New reloader possible over charge?

[RC20]

No you are not being too cautions.

The problem with electronic scales is they drift, its your job to keep them to task.

the following reads a lot harder than it is, you might want to print it and then run through the steps.

Once yhou have a good caliation done, then weight your pan.

Write that njumbr down where you can see it.

put pan on the scale and zero it.

When you lift the pan, it should read the pan weight (stick with me I am not being annoyhing)

When you lift the pan to fill a case, check the weight.

At some point its going to drift.

Zero it. No more than 2/10 off, zero it.

sometimes you have to repeat each time.

Your charge is going to be off that drift amount.

Back weigh the charge.

The concept here is that scales have a range and you want them to work the range right. That's what the heavy weight do, they tell you its good.

The pan weight is a quick calibration check. While not complete, the pan does weigh a lot and if its right when you zero it, then it tells you the range is good

You still want to do a official calibration , but not all the time.

The key is to look at the scale when the pan is off, its should read the pan weight (with a minus)

if its drifted, pan on, zero and you are good.

Some are worse than others. Sometimes each time, others pretty steady.

Solid bench, no metal around, no wind, keep it clean, no electronics next to it or any closer than you can help.

 

[jimbob86]

he problem with electronic scales is they drift, its your job to keep them to task.

the following reads a lot harder than it is, you might want to print it and then run through the steps.

Once yhou have a good caliation done, then weight your pan.

Write that njumbr down where you can see it.

put pan on the scale and zero it.

When you lift the pan, it should read the pan weight (stick with me I am not being annoyhing)

When you lift the pan to fill a case, check the weight.

At some point its going to drift.

Zero it. No more than 2/10 off, zero it.

sometimes you have to repeat each time.

Your charge is going to be off that drift amount.

Back weigh the charge.

The concept here is that scales have a range and you want them to work the range right. That's what the heavy weight do, they tell you its good.

The pan weight is a quick calibration check. While not complete, the pan does weigh a lot and if its right when you zero it, then it tells you the range is good

You still want to do a official calibration , but not all the time.

The key is to look at the scale when the pan is off, its should read the pan weight (with a minus)

if its drifted, pan on, zero and you are good.

Some are worse than others. Sometimes each time, others pretty steady.

Solid bench, no metal around, no wind, keep it clean, no electronics next to it or any closer than you can help.

THIS is why I like volumetric friendly powders and metering ......
.....especially for handgun rounds!

A whole lot less PITA ..... maybe not as exact.... but if you are not tiptoeing around the raggeddy edge of Splodeyville, or the Border of BulletStuckinthebarreltown ......

This kind of meticulousness might be warranted for match grade rifle rounds, but with 9mm pistol?

 

[juggernault98]

No you are not being too cautions.



The problem with electronic scales is they drift, its your job to keep them to task.



the following reads a lot harder than it is, you might want to print it and then run through the steps.



Once yhou have a good caliation done, then weight your pan.



Write that njumbr down where you can see it.



put pan on the scale and zero it.



When you lift the pan, it should read the pan weight (stick with me I am not being annoyhing)



When you lift the pan to fill a case, check the weight.



At some point its going to drift.



Zero it. No more than 2/10 off, zero it.



sometimes you have to repeat each time.



Your charge is going to be off that drift amount.

That is what I did.

Calibrated scale
Zeroed scale
Pan on scale (got weight of pan)
Zeroed scale with pan.
Dumped my charge

After the second charge I noticed the drift so I pressed zero every time. My charge at the lowest was 4.8 and high of 5.1. I threw a charge at 5.5 once and adjusted appropriately.

The next time I will write the pan number down in order to see how much drift had accumulated throwing my charges off. I do not believe it could have been thrown off into me loading a 7gr case.

I did notice 4.8 to 5.1gr powder is way different than 7gr when eye balling the case while in the loader.




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[jimbob86]

I did notice 4.8 to 5.1gr powder is way different than 7gr when eye balling the case while in the loader.

And if you agitate the case at all, it'll settle and look completely different again.

Yo could not give me a pound of Unique. More trouble than it's worth.

 

[juggernault98]

And if you agitate the case at all, it'll settle and look completely different again.



Yo could not give me a pound of Unique. More trouble than it's worth.

I was going to go with bullseye... But they did not have 1lb can. They had a 4lb can. I didn't want to start with 4 with a new powder


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[RC20]

Juggernault98:

Keep on doing what you are doing. If you look at almost any 9mm powder, the range is pretty narrow no matter what the powder.

That is the best reason in the world to maintain accuracy.

Jimbob does not get its for safety, not trying for accuracy.

I reload 30-06, at 57.8 grains for my favorite load, a tenth ot two makes zero difference

I still keep it within a tenth.




Jimbob86: this is a guy getting started, being very careful is to be applauded. He caught the error, he took steps to confirm it, he asked for help.

We are trying to get him going safety in a cartridge this is not forgiving . Its also a safe one if you are careful. It is what he has so we need to get him going as safely as possible.

If you don't have anything that helps the OP, then don't post.

 

[mikld]

Beware youtube! Anyone can post a video and proclaim to be an expert. If you need information on reloading methods, look at dedicated, reliable texts on the subject. Get a copy of The ABCs of Reloading. Look at the "how to" sections of your reloading manuals (reloading manuals are much more than a recipe book!). Also don't rely 100% on what you read in forums either. True facts are available out there (texts, manuals, etc.) and "opinions" from "experts" can get you confused, frustrated and even in trouble.

