New project 250-3000

I got started on my Richards Microfit. Not difficult at all to fit with a little patience (not my best virtue). The myrtle is easy to work. I tried a little Laurel Mountain Forge walnut stain in the barrel channel, and I think that is what I will use on this stock. Myrtle is a very light, almost white wood, and it took the stain well. I bedded the action overnight, this time including the barrel channel, with the barrel taped for a little clearance. Now for about 6 months' worth of sanding.
 
Ligonierbill...what was the time between you placing the order with Richard's Stocks and receiving it? I ordered another piece of wood from them around Sept. 1, and am just curious. They said 8-10 weeks.

Thx
 
I took a look at those Microfits since you guys mentioned them--I like the variety but the costs pile up pretty fast. Do the stocks come with cross bolts for reinforcements--or is that an add-on? I've used a lot of Boyds and they are OK, but generally need lots of inlet finishing--how do you compare the inlet work needed with the microfit to Boyds'?
 
Richard's stocks need probably 5X the work of Boyd's Stocks. Plus if you get the laminate stocks they are very hard on any cutting edge. You'll have to install your own cross bolts if you want as they aren't even an option that I know of.
 
I've had three Boyd's and five Microfits. Boyds are way easier...no sanding and finishing. One that went on a Savage took a couple hours of fiddling and sanding the inletting to make it fit. The other two were just a few minutes and bolted right on. Richards....the last two were inletted marvelously...just opened up the barrel channel which consumes a couple hours. One fits like it is glass bedded, amazing in my opinion. The others needed more fitting and caused some brain damage. It seems recently the quality is really a lot better than the earlier versions, like they got a better CNC machine. One they sent me maybe 6 years ago had to be returned. Wood was poor quality, and the inletting was screwed up so bad there was no way to make it work. The exterior of the Richard's Stocks require determination + hours of elbow grease + sandpaper. But the end product is usually very satisfying.
 
I am in the process of restocking two Savages. One is a Model 10 Blind Mag, stagger feed, top bolt release. The original stock was wood and I am now on my second Boyds stock on this one.

The first stock was a Boyds Thumbhole Varminter and I did not care for the why the Thumbhole fit so I removed it. The second stock is a Boyds Spike Camp and I like the way this stock fits me much more.

The Thumbhole stock screwed right on and shot very well. The Spike Camp did not screw right on and shot like crap. After epoxy bedding the receiver it now shoots just fine.

The second gun is a Savage Model 11 DBM, Bottom Bolt release and the stock for this one is a Richards Microfit Field Trekker.

This stock arrived 3 weeks earlier than was expected or promised and arrived in much nicer condition than I was ever expecting after reading comments from many members of different forums.

This was supposed to be a "snap fit" inletting but the barreled receiver nor the bottom metal and trigger guard would fit directly into it.

My best guess because I did not time it was about 1.5hrs. with a Dremel with a sanding disk, going very slowly and constantly checking, and I had all parts well fitted into the stock. Honestly I did not have to remove much material to get it to all fit.

The rest of the stock is not as rough as I was expecting it to be and at this point I feel I could screw it together and go fire it, just for effect of course. I also have to point out that there is plenty of extra material in this stock that I can sand and shape it to fit me.
Especially in the grip area as I have smaller hands and the cheek riser fits me perfectly.

Lastly this stock was ordered as an Economy grade Claro Walnut and there is just one small defect in the butt that will not effect anything and this also shows some nice grain.
 
The Richards Stock for a Tikka arrived today. Here are a few pictures that illustrate how the wood is cut. Some won't care for the laminate color, and thats part of the point to get a rather distinctive hunk of wood that I like.:D:D

The exterior is about like the last two units they sent me. The inletting isn't finished by a loooong ways, but the action and barrel fit in with about 5 minutes of scraping rough spots. The barrel channel will have to be opened up. I didn't tighten the action screws, just got them started to hold it together. (On a side note, the recoil lug on that Tikka is about the cheesiest most unhandy damn thing I've seen on a centerfire rifle. Like a scrabble tile.)
 

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Appreciate the nice words...its a "Wolverine Thumbhole" Probably will take months to get it finished. It's a winter diversion from eating myself to death...;)
 
That's a cool looking set-up CR. I have laminates by several different manufacturers--far and away the best finishing I've ever seen for CNC stocks are on the Keystone Revolution stock. I recently got a CNC router and have given some thought to trying a stock--maybe one day. My knowledge is still rudimentary, but when I see rough finishes I figure it's because the router is being optimized for the fastest production time output--which generally is a bigger bit going faster digging and as few passes as possible; to get it really smooth either much finer and slower tool paths must be used or dedicated sanders would be used for finishing I would think. Same with inlets, deep cuts require a digging bit that can leave a sharp 90 degree angle, but I'm guessing the bit is expelling the chipload up and why I often find rough chip flash at the top of some cuts.
 
Northland Shooters had laminate stocks for Savage model 12 that fit on a gun I have. It very much looks like a stock that Savage mounted on a stainless 22-250. I am pretty sure it is a Keystone stock. It fits perfectly, looks great, is finished very nicely.
 
Years ago, when i was a young lad in my early 30s, i decided to refinish the wood stock on my Savage 110.
Stripper & a tooth brush took off the "paint" they use for a stain.
Shortened LOP by 1/2" with some blocks screwed to the railing of my deck & a Skill saw.
Drilled out the buttstock & glued in a mercury recoil reducer.

I was really surprised at the lines in the wood after stripping the factory "stain" off!

I had heard about a technique for bringing out the lines more with heat from a propane torch.
WOW!
Took a nice piece of wood & really made it stand out!
Stained a white maple, if i remember correctly.
Followed by 2 coates of matt poly eurothane.
 
Cutting a stock for a new pad has been a bit more than I want to attempt, mainly due to only having a circular saw and a jig saw. From your posts it sounds like you like a challenge and are adept at doing new things. I envy that.
 
I got the Richards Microfit sanded and will start checkering today. The thing with these (this is my third) is tool marks. I forgot how frustrating it can be, ready to go to the fine paper, and, yep, there's another scuff. I think I finally have this one, though. What I still like about Richards is their huge selection and nice wood. This myrtle is going to look nice with a light stain and a Tru Oil finish.
 
ligonierbill, sure would be nice to see some pictures of your work. I am currently working on a Richards Microfit Field Trekker for a Savage action.

If you would like to PM I could give contact and we could exchange pictures.
 
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