New To Reloading

NSBRobert said:
I messed up, I meant to say my C.O.L. Variance is .007 fluctuating from 1.068 to 1.082. Sorry. Just wasn’t sure if that is acceptable.
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A C.O.L. tolerance of +/- .007" would be plenty good enough for me. Commercial ammo varies by more than that.
 
I would agree with Aguila Blanca. Your current load is acceptable. I would load a few more and run the test firing again. Then do the same with each of the guns you plan to use this ammo for. If they all function well with the same load then you are good to go. If one of the guns doesn't eject properly with the minimum charge, then you need to work it up slowly in each gun. Keep watching for consistency.

How did recoil feel, relative to the factory ammo you are usually using?
 
Recoil seemed fine, but honestly wasn’t paying much attention to it. With shooting the first 6 rounds I ever made I was just focused on being able to load more. Lol I am still tweaking everything, taking my time and will load some more today, I just installed the case feeder.

Now as far a setting bullet and crimping. The bullets sets nice and tight before the crimp, then after it feels relativity smooth where the case and bullet meet. With no primer or powder I then tried to tap the bullet against my work bench and measure again, may get .001 of a difference but usually not even that. So can I assume that I am seating the bullet good and crimping good?
 
. The bullets sets nice and tight before the crimp, then after it feels relativity smooth where the case and bullet meet. With no primer or powder I then tried to tap the bullet against my work bench and measure again, may get .001 of a difference but usually not even that. So can I assume that I am seating the bullet good and crimping good?
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Yes your crimp is good. With properly resized cases, neck tension is tight. All you are trying to do with a taper crimp is take the bell out of the case. Too much more than that can cause damage to the copper plate. And in turn the cartridge may not headspace properly. The forward edge of the case mouth needs to stay wide enough to be stopped on the lip in the chamber.

When you perform the plunk test, the cartridge should fall back out without effort. If it is sticky, then you likely got too much crimp and the case is sticking at the lip.
 
Thank you both great input.i loaded about 50 rounds this afternoon using the full functions of my Lee Progressive press and noticed this. When I am using all four stations it seem tight at the top, I think it’s the resizing die. I reset it to the specs by Lee and still the same. I also notice that when using all four stations it increased my C.O.L. BY .02 to .03 longer. The specs for install say to raise the press plate and screw in the die until it touches the plate and tighten set nut. If I set a bullet using the press one station at a time my C.O.L. is at 1.075 give to take .007. Again I also feel that it takes a little effort to lower the press plate when using all four stations. Like it’s almost stuck, but it is very smooth when only running one at a time. Does it sound like I need to raise the resizing die a fraction?

I also set aside the rounds that were over by .02 and .03 C.O.L. I assume that’s too much of a variation?
 
I had been reloading .38sp, .357mag, and .41mag for many years with no issues. Then I started loading for 9mm and had a few problems with ammo not going into battery. I figured out two things that fixed that. First I got an undersized sizing die, then loaded a dummy until it would plunk in all my pistols and then set the depth .01 deeper to allow for variances. Then I would load up five more dummies and make sure they cycle manually in all my pistols. Then start load from the minimum recommendation and work up to max load and usually found my best load at mid point. One thing though, make sure you have enough room left in the case for a max load without compressing the powder. I know some people don’t have a problem with slightly compressed loads in pistol, I’m just not comfy with it and feel no need for it. As far as powders my two faves in 9mm are Clays and 700-X.
 
Your press is doing 4 actions at the same time. It Should be noticably more effort to make the last part of the up stroke and starting the down stroke vs one case at a time.

If COL is growing when all positions are full, you might be getting flex in the Shell plate. Try pausing at the top of the stroke, keeping pressure on the handle for 3 or 4 seconds. If that doesn't fix it, yes you can turn the sizing die up. It won't take much. Move it in 1/16th to 1/8 of a turn at a time. Run the press until you have 8 cartridges. Measure the 4th and fifth cartridges off the press. They will show what is happening with a full press. Plunk test them.

As long as the loaded cartridge will plunk test in the gun and not touch the rifling, you don't need to worry about .002-.003". If it is .02-.03" then consistency may be an issue. Length is usually only an issue for pressure if the bullet touches the rifling before you fire. The other major issue is if it doesn't fit in the magazine. I load a few different lengths depending on what I am testing in the load. And some are a lot longer than others. You are still working with minimum charge, so it is safe to move things around a bit. Just make sure the bullet is clear of the rifling.
 
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Ok I reloaded some rounds no powder or primer, finally have the C.O.L. right. I removed bullets with puller, the coating was not scratched or removed at all, I know that good and tells me my flaring die is set right. But there is a VERY small indentation around the bullet where the crimp is. Is this correct or is crimp to tight. The bullet is very snug, it took a few light hits to get the bullet out.
 
A slight ring from the case mouth is ok. My experience pulling bullets: with semi auto pistol ammo a few hits is normal. With my heavy recoiling magnum revolvers it takes several hard hits to start the bullet moving.

If you are concerned about too light of crimp, cycle one of your loaded cartridges through the action 2 or 3 times without firing. The purpose for crimping is to hold the bullet in place when it slams into battery. You don't want the bullet to move forward into the rifling when loading the pistol. If it survived 2 times into the chamber from the magazine without moving, it is tight enough. You will see that ring on the bullet if it moves.

Some of my factory ammo. Starts to move at 3 times, so if my hand loads are doing the same, I'm happy.
 
