Newbie with equipment/general questions

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locknloader

New member
Hi guys, complete newbie here to reloading. I just purchased a bundle from someone with pretty much everything i need and had a few questions about the equipment i have.

I have a Frankford Arsenal tumbler with stainless steel media as well as a "classic tumbler" where you add in some media and it vibrates like mad.

Is there any advantage to one over the other? From the little research i have done the "classic tumbler" seems to be more messy and antiquated equipment and the Frankford Arsenal tumbler is the better one to use?

I also have a "bulge buster" kit for 40cal. I did some reading on this and understand that it happens due to unsupported barrels in glocks. Does this only affect 40cal or does it affect 9mm too? Is it all glocks that have this unsupported barrel or only certain models/years?

Now my next question comes to tailoring rounds to a specific gun. I can easily pump out "factory spec ammo" based on book specs, but what i really want to learn is how to make the absolute best round for each of my guns. I've done some basic reading on this and it looks like there are MANY factors you need to take into account (barrel harmonics, head space, etc). Can someone point me in the direction of some reading materials for this subject?

I literally have no idea where to start with making gun specific rounds, what tools i would need etc. The general idea i have in my head is that you figure out some safe ranges for each thing that can change, then you make a batches of ammo and change one thing slightly, then go shoot and figure out where in that range you should be. Tweak the next batch, etc until you figure out the perfect settings FOR THAT GUN. Am i on the right track here?

Still in the learning stage at this point, I have alot more reading to do before i even attempt to reload a round. My first step will be to completely tear down the presses and clean them, re-assemble and run dry until i have a firm understanding of the equipment.

I plan on reloading the following:
- 9mm
- 40cal
- 45 cal
- 223/556
- 308 (for AR10)


Any other pointers or essential reading would be much appreciated!

Thanks :)
 
First, I'd suggest some reading, and The ABCs of Reloading is an excellent start. Careful about what you read in forums and ignore youtube for now. There are other texts available but The ABCs is the most often recommended.

Tumbling is prolly the most talked about but least important part of reloading and some folks get into virgin looking, glossy shiny brass and that has very little to do with safe, accurate ammo. For now just use your vibrating cleaner with some walnut media to clean your brass (but even that isn't necessary. I reloaded 12 years before I tumbled my brass. I just wiped my cases with a solvent dampened rag as I inspected it. No ruined dies or chambers and I could easily spot defects). BTW dry media tumbling either in a vibrating tumbler or a rotary tumbler is not antiquated! The SS pins in a solution is a newer trend right now, but remember for a new reloader K.I.S.S. (getting into advanced reloading methods and theory right off often leads to confusion and frustration).

If your 45 is a 45 ACP, that's prolly the easiest round to start with. Find a tried and true load in your manual(s) before you buy components and start with the "starting loads" (for 45 ACP try a 230 gr Jacketed Round Nose with a fast powder like Bullseye or W231). Research and learn the "Plunk Test" as an inspection of your reloads https://www.google.com/search?q=the...rome..69i57.5675j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Don't get ahead of yourself and don't overthink the process. Bizillions upon bizillions of rounds have been reloaded so you don't have to come up with anything new and info is available everywhere...

Go slow double, check everything, and most important, have fun...
 
Thanks for the quick response, i will be picking up a copy of that book!

Right now i just have the following books that came with my package deal:

Hornady Handbook of Cartridge reloading Edition 8
Hornady Handbook of Cartridge reloading Edition 10
Speer Bullets Reloading Manual #14

Do things change much between editions? I really only shoot "common" rounds and 99% of the stuff in these books are found rounds i never even knew existed!
 
Here is everything i got in the deal:

- Hornady Lock-n-Load progressive press
- Shell plates #8, #45, #10, #1
- Hornady Titanium Nitrite Dies - 9mm, 40cal/10mm, 45cal, 308/30-06cal
- Lee Reloader press with 40cal bulge buster kit
- Case Gauges - 9mm, 40cal, 45cal
- Cabelas Mod400 Tumbler with walnut media and sifting tray
- Frankford Arsenal Tumbler with SS Media & pickup magnet
- Cabelas Mod XT1500 electric scale
- Cabelas dial caliper (i also have a Kobalt digital one)
- Lyman hand case trimming system
- Bullet puller for press
- Powder Cop for press
- RCBS media sperator
- primer trays
- 600 Large pistol primers
- 900 large rifle primers
- universal loading trays
- ammo boxes



