can be loaded much faster than a revolver so long as pre-loaded spare magazines are available.
-Semi-autos are usually a more "closed" design and are thus better at keeping mud, sand, and other debris out of the action.
-Semi-automatics are usually slimmer and flatter which are attributes that make them more concealable for many people.
-Semi-automatics offer a better power-to-recoil ratio than a revolver. The reason for this is that the cycling of a semi-auto's action soaks up some of the recoil.
-Many semi-autos automatically re-cock themselves for a lighter SA follow-up shot. Some people find semi-autos easier to shoot because of this.
-Because of the lack of a cylinder, a semi-auto can be made with a lower bore axis than a revolver.
As I said in your other thread, I wouldn't really worry all that much about bore-axis as there are many other factors which influence your shooting to a much greater degree. For example, there are three basic styles of DA revolver which are commonly available: Colt (Armscor revolvers are based on the Colt Design), Ruger, and S&W (Taurus, Rossi, and Astra revolvers are all based on the S&W design). Given similar sized revolvers of all three designs (for example, a Colt Official Police, Ruger Security Six, and S&W Model 19), a Ruger typically sits the lowest in the hand followed by S&W with a Colt sitting the highest. Even so, not everyone is fit best by the lowest-sitting gun. I personally find a S&W to fit my hand the best while my dad is fit by a Ruger.
As far as follow-up shots go, barrel length, weight, and ammunition choice will play a much larger role than bore axis. Given guns of similar weight with identical ammunition, a gun with the longer barrel will typically allow faster follow-up shots than a gun with a shorter barrel. Likewise, given guns with equal barrel lengths and identical ammunition, a heavier gun will dampen recoil and allow faster follow-up shots than a lighter one. Finally, the more recoil the ammunition produces, the slower the follow up shots will be. Also, if you have two loadings with similar recoil in the same gun (a 125grn .357 Magnum and a 158grn .357 Magnum for example) the loading with the heavier bullet will typically produce more muzzle rise and thus slow follow-up shots.
I wouldn't worry too much about slow recovery times with a .357 Magnum. One of the nice things about this cartridge is that it is versatile and allows you to tailor your ammunition choices.
-Standard pressure .38 Special loadings have rather light recoil which most people can handle with little trouble.
-.38 Special +P ammo usually gives somewhat better performance than standard pressure ammo but still has moderate recoil in a medium or large frame revolver and usually isn't a problem unless the shooter is recoil sensitive.
-"Mid-range" or "medium velocity" .357 Magnum ammo like Remington 125grn Golden Saber, Speer 135grn Short Barrel Gold Dots, and the 110grn JHP loadings from Federal, Remington, and Winchester will give superior performance to most .38 +P loadings and are still quite manageable for most people from an all-steel medium or large frame revolver.
-Full power .357 Magnum ammo such as Winchester Silvertips, Federal Hydra-Shoks, or the 125 and 158grn SJHP loadings from Federal, Remington, and Winchester gives the best ballistic performance, but also has fairly heavy recoil. This ammunition is best for reasonably experienced shooters, particularly if a small, lightweight gun is used.
A revolver's strong points are as follows:
-A double-action revolver has one of the simplest manual-of-arms available. There are no manual safeties or magazine releases and the loaded/unloaded status can be verified by simply opening the cylinder and looking.
-A revolver is more reliable under certain conditions such as a contact-distance shot, a shot from underneath a cover garment, or a shot with an improper grip due to a weak or injured hand.
-Revolvers are more tolerant of a wider variety of ammunition including FMJ, LRN, SWC, HBWC, JHP, LSWCHP, and even shotshell loadings. Also, a revolver will not fail to cycle due to lighter than standard loadings. So long as there is enough pressure to get the bullet out of the barrel, a revolver can continue to function.
-A revolver can offer a better power-to-size ratio than a semi-automatic can. Few semi-autos can offer the power of a .357 Magnum in a gun the size of a small-frame, lightweight, five-shot revolver. Likewise, few semi-autos can offer the power of a .44 Magnum in a package the size and weight of a DA revolver in that caliber.
-Revolvers do not require magazines. All that is needed to use a revolver is the gun and a handful of cartridges. Also, a revolver is much faster to reload if forced to do so with loose cartridges.
-Revolvers typically have more rounded contours which make them easier for some people to conceal. My S&W J-Frame just looks like a generic lump in my pocket while my Walther PP (the closest size semi-auto I own) has more sharp angles that scream "gun".
-Because the gripframe of a revolver does not have to contain a magazine, there is a wider variety of aftermarket grips to tailor a revolver to the individual shooter's hands. I've found that putting Houge grips on my revolver can make a huge difference in the handling of the gun while I'm pretty much stuck with the grip shape on a semi-auto.
