Newbie gun choice help

Wecome and thanks for asking our advice

My recommendation is for a 22 rimfire of good accuracy and decent sights.

semi-automatics:
Ruger Mark I, II or current model III
or Browning Buckmark or
Smith & Wesson Model 41

Revolvers that come immediately to mind are:
Ruger SP101
Ruger Single-Six
Smith & Wesson's K-Frame K-22 "Masterpiece" (I had one a while back)
Smith & Wesson 617
Taurus (I forget the model #)

Here's my reasoning:

1 Practice is important for becoming a good shot. Practice (beyond dry firing) takes ammo. Ammo is cheaper for a 22 than for any other caliber. Example: 22 rimfire costs (around here) $20 - $30 per 500. 500 rounds of 9mm (a very inexpensive round) is at least $100 to $150 per 500.

2 Practice with a round that has almost no recoil makes concentration on sight picture, breathing and trigger control much easier without the distraction of recoil and excessive muzzle blast. You can add those elements later after you have gotten the basics ingrained in your subconscious. If you start out with a hard-recoiling round you are almost certain to develop anticipation (usually characterized by a flinch) which is devilishly hard to cure. Prevention is much easier to, especially while you are learning.

3 Having a good, accurate 22 will put you on the range (if you go to a formal or informal shooting range) where you will get acquainted with other shooters, see their gun handling practices and see their guns. Most gun owners are proud of their hardware and if you exhibit good safety practices, a modicum of shooting skill and a little bit of polite interest, they will very probably let you handle their guns and even send a few rounds downrange. You can get to try out a wide variety of guns that way and collect testimonials from people other than salesmen when you go to a store.

4 Most (accurate) 22 rimfire guns are cheaper to buy than similarly accurate centerfire guns and hold their resale value well.

I also recommend you visit a web site owned by one of the administrators on The Firing Line, "Pax". It is principally written for women new to guns, but most of the information there is EQUALLY applicable to either gender. "New to guns" is "new to guns" whether male or female.
http://www.corneredcat.com/Contents/

Good luck. Thanks for reading.

Lost Sheep
 
A 1911 requires a more hands on type owner... (or it has the potential for that) As the 1911 has some quirks about it. You may get a gun that fires anything reliably, or you may get one that is ammo picky, or magazine picky.

All semi-autos function similarly on the outside, but inside they differ widely... The 1911 is fairly simple internally, its just the knowledge needed for when they do not run correctly that is the big hangup and experience helps.

The 1911 is too big for CCW purposes, for the most part anyway. It can be done, but not very easily.

A single action trigger like on a 1911 is not a good option for a beginner if they want to use it for defense. Nervous inexperienced hands and a light short trigger do not mix well.

There are "compact" (not really very compact... I would call them small full size pistols, as opposed to large full size pistols like the 1911) they can be CCW with some care, and make good home defense pistols. The XD/XDM, M&P and some Glock models fit this category.

Sub-compact pistols are better for CCW, but are not best for home defense and the range. (though you should practice with them if you carry them) Harder to hold on to, harder to aim, less accurate overall, and added recoil are all reasons.

(here is a copy/paste of a reply I did for someone else, it may repeat a few things)

First some thoughts on what to think about to help focus your direction/choice:

What you want the pistol for is an important consideration. Competition, home defense, general plinking... its important.

For one, 22lr is just not a good choice for defense. Its better than nothing, but a good centerfire caliber is much better. .380 and up preferably for a primary defense round. (some even exclude the 380 from primary defense status) The .25 is not considered much better than the 22lr (but is generally more reliable being centerfire) the .32 can serve but many feel it too is not good as a primary caliber. (they can all serve in the backup role, but some choose the smallest 9mm they can for that purpose instead)

Plinking and just shooting for fun can be done with either competition or defense focused firearms if you so choose. A 22lr gun is fun and cheap to shoot, but beyond plinking and small varmint hunting, are limited in the role they play.

A full blown competition gun is not really a good choice for home defense. Light competition triggers are not a good idea when the adrenaline is flowing, especially for those new to firearms. They also tend to cost a lot more than basic guns.

Rifles and shotguns are better for home defense from a stopping power standpoint, but they are larger and can be unwieldy in narrow halls and doorways. Also over penetration becomes a concern. A shotgun is a little better in that regard, as #4 buck shot is a good combination of stopping power/penetration without over penetrating walls and the like. A basic Mossburg 500 series shotgun can be had for less than $300 and target shells for practice are cheap.