Bullets:
750 - 9mm
750 - 40cal
750 - 45cal
50 - 30cal rifle
400 - 45cal Hornady XTP 185gr

Brass (clean/deprimed):
1000 - 9mm
500 - 40cal

Powder:
- 2lbs Hogdgons Titegroup
- 2lbs UNIQUE Powder
- 1lbs Hodgons 800x powder
 
Now my next question comes to tailoring rounds to a specific gun. I can easily pump out "factory spec ammo" based on book specs, but what i really want to learn is how to make the absolute best round for each of my guns. I've done some basic reading on this and it looks like there are MANY factors you need to take into account (barrel harmonics, head space, etc). Can someone point me in the direction of some reading materials for this subject?
Click to expand...

Here. Some sites can help.

Why would you tear down a press? If its working then use it. You won't learn anything about reloading form tearing things down (mechanic maybe)

You mix up book specs with re-load specs.

You want to jump to advanced while you are still learning.

Book spec ammo is the way to start.

Head space is irrelevant.

You can't do anything about harmonic other than get a heavy barrel rifle (if you don't hunt) - luck of the draw.

We need to know how good a shooter you are (factory ammo)

If you can't shoot 1 to 1.5 inch with factory, then you have a poor gun or need to learn to shoot.

Hard to separate that out, so we need to know what gun (S) you have.

We all start with the basics, once you have that down, then the answers begin to make sense.
 
Hard to separate that out, so we need to know what gun (S) you have.
Click to expand...

Sorry i am all over the place, just trying to get all my questions down as they pop into my head. Just trying to learn as much as possible before i even attempt to reload an actual round.

Current guns:

- HK USP 40cal
- Walther P99 compact (9mm)
- Glock 9mm (i forget the model, its a full size though not compact, not my gun)
- S&W MP 45cal full size
- AR15 (various builds)
- AR10


I am just getting into shooting frequently so i still have alot of learning to do in that department as well. On a good day i can shoot a 1.5inch group with my AR15, pistols still need some work though... That's the main reason i got the presses so i can start shooting alot more and get better. If i don't practice consistently then i'm never going to improve.
 
"...barrel harmonics, head space, etc..." Pretty much have nothing to do with it. Neither does what firearm. Except that semi-autos, lever actions and pump actions require Full Length resizing every time. And you will have to work up a load for each firearm. It's highly unlikely your Walther and Glock will shoot the same load the same way, but you might get lucky.
Plus checking case lengths(you need a vernier calipre anyway and it can be set to a specific length and be used as a case length gauge.) and watching Over All Lengths(OAL). New rifle brass will need checking the lengths and chamfering the inside of the case mouth. All this will be covered in your manual or the ABC's of Reloading.
Read your manual and follow its directions religiously and you'll be fine.
Reloading is not rocket science nor particularly complicated despite appearances. The most important part is getting the dies set up correctly. The bottom of all the dies should just be kissed by the shell holder with the ram all the way up then locked with the set screw. Then, in the sizer die, the decapper gets turned down until the pin just pops out the old primer and locked in place. The bullet seater also gets run down to give the OAL given in your manual. Forget the whole off-the-lands stuff(doesn't apply to hand gun loading either) until you have worked up a load.
Suggest you work up one load at a time.
"...the following books..." Those will do, but the Hornady Book 10 is newer(mostly about more loads for newer bullet weights. Lotta the data will be the same.) All powder and bullet makers books only have data for their products. The Lyman book is far more versatile. More loads using more bullet weights than any powder or bullet makers book.
Loading is done by the bullet weight too. Not the brand or construction/shape of the bullet. So you do not require bullet specific data. You do need different data for cast/plated(plated bullets are not jacketed and use cast bullet data) and jacketed bullets(get really expensive, fast, out of handguns. The XTP's run about $24 per 100. Cast are your friend. Cast 185's run about $46 per 500.). Be in your manual so that's not a big deal. Solid copper bullets use their own data too.
"...pistols still need some work though..." Takes upper body toning to shoot handguns well.
"...If you can't shoot 1 to 1.5 inch with factory..." Isn't necessarily the shooter or the rifle. If you're not reloading, you must try a box of as many brands as you can to find the ammo your firearm shoots best. S'why we reload.
Few commercial hunting rifles are capable of 1 or 1.5 MOA anyway. And they don't need to be. As long as you can keep every shot on a 9" pie plate at 100 yards, off hand, you're good for hunting.
 