If a scale's pan were not needed why does the mfg. supply each scale with a pan? Look at each and every "suggestion" with a "logic mind". When you see a suggestion, stop and think; "Does this sound right? Is this logical?". There is nothing mysterious about reloading, in fact it's simple with simple metal working and logical procedures...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...

 

[44 AMP]

Hammer them against a concrete floor, it seems to take the least amount of poundings to free the bullet. You will loose some powder, but the bullet, case and primer will be ready for a safe load.

With the inertia (hammer) type puller, from Lyman or RCBS (or similar) you won't lose any powder if you assemble it correctly. All the components are contained inside the puller, for you to recover.

Also, while concrete seems like a hard surface (and it will work) you will get better results (and don't risk chipping your floor) if you use a METAL (Iron or steel) impact surface. Its the "sudden stop" that pulls the bullet, and concrete and even the hardest woods have a small amount of "give" to them that iron & steel do not. I use the top of an old wood stove, and it takes less effort (fewer wacks) there than anywhere else.

As to the scales, I don't use Lee so no comment on them, specifically.

What is the airflow where you are using the scale? ANY air movement, (including the heater duct on the far side of the room) can cause the electronic scales to drift.

Scales should be zeroed with the pan in place.

9mm: Max pressure is 34,000 psi. the max loads on the Lymans are 33,000 psi. As powder is non linear, you can easily have a jump with a tenth or two over what the gun will take.

"What the gun will take"...You absolutely CAN make loads that will blow up a gun, but don't get the idea that your gun WILL blow up if you exceed the max listed pressure by a tiny amount. The max listed pressure is NOT the blow up limit of the gun, it is the max WORKING limit that will be safe in all modern firearms in proper working condition.

The problem is that in some calibers, with some gun & powder, bullet, and seating depth combinations, you can go from just slightly over the posted limits to grossly over the posted limits with a tiny change in variables.

1.169" is the max listed COAL (cartridge overall length =length with bullet)

This is not so much a chambering issue as it is a function through the magazine issue.

 

[RC20]

This is not so much a chambering issue as it is a function through the magazine issue.

Not something I have played with, so will accept that no problem.

It would be something I would be aware of as possible interfere issue if the bullet dropped into the chamber and was sticking out.

Not the top one but a possible one.

 

[StripesDude]

Just to clarify - you can weigh a charge with a case. You have to zero out (tare) each individual case you do this with. So on the Lee Turret, you'd resize then prime, remove the case and put it on the scale, zero it out, put the case back in the press and charge it, then take it out and put it back on the scale to get the charge weight.

I do this all the time, but the key is to reweigh every case after it's been primed as they vary.

 

[RC20]

I can see that, I do single load so not an issue for me.

 

[jimbob86]

I was going to go with bullseye... But they did not have 1lb can. They had a 4lb can. I didn't want to start with 4 with a new powder

Good call.

Bullseye is a great powder..... if you are loading for a .45ACP......

Jimbob86: this is a guy getting started, being very careful is to be applauded. He caught the error, he took steps to confirm it, he asked for help.

We are trying to get him going safety in a cartridge this is not forgiving . Its also a safe one if you are careful. It is what he has so we need to get him going as safely as possible.

If you don't have anything that helps the OP, then don't post.

I had on opinion ... that if followed would make his reloading life so much easier .... and safer ...... if that's not helpful, then you and I have different definitions of the word.......


Volumetric measuring of powder, whether done with a dippers, or any of the various style meters, for handgun ammo is the way to go, if done correctly with a powder that works well for this method (pretty much any non flake powder or really long stick powder, but since we are talking 9mm, the latter doesn't matter )..... for 9mm, my favorite is Alliant Power Pistol...... the biggest complaint about it is that it's not hyper-efficient (means it's bulky- you get less charges/pound, but also means a double charge in a 9mm case is going to be impossible and still seat the bullet.....safety, safety, safety!) .... and that it's "flashy" in shorter barrels- large muzzle flash in low light with short barrels ...... whatever- it's good one to learn on. That's my recommendation.

 

[juggernault98]

Well an update, took the 10 CRN rounds to the range (if memory serves correct) 4.8-5.0gr. Shot 5 out of the scorp and 5 out the glock ran like a champ.

After my mistake I did more research on LRN adjusted my charge slightly and loaded 5 of those. Scorp cycled everything just fine.

Now to fine tune. Again I thank everyone for their advice nothing wrong with adding to the "mental toolbox"


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[SARuger]

Well an update, took the 10 CRN rounds to the range (if memory serves correct) 4.8-5.0gr.

Write everything down! That way if it works you can repeat it. If it doesn't work, you know not to revisit that load again.

I use simple index cards, stuff them in the ammo box with the hand loads. If it works, i record it in my notebook in the reloading room.

Jot down the bullet weight, manufacturer, (even the part number), powder type and charge weight, case type, primer type/size, and C.O.L.

I also make notes about over-pressure signs, accuracy, how the gun cycles etc.

 

[jimbob86]

If you don't write it down, it did not happen.

 

[RC20]

That is great news! Congratulations and well done.

I do like Jimbob86 on powder choice, ak the Aliant Pistol Powder (if you can find it)

I use HS-6 (mostly) but have shot unique and B ye in 9mm, but I am dammed careful and check the case not only for being filled, it match th4e level.

Sure it may settle but in short term non moved not enough to change it and if its not the same something went wrong.