You are in the handgun section so I will assume you want a handgun.

We will stick to the big three calibers for simplicity. (9mm, 40s&w, 45acp)

Of the big three, 9mm is the cheapest to shoot, 45 is the most expensive, with 40 in the middle. Other calibers (380, 32, 25, 10mm, etc) tend to run as much or more than 45acp. (for example .380 cost is about the same as 45, maybe a little less, 10mm is much more expensive)

9mm has the lightest recoil, followed by 40, and 45 having the highest. (I personally don't feel the 45 has too much recoil, but that's subjective to me, and I am an experienced shooter)

The 45acp cartridge is also much longer than the 9mm and 40 (not to mention larger diameter) this means that any pistol that fires 45 will need to be larger in size to hold it. (well for double stack designs. single stack designs like the 1911 tend to be slimmer) This size increase can be a problem for some people due to hand size and other factors.

22lr is of course very cheap to shoot if you get the bulk packs, and has little to no recoil, but as mentioned it is not a good choice for defense use.

Which caliber to choose? Well, if its for defense... there is really no right or wrong when using quality ammo. Shot placement and adequate penetration are the most important things. Some want the biggest holes, others like the lower recoil, and yet others choose the 40 as they feel it is a good combination of the different factors. (40 is my personal choice, but my fiance's pistol is 9mm) One way of thinking is that even with quality hollowpoints, proper expansion is never guaranteed, and that bigger is better for that reason. (along with adequate penetration) The choice is usually personal, as the numbers/statistics only give slight differences between the 3 calibers effectiveness.

If cost is a concern, then 9mm may be the way to go. Check prices locally and online for the different calibers and then figure out your budget. The more practice you can get/afford the better.

Any pistol that offers a 22 conversion would be a good way to go to allow for both cheap 22 plinking and larger caliber defense use. Just be sure to practice with the large caliber regularly.

You also need to choose a good hollowpoint ammo and put several rounds of it through the gun to ensure the gun runs reliability with it. Bare minimum would be 50 rounds, but 100+ would be preferred. (some would say a few hundred is needed) Plus a healthy dose of target ammo for familiarity with the function and recoil.

Being a first gun, you probably do not have a preference between striker or hammer fired action, or DA/SA (Double action/Single action), DAO (Double action only), decocker/safety, or SA (Single action). So that means you can choose whatever you find feels best in the hand, as a good solid grip is important. If you don't feel confident in your grip on the gun, you will not shoot well.

Some argue that for defense guns you want a gun without an external manual safety. You want a striker fired like the XD/XDM or Glock, with their internal safety features... or a DAO or DA/SA with a decocker. One less thing to worry about in their opinion. Under stress one might forget to disengage the manual safety. Also it is felt that SA guns are not good for beginners as defensive guns. In addition to the manual safety... The short and lighter trigger pull requires a practiced hand when under stress, as it can be much easier to accidentally pull the trigger.

Another important factor:

You also need to consider your budget. Not only will you need to pay for the gun itself and some ammo to start with, (plus range fees) but you will need some basic gear as well. Like hearing protection, eye protection, a cleaning kit and supplies.

200 rounds of 9mm target ammo will run around $50 at Walmart, you might find better deals if you look around. Hearing protection and safety glasses, a basic setup of one each is about $20 more if you want better quality. (some ranges will let you borrow this stuff, but getting your own eventually is a good idea) You can get a cheap cleaning kit for under $10, but spend a little more and get a better kit. (I have had cheap bore brushes separate in barrels, not good) You can get a basic kit from Otis for around $30, spend a little more and get some good cleaner and oil/lubricant to go with it. I personally use Hoppe's #9 for basic cleaning, and a foaming bore cleaner for the barrel. Hoppe's is fairly cheap, and the foaming cleaner varies by make. For lubrication, I use a quality oil for the trigger group and a quality grease for slide rails and barrel lugs. You may need to pick up a pack of cleaning patches as well, those are cheap. If you get the Otis kit, you do not need to use their special patches, you can make normal patches work with it.

