If youre buying one of those that requires you to break them in, you over looked the ones that dont need it.It is not if a revolver is reliable, the question should be, which is more reliable. Consider which (autos or revolvers), it is recommended by their manufactures to fire 200 or more rounds to "break it in", (A.K.A., make sure it functions), before coming to any conclusions. Posters here seem to have ignored my first post to that effect. Lets hear some insightful counter to my observation, if you please. What have I overlooked?
Originally posted by AK103K
If the round jumps on the starboard side of the frame, the cylinder is not coming open until you drive the bullet back into the case. Take a loose bullet and a fired case and give it a try, you'll see what Im referring to.
Consider which (autos or revolvers), it is recommended by their manufactures to fire 200 or more rounds to "break it in", (A.K.A., make sure it functions)
The bullet in your case must have just barely passed the front of the cylinder, which I could see might allow you to do as youre saying.When I experienced crimp jump on my 629, it was the chamber directly to the right (as viewed from the back of the gun) of the cylinder, yet I was still able to open the gun without driving the bullet back it.
Originally posted by AK103K
The bullet in your case must have just barely passed the front of the cylinder, which I could see might allow you to do as youre saying.
The times Ive experienced it, the bullets were far enough out, that they would not clear the frame. There was no opening the cylinder without the hammer and drift.
Consider which (autos or revolvers), it is recommended by their manufactures to fire 200 or more rounds to "break it in", (A.K.A., make sure it functions), before coming to any conclusions. Posters here seem to have ignored my first post to that effect. Lets hear some insightful counter to my observation, if you please. What have I overlooked?
Look at all the parts on a revolver, parts that can potentially break...