Good day all . I'm not in this sub section much if ever really . I've not owned a wheel gun in 20 years or so which is likely the reason . Well all that changed last week-ish when I bought a SS GP-100 with a 4.2" barrel . Although I'm more of a rifle guy I do enjoy shooting handguns . I reload and the main reason I bought the gun was because I hate picking up my 9mm and 45acp brass . Now that you have a bit of a back story lets move on to my questions .
First let me start by making clear the first time out I will only shoot factory ammo from the fully stock from factory/NIB condition . This is just to be sure "IF" anything goes wrong it won't be on me .
That now said I do like to tinker and already have plans for some modifications . Example I already have a new front sight and Wilson Combat trigger and hammer spring kit I plan to install .
I also plan to polish some of the metal on metal inner workings of the firearm . I found this video as a how to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqG5_2egsck If you know of a better video or there is something wrong in what he says please let me know .
Any other do's or don'ts are welcome . Like the spring kit comes with multiple springs for different tensions/pulls . I absolutely want the gun to ignite every primer and not have light strikes on the harder cup primers . Meaning I'm looking for the lightest trigger pull in double action while still having very firm hammer strikes . Also will changing the springs out effect the timing of the cylinder at all .
Any other help is welcome since I'm basically new to revolvers again .
Thanks Metal
P.S. FWIW it came down to the GP-100 and the 686 and the Ruger pointed better in my hand while the Smith clearly pointed upwards with my natural hold and felt like I had to really push the nose of the gun down to line up the sights .
First let me start by making clear the first time out I will only shoot factory ammo from the fully stock from factory/NIB condition . This is just to be sure "IF" anything goes wrong it won't be on me .
That now said I do like to tinker and already have plans for some modifications . Example I already have a new front sight and Wilson Combat trigger and hammer spring kit I plan to install .
I also plan to polish some of the metal on metal inner workings of the firearm . I found this video as a how to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqG5_2egsck If you know of a better video or there is something wrong in what he says please let me know .
Any other do's or don'ts are welcome . Like the spring kit comes with multiple springs for different tensions/pulls . I absolutely want the gun to ignite every primer and not have light strikes on the harder cup primers . Meaning I'm looking for the lightest trigger pull in double action while still having very firm hammer strikes . Also will changing the springs out effect the timing of the cylinder at all .
Any other help is welcome since I'm basically new to revolvers again .
Thanks Metal
P.S. FWIW it came down to the GP-100 and the 686 and the Ruger pointed better in my hand while the Smith clearly pointed upwards with my natural hold and felt like I had to really push the nose of the gun down to line up the sights .
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