The debate on cleaning and lubrication techniques is a whole different can of worms... But as a general rule, its accepted that you can't really go wrong with CLP. The spray version tends to creep into nooks and crannies better, and the liquid seems a little thicker for areas were it needs to stay put. (at least the Breakfree brand stuff I bought did) The good thing about CLP is that is can be used as a decent cleaner too, I just find it lacking for cleaning barrel bores. (It cleans, but I find it slower than the dedicated cleaners)

As far as some choices to get you started...

I really like the CZ75, (or the ambidextrous version CZ85) in fact I own two. Its a quality pistol at a reasonable price, (basic versions run around $550 with fancy finishes like stainless costing a little more... but the basic black is the toughest) and its an all steel gun if that matters to you. All steel makes the gun heavier than polymer, but the extra weight helps lessen felt recoil. Also the low bore axis of the CZ and its overall design help lessen recoil as well. Many feel the CZ is one of the best feeling pistols in your hand. The trigger is really nice, it can be heavy, but it smooths out nice. A competent gunsmith can do a basic trigger job that really smooths and lightens the trigger. (I did mine myself, and added a slightly lighter hammer spring) Its DA/SA and you can get it with a decocker or safety. (the manual safety version can be decocked by hand, but I suggest lots of practice to learn to do it safely) CZ also offers a 22 conversion (but it isn't cheap, its an extra $250) They offer it in 9mm and 40s&w... I own both... I found them both to be reliable, but the 40 version did have a few teething issues during the first few hundred rounds. (a couple failures to feed and one failure to extract) I would choose the 9mm for a beginner, mostly for the fact that it was designed around the 9mm originally and mine proved 100% reliable without any tweaking by me. There is also a 45acp version, the CZ97, it is basically a beefed up (read: larger) version of the CZ75. (I'm babbling... but I really like these pistols)

EAA Witness is a CZ clone that is a bit cheaper and they offer caliber conversions for cheap, but they use the larger frame size like the CZ97. This allows the one pistol to convert from 9mm up to 45 and even 10mm easy (even has 22lr available) you just need the conversion kit. Personally, I can shoot the larger frame, but I prefer the smaller frame of the CZ75.

I am also a fan of the XD/XDM series of pistols, built tough, accurate, handles well. I owned one in 40s&w and it ran flawlessly, and I loved it. Yet another gun I highly recommend, decent trigger, but not great, accurate, and felt nice in the hand. I do like its ergonomics a lot, especially the XDM version. Its a polymer gun, but its a little heavier than a Glock. It was my CCW for a while. They are also nicely priced, depending on model a basic version is around $500-650. They offer variants in 9mm, 40, 45, and 357 sig.

Glocks are good guns, I just am not a fan personally. (Ergonomics, grip size, and other personal reasons) I think they start out around $550-600. They come in all the major calibers as well.

The Sig 2022 is fairly inexpensive, (I have found it NIB for $350 before) feels good in the hand, (to me) and I have read good things about it. It only includes one magazine though. It has a 9mm and a 40s&w version.

I like the Sig P266 and its derivatives, they feel great in my hand, have great triggers, but they can be expensive. You can find certified used versions for around $600, you just need to search around to find one that was used very little. Not easy for a beginner to do, you need experience in knowing normal wear from damage, slight use from heavy use and the like. Preferably a German made version... people seem to not like the US made ones. There is also the P250, I am not a fan of it, but many seem to like it, and they are reasonable in price. They offer several calibers, most are in 9mm and 40 due to frame size.

I do not recommend a 1911 as a first gun. While the platform is a good one, but as was mentioned, the Single action trigger needs an experienced user or a lot of practice if you are wanting to use it as a defensive gun. Also the cheaper ones might not be as reliable out of the box, and even the more expensive ones may need tweaking. It just needs a more active/experienced user.

The Browning High Power is a good shooting and feeling pistol (similar to the CZ in feel) but is SA, so probably not a good first choice, unless you are willing to get ample practice/training.

All the above mentioned firearms come in basic versions, enhanced versions (with either a defense or competition focus), and full blown competition versions.

Now for a little insight into what I did when training my fiance to shoot for the first time:

First... I was with her... I think that is important, having a willing experienced friend (preferably very experienced and/or had good training) or going to a class with a qualified instructor. Having someone there with experience will help you learn the basics and the common mistakes/bad habits to avoid from the beginning.

I helped her learn sight picture and alignment, proper grip and stance, trigger control, and how to avoid flinch. I also taught her the basics of firearms. (and she also started looking it up online on her own)

Second... my experience allowed me to noticed little bad habits and problem areas right away... Any flinch, sight alignment/picture issues, trigger control... things that a person new to firearms will usually have issues with when starting out.

