New To Reloading

some "gotchas" for 9mm

Pistols I would advise keeping exactly to the SAAMI specs, they tend to not be as tolerant of variability in cartridge length as a carbine. Things to be careful of: 9mm cases don't have a whole lot of excess pressure strength, so be "judicious" when exploring +p loads. Keep an eye on pocket primer and head stretch, they go fast in the 9mm with higher pressure loads. Get a mouth bell die to assist in seating--otherwise you're going to crunch some cases. Since the 9mm is a straight wall cartridge (OK, a slight taper) the case mouth is important for head spacing in the chamber. Light crimps or none at all if tightly seated are the order of the day. When I reload for a pistol I disassemble the pistol I'm reloading for and use the barrel as a gauge. I'll drop test the cartridge into the chamber, it should "plunk" freely but snugly and should have case support to the base of the case body/top of rim groove. Some pistols barrels might not have full support due to the feed ramp--again watch out for that if you anticipate using strong loads. What works for one pistol may not for another. I bought thousands of RMR bullets while they were available--but I just checked their site and it looks like their availability may have fallen victim to the corona hoard panic. Berry's are a good cheap alternative, but they are thinly plated so watch that you don't push them very fast. I've had a few misfires over the years due to things like bad primers; but when I fire pistol reloads I try to pay careful attention to what the report sounds like and where the bullet impacts, if possible. The reason being if you get a squib load you can turn your handgun into a hand grenade.
 
Ok in looking for powder I went to the Hodgdon site and here’s what it said, I just wanted to be sure that I put in the right information and getting the right results for the Berrys 9mm 124gr RN coated. All are at C.O.L 1.150”

Titegroup 3.6/4.1
Universal 3.8/4.4
800-x 5.2/5.7
700-x 3.7/4.2
231 3.9/4.4
Titewad 2.9/3.4

I see the difference in velocity ranging from 847 on low end with titewad and high end of 1114 with 800-x also see the differences in PSI. understanding that I should do the plink test with my barrel for C.O.L and start at the low end on loads and work up from there staying no more than mid range until I gain experience. Remembering this is strictly for plinking around my house but wanting a reliable and accurate combination. I also understand that change maybe needed as I load,

so my questions are:

1. Are my numbers above correct, I.E. reading info correctly?

2. Which powder is recommended to start with?

Thank you again.
 
For your use any of those powders will work. Your data is close to what I use, but my load came from a manual. You will need to see what is currently available for powder. Around here I can't find what I want on the shelf. The panic buying caused all kinds of shortages here.

When I start with a new load work up I load 2 to 3 rounds of each charge to shoot in tests. I divide the low to high charge by 5. For Titegroup that gave me loads that were 1/10th grain apart. I shot the lowest charge first, noting how the gun functioned, how recoil felt, and where the empty casings landed. I shot until the gun functioned properly and all of the empty brass ended up close to each other. I also compared the loads to factory ammo for another reference for feel of recoil and where the brass landed. I have found that the most consistent loads put the brass in a small area and the less consistent put them all over the place. You have an advantage over me, in that you can step outside and shoot. Whereas I have to drive for at least 30 minutes to shoot. So you can load a few and go test them. Make adjustment and test them. I load all of the test ammo and hope that I don't have to pull any bullets. Do the same work up with each gun. You can load for each individual gun for perfect function, or you can find a load that works pretty well in all of them.
 
Titegroup 3.6/4.1
Universal 3.8/4.4
800-x 5.2/5.7
700-x 3.7/4.2
231 3.9/4.4
Titewad 2.9/3.4

Lots of loaders use Titegroup.
I prefer HP38 which is the same as 231 with a Hodgdon label.

700X and 800X are shotgun powders wth good burn rate for pistols. But 700X is a large flake that does not meter well in pistol charge weights. 800X is worse.

I haven't loaded Universal. It is said to be similar in performance to old timer Unique but cleaner burning.

Titewad is mostly a shotgun powder with pistol applications. I don't know anybody who uses it.
 
