Opinions of the Kel-Tec P32

People are always going on about how the Ruger LCP will totally disintegrate in short order from regular trips out to the range, but I've seen guys who claim to have had upwards of 10,000 rounds through their LCPs with only smaller parts needing replaced. Supposedly the Gen 1 LCPs (2008-2013) with the smaller sights and a dash in the serial number had issues with the frames/rails cracking, but Gen 2 models as well as the LCP II seem to have addressed this.

If not, big deal. Even if Ruger won't replace them, (which I doubt) then a replacement can be purchased inexpensively. Heck, if I were that worried, I'd just buy another LCP and use one for training, the other for carry, only putting enough rounds through the latter for the sake of ascertaining reliability.

Besides, it seems like all of these little Micro 380s have their flaws. P3AT/LCPs aren't very durable, the S&W 380 Bodyguard ejects a round if you slap a magazine in too hard, the Remington RM380 has spotty reliability, the Taurus Spectrum has light primer strikes, the Beretta Pico is more ammo sensitive than others and has a heavy DAO trigger.

If I wanted a small, ultra-reliable, handgun with good sights that's practically indestructible, then I would carry a Walther PPK. In fact, before I carried an LCP, I carried the subcompact PPK/S, which was excellent. It's a shame that Walther never revived the PPK/L in .380 ACP, as that would actually be a pretty sweet little carry gun.
 
There is a member on here that likes the PICO because it comes with a stainless chassis, therefore has to be superior to all 380 options (not acknowledging all steel is an iron/carbon alloy), and in every posts mentions the aluminum frame of the LCP will crack

Simply isn't true or even documented to a level that means diddly.
 
I thought that guy got banned, but then again, I could be thinking of the Ruger Forum, as there was a guy who did the exact same thing there.

I find it funny how even in this day and age there are still folks who doubt the longevity of Aluminum and Polymer. I mean, some of them will at least conced that it will law a few decades, but then of course they can't leave with their dignity intact, so they have to follow up that statement with some silly statements about how they won't last a lifetime of use and most certainly won't become a family heirloom.
Frankly, I don't understand the argument that a gun that cannot stand up to generations of use is somehow bad.

My personal favorite argument against polymer frames came from a guy on another forum who literally made the argument that polymer was inferior to steel because it could be melted down with a heat gun. Just to clarify, his argument was essentially; "I don't trust polymer because I could deliberately destroy a polymer frame more easily than steel."
 
Lol, your know exactly that I have posted about the quality of the Pico and yes many times. Just as you have posted about the same firearms. The subject comes up frequently and I post. So what! I thought we made agreement that I would not respond to your post if you did not respond to mine. I know it UN-nerves you that I am a Pico fan boy and you are always there with a comment.
Yes, I have owned many LCP's, I am sure a Lot more than you have and do know something about them. All had grip cracks and one had a crack in the frame, I also had rails that split. All had to be sent in many times for repairs and then replaced. I also posted many Pics of these.
And I will stand by what I said, that the Pico is a much superior built firearm. At least it has Proven itself to me that he can handle a vast amount of ammo down range.
You want a LCP, fine, I will get the Pico (own three of them). Live and let live.

You want to argue that a aluminum alloy is stronger than steel, then be my guest. Go ahead and tell us what guns that is true. Revolvers? 1911's, anything? Please which guns with aluminum alloy are better than one's built with Stainless Steel? Not that I care.
And I also stand by the fact that the Polymer frames of the LCP do crack and showed many pics. I did say that if the Pico were to crack a Polymer grip, it is easily replaced, although I never cracked one.
I did not post my opinion to get into one of your beefs, just my opinion.
Really do not want to get into the dirt with you. If you love the LCP that is fine with me. I have no problem at all.

I still have a LCP, just bought a LCPll 22.cal own three Pico's, and a Keltc P32 and two Karh 380's. I did not know YOU even ownd a Pico?
One of my favorite guns is the LCR9mm and 357. I guess Ruger must have screwd up and used steel for cylinder and upper frame. Just curious, why did they do this? Man they could have just used aluminum.
 
