Not A Thread For S&W Purist

Nicely done.Would I have ? Probably not.I prefer the before.

But it is your gun and you did a nice job of making what you wanted.
 
What I would really think is that I wasn't that interested I carrying a revolver and was trying to make it like a semi-auto, when the semi-auto would be the better choice.
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What would you say about carrying a double-action revolver and was trying to make it like a single-action when a double action would be a better choice?
 
I've seen people really destroy a good revolver. My favorite is when they jewel it.:rolleyes: But what you did to that gun looks great. Of course it looked great before you started.
 
A tear in my eye!

Absolutely fantastic.

If I had a gun like this when I was a State Police Detective, I probably would never had retired.

I am really sick of plastic guns and am getting back into revolvers (S&W and Colts).

If you ever want to part with this gun, let me know. I'll get a home equity loan and we will be good to go. :o

Great work and thanks for sharing this with us,

Trooper Joe,

[My biggest fear is that when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her I paid for them.]:confused:
 
Can't see it in the pics, but it looks like you missed a tiny "improvement" to the job that was done. Checkering the top of the hammer.

Not really needed, of course, but adding a little texture to the top of the hammer allows for a more secure grip for those rare times you do want to cock it for an SA shot.

I wouldn't have done that conversion to a pinned barrel Smith, but that's just me. Chop one of their new guns into anything you want, fine with me.

On the other hand, its just a 65, so no big deal. Now, if you had that done to a model 28, someone should hurt you! :rolleyes: (joke)

Seriously, nice looking piece, and if it fits your needs, then its all good.

DO tell us if you have any ignition issues with the bobbed hammer...it's been known to happen...
 
On the other hand, its just a 65, so no big deal. Now, if you had that done to a model 28, someone should hurt you! (joke)
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Or a model 19 ;)....

Honestly though, I'd thought of doing close to this w/a Model 629 or Ruger Redhawk & going one step further by "Fitzing" the trigger guard.
 
DO tell us if you have any ignition issues with the bobbed hammer...it's been known to happen..
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I say poppy-cock to that. My opinion is the ignition issues come from folks playing with the spring tension screw after bobbing a hammer. Every revolver I have with the exception of the wife's Model 60 and my Python ALL have bobbed hammers and not one of them have ignition problems. When I bobbed the hammer on my 10-7 snubbie the difference in weight was 3.5 GRAINS. Not very significant with regards to weight. Again in my opinion if 3.5 grains is going to cause ignition problems then I would look elsewhere for something else going on.
 
I purchased a new one but it did not exactly match to tone of the trigger. So the old was cut and the new is still in the package just in case.
 
Quote:[DO tell us if you have any ignition issues with the bobbed hammer...it's been known to happen..]

I say poppy-cock to that. My opinion is the ignition issues come from folks playing with the spring tension screw after bobbing a hammer. Every revolver I have with the exception of the wife's Model 60 and my Python ALL have bobbed hammers and not one of them have ignition problems. When I bobbed the hammer on my 10-7 snubbie the difference in weight was 3.5 GRAINS. Not very significant with regards to weight. Again in my opinion if 3.5 grains is going to cause ignition problems then I would look elsewhere for something else going on.
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Ditto and +1 to Don P's comment above. If this forum had a "Like" function I would have clicked on it.

I too have bobbed a number of hammers on older Smiths (non-MIM stuff, only forged hammers). I have never experienced ignition problems from simply cutting off the hammer spur. However, I would expect this from modern S&Ws as I have had ignition problems with them, even with hammer spurs intact.

Dave
 
I bought a used Model 36 not too long ago that came with a bobbed hammer, and I had enough ignition issues with it (reloads with CCI primers) that I took it back and got a refund from the dealer. The strain screw was tight, but I have no idea what if anything else may have been done to the gun before I got it.
 
As an absolute, 100% dyed in the wool S&W purist I say...


Meh.


You see, you altered a soulless steel gun.

And EVERY S&W purist knows that the ONLY pure S&W guns worth a damn are blue steel.

I get sweaty at the thought of altering a blued S&W.


Soulless steel? I have a dull wood rasp and a rusty hacksaw around here somewhere. That's good enough to do the alterations.
 
I'm with you Mike, I too think the most beautiful guns are blued. But, for just beating the crap out of and shooting all the time, I prefer my model 67. The one I have has the best trigger of all my guns and for me it's just the most accurate gun I shoot. It always goes to the range with me. Plus I kind of like the patina it gets when it gets kind of dirty looking, gives it an all business kind of look.
 
Oh, don't get me wrong. I recognize the incredible utility of a shiny silver gun, be it souless steel, nickel plated, or chromed.

I have no affinity for silver guns, although a dull gray/pewter look certainly makes them more appealing, and far less objectionable, to me.

Which is probably why I really like my S&W 4506-1 and also the EAA Witness 10mm I had for awhile (before I sold it to another Mod here).

Given how hot and humid it is here in the DC metro much of the year I've often thought that getting an S&W Model 60 or something similar would be a good idea.

But, I just can't bring myself to carry such a gun.
 
Nickel-plated would serve in a sweaty environment and be just as old-time as a blued gun. I like bling but have nice blued Blackhawks too.
 
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