NSBRobert said:
Ok in looking for powder I went to the Hodgdon site and here’s what it said, I just wanted to be sure that I put in the right information and getting the right results for the Berrys 9mm 124gr RN coated. All are at C.O.L 1.150”

Titegroup 3.6/4.1
Universal 3.8/4.4
800-x 5.2/5.7
700-x 3.7/4.2
231 3.9/4.4
Titewad 2.9/3.4

...

so my questions are:

1. Are my numbers above correct, I.E. reading info correctly?
Click to expand...

The Hodgdon web site only shows one load for a 124-grain bullet over Winchester 231. It is loaded to a COL of 1.150" and the load range is 3.9 to 4.4. So you are reading that correctly. BUT ... that recipe is for a hollow base bullet. You can see what hollow base bullets look like on Berry's web site -- they have 'em. Basically, the base of the bullet is scooped out a bit. This has the effect of increasing the empty volume in the case behind the bullet, so if your bullets have a flat base, I would expect those loads to be safe but to generate a bit less velocity than what the Hodgdon site predicts.
 
I'm not an expert reloading for rimless pistol cartridges, but I know enough to be safe with my loads, yet practical. You made the right choice for your shooting levels to buy an inexpensive, but effective Lee progressive press. It's one that I'm personally looking at getting in the future.

So, to answer your questions...

1. Do I want to make a round (no primer or powder) and find the max. Length that will work in both full size guns and best in the two carry guns? Meaning longer is better?
I'd say that's uncessary at this point because you're attempting to find something that's going to cycle thru your guns reliably and the perfect OAL doesn't always mean you're guaranteed to get that reliability. Different bullets can act different, so my advise is find a bullet you like and stick with it.

2. What type of powder should I start with and where should I start on load size?
I'm sure you already know this, but aways use published data and if you can get it from more than just once source you're in good shape. You're asking about loading 9mm, which is very common and there's lot of places to get good information.

As to powder it depends on what you can get locally or what you're willing to pay the hazmat fee for online. Since you're starting out, I would get a few different, but popular powders for 9mm and see what results you get with the different bullets you've decided are ones you'd like to try due to various factors such as price and availability.

3. After I see how they fire in my guns what adjustments should I make? Assuming they eject well, how should I tweak?
IMO, if they shoot to your liking there's little reason to tweak them. You can drive yourself nuts trying to tailor a load by changing the powder charge .1 grain or altering the OAL or primer used. The first thing you want is a safe load, after that it's accuracy, then reliability.

4. If I find projectiles is there any reason I can’t use flat nose or hollow point?
No, but it depends on if your individuals guns can feed them. As to the legal ramifications of using your own ammo for self defense, that's a different topic and probably not what you were asking.

5. Finally is there anything I didn’t ask that I should have?
No, I think you seem to know what you're doing, but are a bit hesitant. Just relax, have some faith in your ability, and stay alert during loading to make sure you didn't do a double charge or an undercharge. Basically, if something doesn't look or feel right, it probably isn't.

Common sense stuff.
 
Well the 2000 Berrys bullets I bought on Gun Broker from seller ( LG Outdoors ) American Outfitters now says they are back ordered. They said they were on their shelves and now sold out. Oh yea, it was after they got my money before they said anything. WOW what a company..... anyway I found some PowerBond 9mm 124gr Hollow Point Plated Bullets. Since it is so HARD to find projectiles right now is there any reason I should not load these until more is available? I also placed an order for 2000 124 Gr with RMR but there is a few week wait, maybe six.
 
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NSBRobert said:
.... anyway I found some PowerBond 9mm 124gr Hollow Point Plated Bullets. Since it is so HARD to find projectiles right now is there any reason I should not load these until more is available?
Click to expand...
No reason at all.

For reasons I won't go into, even though I'm of the "Only carry factory ammo for self-defense" school, I'm currently doing 9mm with Berry's 124-grain "hybrid" hollow point and I'm quite happy with them. My goal was to come up with a load that's legal for IDPA. My first try was with 3.9 grains of Winchester 231, at a COL of 1.125". That generated an average velocity of 970 fps and a power factor of 120 -- a tab too wimpy.

My next trial batch was with 4.3 grains of Win 231 loaded to a COL of 1.121". That produced an average velocity of 1,051 fps and a power factor of 130. Good to go, so that's what I'm loading now.
 
Ok I found and purchased the Powerbond 9mm 124 gr HP Plated. Looking at my Lyman book I should be looking at jacketed HP? And on the Hornady guide it’s the XTP? Both are showing a O.A.L of 1.060. Is that right? Looking at some of my replies that seems short and wondering if I am not looking at right load data for this bullet.
 
