New to hunting

Isn’t the Lee-Enfield praises for its speed? Anyways, how about a smooth actions? Are all modern actions smooth? What of the options I outlined (Winchester, Remington, Tikka) have smooth actions? What even goes in to making an action smooth? I’ve seen mainly PRS style rifles have smooth actions but they’re still all Remington style actions.
 
Trying to define "smooth" in an action is like trying to define what makes a girl pretty. Different things to different people. However, there are some attributes that most can agree on. When you are opening and closing the bolt, is it free from "grittiness" or can you feel metal grinding against metal? Same thing when pulling the bolt back or pushing it forward. Then, you have bolt angle. Is the bolt angle ergonomically designed so that it fits good in your hands even when scoped? What is the throw angle? Meaning, how many degrees do you have to rotate the bolt up before the lugs unlock? Etc.

Lots of variables. And, you can't always rely on simply selecting a manufacturer. I've got two Remington Model 7s. One (the older one) has an action that rivals any high-dollar gun I've ever handled. The other one feels like it was made in China by a drunken worker. When you get ready to buy, go to a large gun shop (with good inventory) and see what feels right to you.
 
Yeah, I’m gonna head to a gun store soon. How about an action that can handle a lot of round being put through it? Not necessarily fast, but be able to have a lot of rounds put through it without being worn down. I’ve heard that .243 wears out easily
 
I’ve heard that .243 wears out easily
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What you are hearing is likely from competitive shooters. Fast, high pressure, overbore cartridges tend to wear out the throat of the chamber faster than slower, less overbore cartridges. This changes the accuracy. Some say that a barrel will be worn out at 3,500 to 4,000 rounds. What you need to remember is that what they consider accurate enough to win, and what is considered accurate enough to hunt are very different. Some competition shooting requires a rifle capable of less than 1/2 MOA. Hunting can be done with a 2 MOA rifle. That is 4 times larger groups.

That said, how long will it take you to shoot 4,000 rounds? And will you notice if the rifle is shooting an extra 1/4 inch larger groups after 3,000 rounds? My hunting rifles might see a few hundred rounds a year. And chances are that (like most of us) you will decide you want a new rifle, or new caliber before you wear it out. We have all been where you are now. Pick a caliber that interests you and don't worry about wearing it out. If it is still concerning to you, look at Savage rifles. You can rebarell it in your garage for less than buying a new rifle. Check it out on YouTube.
 
At the absolute max, I think I’d only shoot 1000 rounds a year. But I think realistically the number is closer to 500. I do not want a semi auto though. I the idea of a bolt action, and this idea of a bolt action practical rifle that I can practice with, and in practicing, i’d be putting more rounds down range than I would with a rifle meant for hunting.
 
1000 rounds at an average cost of $25 per box (which is probably less than what you'll actually pay) equals $1,250. If you are REALLY worried about wearing out a rifle, then just buy a new one every few years. Paying $500 for a new rifle every 4000 rounds is a small price compared to the cost of 4000 rounds of ammunition.

I realize you are young, but I'm pretty sure you had math in high school.
 
Okay. I will go to a gun store soon and find a rifle that suits me, and I’ll just deal with it’s wear as it comes. My original price range was about $700 but I might go down a bit just in case it wears. Thank you.

Also, quick question about oiling a rifle. I’ve always heard that you should keep rifles oiled. However at an airshow recently, I saw some USAF Security Forces displaying an M24 that had a very smooth action but didn’t seem to be oiled at all. Can someone explain?
 
I saw some USAF Security Forces displaying an M24 that had a very smooth action but didn’t seem to be oiled at all. Can someone explain?
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Oil does not need to be applied heavily to protect. I apply oil and wipe it with a dry rag immediately. You don't have to see it for it to work. Applying too much can be detrimental to the operation of the gun, and it attracts dirt.

Just because the group size opens up a bit at 4,000 rounds doesn't mean the rifle is useless. You may find that it shoots well enough to get 10,000 rounds before you are not happy with it. You won't know that until you get there.;)
 
Alright, one more question. I’ve heard that some actions have issues running quickly and jam up quickly. Any features I should look for in an action that avoids that?
 
