New reloader possible over charge?

Ok, that is good, but the first step in reloading is checking your scale.



Without confirmation its right, you should not proceed.



What was the bullet weight? Wait until you get home and weigh one to be sure.



I don't have Lee Book and they do not allow a look so I don't know where they are at with either one.


Here is the cases my buddy gave me. R P 9mm
cbce2bad6b98cb05a7ce1561436ec7ef.jpg

here are the bullets I weighed them on my digital scale at 7.420 grams.

The scale was calibrated and zeroed.
6b1eb2eef48764ba3accd5d7b4640e8f.jpg


I am wondering if my scale is already defective. The weight was jumping around I moved the scale away from all metal the lowest was 7.400 grams. Then evened out at 7.420-7.430.

I threw another charge after properly calibrating and zeroing I'm still at 7gr.

Is there a way to pull the bullets without a puller? That won't screw up my case and bullet? I need to get a puller tomorrow




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Is there a way to pull the bullets without a puller? That won't screw up my case and bullet? I need to get a puller tomorrow

You need a hammer/inertia puller. Or a collet type puller. The collet puller will leave some small marks on the bullet. The inertia puller will leave you with a well developed dominate arm!

Hammer them against a concrete floor, it seems to take the least amount of poundings to free the bullet. You will loose some powder, but the bullet, case and primer will be ready for a safe load. Just don't forget that primer is in there when you run them back through your LCT (ask me how I know:D)
 
Mikld,

I believe he was doing it as a comparison between the Lee scale, and the Hornady scale. Although you are right in that it should have been just the powder charge. And not a primed case.



Juggernault,

One book is a good starting point. 5 is better..

Alliant, Ramshot, Vihtavouri, and others have ones that you can download.



As well as powder charge, you have to pay careful attention to the cartridge over all length!!! A small change in this measurement has a drastic change in pressure!!!



Also note that for different guns, make dummy loads (casing with spent primer/no primer, and bullet. NO powder!!), and check to see that it chambers properly.

I didn't know they had ones to download. Thank you,

as for the OAL:
I shot a bunch yesterday.
I saved one round (it shot well in my g19)
Measured the OAL of said round.
Copied that OAL with my reload.

Over all. Everyone is saying just use the pan to check my charge? Not a zeroed casing? I hate to admit but I saw it on the YouTube.


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Yes, just drop a charge in your pan and weigh it, once the scales are checked for calibration/zero. The LEE scales can be set to your charge weight after that and then you can check your charge.

I check my LEE's often and I rarely have to adjust them unless I get clumsy and knock them over reaching for something.
 
9mm Luger

With a 115 gr bullet , the general range for Unique powder is From 4.4 grains to 7.0 grains.

The difference in components is what makes maximum pressure variations.

Some firearms handle pressure better then others.

What make , model firearm are you going to fire your reloads in? G19?

Always look into the case before seating the bullet. Does the powder level look right.

http://m.hornady.com/store/G2-1500-Electronic-Scale/
 
Last edited:
With respect, you need to stop right now.

Get a reloading manual and read through the safety section at least twice. Reloading is not something to take lightly using random components that your friend gave you and hoping for the best.

Please heed this warning.
 
You need a hammer/inertia puller. Or a collet type puller. The collet puller will leave some small marks on the bullet. The inertia puller will leave you with a well developed dominate arm!



Hammer them against a concrete floor, it seems to take the least amount of poundings to free the bullet. You will loose some powder, but the bullet, case and primer will be ready for a safe load. Just don't forget that primer is in there when you run them back through your LCT (ask me how I know:D)



Yeah, I'm gonna get one tomorrow and going to load again tonight with the new scale and not go maximum. Thinking 5.4gr
Also i can only imagine the look on your face when you found out.

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Yeah, I'm gonna get one tomorrow and going to load again tonight with the new scale and not go maximum. Thinking 5.4gr
Also i can only imagine the look on your face when you found out.

Ok, 9 mm Luger, that is the standard so on the right page for sure now.

5.8 is maxim for Unique and 115 bullet. I have higher listed but am leery on that point as anything more is above the norm.

4.4 is the lowest load.

I would not go over 5 and try a few (10)

See how the gun cycles.

COAL is a bit long, you have to watch that as too long the bullet does not fit in the chamber. I think OK, but that's an opinion and not a fact.

If you know how to strip the gun down you take it down to the barrel and drop a few in. If its sticking up past the rear you are too long.

Trim length is important as well. .754 is maximum. Any more you get into head space issue as 9mm spaces on the lip.

Also, if you do not do a bit of a crimp the bullet can move back, again creating an overload.

That is a dicey subject. You want a taper crimp not roll.

9mm or small cartdige like that are not good ones to start with.
 
Ok, 9 mm Luger, that is the standard so on the right page for sure now.



5.8 is maxim for Unique and 115 bullet. I have higher listed but am leery on that point as anything more is above the norm.



4.4 is the lowest load.



I would not go over 5 and try a few (10)



See how the gun cycles.