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It's simple to change the grip on an LCP/P3AT.

Kel Tec has been selling P3AT grips to users on their website for close to 20 years :)

You're confusing my interest as aluminum vs steel vs what I'm saying that LCP frames don't break--so it doesn't matter what the material is.
 
wild cat mccane said:
It's simple to change the grip on an LCP/P3AT.

Kel Tec has been selling P3AT grips to users on their website for close to 20 years :)

You're confusing my interest as aluminum vs steel vs what I'm saying that LCP frames don't break--so it doesn't matter what the material is.
Click to expand...
Well, I guess I learn something every day. Yes, I know you can change the Grips on Keltec, but have never seen the part for the Grip on a LCP. I still have one, so would like to get a spare. Can you give me a link Please?
 
It's the exact same process between the LCP and P3AT...cause they are the same :)

Pop those plastic pins out you see on the grip, put a screw driver down the magwell to pop the hammer spring out of place. Lift up your LCP chassis. Reverse order to put it back in. About a 30 second process.


Kel Tec got credit for the first in the world mobile chassis in a handgun. I literally have no idea why you fight this :)
 
Yep. Spring labeled Part 25 is what is removed with a flat headed screw driver.

It's Ruger who hasn't released grips widely. Kel Tec does. If your LCP grip did break, you'll be getting your entire gun back with just the grip replaced because the LCP has a modular FCU, same as the P3AT it copies.
 
They would replace the grips, and then later, a couple would would get a full replacement. I do not remember if Ruger had the Grip part. It has been quite a few years, but I do not recall seeing them for sale back then. Maybe the particular guns just had a issue.
Regardless, the all shot well although not smooth Imo and I never had a problem with ammo or mags. Ruger customer service for me, was a 5 star rating.
 
Just for the heck of it, I searched "Ruger LCP cracked" on Google Images and I only got a handful of results...

One was from a YouTube video featuring a Gen 1 LCP with a crack on the frame just below the rear frame pin, some pictures posted on a forum which appeared to be the exact same LCP featured in the video taken from different angles, and a picture of an LCP with a cracked rail.

So yeah, unless the millions of people who own LCPs just aren't shooting them enough to break them, it would seem to be a rare occurrence. Granted that I'm sure many folks don't run their LCPs very hard because they're uncomfortable to shoot and the sights don't lend themselves to accurate shooting, so I can see most shooters taking it out to the range a couple times before they decide that they've had enough, can't shoot it any better, and that they've shot it enough to verify that it's reliable. However, presumptions based on limited observations aren't evidence, and should never be treated as such, so there's no way to tell either way.

Also, as previously stated, I've read posts by a guy on the Ruger Pistol Forum who claimed to have over 10,000 rounds through his LCP, and the only thing that broke according to him was the takedown pin which went somewhere around 5000. That said, he claimed to frequently replace the recoil and hammer springs, particularly the recoil spring because he believed that what would cause the frame/rails/pin to crack was the slide battering the frame once the springs started to get weak.

Regardless, it makes no difference whatsoever so long as you perform regular maintenance/inspection of your firearms, as any problems which may arise can be quickly addressed before they become problematic, Ruger seems like they'll repair these things indefinitely should anything break due to ordinary use, and even if they don't, they're inexpensive.
 
My Gen 1 LCP cracked right below the rear frame pin as you described, after around 2000 rounds. Ruger took care of it, essentially gave me back a new gun, built around the original serial number chassis.
 
I started looking for cracks starting around the 1500 rd mark. I think the highest I got on one was around 22-2300 rds. I do know one guy that reported 3,000 rds but I think that is a anomaly. I am obsessive in changing out recoil springs on a regular schedule. I would order 4 or 5 at a time and change them out around 4-5 hundred rounds. Do that now with all my 380 pocket guns. On the LCP, I would also order extra take down pins as I had many of those break. There is a after market company that does sell a upgraded steel pin that seems to work from other fans have reported. I think the cost is around $15.00.
I do not shoot the LCP much any longer, but I have a heavier Wolf spring in it. I believe the heavier springs are worth the cost.
I could not tell you about the LCPll. Maybe Ruger made some changes and they last longer, however I have not kept up with it.
 