I had a simple fix for that.

We had a simple cheap spring powered single shot airsoft pistol at the house, I set up a box with a target and let her practice. Basic sight alignment/picture was really helped, and then with a little coaching before she started practice with the airsoft, and over a couple range trips, flinching was eliminated and trigger control was improved. It didn't take very much practicing with the BB gun to see a great deal of improvement.

So I do think that someone who is completely new to shooting can benefit from BB guns or 22lr shooting. Especially in the areas of trigger control and sight picture/alignment. You reduce or eliminate the heavy recoil and muzzle blast/noise and its much easier to focus on the fundamentals of shooting.

Third... Aim small, miss small... use the right target when first starting out.

Everyone likes to use those silhouette targets, but they are poor choices for someone who is first starting out. A large monotone target... They are very poor for learning sight alignment/picture for beginners.

Target-human_silhouette.png


You see that... no contrast, the color may make seeing the sights against the target harder, meaning alignment is more difficult, and even if you can see the sights well, its harder to get consistant sight picture with the sights pointed in the same spot on the target every time.

crosshairbullseye.jpg


See that target... it has a definite point of aim in the center, that makes sight alignment/picture much easier for beginners.

After you get the basics down... you can use whatever target you want.

This seemed to work well for her. She has only been shooting for a few months now, and we don't get to shoot as often as we want. (around twice a month, about an hour, a few hundred rounds at most) She gets a lot of compliments on her shooting from the range officers whenever we go. It makes her real happy to get them and she is really loving shooting. She has her own pistol, (a CZ75B 9mm) a 10/22, and she wants an AR-10 next... really an AR-10... big jump up I know, but she saw one and fell in love. She got to shoot one and wasn't put off by the power either. I also made the mistake of letting her shoot a 1911 one day (rental) so now we have to get one of those as well. Not that I am complaining. Been wanting to get one for years.
 
Welcome to TFL, hoopster3!

Let me start out by saying that I'm a big fan of the 1911, and of the .45 acp round. The 1911 is on the large side for CC, but it can be done. You just have to plan for carrying. For example, you'll need to plan for a good holster, a gun belt, and clothes suitable for the task.

I do not find the recoil of a .45 to be bad at all, but that's a very subjective evaluation, and depends a lot on the firearm. For example, .45 out of a full-sized (Gov't), all-steel 1911 is not uncomfortable in the slightest. OTOH, if I were shooting the same caliber out of a subcompact polymer-framed pistol, I can certainly imagine that it would be a little on the unpleasant side (to put it mildly). 9mm is a significantly cheaper round, and (IMO) capable enough for SD purposes. The .22, however, is far and away cheaper than either of the above. That gets you way, way more trigger time for the cost as 9mm, or (especially) .45. Don't underestimate the value of that trigger time.

I'll also add that you should perhaps not be so quick to discount a revolver as a first gun. There are certain advantages to revolvers, which shouldn't be overlooked. The following is a list of my opinions on the matter, and nothing more.

Revolver Pros:
  • No real worries about jamming on extraction/ejection
  • No feed problems
  • Tend to be less finicky about ammo
  • Some will chamber more than one caliber (A .357 Mag will chamber .38 Spl, for example.)
  • Can be left loaded for very long periods without concern for springs. (I'll leave the issue of whether such concern is actually warranted in semi-autos to those who know more about the engineering than I.)

Revolver Cons:
  • Slower reloads
  • Very simple operation
  • If (for some reason) it goes "click," when it should go "bang," just pull the trigger again (if you have double-action, of course). No need to work the slide to get a new round to chamber. (In a self- or home defense situation, you cannot really assume that you'll have both hands free to work the slide.)

Good luck on your search, and as a final note, I will just add that this is a very good plan:
hoopster3 said:
. . . .My plan is to take a safety course in the near future to be better informed . . . .
 
Gut check time!....

