Purchasing Cap n Ball revolver, need advice!

J

JarYetz

New member
Hey folks! I'm in the market for a cap n ball, but I'd like to have a few questions answered by people that use them.

First of all, I'm looking to buy it at Cabela's...they sell Pietta's at the best prices I can find, and I am on somewhat of a budget. I would like an 1858 Remington, .44 cal.

What barrel length? They have an 8'' and 5 1/2'' "police" model. How large of a difference is made on accuracy?

I want to use it for target shooting, and also I'd like to carry it when I go camping.

Which brings me to another question: Holsters.

I'd like a holster that would allow me to try some of those fast draw techniques...but it will also need to be secure enough to stick with me when I'm out hiking around. I have this (probably unfounded) fear that an unstrapped firearm is going to pop right out of the holster if I do anything more than walk.

Does anyone have any rig suggestions that are decent, but would fit within a budget? I wouldn't want to spend much over $100 on a holster rig at this time.

I'm going to go back to scouring these great forums for as much info as I can find, and I greatly appreciate any information and advice anyone can give me on the aforementioned topics! Thanks!
 
Get a steel frame. I much prefer the 8 inch over the 5 1/2 but it's what you prefer that matters. You get a longer sight plane that makes it seem to be more accurate and you get just a smidge more velocity with the longer barrel. A fast draw holster is very stiff and the gun is a loose fit. You're not going to find that in a cheap holster.
 
the steel frame Remington 1858 in 44 cal. is the best BP C-B pistol for a beginner, on the market- and it always has been- due to its design. It whipped the Colts for reliability back in the day 1800's, and continues to do so today- it is so good that Colt copied it to make the 1873 Peacemaker, and Ruger copied/modified it w/adjustable sights, to make the Ruger Old Army. The best compliment is when someone else copies- what more can I say.

Get the steel Rem 58 and never look back- you're getting the best bang for your buck. I've been using/abusing an 1858 Remington imported by Navy Arms and the gun refuses to break after 25 years, even with full cylinders of pyrodex and black- full compressed loads don't phase it- fill the cylinders topped off with 3F, pack a ball in, and shoot. Deadly powerful (over 1000 fps) and accurate- with as much knock down power as any modern factory 45 ACP semiauto round. GOOD CHOICE. ;)

I'd get a 7-1/2" to 8" barrel.
 
I want to use it for target shooting, and also I'd like to carry it when I go camping.
Click to expand...

The Pietta target model has an adjustable rear sight while the Pietta fixed sight model doesn't allow for easy windage adjustments.
That's opposed to Uberti's 1858 that has a dovetailed front sight to help make easier windage adjustments.
However the Pietta target model does have a high ramp front sight which may not be as good for fast draw from a holster.
While I opted for the target model, there are differences for each to consider based on their personal preferences as well as cost considerations.
 
I'm going to go for the non-target model based on price, asthetics (more historic), and the fact that I hopefully won't mind getting a "feel" for the aim of my particular gun.
 
I will throw in my preference for carrying and drawing, it would be the 5 1/2" barrel. My Remmies are all 8" barrels. I use them for targets and training. But when I want to carrying in the woods while I hike, it is the 5 1/2" .44 Colt that I take with me. It is easier to lug around. That is my preference. And others will have theirs.

The best bet is to go to a show or gun dealer and get the feel of both sizes. And buy the one that feels the best in your hands. Then you can get the holster to fit. Or do like all the rest of us...buy more than one. :D:D:D
 
Newer Pietta's have very tall front sights so you can file them down to fit your favorite load but don't file til you get a favorite load. Most shoot pretty close to POA laterally.
 
DONT DO IT.

I can see it now your going to be crying the blues a year from now when you have more cap and ball revolvers than you do fingers.

lol

Its a very addictive hobby. Very addictive. SOO SOOO FUN too
 
I really don't know at the moment how many I got...but I more than a few. Sold one fancy unfired engraved Nickel Rem & my Stainless Euroarms, and a pair a Colts in Nickel...I still got enough plus bought a STARR SAA .44 1863.
StarrBlue.jpg
 
i bought a 1858 uberti remington about 5 months ago and Im glad I purchased that model of black powder handgun because it is so convenient to be able to switch out cylinders or pour the powder in the cylinders with them out of the gun.I fired about 100 shots out of mine today and not a single misfire and fires at point of aim.35 grains fffg black powder corn meal as filler .454 ball topped off with crisco.if I had the extra money Id get that 1858 cabelas is offering!Piettas are nice because buying an extra cylinder is cheaper.
 
Ignore the mush comment of the last post, that is going towards another thread that has pretty much been trashed.

What you will want to do is familiarize yourself with the internal workings of your gun when you get it.

Why? Because B-P guns are notorious for the need to clean. When you are done shooting, you have to clean. You cannot put it off very long or the gun will start to rust. Cleaning the same day is highly advisable. Sooner or later, you will have to take it apart to get at the little parts to clean them, too.

A clean B-P replica piece should last as long as the real ones have if you maintain it.

Next, get (Borrow) a micrometer to get the diameter of the cylinder bores. You will need to do this so that you can get the right diameter balls to match. The correct ball will shave off a small ring of lead all around when you load. You will have to use soft lead for loading. Shaving the ring means you have less of a chance of the fire from the one chamber firing to get past the bullet and give you a chain fire.

Also, you will need wads or bore butter.

In fact, there are probably some stickies around here that let you in on all the fascinating stuff you will need and need to know when you get into this highly addictive arena.

The Doc is out now. :cool:
 
All I see is a sticky for Part 2 of a "Cap and Ball" purchase. I too am knew to the Cap and Ball purchase and have a couple questions. If the wads are used does the butter need to be used? Is the Butter or Grease a new thing or have they been sealing the chambers since day one. How common is a "Chain" firing?
 
You don't really need a set of mikes to determine the proper ball size - the number of choices is pretty limited, so get the one in the middle and try it; if it doesn't work, you can go either way with minimal outlay of cash. Certainly less than buying a set of mikes. Which really should be vernier calipers, not a micrometer.

The best insurance against a chain fire is proper fitting balls and caps. The wad/grease is simply extra insurance, and it's real use is in keeping fouling soft so you can shoot longer without fouling the action. Use either grease or lubed wads; it's a personal choice. I find grease messy and wads effective. Others have different opinions.

There is no consensus on whether grease or wads were actually used in the 1860's. People will argue both sides for days, each certain they are correct.

Chain fires are rare events, especially if one takes care to use good equipment (proper sized balls and caps). I've never had one and only personally seen two in over 30 years of shooting black powder.
 
What Mykeal said, plus;

I personally have had one chainfire in a lot of years of shooting C&Bs, and only seen a few - less than 10. An uncapped chamber caused the one I had - got distracted at the loading table at a match. The ones I have seen were prety much undetermined; but, the shooter changed ball size and caps & they quit.
 
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