Painting a gun?
- Thread starter The Great Mahoo
- Start date
The Great Mahoo
New member
Thanks for the input. I think I'm just going to go with some Dark Earth or Foliage Green furniture to help break up the all-black rifle. I need to replace the front guards with a railed system anyway.
I would never paint a firearm because I don't think it would ever give me an advantage while hunting, especially if i'm already decked out from head to toe in camo.
Full camo actually makes the black gun stand out even more. There's plenty of pics on websites like Soldier Systems with black guns floating over the ground like magic.
Motion attracts the eye, a large black object is unnatural. Pro's camo their gun because it's the first thing an eye sees, we carry them right out in front. Paint and camo on guns goes a long way before the AR15, and even affected the originals, which were painted OD.
Later on, Colt made them black, because it was easy to get a consistent finish. And pro's didn't care, they were getting camo'd regardless.
It's one way to tell who's really serious about what they shoot.
Full camo actually makes the black gun stand out even more. There's plenty of pics on websites like Soldier Systems with black guns floating over the ground like magic.
Motion attracts the eye, a large black object is unnatural. Pro's camo their gun because it's the first thing an eye sees, we carry them right out in front. Paint and camo on guns goes a long way before the AR15, and even affected the originals, which were painted OD.
Later on, Colt made them black, because it was easy to get a consistent finish. And pro's didn't care, they were getting camo'd regardless.
It's one way to tell who's really serious about what they shoot.
AIRBRUSH
A number of years ago, when I was a busy airbrush artist, my buddy had an AR variant and was really turned off by the "black gun syndrome". He asked me if I could paint it. "Well, sure" says I. He ended up with the only known Exhibition Grade Burl Walnut AR at the range. All in paint, of course. He absolutely loved it. It was a lot of fun, to boot. Yeah, there was a lot of prep work involved. That was OK. This was a fun project and I was feeling bored that Winter. Liquitex paints buried in clear. Tough as nails. So, if you're handy with an airbrush, or know someone who is, give it a try. It would have been fairly expensive though. If I had been charging for that job it would have run in the ballpark of $1000. Big ballpark, I know. But if you know of any "aspiring" airbrush artists, you might ask.
A number of years ago, when I was a busy airbrush artist, my buddy had an AR variant and was really turned off by the "black gun syndrome". He asked me if I could paint it. "Well, sure" says I. He ended up with the only known Exhibition Grade Burl Walnut AR at the range. All in paint, of course. He absolutely loved it. It was a lot of fun, to boot. Yeah, there was a lot of prep work involved. That was OK. This was a fun project and I was feeling bored that Winter. Liquitex paints buried in clear. Tough as nails. So, if you're handy with an airbrush, or know someone who is, give it a try. It would have been fairly expensive though. If I had been charging for that job it would have run in the ballpark of $1000. Big ballpark, I know. But if you know of any "aspiring" airbrush artists, you might ask.
Not the best pic here, but its still pretty obvious as to the difference.
Ive also been told by a couple of people now that painting a gun will make it stand out to night vision like a beacon, where the black gun wont. I dont know where they came up with that, but Ive never noticed it to be the case. I took this as best I could with my camera up against my old Gen 1 NV and while not the greatest, it still gives an idea as to whats really going on. Thats also with the IR illuminator lit, so if there were glare off the paint, you'd see it..
Ive also been told by a couple of people now that painting a gun will make it stand out to night vision like a beacon, where the black gun wont. I dont know where they came up with that, but Ive never noticed it to be the case. I took this as best I could with my camera up against my old Gen 1 NV and while not the greatest, it still gives an idea as to whats really going on. Thats also with the IR illuminator lit, so if there were glare off the paint, you'd see it..
gearhounds
New member
I have painted my issue M-16 at my last 3 duty stations, but find that after repeated handling, the paint will polish and become shiny, and need more paint. On the last 2, I created my own camo tape that beats just about any on the market. I start with a high quality 50/50 blend in whatever pattern matches my work environment (currently have Sniper, is a good match for eastern woodland). Then I stick Duck brand double sided carpet tape, which is very thin, sticky, and strongly resists peeling, and comes in different widths. Applying it takes a while, as it has to be cut a little at a time, but it is well worth the effort. I find a taped finish softens the outline as well, and really improves grippiness.