This may be hard to take but if you are new to firearms & shooting sports, I highly suggest buying a simple, well made robust .357magnum or 4" barrel LE trade in .38spl +P revolver(like a model 10 or a 64) that is DA only(no hammer cocking or "light trigger" pulls).
A new or NIB(new in box) DA only wheelgun like a Ruger SP101 or a GP100(converted to DA only) or maybe a S&W 686+ 7 round .357magnum are safe, easy to clean, and can fire either .38spl or magnum ammunition.
You can rent or shoot different brands of revolvers/semi auto pistols to see what does best for you but as stated, I'd start with a simple DA only revolver.
As for training, take a workshop or class with a good instructor/program. Know & understand the local gun-use of force laws. Only use factory ammunition for protection. No cheap reloads or handloaded ammunition. See www.nra.org www.gunvideo.com www.paladin-press.com www.brownells.com www.natchezss.com www.galls.com www.gunlawguide.com www.handgunlaw.us .
Keep your firearm(s) clean & secure them properly when not in use.
 
Gentlemen,

I have taken into consideration all the feedback I have been given by the people on this forum with much more knowledge than I have. After much deliberation I have decided to start myself off with a .22 as suggested by a few members. I have decided to do this to first use it as a learning experience to begin shooting and form better habits as well as being able to afford more ammo which will equate to more shooting time.

Having said that I have handled a few guns at a local store and have decided to chose between a 3600 Ruger SR 22 and a Smith and Wesson M&P 22. Of these two guns is there one that anytone would recommend over the other? I believe both come from quality gun makers and both should suit my needs for price and practice. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
 
Either would work... Their advantage is their similarity in design and function to larger pistols, especially in the longer trigger pull vs the lighter trigger of other 22 pistols. Pick which feels best to you and fits the budget. (I believe they are similar in price though) I have heard that they can be less reliable than the target style pistols. (like the Mark III, Buckmark, or the like) Whether that is true or just limited to a few problem examples or even poor ammo, I am not sure.

They do cost more that a basic Ruger Mark III or 22/45. (I have found Mark III NIB for a little less than $250, the 22/45 for around $275 or a little less)

I suggest you use round nose lead type ammo. I find it much more reliable than the 22 hollowpoint ammo. At least when it comes to cheap bulk pack ammo, as CCI minimags tend to run great. I think it comes down to the hardness of the lead used. The round nose and Minimags (or other quality hollowpoints) seam to use harder lead than the cheap bulk pack hollowpoints. I found in my 22 that the softer lead deforms easier and can cause feed jams.

I have been running the CCI Blazer bulk pack RNL with no feed issues.

Here is a question... what is your budget? Can you get 2 guns now, or a 22 pistol now and a centerfire pistol in a couple months? Can you afford a decent centerfire pistol and a 22 conversion kit for it right now?

If you can afford it, a pistol with an available 22 conversion is a very good option. Cheap plinking using the same frame and trigger as your full size caliber.

22 is very fun to shoot, especially if you can get several magazines and have them all loaded up ready to go, but if you find that you really enjoy shooting, you will find you want a larger caliber after only a few trips to the range.

My fiance sure did... After her 9mm pistol we got for her a couple months ago she wants bigger... I mean an AR-10 is what she has picked as her next gun... a freaking .308 (7.62x51) for crying out loud! She is skipping the .223 (5.56) completely. She even wants it in a DMR setup. (designated marksman rifle)

Also... If you really like shooting and think a rifle may be an option in the future... I feel no one should be without a Ruger 10/22. A basic version runs $200, and a few Ruger brand 25 round mags makes for a fun time. Knock down some tin cans or empty the mag quick into a steel gong. You can shoot for a couple hours straight and only spend $20 in ammo. (just like a 22 pistol)
 
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hoopster3

Newbie gun choice help
Hey guys! I'm very new to the gun scene. My plan is to take a safety course in the near future to be better informed. I've been researching different handguns and have decided that I don't want a revolver but would instead like a semi-automatic. My initial desire is to own a weapon to protect my family at home but will also be used at the range and sometime in the future to even possibly carry.

As I've done some research I find that I'm drawn to .45 ACP 1911. Will this be a good choice based on my needs?

I do not share the opinion that a full size 1911 is difficult to carry concealed. On the contrary, a 1911 is relatively thin which makes it easy to carry concealed.

I have been carrying one for the last 30 years usually in a inside the waistband holster. I am 5'10" and my weight has ranged from 170 - 190 over those years. A good gun belt is useful to stabilize the load.

One feature of the 1911 that I find to be the best of all handguns is the trigger. It is short, crisp and always the same.