A semi-automatic has its own strong points too, they are as follows:
-A semi-automatic can be had in a much higher capacity package than a revolver. Revolver typically have a capacity of anywhere from 5-10 rounds depending on the caliber and gun while a semi-automatic, particularly one with double-stack magazines, can easily have a capacity of 10-20 rounds.
-Semi-autos can be loaded much faster than a revolver so long as pre-loaded spare magazines are available.
-Semi-autos are usually a more "closed" design and are thus better at keeping mud, sand, and other debris out of the action.
-Semi-automatics are usually slimmer and flatter which are attributes that make them more concealable for many people.
-Semi-automatics offer a better power-to-recoil ratio than a revolver. The reason for this is that the cycling of a semi-auto's action soaks up some of the recoil.
-Many semi-autos automatically re-cock themselves for a lighter SA follow-up shot. Some people find semi-autos easier to shoot because of this.
-Because of the lack of a cylinder, a semi-auto can be made with a lower bore axis than a revolver.
As I said in your other thread, I wouldn't really worry all that much about bore-axis as there are many other factors which influence your shooting to a much greater degree. For example, there are three basic styles of DA revolver which are commonly available: Colt (Armscor revolvers are based on the Colt Design), Ruger, and S&W (Taurus, Rossi, and Astra revolvers are all based on the S&W design). Given similar sized revolvers of all three designs (for example, a Colt Official Police, Ruger Security Six, and S&W Model 19), a Ruger typically sits the lowest in the hand followed by S&W with a Colt sitting the highest. Even so, not everyone is fit best by the lowest-sitting gun. I personally find a S&W to fit my hand the best while my dad is fit by a Ruger.
As far as follow-up shots go, barrel length, weight, and ammunition choice will play a much larger role than bore axis. Given guns of similar weight with identical ammunition, a gun with the longer barrel will typically allow faster follow-up shots than a gun with a shorter barrel. Likewise, given guns with equal barrel lengths and identical ammunition, a heavier gun will dampen recoil and allow faster follow-up shots than a lighter one. Finally, the more recoil the ammunition produces, the slower the follow up shots will be. Also, if you have two loadings with similar recoil in the same gun (a 125grn .357 Magnum and a 158grn .357 Magnum for example) the loading with the heavier bullet will typically produce more muzzle rise and thus slow follow-up shots.
I wouldn't worry too much about slow recovery times with a .357 Magnum. One of the nice things about this cartridge is that it is versatile and allows you to tailor your ammunition choices.
-Standard pressure .38 Special loadings have rather light recoil which most people can handle with little trouble.
-.38 Special +P ammo usually gives somewhat better performance than standard pressure ammo but still has moderate recoil in a medium or large frame revolver and usually isn't a problem unless the shooter is recoil sensitive.
-"Mid-range" or "medium velocity" .357 Magnum ammo like Remington 125grn Golden Saber, Speer 135grn Short Barrel Gold Dots, and the 110grn JHP loadings from Federal, Remington, and Winchester will give superior performance to most .38 +P loadings and are still quite manageable for most people from an all-steel medium or large frame revolver.
-Full power .357 Magnum ammo such as Winchester Silvertips, Federal Hydra-Shoks, or the 125 and 158grn SJHP loadings from Federal, Remington, and Winchester gives the best ballistic performance, but also has fairly heavy recoil. This ammunition is best for reasonably experienced shooters, particularly if a small, lightweight gun is used.
revolverrandy
New member
revolver
In my opinion,revolver for many reasons.You will most likely receive many opinions on this and many good points both ways.I guess any handgun would be better than no handgun for protection,but for me I want one that I know will not fail.one which will not jam,not fail to feed,fail to eject.If for whatever reason the round doesn't go bang when trigger is squeezed,with a revolver all you need to do is squeeze again.With a semi,you will have to work the slide and eject the dud round before you can squeeze off the next round.In my opinion ,when every split second may count for life or death,I'd rather have a revolver for reasons above.Just more reliable in my opinion.
In my opinion,revolver for many reasons.You will most likely receive many opinions on this and many good points both ways.I guess any handgun would be better than no handgun for protection,but for me I want one that I know will not fail.one which will not jam,not fail to feed,fail to eject.If for whatever reason the round doesn't go bang when trigger is squeezed,with a revolver all you need to do is squeeze again.With a semi,you will have to work the slide and eject the dud round before you can squeeze off the next round.In my opinion ,when every split second may count for life or death,I'd rather have a revolver for reasons above.Just more reliable in my opinion.
Legionnaire
New member
In my opinion, it comes down to how you plan to use the gun.