. I’ve heard that some actions have issues running quickly and jam up quickly. Any features I should look for in an action that avoids that?
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I haven't had problems with bolt actions in Savage, Remington 700, Mossberg 100, Weatherby Vangaurd, or Ruger. Only jamming issues have been with auto loaders in 22 lr.
 
TheScout said:
Alright, one more question. I’ve heard that some actions have issues running quickly and jam up quickly. Any features I should look for in an action that avoids that?
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Generally, with a bolt action, it's not an issue with the gun itself, but an issue with the operator either short stroking the action or an issue with a dirty/gummy action(many times attributed to over oiling). Sometimes it's bullet profile that doesn't allow the cartridge to feed properly from the magazine.
 
With bolt action, you want make sure rd (case head) is push back against magazine, if too far forward may not feed. Rifle that has removable magazine may work little better too start with.
 
Okay. I will look out for those, thank you. Let’s back it up a bit. If I wanted a bolt action rifle to learn to shoot centerfire cartridges on, what rifle or platform would you recommend? I planned on skipping .223 Rem and going straight to .308Win
 
The Savage 10/110 is a good bolt action to learn on. They have a solid reputation for accuracy. There are several aftermarket accessories available to customize it. And when you get bored with it, or if the barrel is worn out, you can change the barrel yourself at home. A new barrel is less $ than a new rifle and you already know the trigger and action. If budget is more of a priority the Savage Axis has the same list of benefits. It takes the same replacement barrels as the 10/110. The biggest issue with the Axis is the flimsy stock they come with. Some people have reinforced the stock with epoxy. I bought a replacement stock from Boyd's Gunstocks. Some people don't like the looks of a Savage, but beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

As far as cartridge goes, your choice of 243, 7mm-08, or 308. Cost is similar. Recoil can be heavier with the larger bullet diameter. But all are good deer cartridges. My personal lightest for elk is 7-08, but many hunt elk with 243 successfully. All 3 punch holes in paper quite well.
 
Okay, I too have heard good things about that rifle. Which one is it? Could you send me the link from Savage’s website please. That’s a contender for me, unless, does anyone have any other suggestions?
 
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I tried to put a link up. The website wouldn't connect for some reason. Look up Center fire then choose Product Family then 110
You have 27 options. Different stocks and configurations.

They used to differentiate between short and long action. Model 10 was short, modell 110 was long. I don't see that now:rolleyes:
 
Oh okay, I’ve found it. Thank you! This is kinda an immature question for me to ask but, just because it was designed for hunting (as most bolt actions are) doesn’t mean I have to use it for hunting, does it? Ultimately it’s gonna serve as a practical rifle that I can learn to shoot center fire cartridges on.
 
Intended purpose of any rifle is up to the user. If I wanted to use a target rifle for hunting there is nothing stopping me. A hunting rifle is good practice and learning tool. After you master the hunting rifle a target gun might make more sense. Spending the money on target only gear can be expensive. And it won't teach you any better. Some of the features can make it easier to shoot longer range, but you can still use a hunting rifle for long range target practice.

It is really up to you. What you want to have is more important than anything someone on an internet chat room says you should have. Do your own research into the available options and ask what they are for, and how effective they are. If you post in the rifle specific forums here, you will get pretty honest answers. The final set up for your optimal gun might be very different than mine. But it could be very similar as well. Take your time deciding before you buy.
 
For an intermediate deer rifle (200 yards or less)...may I suggest the CZ 527 carbine in 7.62x39. It is lightweight, low in recoil and can shoot cheap ammo. It is my favorite centerfire rifle steel gong shooter. It sports a Mauser action and iron sights...but it is capable for telescopic sights. Mine sports a 3-9x Vortex.

The action was a little gritty when I bought it. But when the stock developed a 1/4" long crack at the rear of the receiver...the CZ distributor --- here in the U.S., replaced the Turkish walnut stock and slicked-up the Mauser action at no charge.
 
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