Oh crap got my case stuck in my die

Thanks again for the responses. So obviously I messed up I used the .338 bushing on my cases which is why the neck is so small.

I ordered the .366 and .365 bushings to try. Can I resize the brass that I made the neck too small on and expand it with the new bushings? Or do I have to throw them out now?
 
The use of sizing lubricant per Dufus would certainly work but anything oily or greasy could contaminate the primers, even if the cases have not yet been primed. I've tried that with RCBS case lube so I know the results. Use only something dry. The one shot does dry out and using that has been successful.
 
I use the RCBS lube and a plastic brush to lightly lube the inside of necks. Never have I had a primer problem.

Probably the OP should park the Bushing Die for now and get a standard type FL resizing Die.

And there’s one more thing to consider if he’s using Lapua brass. Quite often the neck wall thickness in Lapua brass is...well...thick. That will also need to be factored in on what Bushing to use and whether or not to use the expander button.

Get a standard type FL Die. And get some decent case lube. Throw that spray stuff away.
 
A shooter, collector, reloader in Bradford, PA sent me a 30/06 die with a case stuck in it. He was thinking the RCBS die had a history of stuck cases, I received the die and proceeded to remove the stuck case. After removing the stuck cases I started using the die, the die keep ever case I stuck into it.

The die belong to his dad and that meant I would not take liberties, the die was one of the few mistakes RCBS made during (I assumed) manufacturing/labeling. The die was not identified as a small base die but the opening in the die was .006" smaller in diameter than the standard 30/06 die and it was not that much better when compared to a small base die.

SO:eek: I have stuck cases in dies, that die did not start running smoothly until I sized 50.+ cases, he had already purchased a back-up die and decided he would use the older die as a back-up. I cautioned him against using the die on cases that were fired in trashy old chambers.

I have stuck cases: I use a no-name lube, I do not use it all the time, I use it on the difficult to size cases, for ever thing else I use RCBS etc. I do not use Imperial, when it gets tuff to size a case it is most difficult to make that stuff look good.

F. Guffey
 
I suffered the indignity of sticking a few brass in their resizers.
Lack of lubing correctly before hand assuredly was the cause.

Yep my trying to sneak a bare brass or 2 thru their resizing die without lubing due to many correctly lubed brass of the same batch previously resized. >was my shortcoming. "Stupid is as stupid does."
I don't remember just what year I started reloading. Although I do remember John Kennedy speaking on a 12" Zenith B/White TV while I cycled some 30wcf thru a pair of Georgy Herter dies. ~~~Seems to me that was quite some time ago.
 
As others posted , the RCBS Case lube I found works the best for me , I'm not reloading a large quantity of rifle brass at a time , I first add a little lube on the inside of the case necks with a Q Tip then add the lube with my thumb an trigger finger on the case body . Sizing goes very smooth .
 
I am one of those who happily apply One Shot to brass with no problems since I learned to properly don't several years ago. I do 50 at a time, toss them into a small box, shoe boxes work great, shaking the can very well, apply liberally, shake them around and give them another shot. Continue on and finished setting up your die/press, use the restroom, make a quick call to wife whatever, to allow the carrier agent to evaporate and size them just fine. I have used the RCBS lube and to put it bluntly it isn't worth the mess for me. I will happily take One shot every time. Everyone gets to use what they like God Bless America!
 
Panfisher:
What brass (calibers) do you use the One Shot with? Be honest now and don't tell us you use it with the likes of .416s and the Remington Ultra mags. :)
 
Nope don't own nor load for any ultra mags but have happily loaded, .223, .22-250, .22 Hornet, .30-30, .30-06, .243, 7mm-08, .280, 7mm RM, .270 WSM, .300 WSM, .45-70, thats all I can think of for right now. Certainly am not trying to sell anyone on using One Shot, but it isn't the worst stuff in the world either. I am quite happy with it, in fact probably am due to purchase another can the next time I make it to the gunshop. I have indeed stuck a grand total of two cases, one back before I used One Shot and one since, before I figured out to be generous and let the carrier evaporate. I just don't like the mess of the RCBS lube, let alone the pad. I will admit that when I am bored and amusing myself by running various empty cases through the "wrong" dies to neck up or down (just to look at, not load) I tend to use the RCBS lube.
 