IF you plan to become a regular shooter, spending regular time practicing, maybe get some training, and plan to carry concealed ... I'd lean toward a semi-auto.
IF, on the other hand, you plan to shoot only occasionally, keep the gun primarily for home defense, and don't plan to carry ... I'd opt for a good revolver.
That is a bit over simplified, of course, as those who prefer revolvers for concealed carry will no doubt point out. While I think revolvers are the best choice for a beginner (and I'll support the recommendation of a 4-inch .357 shooting .38 special ammo) in all instances, many don't want to invest in multiple handguns. And if you plan to become proficient and want to carry concealed, I'd give the edge to a compact (not micro) semi-auto, like a Glock 19, Kahr P9, or the like.
Me? I like and carry both revolvers and semi-autos.
IF you plan to become a regular shooter, spending regular time practicing, maybe get some training, and plan to carry concealed ... I'd lean toward a semi-auto.
IF, on the other hand, you plan to shoot only occasionally, keep the gun primarily for home defense, and don't plan to carry ... I'd opt for a good revolver.
That is a bit over simplified, of course, as those who prefer revolvers for concealed carry will no doubt point out. While I think revolvers are the best choice for a beginner (and I'll support the recommendation of a 4-inch .357 shooting .38 special ammo) in all instances, many don't want to invest in multiple handguns. And if you plan to become proficient and want to carry concealed, I'd give the edge to a compact (not micro) semi-auto, like a Glock 19, Kahr P9, or the like.
Me? I like and carry both revolvers and semi-autos.
azredhawk44
Moderator
I'm going to offer a more radical departure than most here.
Forget the revolver.... unless you are an avid outdoorsman.
If your self defense concerns involve 2-legged critters, get a semiautomatic.
Once your shooting skills transition past the point where going to the public range is uninteresting and routine, start going to some pistol matches. IDPA, IPSC, USPSA, steel matches, whatever.
Just watch a match or two. Watch how fast those guys engage targets and knock them down, and how many rounds they go through on a single course of fire.
Even in an AWB-compliant, liberty-neutered state where you can only have 10 rounds... 10 rounds is a HECK of a lot better than 6, 7 or 8 in a revolver. And an 8 round revolver is a heavy cuss. You also get a single action trigger pull for each of those 10 rounds.
On my hip is a Springfield XD9 pistol. I have several aftermarket magazines made by Mec-Gar that holds 18 rounds of 9mm ammunition. Add in the one in the chamber, and I have 19 rounds of ammo I can shoot without reloading.
I do own a J-frame smith .38 snubby, too. As well as many other guns.
The XD9 is on my hip because it is inexpensive to practice with. It is powerful enough to do the job against all non-armored 2 legged threats I might reasonably face, in my day to day travels with a handgun.
If anything takes me out to where 4-legged critters are a concern (territorial bulls, burros, mustangs, bear or cougar), I have a magnum revolver that I take out of the safe and warm up on a few range and defensive practice outings so it becomes familiar again.
But the revolver really is a 19th century weapon. The inherent length of the cylinder compared to the necessary powder/volume by today's gunpowder sciences is anachronistic... unless shooting magnum cartridges.
Forget the revolver.... unless you are an avid outdoorsman.
If your self defense concerns involve 2-legged critters, get a semiautomatic.
Once your shooting skills transition past the point where going to the public range is uninteresting and routine, start going to some pistol matches. IDPA, IPSC, USPSA, steel matches, whatever.
Just watch a match or two. Watch how fast those guys engage targets and knock them down, and how many rounds they go through on a single course of fire.
Even in an AWB-compliant, liberty-neutered state where you can only have 10 rounds... 10 rounds is a HECK of a lot better than 6, 7 or 8 in a revolver. And an 8 round revolver is a heavy cuss. You also get a single action trigger pull for each of those 10 rounds.
On my hip is a Springfield XD9 pistol. I have several aftermarket magazines made by Mec-Gar that holds 18 rounds of 9mm ammunition. Add in the one in the chamber, and I have 19 rounds of ammo I can shoot without reloading.
I do own a J-frame smith .38 snubby, too. As well as many other guns.
The XD9 is on my hip because it is inexpensive to practice with. It is powerful enough to do the job against all non-armored 2 legged threats I might reasonably face, in my day to day travels with a handgun.
If anything takes me out to where 4-legged critters are a concern (territorial bulls, burros, mustangs, bear or cougar), I have a magnum revolver that I take out of the safe and warm up on a few range and defensive practice outings so it becomes familiar again.
But the revolver really is a 19th century weapon. The inherent length of the cylinder compared to the necessary powder/volume by today's gunpowder sciences is anachronistic... unless shooting magnum cartridges.