Oh no...thinking about AR's

Uhhh...223 Saiga maybe? Another $400, but you won't have to scour the world for brass.

Or maybe a .308 Saiga. Supposed to be pretty accurate; and again, brass is available. Might go $550 for that puppy.

One nice thing about Saigas is that you can't go swapping uppers and getting different calibers or configurations. ARs are too much like Contenders. Uppers start proliferating like Contender barrels do. Then you need another lower...then more uppers. It's a vicious circle that's designed to be that way.

As far as 7.62x39 brass goes, with Russian ammo down where it is, it's tough to reload x39 for significantly less. Buy the loaded steelcase ammo and shoot it. The fun of experimenting is lost, but a lot of time is saved.
Bob
 
Tactical OR Practical :D

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Got mine from BCM just because i like to support Bravo company but you can get them anywhere that has magpul products. They're magpul XTM rail covers.

That'll Do said:
I really like it. It's rock solid, and it lets me get a really good cheek weld. I looked at the Vltor, but went with Magpul because they offered additional recoil pads (I prefer a thicker pad). If (when) I buy another AR, I'll buy either this stock, or the Magpul UBR (pretty similar to the ACS).

The Vltor and ACS has those ridges where you can replace or put batteries and it might bother me. I've been comparing the LMT and ACS. Seems the ACS has a bigger cheek weld which i favor. Will have to do some thinking.
 
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I prefer the .308 myself. I was broken hearted when they replaced the M14 with the M16. Just didn't seem right. Problem now is that my AR makes for a fine varmint/predator rifle. It's relatively cheap to use as a plinker and I have fun shooting it. Afraid I can't talk you out of it. On the otherhand I still own three .308s, two of them being semi autos one of which is a Springfield M1A Supermatch. Old habits are hard to break. It's not my old M14, but it is close enough to soothe the soul. :D
 
Blackops_2 said:
The Vltor and ACS has those ridges where you can replace or put batteries and it might bother me. I've been comparing the LMT and ACS. Seems the ACS has a bigger cheek weld which i favor. Will have to do some thinking.

I really don't notice the "ridge" on the ACS. It's big enough that you can't feel it with your cheek. At any rate, either stock is a fine choice.
 
Very much so, some states flatout ban it. Not my perspective, but millions of hunters won't use it and prefer .30 caliber guns.

For dangerous game, very few recommend it. It has it's limitations, it's not even used for long distance precision shooting, the Army is using the .300 Win Mag for that now.

Any caliber can be questioned as marginal in certain uses.
 
I really don't notice the "ridge" on the ACS. It's big enough that you can't feel it with your cheek. At any rate, either stock is a fine choice.

I think he's referring to the cheekweld in general. That's my favorite feature of the Sopmod. I had thought about going with the ACS, but I realized I wouldn't use the storage, and it's about the same cost as the LMT stock, so I'll stick with what I got.
 
Very much so, some states flatout ban it. Not my perspective, but millions of hunters won't use it and prefer .30 caliber guns.
I'm glad you consider regulations written years ago by subject matter experts (/s) as a totally accurate source of what caliber is suitable for what, especially years after their creation.

Us folks who have actually used .223/5.56 to kill animals and people are in the umbra of your expertise by (questionable) proxy on the subject.

For dangerous game, very few recommend it. It has it's limitations, it's not even used for long distance precision shooting, the Army is using the .300 Win Mag for that now.
Hunting isn't necessarily hunting dangerous game or "long distance shooting". The logic you're applying here is that "well, it doesn't do everything, so clearly its not an effective hunting or manhunting round". I guess we all need 14.5mm in Tirodland to be appropriately equipped for any given task no matter how small.
 
I guess we all need 14.5mm in Tirodland to be appropriately equipped for any given task no matter how small

Ok 14.5mm, where can I get one? I was hopping for a 20mm but I guess a 14.5 will do. (duuua)

While the 223/5.56 is a decent replacement for the 22 LR & 22 mag, it is not a decent replacement for the 30 calibers, or even the 25 calibers. If you think otherwise just pick up a case for a 223 and a case for even a 243 or 308 or 25-06 or 260 or a 270 or a 30-06 and if you can't see the differences it's time to get a new presciption for your eye glasses.

Jim
 
Guys, please don't get this thread locked. I'm just looking for advice how to build an inexpensive, workable AR if my funds allow.
 
While the 223/5.56 is a decent replacement for the 22 LR & 22 mag, it is not a decent replacement for the 30 calibers, or even the 25 calibers. If you think otherwise just pick up a case for a 223 and a case for even a 243 or 308 or 25-06 or 260 or a 270 or a 30-06 and if you can't see the differences it's time to get a new presciption for your eye glasses.

I don't say anything of the sort. You obviously didn't take the time to read either of my posts or your reading comprehension is really that poor. If you think I said that .223/5.56 is "better" or does the same thing as .308, .50BMG etc, go find it and quote it.
 
Now, is it more economical to just buy a complete lower and upper or try and get all this stripped stuff and assemble myself? I know zero about AR's and wouldn't even begin to know how to start or what to look for.

NO! NO! Don't ask questions like this.. This is that "thinking" stuff you mentioned earlier!

Cause I've caught myself thinking about ARs a time or two, but thankfully haven't gotten the money soon enough to buy one. I lost interest and then when I had money to make a purchase I happily bought something else and didn't regret passing on the AR.

I shoot one at work, I generally see it as a tool to accomplish a mission, not a gun to love and enjoy. To each his own though.
 
Chris, have you narrowed you options any?

Honestly, I wouldn't know where to start. I can only draw on what rifles I've had previously and how I used them.

Pretty sure I won't be hanging any lights/lasers off the thing, so a handguard without a Pic rail is probably fine. I like to stand up when I shoot, not terribly interested in bench shooting with a bipod.

I like red dots and a flattop is a must. Peep sights are also something I like to use (Garand). More than anything else the gun *has* to be reliable and not jam. Spoiled by the AK I guess.

On a side note I spied this rather bargain-basement looking piston AR at the shop last week. It was about $795, so something's gotta be wrong with it, right? Cheapest I've found is around $900 online. Can't remember the name, but it wasn't a major name like DPMS or anything.
 
Now, is it more economical to just buy a complete lower and upper or try and get all this stripped stuff and assemble myself? I know zero about AR's and wouldn't even begin to know how to start or what to look for.

Economical? yes, and it's very easy, also. Check this out for the build aspect,

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

and here- http://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=493 for all other inquiries you might have. Now, I'm not saying anything within these articles are gospel, but there's certainly alot of good information for someone new to AR's. The hardest decision I'm having to make is what barrel twist rate to go with. (In the end, it might not matter as much as I thought) Food for thought. :D
 
An AR around $800 is fine, surely not 'cheap'. They might be low-end ones or starter rifles but I'm sure it's ok.

I bought my first AR used for $450 only because it had a gun shop name and address engraved in it and had a fixed stock which no one in PA wants. So it was a steal, which I will gladly take advantage of!
 
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