Reloading components Help

USAF RET,

My advice is to start loading for 1 cartridge first which ever is your favorite once you learn the basics you can start adding additional cartridges on from there.

Also take notes, write down what works and what doesn’t, keep targets and write down powder charges seating depths etc. Start with small batches. This will help you save time and mostly save components that are a premium right now

If you have the ability try to keep all your brass from the same manufacturer, this will help in consistency. Go slow you will make mistakes we all have and still do, be safe never ever start at maximum ever!



Will
 
Last edited:
There are short cuts ... like a trickler ... mine is a fired 30-06 case , put some of the power in it , hold over pan and roll back and forth between thumb and forefinger and the powder tricles out .
Click to expand...

This method does work, I have used it, and I strongly recommend AGAINST IT!!

The reason is because its not impossible to use a primed case as your trickler, and when the stars really line up against you, the trickler case gets put back into the loading block, gets a bullet put on, gets seated and disappears un-noticed into the ammo supply, UNTIL you pull the trigger!! :eek:

Buy a real powder trickler, they work well, and you'll never have to take your rifle to the gunsmith to get it open because of one. :o

You've already gotten a bunch of advice on making accurate ammunition, more will follow on, I'm sure.

You're just starting out, so I'm going to suggest that, for now, you don't try making the most accurate ammo possible, concentrate on making consistent functional ammo for the rifles you have, without chasing the lands, bumping the shoulder back a given amount, or other fine tuning tricks.

Take a look at the rifles you're going to be loading for, what are they? Bolt, semi, or?? Different guns have different restrictions when it comes to loading for them. Semi's wont tolerate some things a bolt action doesn't even notice. For some guns, every load in the book is not a suitable load.

Advanced reloaders who have had lots of experience can go way into the minutiae and forget how daunting that can be to a beginner without even realizing it.

you're just starting out, focus on the basic and the simple, and get those down before you go chasing the nth degree of accuracy. You might even find your needs and wants met before you go there...
 
cdoc42 said:
https://www.hornady.com/reloading/precision-measuring/precision-tools-and-gaug

Check this out. Once you resize the case, prime it, decide on power and charge, and get ready to seat the bullet, the question arises: how deep to seat the bullet? Don't fall into a common neophyte trap where one seats the bullet right to the cannelure. That is just the constriction manufactured into the bullet to stop mushrooming, thereby keeping the remaining base intact for continued penetration.

You are going to have to learn how to discover where every bullet you use for YOUR rifles touches the rifling lands/grooves, then seat those bullets in a series of sequential depths to achieve handloading accuracy that is unachievable with factory rounds.

That's where the "comparator" comes into play, and a good starting point is the one made by Hornady as shown in the link above.

Once again, everything you need to know in this respect is in Wootters book(s).

Just this morning I took a neighbor friend to the range with 5 rounds each for his 7mm Remington Mag of ELD-X 150gr, using H-1000 and H4831, seating the bullets at 0.02" from the lands. I started with 2 grains of each powder below maximum (altho as a starter you should go with the common recommendation of 10% below max). With luck he found one set giving him a 5-shot group at 100 yards of 0.966." That's experience guiding this experiment. You'll be looking into the "ladder" approach as well as any number of methods available to reach your maximum accuracy goal. Don't get overwhelmed or frustrated. Lengthy experimentation is the whole idea behind handloading in order to reach your goal.

Just keep in mind all the recipes in various manuals are good for the rifle used in those particular recipes, not YOUR rifle. Start at the low end of the recommended loads and slowly move up toward maximum charge and stop when you get desired groups. Remember, high velocity is not necessarily equivalent to the best accuracy.
Click to expand...
Great Advice. Thank you!
 
akinswi said:
USAF RET,

My advice is to start loading for 1 cartridge first which ever is your favorite once you learn the basics you can start adding additional cartridges on from there.

Also take notes, write down what works and what doesn’t, keep targets and write down powder charges seating depths etc. Start with small batches. This will help you save time and mostly save components that are a premium right now

If you have the ability try to keep all your brass from the same manufacturer, this will help in consistency. Go slow you will make mistakes we all have and still do, be safe never ever start at maximum ever!