Approach the process of choosing a handgun for your needs as a learning process. The more you learn the more questions you will see. Consider that all defensive handguns are under powered compared to full power rifles or a 12ga shotgun. Handguns are a compromise that is "good enough"; small and light enough that it is endured by the person carrying it. Therefore, it is likely to be there when needed. Part of your consideration in choosing which gun and which cartridge you will bet your life on should recognize that handgun bullets delivered to center of mass may not stop a determined threat for many seconds. You need to take that into consideration when you train.
 
Taurus 45

I would suggest the Taurus 45. You will get a lot of the custom 45 parts for a price that is well within reason. Check them out before you get less gun for the same money.
 
hoopster,
Good call on the .22LR. Either of those are good choices I think. I've only been at this a few months myself. My first gun was .357, and I immediately bought a .22 when I realized how much it was going to cost me to shoot the .357 at the range. I choose the Ruger Mark III and I'm pretty happy with it. Both of the guns you mentioned are also fine guns. I still shoot the .22 way more than anything else, and I don't think I'll ever get tired of it.

If you are like me at all, you will find that you enjoy shooting. I really have a lot of fun every time I go to the range. My wife tells me that I come back from the range happy -- I assure that's not usually the case when I play golf!. :)
 
I shoot my 22 more as well.

I will go through most of a bulk pack of 22 every trip, and about 150-200 rounds through my two CZs and my 9mm carbine combined.
 
Wise choice Grasshopper,,,

Wise choice Grasshopper,,,
A decent DA/SA .22 will serve you well.

...have decided to chose between a 3600 Ruger SR 22 and a Smith and Wesson M&P 22. Of these two guns is there one that anytone would recommend over the other?

Either of the guns you have chosen should give you years of use,,,
My suggestion to you is to have them both on the counter,,,
Handle them and choose the one that best fits your hand.

Of the two I would prefer the Ruger,,,
It's a bit smaller than the S&W M&P 22,,,
But that's personal preference it's not advice.

Have fun and shoot a lot.

Aarond

.
 
+1 for the Browning Buckmark. I love that .22 to death. Cheap to shoot, little recoil, and accurate. I could spend all day on it.
 
The more you spend on a 1911 the more you will like it over the years. That being said one of the popular plastic pistols will serve you well at a quarter of the price. 9mm is a better choice to start with. The 9mm ammo to practice with is less and with the latest hollow points very effective. The Ruger Mk or 22/45 series pistols are cheap to buy easy and cheap to work on and last and last with minimum upkeep. I had to add don't believe any ones comment on the 1911 being hard to learn on. They are easy to learn on, and a high quality 1911 is probably the nicest shooting pistol you can buy.
 
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I applied for my permit to purchase last week. I called today and they said it was in and they closed at 4:30. I went to pick it up and the lady at the counter said "we're done today". To which I asked, "done with what?"

Unfortunately, they stop taking money at 4:00, even though they are open until 4:30. The time when I glanced at the clock......was 4:03. Since I can't make it in tomorrow before 4:00 I guess I'll have to wait until sometime next week to pick it up.

Not very convenient to open at 8:00 and close at 4:00 every day, especially when they aren't open weekends. How does anyone with a normal job make it in??? I had to leave work early today just to make it there by 4:03.
 
A summation of over 40 years of handgun experience- both single/double action revolvers and pistols- a .22 double action revolver for starters (or) maybe a model 10 S&W .38 special. Some would say get a .357 revolver which will allow cheaper .38s to be used for practice and warmer .357 loads for animal and human-animal targets. .38 ammo can be gotten comparatively inexpensively at guns shows or any well-stocked gunshop.. often they are commercial reloads.
I sold a revolver today that I would have called a perfect start-up.. stainless steel S&W 66 .357. A model 19 (same revolver in blued steel) would also be good. 4" or 5" inch barrel is optimum. Also if Pachmeyer or other soft grips are available so much the better.
Ruger has made some nice less expensive, quality pistols and revolvers worth looking into. Quite a few guys have started shooting via the Ruger, and Ruger backs their brand if you have a problem that needs fixed.
Again, revolver first, a .38 if you can spend the money to learn and become familiar with your piece.. or a .357 used with .38s to learn on. A .22 would be better than nothing but a lot of shooters get bored with them.
My own first big-bore revolver was a horse-pistola no longer made.. the Ruger Old Army .45 black powder. I learned to carry and balance the weight and got used to loud noises, smoky discharge, and large holes in whatever I was shooting at. NO I do NOT recommend a black powder gun for a beginner as it's too slow for most to load, reload and clean constantly. Just sharing!
GOOD LUCK AND SAFE SHOOTING. LIVE, LEARN AND UNDERSTAND.. there will never be just one! ALWAYS WEAR EARPLUGS! Ask me why, but speak up!
 
