North American Arms = GARBAGE!

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I'm not a gunsmith

So to be clear the concern is a repeated failure after one decided not to return the firearm to the manufacturer to see if there was a remedy OR use a qualified gunsmith to inspect it for the cause of failure and this singular example is reason to pronounce an entire product line with a good history as garbage?
 
No disrespect to anyone, but IMHO, it is not up to the customer to "find a solution" to a design flaw, it is up to the manufacturer to either correct a problem or offer a reasonable explanation for it (assembly error by the customer, for example).

With a design flaw perhaps you are right about where the onerous lies but we are discussing a single example in a product line that has sold countless examples (ok I'm sure someone has a count). It is entirely possible the manufacture is not even aware of this singular example.

Is it handy to have defective example? No. But you surely cannot blame the manufacturer in a circumstance where they were likely not even made aware of the concern. The fact that the OP, who readily admits he is not qualified, has had to fix it three or four times is not indicative of a deeper problem.
 
James K said:
No disrespect to anyone, but IMHO, it is not up to the customer to "find a solution" to a design flaw, it is up to the manufacturer to either correct a problem or offer a reasonable explanation for it (assembly error by the customer, for example).

I would agree if there was a design flaw. However, my experience with NAA has been that they freely and speedily "corrected" something that was not even a design flaw in the first place. In the case of an actual design flaw, I would expect an immediate recall.

As I stated earlier, I have an early NAA 22LR that had the original un-notched cylinder. No big deal, not a design flaw, I simply carried it in my shirt pocket with the hammer down on an empty chamber. They later modified the design to include notches in the cylinder that allow you to carry the little guns fully loaded with the hammer down in a notch between the rounds. NAA replaced the cylinder on my gun at no charge with the latest version, sent me a free pair of very nice grips, and returned the gun next day delivery.

See NAA Customer Service here about at the bottom of the page:

https://northamericanarms.com/customer-service/

If you have an older model NAA Mini-Revolver, or know someone who does, please check to see if it is equipped with the NAA Safety Cylinder – if not please call at 800-821-5783 to find out how to update the gun to the new cylinder.

NAA Mini-Revolvers come with a Lifetime Warranty. If anything should ever go wrong with your Mini-Revolver, please call Customer Support to find out how to send the gun to us for repair.

I have no doubt that if there was any problem of substance with the guns that they have been making for over 25 years they would act immediately to correct it.

I've bought a lot of guns, cars, boats, airplanes and other mechanical devices in my lifetime. Many of them have not been perfect, I can't recall any offhand that were manufactured by divine beings. I have yet to brand an entire company and it's entire line of products that the vast majority of owners will testify are perfectly satisfactory as "garbage" and "POS".

From his description of cocking it while dragging the cylinder, I consider it most likely that the OP bent the spring by forcing it out of it's groove while holding the cylinder and trying to cock his gun. An undamaged spring with tension directed into the retaining groove will most likely make his gun 100% (as long as he doesn't hold the cylinder while cocking it) if he is capable of accomplishing it without further damage to his gun, as described in the link on Post #4.

Hopefully the OP doesn't own a BMW and attempt to take the fan off (reverse threads to prevent unscrewing during use, just like the NAA and S&W). It'll be even worse if he tries to change the chuck on his electric drill, everyone of those stupid drill design engineers used reverse thread screws on the retaining bolt. Hard to believe that they were ALL that stupid, isn't it? If you don't have the training, engineering, or common sense background to look at something and understand the parameters that drove it's design, it's probably best to leave it along and let someone else fix it for you. Sometimes it pays to do i little research before beating up your equipment.

EDIT: Just noticed the OP said:

The first time it happened was when I had the hammer pulled back, but not cocked and rotated the cylinder to see how freely it spun. That popped the spring out.

I would suggest that on ANY single action revolver that if you are pulling the hammer back and the cylinder doesn't turn freely (you probably didn't pull it back far enough to disengage the cylinder stop) then DON'T force it!

