refinishing a 870 express?

Thanks for posting that link Mehavey, very informative.
I use Hornady one shot exclusively when sizing cases but have never thought it was a very good lubricant, I've stuck several cases in dies using it. It seems to work great to lubricate the linkages on my reloading machines. It's a waxed based lubricant?
 
Hornday has two "One-Shots"
They are not [:eek:] the same.

The BLACK can is what you want to both spray clean fouling (hexane solvent) and residual drylube/protectant.
"Gun Cleaner, Lube, One Shot®"... Magic stuff for gas shotguns.

Don't mistake Case Lube [RED Can] as they are totally different.




postscript: I am not a fan the Hornady Case lube at all.
Stick with RCBS case lube as failsafe
 
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What you've done is good to go in my opinion. Keep it oiled or waxed (paste floor wax works great) and use it up is my suggestion. Probably going to take a grandson or two to take care of the use it up part though.

Love an 870. I have a 12 Gauge Wingmaster and an inherited and surely loved and used 12 Gauge Express.

Nice gun, use it in good health!
 
Surface rust.

Hit w/coconut oil and a nickel.

I don't use WD-40 on guns. Why? It leaves a film that can build up and attract dust. That same film if left unattended can also disable the firearm. Rem got sued by a fellow who practiced poor muzzle control and shot himself in his foot while climbing into the truck. Turns out that he used WD-40 to spray down his 700 after cleaning it. He never took the 700 to a smith for a thorough cleaning and inspection. The WD-40 built up a film that allowed the striker to slip and the gun to discharge.
 
Gary- WD 40 contains mineral oil, the same mineral oil in 95% of the "gun oils." It doesn't "build up a film," any more than any oil.
 
WD-40 -- if not wiped off/blown off -- effectively dries over time to become "varnish" spelled sideways
If repeatedly sprayed on to "loosen things up". . . if becomes more varnish.

Used correctly -- to displace moisture and then wiped off -- it's great.
Sprayed on and left ...... Bad JuJu.

Don't spray it into/onto anything you can't wipe off well -- like the guts of trigger groups.
:eek:
 
I have been using WD 40 for 50 years. It doesn't "gum up"or "varnish" any more than any other oil. I have a small squirt bottle that I put WD 40 in probably 10 years ago. What is left in the bottle is just light oil.
I use WD 40 on my bass strings, in my cutlery shop, on my guns, on my knives. I would think I would have known by now if it "varnishes."
 
Well, then we have different end-results over those 50 years (I started using it
in 1970 when apprenticing to a gunsmith ...and we used it for everything.)

But I also found that articles left coated and dried..... sticky sticky sticky.

It's good for what what's intended. Just don't spray on and leave to dry.
Worse... don't spray on repeatedly to free up... and leave to dry again.
 
WL wrote:
refinishing a 870 express?
My wife gave me a 20 gauge 870 express that had belonged to her uncle. It was kept in a soft case that drew moisture and the gun rusted. Is it worth it to refinish an Express? I don't know how much it would cost but this is a 200 to 300 dollar gun at best.

Most of the rust is on the barrel. There is one bad spot on the magazine tube. and the mag cap.
Click to expand...
A Rem 870 Express is not a fancy gun, it is a tool. It will get the job done if maintained.

I see some different routes for getting a decent-looking shotgun at the end of the deal without spending more on the finish than the gun is worth.

First step for all routes is to clean up the rust.

CLEAN IT UP & STOP
Do as you have done, lightly steel wool (0000) or brass brush with penetrating oil to remove rust. Live with the blemishes and oil/wax it up for future use. Nothing wrong with a hunting gun/tool that has use wear on it.

PAINT IT
Camo, like has been suggested or a simpler scheme. I am not fond of camo on a gun, but that is a taste issue. That should protect the metal. Paint has been used as a finish going way back, it is legit. Maybe also paint the furniture.

The paint you use can be as mundane as Wal-mart rattle-can (glossy vs flat--your call), to spray-on epoxies up through spray & bake finishes.

Some ideas:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ep-coloring/paint-finishes/index.htm?psize=96
Aluma-hyde, Gun Kote,

COLD-BLUE & SUCH
I have seen this done well. Not going to look heir-loom quality despite the best technique on a Rem Express, but should make it look better and give some protection.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/index.htm
Oxpho Blue: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ld-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue--prod1072.aspx

HOME PARKERIZING
A bit more involved, but I have seen great results on handguns. A long gun bbl might be a bit hard to do, but it is not like you'd be ruining a valuable collector piece or heirloom. Do your homework if you go this route.







Do as you have already done
 
4V50 Gary said:
Surface rust.

Hit w/coconut oil and a nickel.

I don't use WD-40 on guns. Why? It leaves a film that can build up and attract dust. That same film if left unattended can also disable the firearm. Rem got sued by a fellow who practiced poor muzzle control and shot himself in his foot while climbing into the truck. Turns out that he used WD-40 to spray down his 700 after cleaning it. He never took the 700 to a smith for a thorough cleaning and inspection. The WD-40 built up a film that allowed the striker to slip and the gun to discharge.
Click to expand...
No oil or cleaner ATTRACTS dust.... please stop perpetuating this myth. It can build up and get thick and turn to goo. Dust will get trapped by it but NOT attract it. WD-40 is fine to use on guns, especially during cleanup, provided you follow up with a cleaner then gun oil....
 
Thanks for the lecture guys.

I know what Remington told me as well as what I was taught at gunsmithing school.

Do as you please.
 
Being that the finish was pretty rough when new, I'd take off the wood which looks fine and after cleaning the rust degreas/prep the surface to take paint. I'd spray paint it or find a bake on finish. There are some polycoat epoxy type finishes that will look better than factory and protect the gun well.
 
Probably.
I have been displacing water with WD 40 for 50 years.
I use it on extremely expensive knives after the ultrasonic cleaner, and on gun parts after plating them.
 
I know it's moved on from the 870, but my vote on that is blast it and spray it with Gunkote. I've done a number of hand guns and long guns with it and if it's done right is tough stuff. As far as WD40, on center fire guns it seems like the kiss of death, but BP guns it seems to be the right thing to hose off a wet gun after you clean it in the sink. I bought my first cap and ball revolver in 94. I have been using WD40 after I wash in the sink to displace water in it and have had zero issues with gumming up, taking off bluing or anything. After I hose it down with WD40 i shake off, or blow off the excess and oil/clean as I would a center fire handgun. I have not had any rust or problems doing this for any of my guns.
 
Houston, we have a problem....

IMG-5920.jpg


That's (admittedly old) WD-40 floating on TOP of food-colored water.
Displacing the water, it ain't.



But I'll go get a new can and retry the (rather basic) experiment/
 
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