Revolver philosophy and reliability vs. semiauto guns

Darker- I wasn't sure of your situation. I do clean my revolvers after 200-300 round session which consists of the bore and chambers, then I'll strip after maybe 2,000 rounds to clean every part. If you have screws backing out every 200-300 shots something is wrong. All things are manufactured to certain tolerances and normally all is well but sometimes you simply get a slightly too large tap and too small screw and there's a problem. I'd call the factory.
 
Could be worse...could be an old style single action that comes with its own screwdriver. I don't think this experience with the 9mm is enough to come on questioning the validity of the entire universe of revolvers. Just call it in.
 
IMHO, the main "defect" in an auto pistol is the magazine, and it is one of the (if not THE) major problem areas. Obviously, a revolver eliminates that area of concern (OK, OK, I know about the Dardick, but there are not many of those!), along with feeding and ejection problems. That alone should make a good revolver more reliable than an auto pistol.

That being said, I have had two handguns break in ways that were totally disabling, and not easily repairable. One was an S&W that broke its hammer stud, the other was a Colt in which the entire top of the hammer broke off. I have had problems with auto pistols, but nothing that could not be easily repaired if parts were available. (I don't consider a repair that includes removing a revolver sideplate to be an easy one for the average person.)

Jim
 
Model12win, im thinking that Darker Loaf wants a reliable wheelgun chambered in 9mm, don't think Ruger made a GP100 in 9mm, i know they made the -Six series in 9mm, but those are rare as hen's teeth, and even rarer seen on the used market.
 
I know that my particular gun isn't enough for me to write off the entire world of revolvers. In part I used that bombass to start the debate, but it DID vex me, and I wanted feedback on something that I wouldn't normally get much of a response on.

And yes, I really wanted a 9mm revolver. Barring that'd I'd want a 10mm/.40 S&W or a .45 ACP revolver. But 9mm is the best for me, because all the pistols I own are in 9mm. It makes things really simple and cheap.
 
There is little that is as vexing as a gun that doesn't work right.

I would like to point out that sweeping generalities about auto pistols covers a broader range of design variations than generalities about revolvers.

SO when I hear how reliable 9mm autos are, I think of my P.08 Luger, and snicker.

I am in the camp that says screws coming loose OCCASSIONALLY on a revolver is normal. Certain combinations of design and caliber seem more prone to this, but finding some screw slightly loose on a revolver is something that happens. It doesn't happen to every revolver, or to everyone who has revolvers, but it happens once in a while.

Screws that come loose regularly are another matter, and screws that come loose after the use of the proper Loctite mean that the problem is serious, and needs expert attention.

Your 9mm S&W having several screws come loose is a defective gun. It needs to go to S&W, and possibly more than once. Factories are people too, and sometimes need more than one "shot" at identifying and fixing what actually is the problem.

Finding two, three or more screws loose after firing a couple hundred rounds, every time you do it isn't normal, and isn't normal maint for revolvers.
 
Screws can, and do, back out. You can:

1. Complain about it.
2. Send the gun back to the manufacturer.
3. Fix it yourself.

I always choose No.3, because the fix is easy. The last gun I bought that had a loose screw problem right out of the box was a S&W Jerry Miculek Model 625 revolver - and it was the strain screw. The gun continually malfunctioned until I fixed it.

Buy a torque screwdriver and a bottle of PURPLE threadlocker liquid. Purple is made for small, fine thread screws and will keep them in place while still allowing them to be removed if needed.

Buy a copy of the Pocket Ref for finding torque values and you should be good to fix your screw problems.

The use of a torque screwdriver aids in ensuring that the screws are seated to their maximum tightness without over tightening. When putting in several screws on a flat surface (like a side plate) do not tighten a screw to its maximum value and then do the next one.

Think of the screws like lugs nuts on a wheel and sequentially tighten them in increments until they are all seated and relatively tight, and then go over them at the maximum torque value - and then do it one more time as you will find that seating the screws will inevitably leave one or more loose after you think you've got it to the maximum.
 
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That's some good feedback. I appreciate it. I've never heard of purple locktite. I'll have to check it out. That and maybe some new tools.
 
I will add two other suggestions learned from successful and unsuccessful attempts at fixing screw problems.

1. Always clean the screws, and if possible, the screw hole with alcohol prior to reseating the screw. I would assume most people are like me and wipe their guns down, lubricate guns, etc. In the process, oil will seep around the screw's head and work its way down the threads.

If you try and reseat the screw using a thread lock compound, you may find the locking compound will not cure fully because of the oil. I wipe the screws with alcohol and take a small artist's brush and clean out the screw hole with alcohol to make sure there is no oil to interfere with the locking compound.

2. Sometimes the screw threads get worn. You can usually figure this out if the screws are loose in the hole and wobble slightly when you push on them laterally (try to wiggle them) with the heads just proud of the surface. If the screw feels like it is loose, it's probably worn and needs replacement.

You can get replacement screws from Midway, Brownell's, etc. in both blued and stainless.
 
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