Can you post a link to the web site for that bullet? Or just see how it compares to the Berry's 124-gr hollow-point?

https://www.berrysmfg.com/product/bp-9mm-356-124gr-hhp

The Berry's bullet is very similar in shape to the Remington 124-grain Golden Saber JHP bullet. Golden Saber is my chosen factory self-defense round in 9mm, so I have them around. I measured several Golden Saber rounds and set my COL by the simple expedient of copying Remington factory rounds. I agree that 1.060" seems rather short -- but each bullet is different, so unless the profile is the same as the XTP you can't really go by the COL listed for the XTP.

I found this image of them: https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-19878442352198/powerbond-9mm-124gr-hp-plated-bullets-1000-count-3.gif

Those aren't segmented hollow-points, so they aren't intended for self-defense, they're probably intended for competition. That would be more akin to the Hornady HAP bullet:
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/handgun/9mm-356-125-gr-hap-box-of-500#!/
 
NSBRobert said:
https://accuraoutdoors.com/product/9-124-hp/
Here is a link I found. it shows here C.O.L. 1.075. But that’s all. If you click on reviews it has some info on loads but I would like to have more or someone confirm.
Click to expand...
Is that the same bullet? It doesn't look the same.
 
I reloaded my first few rounds today, and have a couple of question.

1. The C.O.L IS 1.075 what is an acceptable tolerance? I seem to be plus or neg .07

2. I had one round that left a bullet in the barrel. It was a plunk and shell didn’t eject, so I carefully ejected shell and thank God smart enough to take apart pistol to check barrel. It sounded like there was no powder charge. When I was loading on my progressive press and being careful I was measuring every load to ensure I had my Lee powder measure set up right and loading proper charge, I assume that what I did was weighed a charge and didn’t put charge in the shell. That’s the only thing that could have caused this correct?

3. Rounds except for one above all ejected well, and all lander on ground in same vicinity, I used the min charge of 3.8 of Tight group with a hollow point 124 gr plated projectile. The max charge is 4.1 so should I be happy where I am I go to 3.9 or 4.0?

Thank you
 
NSBRobert said:
I reloaded my first few rounds today, and have a couple of question.

1. The C.O.L IS 1.075 what is an acceptable tolerance? I seem to be plus or neg .07
Click to expand...
That seems a bit much. That means you're seeing rounds anywhere from 1.005" to 1.145". You're going to get a wide variation in velocity, and at any sort of distance a wide variance in point of impact.

2. I had one round that left a bullet in the barrel. It was a plunk and shell didn’t eject, so I carefully ejected shell and thank God smart enough to take apart pistol to check barrel. It sounded like there was no powder charge. When I was loading on my progressive press and being careful I was measuring every load to ensure I had my Lee powder measure set up right and loading proper charge, I assume that what I did was weighed a charge and didn’t put charge in the shell. That’s the only thing that could have caused this correct?
Click to expand...
Most likely. We've probably all done that at least once.

3. Rounds except for one above all ejected well, and all lander on ground in same vicinity, I used the min charge of 3.8 of Tight group with a hollow point 124 gr plated projectile. The max charge is 4.1 so should I be happy where I am I go to 3.9 or 4.0?
Click to expand...
That's a pretty tight charge range. With your C.O.L. varying so much -- and many of them being shorter, which increases the pressure, I would not increase the charge. Stay with that charge and focus on improving the consistency of the C.O.L., then think about trying 3.9 and 4.0 grains to see if it produces any improvement in accuracy. If not -- keep loading at 3.8 grains.
 
I messed up, I meant to say my C.O.L. Variance is .007 fluctuating from 1.068 to 1.082. Sorry. Just wasn’t sure if that is acceptable.
 
Dunno if anyone added this (couldn't read 'em all), but first thing I'd do is make up your "10 Rules of Reloading." You'll find these on the interwebs in varying forms, but once you settle on your 10, print them in a large font, put it in a sheet protector, and hang it at eye level above your bench. READ THEM AND FOLLOW THEM, every time you start a session. Sorry for yelling, but twice now I failed to follow two separate rules and paid for it both times. It's safety first all the way. Once you've learned how to make ammo safely, you'll have a hobby that will likely last you til' you're no longer upright. Have fun!
 
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