COAL is a bit long, you have to watch that as too long the bullet does not fit in the chamber. I think OK, but that's an opinion and not a fact.



If you know how to strip the gun down you take it down to the barrel and drop a few in. If its sticking up past the rear you are too long.



Trim length is important as well. .754 is maximum. Any more you get into head space issue as 9mm spaces on the lip.



Also, if you do not do a bit of a crimp the bullet can move back, again creating an overload.



That is a dicey subject. You want a taper crimp not roll.



9mm or small cartdige like that are not good ones to start with.


Okay so I am going to load 10 rounds at 5gr tonight. For consistency I'll measure each throw or every other throw.

I'll check the COAL and compare that to my manual and the extra round.

All of my case lengths were under the max.

The crimp. Too much it won't fit and too little the bullet will do like you said.

I feel comfortable with my current crimp. I can just barely I mean barley feel the crimp. I need to measure the width of the case at the bullet part middle and near the rim of the case.

I will also check my chamber (need to clean it anyway)

Thank you for your patience and help.


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With a 115 gr bullet , the general range for Unique powder is From 4.4 grains to 7.0 grains.



The difference in components is what makes maximum pressure variations.



Some firearms handle pressure better then others.



What make , model firearm are you going to fire your reloads in? G19?



Always look into the case before seating the bullet. Does the powder level look right.



http://m.hornady.com/store/G2-1500-Electronic-Scale/



I will be using my g19 and my scorpion evo. I got some 125 gr lead powder coated bullets for the scorpion. I hear lead isn't very good for a g19. I am waiting to reload those my manuals do not hve anything current on a 125 gr for unique powder


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Being new what you need is a mentor to oversee what you're doing for awhile. It isn't complicated but it just goes better if you have someone to teach you. I'm thankful I had that when I started.
 
Being new what you need is a mentor to oversee what you're doing for awhile. It isn't complicated but it just goes better if you have someone to teach you. I'm thankful I had that when I started.



Prior to starting I read, watched and talked about reloading for a while. I know the starting price is steep so I wanted to be absolutely sure I could do it. Started yesterday and I was not comfortable with my scale. I read my book twice. I feel that I have the jist. Just a learning moment for me. My buddy at work has his own forge reloader etc. I trust him. I'm gonna talk about this mistake tomorrow at work.


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I started out reloading .38 spcl, it's a much more forgiving caliber than 9mm. I reload .380auto as well, talk about a fine line to walk!
 
Juggenrault89:

It sounds like a difference in reading and getting what you read.

We are all different, some learn better by seeing. I like to read, futz with it, then re-read as things become obviously I need to clarify.

Checking with your friend is a good idea. You will get some idea as you go along if he is a careful reloader or not. If not then find another source or more research. I know the Big Stores have reloading classes. I leaned at my step dads side and he was the best of neat, tidy and careful.

Cramp is learning curve and it sounds like you have it right. Eject a round form time to time and see if there is any setback.

Ok, this has to be taken carefully. This is getting into experienced reloader area for judgment. Always cross check any internet info both from posters and your manuals. If there is a significant disagreement on loads, stop.

Sierra is on the far edge of Unique, I would not use their high unless I crept up on it carefully. Newer manuals tend to be conservative so I am leary of that load. There can be mistakes and mis prints. I have 5 reloading manuals. Horandy and Sierra are the best two for wide variety of powder choices and they have wide range of bullets so you can find one close enough to work (as you go along)

Lymans manual is a good reference, they also list pressures and they do lead bullets as they supply casting molds for.

Lymans does not show 125 gr lead (round nose in this case) they do show 120 gr at 4.0 to 5.0. You can see how little there is there. 5 Grains bullet weight is close enough if you start low (no more than 4.2).

Sometimes the lowest loads won't cycle the action, ergo loading just a few at starting.

You might get a load at max won't cycle the action. At that point quit, get another powder and start over at the lowest load. If there is a repeat then something is wrong.


The Semi tip (truncated,) they do not list Unique for (also 120 gr.). That means it was not accurate, not that it won't work.

The issue with the Glock is leading as you noted. Hard cast can be shot in that gun but you have to be very careful and check it.

Check your bullet supplier and do some research on that specific casting.

Some are very good about quality control and others not so much.

If you do decide to shoot after research:

Best would be 5 rounds at the end of a shooting session, strip the gun down when you get home and carefully check for lead.

If none, then 10 at the end of a session, check gun, repeat, add 5 more. Once you reach a maximum you might shoot, then each time take the gun down and clean and check for lead.

Its the drawback of Polygonal rifling. It can be done but like a lot its tread very carefully area.

9mm: Max pressure is 34,000 psi. the max loads on the Lymans are 33,000 psi. As powder is non linear, you can easily have a jump with a tenth or two over what the gun will take. A different primer than what was used for the load can push it over.

Glock may put a bulge in the brass. If its bad enough you can't re-size it.
 
Juggenrault89:



It sounds like a difference in reading and getting what you read.



We are all different, some learn better by seeing. I like to read, futz with it, then re-read as things become obviously I need to clarify.