In the link above at the bottom of the page, NAA also includes directions on loading for those not familiar with single actions. Carefully note #3. If the hammer is NOT pulled far enough back the cylinder will NOT freely rotate!

The Safety Cylinder is a critical part of the gun. We recommend that you practice the following steps to become proficient at using the Safety Cylinder before loading the gun.

First: Make sure the gun is unloaded.
Second: Make sure the gun is unloaded!
Third: Retract the hammer to the point that the cylinder spins freely (about half-way) and keep it retracted.
Fourth: Looking through the top/rear of the frame, locate any of the five milled safety slots (those notches on the cylinder between the chambers), and position any slot directly beneath the blade of the hammer (which is still retracted).
Fifth: While still retracting the hammer, depress the trigger (and keep it depressed)
now allow the hammer to settle into the slot.
 
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So, how do you feel about NAA Minis, again?

Dunno, I have 3 NAA Minis and a Guardian in 32. Even had a Guardian 380 but that thing was a bear to shoot and too heavy for a pocket pistol. None of them had any issues - ever.

Let us know how the factory treats you. NAA Customer Service was always excellent in the couple of times I had to deal with them.
 
I'll add that I dont consider these a novelty but rather a defense niche gun. I stopped dryfire and just shoot live ammo but I still function test it periodically by cocking it (unloaded of course) and riding the hammer down with my thumb to check its working. All this weapon needs to do (or can be expected to do) in a defensive situation is get you five shots of .22 (mag I recommend) out of your fist. Reloading in an extended gun fight is not going to happen. It's an onion field gun or a get off me so I can get my primary "type" gun. I carry mine on my ankle as a backup only. If I'm sitting I can access it easy off my ankle where it may be difficult to get my "in wasteband appendix" tucked .38 out. I can see only a very narrow window of reasons to carry it as a primary. Five shots of Speer gold dot .22 mag out of a gun you can't see in my fist has a good purpose in the defense field. It is not fair though to compare it to a standard size defense weapon.
 
I was able to fix the issue last night, whether it is a temporary or permanant fix time will tell.

However, I did follow the link someone posted early in this thread and I looked at a few things. One thing I did differently last night was I bent the tiny spring ever so slightly to give it more pressure against the hand. My hope is the extra pressure of the spring will help retain it in the groove of the hand.

Next time the spring pops out tho, I'm sending it to NAA.
 
This is the third or fourth time I've had to dick with the hand spring issue and I'm sick of it. Sometimes it happens when I'm simply inserting the cylinder and I have to pull the hammer back slightly to fully push the cylinder pin in and when I pull the hammer back, cylinder doesn't rotate because... the piece of chickenwire popped out of the groove.

I'm not a gunsmith. When I first had to fix the issue, I didn't know the screw was a left hand thread, which is another stupid thing NAA did. Left hand threads...

Sorry, but it sure sounds like the issue lies with you and your shade-tree attempt at gunsmithing......
 
I was able to fix the issue last night, whether it is a temporary or permanant fix time will tell.

However, I did follow the link someone posted early in this thread and I looked at a few things. One thing I did differently last night was I bent the tiny spring ever so slightly to give it more pressure against the hand. My hope is the extra pressure of the spring will help retain it in the groove of the hand.

Next time the spring pops out tho, I'm sending it to NAA.

Depending on the spring, its design, material & heat treat, and the intended application ... "bending" a spring to give it more tension is usually, at best, a temporary "fix". It's not unusual for it to weaken some springs and even accelerate the loss of tension (and even worsen the problem that made you think it was somehow a good idea to bend the spring).

Call NAA and arrange to have it returned for whatever degree of warranty repair they'll decide to offer under warranty. They're pretty decent folks.

If you know a gun dealer who has an account with a major shipper, and especially one who may known and like you, you might be able to save on the cost of sending it to them.

Ever see one those signs above a gunsmith's counter? (Similar to signs anywhere service people fix things ;) ) Using an arbitrary dollar figure ...