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all that lcp/pico stuff aside, how 'bout dat P32?

I often read people saying 7.3 oz. bla bla bla bla..... mine weighed more that that loaded, and loaded is the only way to go with the P32. I've done two "upgrades" to my P32, a metal recoil spring guide rod and a metal belt clip. Neither were needed, the guide rod was not damaged and the belt clip (1.0 oz) allows the saving of a mere .2 oz over a soft pocket holster (.8 oz) the total weight of my loaded and "upgraded" P32 is 10.2oz. I could probably bring that down by 1.5 ounces by going back to a plastic recoil spring guide rod, removal of the belt clip, and using lighter ammo; but I lose a mode of carry that way as well as the penetration value of fmj ammo. I'm ok with 10.2 ounces

edit: site won't let me post the same pic twice in different topics for some reason.
 
The P32 sz and weight difference is overstated as significant when comparing ballistics—in my opinion.

Add a magguts spring and capacity is the same without the fear of rim lock.

While fmj stays the recommended load on 32, 380 loads with XTP and new Hydroshok beat out bad 9mm for expanded penetration.

You have to want the 32 to want the P32. I am sure P32 owners do like them.
 
Without getting into a long winded debate about ballistics, the Keltec sure provides a light weight carry. Especially in Hot Humid Summer when wearing a pair of shorts and Tee shirt. 6 1/2 ounces unloaded.

8 rds loaded with Underwood Plus P

knjOphd.jpg
 
Carl the Floor Walker said:
Without getting into a long winded debate about ballistics, the Keltec sure provides a light weight carry. Especially in Hot Humid Summer when wearing a pair of shorts and Tee shirt. 6 1/2 ounces unloaded.

8 rds loaded with Underwood Plus P
Click to expand...

You may want to avoid using some of the so-called "+P" ammo in the P32 considering that there is no such thing as an official +P loading for the .32 ACP cartridge as per SAAMI Specifications, ergo what you're using is unregulated overpressure ammo which may or may not be safe to shoot.
Yeah, I know that Kel-Tec states in their manuals that it's safe to shoot +Ps, but once again, these so-called ".32 ACP +P" loads aren't regulated, ergo the pressure curve between brands could exceed whatever brand of +P loads Kel-Tec has tested and hopefully determined is safe to shoot.

Just saying, if the LCP apparently isn't built sturdily enough to withstand 3000 rounds of Standard Pressure .380 ACP without the frame/rails cracking under the strain, then you probably shouldn't be trusting the Kel-Tec P32 which is even smaller, lighter, and objectively less robust than the LCP to hold up to the use of unofficial, unregulated overpressure ammunition.
Come to think of it, have you been referring to the use of .380 ACP +P loads this whole time when it comes to the LCP's failure to hold up to over 2500 rounds before something fails? Because if so, then that would explain the discrepancy between the relatively low round count of your LCP compared to folks I've seen on other forums who have claimed to have fired upwards of 5000 rounds without anything besides the takedown pin failing.

And once again, yes, I am aware that Buffalo Bore for instance claims that it's safe to shoot their so-called ".380 ACP +P" loads out of a Ruger LCP, but Ruger themselves says otherwise, and I'm more apt to take their word for it rather than the word of an ammo manufacturer. Besides, like I said, being unregulated overpressure loads, Underwood could be loading their .380 ACP +P ammo even hotter than Buffalo Bore.

Please be honest, I'm not judging you if that's the ammo that you prefer to use, (in fact I myself considered using it in the past, albeit in my PPK/S) I'm merely saying that use of such ammunition would obviously accelerate wear on the LCP, just as any official SAAMI Spec load would, and Ruger even advises against the regular use of official SAAMI Spec +P loads in their LC9 series of pistols, which are essentially just scalled up LCPs chambered in 9mm Luger.
 
This topic has been discussed many times. On 380 manufacturers that state it will shoot Plus P or higher pressure ammo I have done this many times and the guns have no problem. However, yes, the manufacturers that state to not use it, DO NOT. They will go down.
 
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