Nickel plate removal

Uncle Nick

As I am just getting accustomed to the bead plaster, I am moving very carefully with it. I tried to avoid any sharp lines and especially the wearing and riding surfaces. Before I commenced stripping the nickel, the pistol locked up pretty well. So I stayed away from the ratchet ring. I will get to that at a later stage of the project.

The discoloration on the stop notches and grip frame is not rust but the residual red rouge from the fast wheel. Cleaning and smoothing this pistol as far from complete.

This cylinder was purchased on eBay since the original pistol came to me with the cylinder missing. It was in substantially worse shape than the frame of the pistol.

If I am ever able to make this pistol look much better than a sow's ear I will consider myself lucky.

I welcome your advice on a diluted cold blue test. I had a modified form in mind but did not know that the solution could be diluted.

Still learning. Still progressing.

Tnx,

Doc
 
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I was concerned that would be the case. Better to know before refinishing than after, though.

I've long diluted cold blue with 4 parts water by volume as a use-once, throw-away submersion solution for abrasive-blasted iron sights. The full-strength version is for wipe-on, full depth of color. In some brands, I find it too aggressive on the steel, and except for Oxpho Blue and Van's, which are a form of black phosphating, I've seen a lot of trouble with after-rust from the blackest cold blues. But the dilute stuff works less aggressively and causes less trouble if you neutralize the acids afterward and get it totally clean and then soak it in a water-displacing oil overnight.
 
Welllllll.

I blew off more of the nickel only to find that I could have gone further. It is fortunate that this is a learning process on a pistol that was worth nothing and now might be worth something (a very little something).

I am satisfied to leave the pistol this way so as to mimic an old patina. I did not reach that deliberately but by pure accident.
 

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Fascinating that it is actually starting to look like an old piece still in reasonable condition for its age. If you get into trouble with after-rust though (may be a couple or three months before you can tell), the satin surface is just fine for rust bluing, which is period authentic.
 
Tnx Unclenick

Good lead and I will keep my eyes on it. The internal condition of the pistol is good. I have about a dozen of these bicycle revolvers (if you include top breaks in the category) in various conditions. This one locks up as tightly as any of them. One of them does not lock up at all.
 
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