Will
Click to expand...
Thanks. I am starting with 6.5 Grendel with a HOWA 1500 mini action. Been marking all boxes of brass for what rifle I am shooting them out of. Most of the bullets I have ordered are Nosler, so I have pulled down all of their reloading data.

Completely understand, when they mark "most accurate" load, that is with a different rifle, barrel length, etc. I have some 120 grain ballistic tips coming in and those are the ones I am starting with. Will move to my 6.5 Creedmoor next as I can use the same bullets. All of my brass for the Grendel is Hornady and the 6.5 CR is Norma.
 
44 AMP said:
This method does work, I have used it, and I strongly recommend AGAINST IT!!

The reason is because its not impossible to use a primed case as your trickler, and when the stars really line up against you, the trickler case gets put back into the loading block, gets a bullet put on, gets seated and disappears un-noticed into the ammo supply, UNTIL you pull the trigger!! :eek:

Buy a real powder trickler, they work well, and you'll never have to take your rifle to the gunsmith to get it open because of one. :o

You've already gotten a bunch of advice on making accurate ammunition, more will follow on, I'm sure.

You're just starting out, so I'm going to suggest that, for now, you don't try making the most accurate ammo possible, concentrate on making consistent functional ammo for the rifles you have, without chasing the lands, bumping the shoulder back a given amount, or other fine tuning tricks.

Take a look at the rifles you're going to be loading for, what are they? Bolt, semi, or?? Different guns have different restrictions when it comes to loading for them. Semi's wont tolerate some things a bolt action doesn't even notice. For some guns, every load in the book is not a suitable load.

Advanced reloaders who have had lots of experience can go way into the minutiae and forget how daunting that can be to a beginner without even realizing it.

you're just starting out, focus on the basic and the simple, and get those down before you go chasing the nth degree of accuracy. You might even find your needs and wants met before you go there...
Click to expand...
Great advice. Yes, I am going by the book on everything. I have an AR-10 and a Christensen in 308. Keeping my brass separated for those as I have read about not mixing them. Use the brass you shot in the rifle.

Again, much appreciated for all the advice. I will be just loading for decent accuracy with good hunting bullets, starting out withe the min and working my way up.
 
First read the manual. It will tell you what is missing.

Second, find a mentor. If you think I can help, PM me.


Three, always improve your process. You really need to think about error proofing. How will you get the same powder charge in each case with relative speed?

For a case trimmer, I always think powered although, I do trim precision rifle on the Wilson without power. I trim semiauto rifle with the TrimIt II. Semi-auto pistol never needs trimmed. Revolver generally never needs trimmed, except in rare cases. Consider the Lee Quick Trim, Lee drill type trimmer or Lyman kit until you know exactly what you want that might cost more.

For chamfer/deburr, get the tools that fit in your drill. Here is the adapter. https://kmshooting.com/product/1-4-hex-drive-adapter-for-8-32/

For cleaning, a simple dry tumbler works great….and corn cob off Amazon.

Consider going to case wax…it is easiest for bottleneck rifle. Consider Hornady spray case lube for all other.
 
Nathan said:
First read the manual. It will tell you what is missing.

Second, find a mentor. If you think I can help, PM me.


Three, always improve your process. You really need to think about error proofing. How will you get the same powder charge in each case with relative speed?

For a case trimmer, I always think powered although, I do trim precision rifle on the Wilson without power. I trim semiauto rifle with the TrimIt II. Semi-auto pistol never needs trimmed. Revolver generally never needs trimmed, except in rare cases. Consider the Lee Quick Trim, Lee drill type trimmer or Lyman kit until you know exactly what you want that might cost more.

For chamfer/deburr, get the tools that fit in your drill. Here is the adapter. https://kmshooting.com/product/1-4-hex-drive-adapter-for-8-32/

For cleaning, a simple dry tumbler works great….and corn cob off Amazon.