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Having just been in your shoes a few months ago:

I would have suggested getting a 22 on the 1911 frame. Stick wth the same frame if you're going 1911 eventually.

I bought the Sig 1911 Nightmare. Now that I have the right holster I can conceal it just fine.

If I had it to do over my first gun wouldn't have been the nightmare, it would have been the TacPac Rail with the laser kit and caboodle. I believe I "millk" while shooting, and the laser would allow to diagnose my personal accuracy issues easier I believe, being able to watch the dot dance. YMMV.

As I said earlier, now that I have the right holster.... I bought a Blackhawk! Serpa 2 at the same time I bought my Nightmare. I'm glad I did, but it's not a concealed carry holster when dealing with a 5"/Government/full size 1911. I ended up with an IWB (Inside-The-Waistband) from Kramer. Kramer in Washington State, High Noon Holsters in FLA area as I recall are both good internet based "Custom" holster makers. There are others as well. I advise you go to either of those two, or perhaps Milt Sparks or Don Hume. I Went with Kramer for a couple reasons, one they're fairly local to me, just an hour's drive away, and two, they don't use snaps. Their belt loops are screwed down. I bought a Galco IWB and drawing the pistol could pull the holster against the belt, undo the snaps, and I ended up with pistol and holster in my hands. I also advise Horsehide over cowhide. Both High Noon and Kramer have a FAQ explaining why in detail, but basically hosehide is tougher and protects your gun better as well as holds it's shape better.

Iowa is Shall issue for their CCW. And it works as an Aquire permit. And it makes the NICS check much easier to get through. Even if you don't want to carry all the time, I'd pick one up. $50 for 5 years of being able to wear your gun to the range sounds like a sweet deal to me.

The 1911 has, from what I've read, 5 conditions:

Condition 0 (insane to carry it this way) is loaded, round in the chamber, hammer cocked, safety off. Basically Condition 0 is fo when you're in the booth at the range pointing the thing downrange ready to fire.

Condition 1: AKA Cocked and Locked. Loaded, round in chamber, hammer cocked, thumb safety on. This is generally considered the way the pistol was designed to be carried.

Condition 2: Loaded, round in the chamber, hammer down(not cocked). This is a usually frowned upon status for the 1911, though from what I've ready it was popular in the military in WWII. To get to this condition, you have to load the pistol, and decock it manually. By firing the pistol, but holdnig the hammer in your hand to prevent it actually hitting the firing pin with enough force transfered to the primer to ignite. I don't know of anyone that advocates this condition anymore. You lose your grip on the hammer, and you're in all kinds of trouble.

Condition 3: Fully loaded magazine in the pistol, no round in the chamber, hammer is down.

Condition 4: Fully empty. No round in the chamber, no magazine.

I personally carry in Condition 3 right now, though as I get more comfortable can see myself moving to Condition 1. I don't ever expect to be in Condition 2. I have loaded my pistol with snapcaps, and spent a day watching TV with it in Condition 1 with no problem. I trust the pistol mechanically mostly( Hey, stuff breaks, and you cant see all the internal parts on that safety), but I don't necessarily trust I'd put the safety on all the time, so until I'm more familiar and more confident that I handle it right all-the-time-every-time, then I stay in condition 3.

To tack on to DanRanull's point about eyes and ears, I've noticed in the past month or so, the electronic earmuffs- They amplify the normal sounds, and reduce the loud ones- have gone been much lower price than I remember lately. Maybe an almost industry wide sale, maybe market age, or maybe I'm just losing my memory some. But I have a pair, and I love them to death. It's nice to have a conversation at the range without yelling, repeating things three times, or having to flip one ear on and off from time to time.
 
I think the 1911 is a great gun (Ihave 2) and the 45 ACP is a great round...

that said,

have you ever shot and cleaned a 45 1911?

Please do so first.

It can be a bit stout and they can be a bit more to field strip and Reassemble than more modern designs.

If you like the feel and manage the recoil and don't have an issue with field stripping and cleaning and Reassembling then get a kember and don't look back

Snake
 
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