Checking with your friend is a good idea. You will get some idea as you go along if he is a careful reloader or not. If not then find another source or more research. I know the Big Stores have reloading classes. I leaned at my step dads side and he was the best of neat, tidy and careful.



Cramp is learning curve and it sounds like you have it right. Eject a round form time to time and see if there is any setback.



Ok, this has to be taken carefully. This is getting into experienced reloader area for judgment. Always cross check any internet info both from posters and your manuals. If there is a significant disagreement on loads, stop.



Sierra is on the far edge of Unique, I would not use their high unless I crept up on it carefully. Newer manuals tend to be conservative so I am leary of that load. There can be mistakes and mis prints. I have 5 reloading manuals. Horandy and Sierra are the best two for wide variety of powder choices and they have wide range of bullets so you can find one close enough to work (as you go along)



Lymans manual is a good reference, they also list pressures and they do lead bullets as they supply casting molds for.



Lymans does not show 125 gr lead (round nose in this case) they do show 120 gr at 4.0 to 5.0. You can see how little there is there. 5 Grains bullet weight is close enough if you start low (no more than 4.2).



Sometimes the lowest loads won't cycle the action, ergo loading just a few at starting.



You might get a load at max won't cycle the action. At that point quit, get another powder and start over at the lowest load. If there is a repeat then something is wrong.





The Semi tip (truncated,) they do not list Unique for (also 120 gr.). That means it was not accurate, not that it won't work.



The issue with the Glock is leading as you noted. Hard cast can be shot in that gun but you have to be very careful and check it.



Check your bullet supplier and do some research on that specific casting.



Some are very good about quality control and others not so much.



If you do decide to shoot after research:



Best would be 5 rounds at the end of a shooting session, strip the gun down when you get home and carefully check for lead.



If none, then 10 at the end of a session, check gun, repeat, add 5 more. Once you reach a maximum you might shoot, then each time take the gun down and clean and check for lead.



Its the drawback of Polygonal rifling. It can be done but like a lot its tread very carefully area.



9mm: Max pressure is 34,000 psi. the max loads on the Lymans are 33,000 psi. As powder is non linear, you can easily have a jump with a tenth or two over what the gun will take. A different primer than what was used for the load can push it over.



Glock may put a bulge in the brass. If its bad enough you can't re-size it.



Ton of info. That's great. I did like you recommended I loaded 10 rounds at 4.8-5.1 grains. (The horn. 115FMJ)

In between 1-2 rounds I threw a couple charges to maintain accuracy. I did not that my digital scale kept bouncing -.003 or as high as .005. I do not know why I zeroed and calibrated to the instructions. Thus, before checking my grains I zeroed it out (with pan). Maybe I am being overly cautious?

put 3 in my mag and cycled the slide. They all flew out no jamming. Disassembled the slide placed the round in the barrel it appeared to match the round that I saved. And it did not need any force to fall into the barrel. I plan on testing these 10 Saturday.
 
In between 1-2 rounds I threw a couple charges to maintain accuracy. I did not that my digital scale kept bouncing -.003 or as high as .005. I do not know why I zeroed and calibrated to the instructions. Thus, before checking my grains I zeroed it out (with pan). Maybe I am being overly cautious?

.1 (1/10th) grain is significant. Thousandths (.00anything) is PII (Preoccupation with Inconsequential Increments) .....

Welcome to the wonderful world of rollin' yer own!

I'll second the notion of finding a hands on mentor ..... if you can't find one in your own monkey sphere, the NRA may be able to help ...... they offer basic metallic cartridge reloading courses ...... do a search..... their site will find one of their instructors near you .......

I learned to reload the hard way: trial and error, with one book (and not the best/most highly organized- Lee Modern Reloading 1st Edition) to guide me. I had no mentor, and everyone I asked treated me like an idiot because I did not seem to know the basics...... in reality, I did not even know that much: I initially thought a grain of powder was ..... wait for it....... one little piece....

....what? "If you don't know, well then you don't know....... ask. There are only two kinds of stupid questions: The ones you needed to know the answer to and the ones you knew the answer to but asked anyway...... endeavor to ask the second kind in public, that you may spare the timid listeners the first........ So I asked. I was treated rudely by the first few individuals I inquired to for wisdom ...... and eventually fell back on reading and re-reading the one book I had ..... and then I found a couple of people that did not regard reloading as a either a black art that gave them some level of superiority to mere mortals or an avenue for some slacker kid to sue the pants off of them.......
.... Thank you, Frankie Lou Nicholson, Jeff Cooper's "Man in Nebraska" (God Rest Her Soul), and Don "Not a Hippie" Wilkes..... I have passed their knowledge and enthusiasm for "rollin' yer own", and then some, on to new generations..... Juggernault, if you have any question at all about reloading, ask. I don't guarantee a right answer, but you will get one tempered by my experience..... that said, I'm not a fan of Unique (or any flake powder).... a PITA to get to meter evenly (volumetricly) .....
 
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