Consider going to case wax…it is easiest for bottleneck rifle. Consider Hornady spray case lube for all other.
Click to expand...
Thanks Nathan, I will definitely take a look and message you if I need some help. I will take all the mentoring I can get,
 
More questions. I am building up supplies and components and plan on starting reloading after hunting season this year. I was watching some Nosler reloading videos and the guy said if you are starting, it is good to get a universal powder that is good for multiple calibers. He also mention getting powders that are "temperature insensitive." I am reloading for 6.5G, 6.5CR, 308WIN and 270WIN. Any suggestions for one stop shopping for powder and primers to get started?
 
Did the video offer an example of a "universal" powder? Lots of luck.

I tried Hybrid-V 100 in my 6.5 Creedmoor but it doesn't come close to H-4350.

H-4350 (or IMR) won't touch H-4831 in my .270, and H-1000 does wonders in my 25-06.

Rifles often are like women, each has a particular attraction to its best mate without any explanation other than experimentation.

Primers as well cannot be reduced to one choice. Some powders (slow) need a magnum primer to ensure adequate ignition.
 
The only way to determine which powder will work for multiple calibers is to buy lots of different powders to experiment with. Thus you wind up with a bunch of powders anyway so might as well just find optimal powder for each rifle and keep it in stock. Thus making the suggestion silly and non sensible. I’ve been down this road, and eventually found the best powders that worked then stocked up on them with 8# jugs.
 
jetinteriorguy said:
The only way to determine which powder will work for multiple calibers is to buy lots of different powders to experiment with. Thus you wind up with a bunch of powders anyway so might as well just find optimal powder for each rifle and keep it in stock. Thus making the suggestion silly and non sensible. I’ve been down this road, and eventually found the best powders that worked then stocked up on them with 8# jugs.
Click to expand...
+1 what Jet said, why most of us have 30 different powders, then will start mainly using one across multiple firearms, Varget comes to mind so dang versatile.
 
akinswi said:
+1 what Jet said, why most of us have 30 different powders, then will start mainly using one across multiple firearms, Varget comes to mind so dang versatile.
Click to expand...
Thanks much. This was straight from Nosler, so wanted to confirm with the folks on the ground. Much appreciated.
 
When I started reloading rifle cartridges at least 3 decades and many, many moons ago, I looked for that theoretical one powder to do almost everything. I settled on an 8 lb. jug of A-2460 (equivalent, Data Powder 2230C, was not available for long).
Now, years later, I did use it all up in 223 and 308, in mostly LC brass, and recently bought one pound new. Along the way I picked up a jug of WC844 (surplus 5.56), to have used a lot of that, too.
I do now own 30+ powders, across pistol, shotgun, rifle and magnum rifle types. Never regretted A2460 or WC-844 (burns HOT though). Those are medium rifle speed rifle powders, usable in most centerfire rifle cartridges.
 
One thing you could do. List all the calibers you load for, then consult load data for all these calibers in several load charts and look for powders that are common to these calibers across the charts. This might give you a place to start.
 
I was watching some Nosler reloading videos and the guy said if you are starting, it is good to get a universal powder that is good for multiple calibers. He also mention getting powders that are "temperature insensitive." I am reloading for 6.5G, 6.5CR, 308WIN and 270WIN. Any suggestions for one stop shopping for powder and primers to get started?
Click to expand...

There is no "universal" powder that works equally well in everything. Also, understand the guys with 30+ different powders are looking for what powder(s) work BEST getting them what they want, and not what powder work acceptably well.

Also be aware that the loading data does not contain every powder that can be used in a particular cartridge. Sometimes, a powder is not listed simply because it was not suitable. Sometimes a powder is not listed because they didn't have any on hand when they did the testing....sometimes a powder is not listed simply due to time, cost, and space considerations....

I don't know about the 6.5s you're loading for, my 6.5s are the Swede, but I know the .308 very well, and the .270 also, and there are probably a dozen or more powders that are suitable. Which one is "best"? is something determined by what you consider "best" and what your rifle, with your loads delivers.