Let me start by 1st welcoming you to the group! Some fine people here with excellent knowledge to get you on your way and help out when needed.

Looks like a fine list of equipment you have acquired and should cover you well.

Some no doubt question the intelligence of starting to learn hand loading on a progressive press as it adds difficulty to the process and learning curve. But that is the equipment you have so use it or look for and add a single stage press.

1st thing to do is read and then read some more. Also study the loading data for the rounds you are interested in working with. Study the powders that are used, what levels they are used at, their burn rates, how they develop pressure and what bullet speeds they develop. Start with that 45 as it will be the easiest.

Then you'll want to assemble your equipment and set up an area in which to work. It can be as simple or elaborate as your space and budget will allow. Just set it up to suite you as you are the one working in that space.

You will want a strong, sturdy bench for the press with enough room to comfortably manage all the other tools and supplies that will be needed and used.

Next you will want to establish a process. A very repeatable process, one that if something gets out of order you will quickly realize it. It helps prevent mistakes and can help avoid a terrible accident. Set a procedure from start to finish for each step along the way. Make notes if you have to.

Lastly, resist the urge to get ahead of yourself. Take the time and learn the process. Learn the tools and learn the guns and ammo they shoot.

As was stated earlier, pick a cartridge to start with and stick with it for a while. Develop that cartridge for yourself to were it performs the way you want it to. Then make changes to it to understand what those changes did. When that is all done and you feel comfortable then move on to the next cartridge.

Enjoy your new hobby and above all else stay safe.
 
Couple of things...

a. You have a good press, the LNL will do everything you need to do / no need to add an additional press..single stage or other. You can learn on it just fine.../ you just have to learn each stage and what each one does...trust nothing --- check, verify, check again...

b. Print a copy of the LNL manual ...read it carefully and thoroughly. Treat it as the "gospel"...and understand each step...1, 2, 3..thru 40 or 50, .etc....and if step 15 confuses you, go back to step 1 and start over. You have to read it and understand it as a "technical manual" and every stage is critical. Read it twice thru carefully...before you do anything...then get into it in detail.

c. Start with an easy caliber...either .45 acp or 9mm.....stay away from higher pressure calibers like the .40 S&W for awhile.

d. Use recipe's from the books, or online, like from Hodgdon powder company. Take the Min and Max seriously ...do not go below the published Min or above the published Max. Load something midrange between the 2 to start.

e. Don't worry about optimizing for a gun ...especially a handgun ...it is really not your goal. Your goal is safe and consistent ammo....and to have some fun with the process.

f. Establish good procedures - keep your bench clean and organized -- bolt the loader firmly to the bench / bench tops need to be think so they do not flex causing the loader to bounce ( 3/4" plywood flexes too much )...go thicker. Bench made of 2 X 10's with a 3/4" plywood overlay would work..and sturdy legs/ 4X4 or steel work...and good task light...

g. Use both tumblers...they both work / pick the one you like the best. I'm not a stainless pin fan...but they work. ( standard vibrating tumbler and walnut shell media works best for me).

h. Get a Case Gague .... it represents the chamber of your barrel...and basically you drop a finished round in ...and if it drops in and drops out clean..the round is good to go ( if its not too long, and primer is set properly ). I case gague every round - before I box them up. Its a great tool...to verify your finished rounds.

i. Learn about the "powder cop" on your press...make you really understand how to set it up and how it should work. Use it !!
 
Will add another thought,
You are not "on the clock", there is no boss standing over your shoulder, no rate to make. You are not in a race so take your time, get comfortable and work towards gaining confidence in your work and your equipment. Ask questions, even the little ones.
 
Lots of different methods to clean your brass, and none are considered 'antiquated' really.

As others have already stated, try to start with .45 auto or 9mm (of the calibers you stated you'll be shooting). Save the higher pressure calibers for when you've got some experience. Just follow the reloading manuals for charges and bullets, etc. Should be easy as 1-2-3.

