Pillar bedding

I have found a good number of areas that have needed a little tough-up work to make thing fit which I find as a good thing. Can remove material but again we can't put it back.

Also finding that these areas that need touch up it really is a very small amount of material so there is a lot of checking and rechecking. I had read some real horror stories about some of these pcs.

I really also thought that walnut wood was much harder and harder to sand.

I was rather disappointed by how far the inletting was off for the mag-well bottom metal and the receiver screw holes were. Otherwise I am more than pleased and excited about doing this stock.

Yes this is my very first attempt at a stock, so going very slowly, asking a lot of questions, taking time to think about what I am doing and the best way that I can approach this. Not certain it will turn out perfect but hoping it to be more than just functional. This is a learning experience I will keep forever however it turns out!
 
Isn't that the truth! I really do appreciate everyone's input and assistance. I have come across may instances already that were not quite clearly explained by either me or the respondent.

Things that are much easier explained or visualized in person with the parts in hand.
 
This afternoon I was able to get the pillars installed on this Richards Microfit stock. Used long studs to act as centering pins to keep everything aligned; the bottom metal, pillars, action.

After about 3 hours I pulled everything apart to make sure nothing stuck that wasn't supposed to. After a little clean up I reinstalled everything with the actual action screws and all came together beautifully!
 
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That is lightning fast cure time!!! I made bedding screws myself. Of course the German’s couldn’t just use standard 1/4”-20 threads for the action screws, but 1/4”-22!! That just needed a few minutes at the lathe turning some custom threads. Hex cuts on the other end of the bars to allow me to use a 3/16” socket to snug them into place. Covered the sticks in release compound. Snugged them down against the action, and bedded the pillar. It’s been a raving success, but the difference between yours and mine, KMW, is that my bedding compound suggested an overnight cure.
 
I used Devcon 10110 and let it sit for 20- 24 hours before I broke it apart then let it sit another 24 before fitting the action back into the stock
 
This is hilarious! Where did I ever mention CURE TIME? Never.

But after 3 hours the epoxy is set up and hardened to where it takes more than I've got to break the bond. The directions clearly state this and that full structural cure time is 18-24 hours.

It has now been 25 hours and everything has fully cured and is firmly in place exactly where it is meant to be..

Recently I did a Boyds stock with this same epoxy, The epoxy displaced the modeling clay I used inside the receiver and after 24 cure the epoxy that had oozed up inside the receiver was a genuine pain to remove.

Not suggesting anyone to do it this way, just relaying what I did. Whatever you may think of this it did work excellently.
 
KWM,

I have a Boyd’s stock I will be needing to glass bed soon. Do you have any further tips or advice on how to avoid the issue of the bedding epoxy from oozing up into the action?? PM me if you do. Any help appreciated.
 
Not much on what to use but I can tell you to avoid the Crayola Modeling Clay. I believe it to be too dry and does not hold in place very well. Or at least inside large areas such as the opening for the magazine box.

For the centering pin I used a 1/4-28 SS bolt that is not threaded all the way up and then cut the head off so I could screw them into the receiver and then slide the epoxy stock down over them. After that I use stretchy electrical tape to hold in place. Also wrapped masking tape built up around the barrel to help keep it centered in the stock.
 
Play-Doh works very well also and can be had at Walmart. Unfortunately for me our store was out at the time.
 
Spent the morning prepping the stock for bedding and now have it on the table barrel down curing and yes this will now set until tomorrow afternoon before I break it apart.

This is my third bedding exercise and I must say this one was a whole lot less messy than the first one, or the second one!

The epoxy I am using is Gray Marine-tex and the 2oz repair kit contains about enough to do 2 jobs..
 
Just finished breaking it apart and it looks like the best one yet! Have two small low spots but they are high on the sides so I am not going to worry about those. The rear screw area I also built up some extra epoxy around the exposed pillar and it also looks wonderful.

This time I was able to remove the whole action very easily and there is not a lot of excessive epoxy to clean up and also this time there was no displacement of the clay and everything on the action and barrel cleaned up w/o a hitch!

After clean up I dropped the action back into the stock, placed all the bottom metal and the action screws dropped right into place! No struggle at all.

Now it is on to sanding and finishing this stock.
 
So, I am assuming here, but bear with me. Did you do the old “bedding job check”?? Where you stand the rifle up on its buttstock, grip it around the barrel and forend, loosen the action screws and see if there is any movement when you let go??

Pictures would be handy, but good work man!! Glad to hear this one worked out better for you!!
 
Sorry never heard that trick. But I did do the one to bump the butt and seat the action Before curing.

Again sorry that I don't have a photo hosting site to use but I can send you a link to another site that has many of them that I have posted.
 
you don't need a photo hosting site. Just resize down to around 800 to 1000 pixels or so wide using Windows paint or other photo program. 2nd box below where you type in th emessage there is a box that say attach files. Click the manage attachments and a pop up will appear,select up to three files from your hard drive, then click the upload button to the right
 
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