I use IMR 4895 to duplicate the military loads in my WWI /WWII milsurp rifles, 06, .303 Brit, 7.62x54R, 7.7 Jap and 8mm Mauser. Works great.

I use a different powder in my .308 loads, not because 4895 won't work (it certainly will) but because I want to, and it "saves" the 4895 for other rounds.

Some don't use the IMR stick powders because they don't like the way they meter through a powder measure, and use a ball or flake type powder instead.

Look at the data for the rounds you're going to load and you'll certainly see a powder or three listed for all of them. Hopefully something you can get in today's shortage plagued market. Get some, and try some loads. That gives you something to use as a baseline for future decisions.
 
44 AMP said:
There is no "universal" powder that works equally well in everything. Also, understand the guys with 30+ different powders are looking for what powder(s) work BEST getting them what they want, and not what powder work acceptably well.

Also be aware that the loading data does not contain every powder that can be used in a particular cartridge. Sometimes, a powder is not listed simply because it was not suitable. Sometimes a powder is not listed because they didn't have any on hand when they did the testing....sometimes a powder is not listed simply due to time, cost, and space considerations....

I don't know about the 6.5s you're loading for, my 6.5s are the Swede, but I know the .308 very well, and the .270 also, and there are probably a dozen or more powders that are suitable. Which one is "best"? is something determined by what you consider "best" and what your rifle, with your loads delivers.

I use IMR 4895 to duplicate the military loads in my WWI /WWII milsurp rifles, 06, .303 Brit, 7.62x54R, 7.7 Jap and 8mm Mauser. Works great.

I use a different powder in my .308 loads, not because 4895 won't work (it certainly will) but because I want to, and it "saves" the 4895 for other rounds.

Some don't use the IMR stick powders because they don't like the way they meter through a powder measure, and use a ball or flake type powder instead.

Look at the data for the rounds you're going to load and you'll certainly see a powder or three listed for all of them. Hopefully something you can get in today's shortage plagued market. Get some, and try some loads. That gives you something to use as a baseline for future decisions.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your input. Still need to get a case trimmer and loading table set up. Spending time reading up and looking for availability of powder and primers. Of course, also trying to time with paydays as well. Haha.
 
USAF Ret said:
More questions. I am building up supplies and components and plan on starting reloading after hunting season this year. I was watching some Nosler reloading videos and the guy said if you are starting, it is good to get a universal powder that is good for multiple calibers. He also mention getting powders that are "temperature insensitive." I am reloading for 6.5G, 6.5CR, 308WIN and 270WIN. Any suggestions for one stop shopping for powder and primers to get started?
Click to expand...
Of the 4 cartridges you list ... Varget can be utilized in all of them .
I have seen some accuracy test with 308 Winchester and Berger Bullets and Varget was the hands down champ .
Data for Varget is shown in for all four rounds you have listed in the Hornady Reloading Manual #8 and I'm sure other sources have Varget data . It may not be the best in the 6.5 rounds but data is listed and velocities are respectable .

Do you see why I advised having multiple sources of loading data ... it's never found in one book ... just too many different bullets and powders and combinations of each .
Good Luck and Load Safe,
Gary
 
gwpercle said:
Of the 4 cartridges you list ... Varget can be utilized in all of them .
I have seen some accuracy test with 308 Winchester and Berger Bullets and Varget was the hands down champ .
Data for Varget is shown in for all four rounds you have listed in the Hornady Reloading Manual #8 and I'm sure other sources have Varget data . It may not be the best in the 6.5 rounds but data is listed and velocities are respectable .

Do you see why I advised having multiple sources of loading data ... it's never found in one book ... just too many different bullets and powders and combinations of each .
Good Luck and Load Safe,
Gary
Click to expand...
Yeah, same I have seen with Varget. Not exactly nominal in the 6.5.

Have a couple of manuals and am pulling a lot from online as well. Thanks.
 
IMR4064, while not the ideal powder for most of the OP’s calibers, will work fine, though I don’t know about the Grendel.
 
I am doing research. Would like to at least get started with one powder that is optimal in a couple of calibers and I will go from there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top