Note: with primers, in general, any small pistol primer will work; it's not necessary to use a CCI/Federal/Remington/whatever small pistol primer or whatever the manual states. As long as it's a standard small pistol primer (sometimes referred to as "SPP"), it'll be safe to use. Same deal with large pistol primers (LPP). It's a little different when loading magnums or rifle cartridges.

Minor note: you don't need the bulge buster thing either.

But you have a great pile of stuff there to begin, certainly more than I had when I started. One last note: don't get too frustrated when you make a mistake - in fact expect to make some mistakes in the beginning. Just make sure you're careful and catch your mistakes. That's how you learn. Enjoy the process.

Oh, and if you don't have one, get a bullet puller. Sooner or later you're going to need it.
 
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Looks like a nice list of good high quality equipment. But I would make one suggestion, get a good high quality balance beam type scale. A good one for a pretty fair price is the RCBS 505, especially an older used one in good shape. Too many issues with electronic scales but a good balance scale used properly will never let you down.
 
Buy a couple of good data manuals (make one the LYMAN) and READ the extremely valuable information that is available in addition to the data.
 
The best advice I could give is exercise *patience*, and books. The most important tool is between the ears, and it needs to be honed before playing with the new toys.

Read The ABC's, then read it again- make sure to understand points you are unsure of. And I would get Lee's "Modern Reloading" as well. The introduction is practical and thorough.
 
@flashhole - yes i got off craigslist, from what i have been told by a friend who has been reloading for years i got a good deal for everything

@jetinteriorguy - thanks for suggestion, i was on the hunt for a beam scale anyway as digital can always die on your but not a beam scale!

@all others - thanks for the helpful tips, still need to build a solid bench to mount the presses on so i still have plenty of time to do reading before i start the process. I also plan on being very methodical for a while, measuring every single bullet i make until i am confident in my skills, no need to rush when a mistake can cost you life or limb(s).
 
LocknLoader:

First, welcome to a fun and rewarding hobby (and also frustrating, expensive, and often time consuming).

I have been reloading on my own for about 10 years. There are many people on this forum who have been reloading for longer than I have been alive (34 years)...The internet is a great place to get information, both good and bad information. The problem when you are new, like you are, is you do not know enough to know what advice is garbage and what isn't.

So despite what I just said about garbage advice, I will reiterate a few things already said. Read some reloading manuals, if you follow what they tell you, you will stay safe. This hobby is perfectly safe provided you adopt safe procedures. In my 10 years I have not yet had any kind of catastrophic failure.

Do not go outside of the manuals guidelines. You will see posts online, by me included, who goes above the published max...but there is often more going on there than you are aware of yet. When I started, I made some very accurate ammo for MY guns staying within published maximum/minimum limits.

Buy components in bulk...its cheaper that way.

I have both a stainless steel tumbler and a dry media tumbler. The stainless steel wet tumbler is great for very dirty brass and to get the inside of the brass clean. The dry media tumblers put a nice polish on the brass making it look brand new. I clean all my brass, some don't.

Read the manual on your progressive press....but honestly, i would start out making batches on a single stage press. Almost everyone who begins reloading begins on a single stage press.

Why begin on a single stage press? 1: it slows you down so that you get to see and learn exactly what happens during every step of the process. 2: it slows you down so that you can inspect your brass, measure it, check it for defects. 3: it slows you down so that you can make sure you are charging with the correct amount of powder. 4 it slows you down so that you can make sure your bullet is properly seated, and crimped if you are crimping.

Im not saying don't use the Hornady LnL....Im just saying make several batches on a single stage first doing every step in the process one at a time.
You said you already have a single stage press, use it. Then, maybe after a while, when you have proven you can make safe and reliable loads on a single stage, try it on the progressive.

Good luck
 
Thanks Mississippi, i think that's pretty much my plan at the moment since i have a single stage Lee press as well. Start out on that, then move over to the LnL once i'm familiar with the process and confident in my abilities.


So a few more questions i guess:

1. What are some "good brands" of brass? Also what makes some brass cheap vs other? What kind of corners are being cut in the manufacturing process that would make some brass inferior to others?

2. I noticed some surface rust on some of the exterior parts of the dies and press. Guessing this does not affect anything other than aesthetics, can i scrub it down and give it a coating of oil or something to keep it nice? I plan on getting some graphite powder to lube up my powder thrower and i already have some rubbing alcohol to wipe everything down.
 
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