$25/hour to repair a problem
$50/hr if you tried to "fix" it first
$75/hr if you watch
$100/hr if you offer advice

;)
 
Hopefully the OP doesn't own a BMW and attempt to take the fan off (reverse threads to prevent unscrewing during use, just like the NAA and S&W). It'll be even worse if he tries to change the chuck on his electric drill, everyone of those stupid drill design engineers used reverse thread screws on the retaining bolt.

For their own "engineering" reasons, older Chrysler-made cars used left-hand threads on wheel lugs from the hub on one side of the car (forget which) and right-hand threads on the other side of the car. If you didn't know any better (I didn't :o), you could get a hernia of the bicep while trying to change a flat.
 
I owned a 22mag NA mini for a while. Mine had a short, thin "forcing cone" from the barrel towards the cylinder...it was as thin as a finger nail.
Within the first 50rds, a chunk blew off at the 12 o'clock position. Now, the hot gases were directed at the top strap.
I had to send the little thing in to NA on my dime.
They had it for a month before I called and asked it's status. I was told they would get to it when they could.
Called back two weeks later. This time they were downright rude, but they did finally send my pistol back with a new barrel installed...two weeks later.
The customer (dis)service left such a bad taste that I immediately sold it at the gun show. I'll never own their products again.

I bought that mini because I needed a small gun due to my job situation at the time...ended up changing to a Beretta 950...a much better solution to my carry needs back then.
 
I worked in a few Gun Shops for about 15 years. I think I have only herd of 2 or 3 that had to be sent back for repair. One of them my friend found while working on a garbadge truck. Someone aperantly took it apart. It was in pieces parts. He tried to put it back together but it didn't work. He sent it in and they fixed it. As I remember he paid shipping and that was all.
 
For their own "engineering" reasons, older Chrysler-made cars used left-hand threads on wheel lugs from the hub on one side of the car...

The idea behind that is that when braking the nut will be "spinning into the threads" in a tightening motion, instead of spinning a loosening direction. While driving (not in reverse) both sides of the wheels are spinning with the tops going forward, although the left side spins ccw and the right side spins cw.

MG knock-offs are the same way.

I have a 1946 trailer (civilian Jeep thing) that also had LH threads on one side. I managed to break a 6-sided 1/2" drive socket before I figured it out.
 
45Auto said:
From his description of cocking it while dragging the cylinder, I consider it most likely that the OP bent the spring by forcing it out of it's groove while holding the cylinder and trying to cock his gun. An undamaged spring with tension directed into the retaining groove will most likely make his gun 100% (as long as he doesn't hold the cylinder while cocking it) if he is capable of accomplishing it without further damage to his gun, as described in the link on Post #4.
I did not cock it while dragging the cylinder. When it first happened, it was when I had the hammer pulled back to the point where the cylinder was freely spinning, so I decided I'd spin the cylinder like I would with my 1858 New Model Army when it was on half cock.

Apparently, the NAA can't do that.

The other time that it happened was when I simple held the pad of my thumb LIGHTLY against the surface of the cylinder and pulled the hammer back just to feel the cylinder rotate under my skin.

Believe me, I'm not putting a clamp on the cylinder and trying to cock the hammer with a hammer.
 
truthtellers said:
I did not cock it while dragging the cylinder. When it first happened, it was when I had the hammer pulled back to the point where the cylinder was freely spinning, so I decided I'd spin the cylinder like I would with my 1858 New Model Army when it was on half cock.

Apparently, the NAA can't do that.

You mean like this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4DQD4pW3RU

Pull the hammer back until the locking bolt drops clear of the cylinder and the cylinder will spin. Don't pull the hammer far enough, or pull it too far, and the locking bolt will be engaged with the cylinder notch. Trying to spin the cylinder in that condition will most likely damage something.

I guess you could also be trying to spin the cylinder backwards. That just occurred to me, not sure how the hand works on the NAA. It only has two clicks in the cocking mechanism, not 4 like a traditional Colt. If the hand is in constant contact with the cylinder then trying to spin it backwards is probably a pretty stupid idea. From the sound of it spinning, it probably is in constant contact.

I'm still trying to figure out whether you're incredibly mechanically inept or just trolling the forum.
 
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