After ordering from 2 large companies in April- each took a week or so to get 500 bullets out the door, and both charges coincided with shipping before the weekend. That's 1,000 total FMJ-type that should keep me busy reloading after they arrive in a couple of days (Priority mail with tracking).
 
I am so happy, loaded my first real batch (200), put 10 in my P320 and hit a 6 inch target from 20 yards everytime. All the casings landing right next to me which did surprise me but all in a group. Guess that shows some consistency. I took my time and loaded the 200 rounds in about 2 hours. Did a lot of checking of my loads and C.O.L. MY C.O.L. was supposed to be 1.075 and ranged from 1.070 to 1.085. Loads stayed steady at 3.8. It took a couple of weeks to get here but with being a total virgin I thought it better to ease into it and take my time. Thank you so much all for all the help and advise, it put my mind at ease and got me started in a new hobby.

I do have a question, the brass is literally falling next to me at my feet, should I move to 3.9 or 4.0 on my load? It calls for a max load of 4.1.
 
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Sounds like you are ready to move up a little. Have you tested this load in your other guns yet? Are the cases tossed further when you shoot factory ? Not that you need to match factory, just as a known reference to how the gun should function. Slightly less recoil will make for less wear and tear on the gun.
 
Factory cases are tossed 2-3 feet from me, these reloads with 3.8 charge which is min. On range are tossed literally next to my right foot. I am going to load some today with a 3.9 load. Will 0.1 increase actually make a decent difference?
 
You will notice it. It may not be much, but it is a fair amount of the difference between minimum and maximum charge.

The spring in my Ruger P89 is stiff enough that it won't cycle the action with your current load. The next tenth of a grain increase put the cases at my toes. I didn't see even close to normal function until I was 1 tenth grain under max. But I could tell a difference between the loads at 1 tenth grain increments.

Each gun is different.
 
Ok I have a question. I loaded today at with a load of 3.9 using titegroup. The manual calls foe a range of 3.8 to 4.1. As I shot many rounds today I notice that my brass was ejection but not a good clean ejection. I am thinking I need to go to 4.0 but also see that I get the occasional variance of plus 0.1. As I am so new here if I load at 4.0 and hit the 4.1 which is max should I have any concerns? Also just out of curiosity and to save a question down the road, if I ever load at a max in this case 4.1 and I have the occasional 4.2 but with a consistent C.O.L. Should I be concerned? Talking to a friend of mine he said since I am shooting with a Sig P 320 and Beretta 92FS that this should not be a concern. Just looking for further input.
 
That small of an over charge is not enough to ruin your gun in 1 shot. Given a steady diet of 4.3 grains would excessively wear on the gun. My gun shows no issues at 4.1 grains. But I see no performance difference between 4.0 and 4.1 or 4.2. So I load mine at 4.0. the occasional over won't be above book max.

I am glad you are taking things slow and cautious. It should keep you out of trouble. When you are loading for testing I suggest you use your scale for measuring the powder. I prefer my test loads to be as precise as I can make them. Then I know where I stand with a little variance from the powder measure when I mass produce the load.
 
Yes I do check my loads with a scale VERY often. Especially as I gain experience and knowledge. I am really enjoying this new hobby and being a little slow is not bothering me at all. Thank you.
 
I bought some HS-6 powder to see the difference, Lyman shows with my 124 gr HP coated a load range of 5.6 to 6.8. It also shows C.O.L. Doesn’t change. So from 3.9 with Titegroup to this it is correct my C.O.L. IS SAME?
 
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As I am so new here if I load at 4.0 and hit the 4.1 which is max should I have any concerns?
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No.

Also just out of curiosity and to save a question down the road, if I ever load at a max in this case 4.1 and I have the occasional 4.2 but with a consistent C.O.L. Should I be concerned?
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No.

Reloading data is GUIDELINES. They are NOT Holy Writ carved in stone. They are NOT immutable laws of Nature.

They are reports of what was tested, and what results they got. This does not mean you will get identical results. Your gun is different. Your ammo is different. They work as guidelines because most gun and ammo combinations fall near the middle of the bell curve.

It is possible your gun and ammo combination could be at either end of the curve, (high or low) which is why we start low and test in small increments, until we know for sure. SO, GUDELINES, not laws.

Max loads listed in manuals are NOT the maximum safe limits of your gun/ammo combination, they are where the testers decided to stop, for what ever reason, and are always WELL BELOW the danger point.

Your gun will not blow up, you will not fall off the edge of the earth and be eaten by dragons if you exceed the listed max load by a TINY amount.

Your gun was proof tested by the maker at a much higher pressure amount than the listed max in the loading data. That "max" in the data is a working limit something your gun will take, day in, day out. (Assuming it takes it in the first place).

Pretty much the same thing for COAL. Tiny variations (say 0.01") in overall length generally don't matter. Yes, differences in seating DEPTH do matter, but differences in total length (case base to bullet tip) are not a big concern.

THink about it, and take a look at your bullets, AND the seating stem of your die. It does NOT touch the bullet tip. (nor, should it). It touches the bullet part way down the ogive, not the tip. (this applies to RN, loading SWC or wadcutters is slightly different)

The bullets themselves can be slightly different lengths. A 0.01" variance is not significant in handguns, though it might make a difference in long range match rifle shooting, I have yet to see a handgun where that tiny amount matters.
(the one exception is if your bullet tips are in contact with the magazine box already, then it can be the difference between binding/dragging in the magazine, and barely clearing it. A very rare thing if your loads are below the published max COAL)

Industry standard listed max dimensions and pressures are so rounds will work and be safe in everything. And they are well within the actual mechanical safety boundaries of your gun(s).
 
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