I will try to posts pics with different backgrounds and my hand made 3-D camo suit. That's another story.
I will try to posts pics with different backgrounds and my hand made 3-D camo suit. That's another story.
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thesheepdog
New member
Two things will remedy that:
1) Get the military flat base Krylon or equivalent.
2) If using regular old Krylon, get some 600 grit or finer abrasive to give the paint a Matte or flat look.
gearhounds
New member
I've tried all but the Mil-spec stuff; I start with krylon camo, which dries very powdery and has a very nice matte appearance, but repeated handlings will polish it. Light sanding will eventually get to metal, so now I do both. First paint, then tape, so no black is peeking out.
Some paints do have more shine to them with use. If you use the clear flat lacquer overcoat it seems to help slow that up a bit too. It will also quickly re-dull any "shine".
Ive always found the paint job actually worked better as it "aged". It gets beat up, but it also takes the edge off it.
Ive always found the paint job actually worked better as it "aged". It gets beat up, but it also takes the edge off it.
gearhounds
New member
Here is my duty A2 (defanged 
), with the homemade tape job. Tape has been in place for 3 years now, and still going strong.
Here it is superimposed over my homemade 3D suit upper. I made a full suit out of standard twill woodland top/bottom, boonie, fabric adhesive, camo fabric cut into random patches, and lots o' time. It is much more durable and user friendly than a true ghillie which often is more fragile, and tailered to static use. You can run through a briar patch and barely feel any stings, and leave barely any evidence of your passing.
), with the homemade tape job. Tape has been in place for 3 years now, and still going strong.
Here it is superimposed over my homemade 3D suit upper. I made a full suit out of standard twill woodland top/bottom, boonie, fabric adhesive, camo fabric cut into random patches, and lots o' time. It is much more durable and user friendly than a true ghillie which often is more fragile, and tailered to static use. You can run through a briar patch and barely feel any stings, and leave barely any evidence of your passing.
tynimiller
New member
Couldn't find a buyer for my 50cal Traditions so I now have a snow camo muzzelloader for those hunts where I'll be on the ground alot and it will give me that ever so slight edge...it also was just plain fun painting it. Will post pics soon.
It really all depends what it is. I would never even thing about painting my nice guns but i've had a few great paint guns Mossberg Bolt action 12 Gauge turned turkey Gun. Have a Stevens 200 that turned into a paint gun. The stock was so ugly from the factory that i didn't care if i messed up. Sanded, and primed everything, Followed by a Rustoleum Texture Paint. It came out much nicer than the Cheap light gray finish. also filled the but stock with Heavy weight Bondo and the fore end with steel rods and Epoxy. The gun went from a POS .300win mag that was unbearable to shoot to a nice .75moa rifle.
With a cheap gun have fun!
With a cheap gun have fun!
Ignition Override
New member
Each of my guns is made of wood and metal. No thank you.
I saw an original M-1 Carbine at the very large Whittaker's gun store (in KY) about 15 miles southeast of Evansville IN, maybe a year ago.
It was painted green and we thought, oh, what a pitiful shame to do That to an authentic war rifle
....of course the owner must have assumed that he would never need to sell it. It was a lousy paint job. You guy's work is much better, but many of us simply prefer the classic looks of wood and metal.
An original Bulgarian AK (seen weeks ago at the Franklin, TN show) with solid wood, despite little bluing (nice 'silver') looks as tough and real as it gets.
I saw an original M-1 Carbine at the very large Whittaker's gun store (in KY) about 15 miles southeast of Evansville IN, maybe a year ago.
It was painted green and we thought, oh, what a pitiful shame to do That to an authentic war rifle
....of course the owner must have assumed that he would never need to sell it. It was a lousy paint job. You guy's work is much better, but many of us simply prefer the classic looks of wood and metal.An original Bulgarian AK (seen weeks ago at the Franklin, TN show) with solid wood, despite little bluing (nice 'silver') looks as tough and real as it gets.
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That carbine might have been a real steal. You never know whats under the paint, and most paints are pretty easy to get off.
While it is some work, its usually not all that hard to restore them to what they were.
Now, that carbine might have been painted for a very good reason too, and maybe the paints best on there.