Well OK, I like my crow well done. I was expecting an answer like .223s only. I did try it with '06 cases only and thought it to be a little iffy. Good for inside case necks if you want to go that route.
 
I feel like I need to clarify. It wasn't the lube that messed up, it was me. I used the .338 lapua die expander but a .338 diameter bushing (because I thought that meant it was for the .338 caliber). The brass ran through the expander, the bushing made the neck tiny, and when indent to pull it out the super small neck hit the back of the large expander and jammed. Was my fault for buying the wrong bushing.

Bonus question:
What is official max load for cartridges? Should I go by my lymans guidebook, or hodgekins website? Guide says 88 grain retumbo for 300grain bullet, hodgekins website says 94 grains. Which is a better guide?
 
Load manuals offer what worked in their tests. They typically publish velocity and some include pressures. I trust the ones that publish each.

Keep in mind that they stopped at their published max for a reason.

In reality, your rifle will tell you when to stop. Learn to read pressure signs. Learn when it is time to back down as a result of these pressure signs.

A good source for this sort of information is available at www.6mmbr.com
 
jamesf553,

I would seriously suggest you do some reloading basics reading before delving further into your actual reloading. A lot of the questions you are asking will be answered, and not by people who you have no idea who they are and their level of expertise.

Don
 
USSR said:
jamesf553,

I would seriously suggest you do some reloading basics reading before delving further into your actual reloading. A lot of the questions you are asking will be answered, and not by people who you have no idea who they are and their level of expertise.

Don
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Ussr,

I have read 3 now. I have just begun however, I am not an expert. Unfortunately not every scenario is handled in the book basics and it is nice to ask advice from individuals who have gone through the same learning steps. I agree however I don't know anyone's expertise so I take it with a grain of salt, but appreciate it none the less!
 
Want to confuse yourself even more, read old vs newer manuals. I tend to use the newer ones like Hodgkins on line data and then compare to printed manuals. I always back off from the listed max loads and let the results like pressure signs and accuracy tell me the rest. I only have one rifle at this point that truly likes the near max loads, most prefer a more moderate loading, but results are as individual as rifles.
 
Panfisher said:
Want to confuse yourself even more, read old vs newer manuals. I tend to use the newer ones like Hodgkins on line data and then compare to printed manuals. I always back off from the listed max loads and let the results like pressure signs and accuracy tell me the rest. I only have one rifle at this point that truly likes the near max loads, most prefer a more moderate loading, but results are as individual as rifles.
Click to expand...
Do factory round loads vary? Or do they just shove as much powder in as they can for a maximum load.
 
jamesf553
Factory loads aren't loaded to the max. You should start in the middle and work your loads up by .5 a grain , check your groups , when you get the best group then you could check the best bullet length . Your rifle may shoot even tighter with more of a jump or a jam. The need for speed most of the time will not give you the most accurate load. Just look at the villosity on a box of Match Grade loaded ammo.
 
cw308 said:
jamesf553
Factory loads aren't loaded to the max. You should start in the middle and work your loads up by .5 a grain , check your groups , when you get the best group then you could check the best bullet length . Your rifle may shoot even tighter with more of a jump or a jam. The need for speed most of the time will not give you the most accurate load. Just look at the villosity on a box of Match Grade loaded ammo.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I looked on midway at a couple boxes and the listed muzzle velocities were way higher than listed for max loads on hodgons website. 250grain with us869 is like 2875 f/s and the 250grain match grade hornady lists 2900 f/s. They just boasting the numbers?
 
Do factory round loads vary? Or do they just shove as much powder in as they can for a maximum load.
Click to expand...

I have pulled down factory ammo, after pulling the ammo down I have measured and weighed the components; I have pulled R.P. ammo down and found it was difficult to improve upon..

I have used Federal GMM ammo to test rifles for accuracy, again, I found no room for improvement. There was no advantage to moving the bullet into the lands or out of the lands, It was not necessary to increase the length of the case from the shoulder t the case head, it was not necessary to 'bump' anything.

Advantage? Once it has been proven the rifle can be accurate with good ammo the rifle should be accurate with hand loads.

When I take a rifle to the range for testing I use as many as 12 different cases that include new, once fired, military never fired, military once fired etc.. I normally load 10 rounds per group.

F. Guffey
 
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