Need Help with Arisaka

Yea, it cost me $100 dollars.
Click to expand...

The good news is that you can probably double your investment by selling the parts off. I imagine that just the bare, stripped receiver would bring an easy hundred bucks. Since the bolt matches, if they were sold together, I would not think it unreasonable to expect $150.00+ to the right buyer.

Add a couple bucks each here and there for various screws, $25.00-30.00 for the trigger guard parts, $5-10 each for other miscellaneous parts, and you have your $200.00+.
 
Tiltrotor...ummm...This may seem like a crazy idea, but would you be interested in letting me sand and refinish your stock? I'd do it for free, you'd just have to ship it. It would give me a little more experience, and I'd enjoy doing it. You can look at my previous work here. (I started refinishing in Post #12)
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=550439

I probably wouldn't do a professional gunsmith job (because I'm not) but I don't think I'd screw it up either. As I said, I could only do work on the stock, so you'd have all the metal parts with you while I'm doing it to do what you wish, as I don't do metal parts. I would refinish it with tru-oil, as many or as little coats as you'd prefer. Anyway, I should stop rambling, just tell me if you'you'd like me too. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
You know, it dawned on me tiltrotor that if you wanted to rebarrel, you could find a broken Type 38 stock and graft the necessary piece to the forearm. Some old gunsmith might even have just a cut off piece from an Arisaka that was sporterized.

Yours was cut forward of where the lower band goes, so you could very carefully at 90 degrees cut the stock at that point or maybe 1/4" forward of the step (better) then glue the missing piece from the broken stock at that point. The joint would be covered by the barrel band, and thus, invisible. I have used this technique on some guns that had "barracks bag cuts" with great success. I reinforced them with small pieces of dowel on either side of the cleaning rod channel that fit into corresponding holes in the replacement extension, then glued with strong epoxy.

The barrel would be the big nut $$ wise, but the rest of the parts would not be too much.
 
All good

I like all the ideas. It gives me hope for this rifle. Mosin-Marauder, if you really want to re-finish the stock I wouldnt have a problem sending it to you.
I will also check around for damaged stocks in case I would want to return it to full length. The carbine length it is right now does feel good while holding it. Would I need the upper wood piece and barrel band, or would a barrel band work without the wood piece?
 
Would I need the upper wood piece and barrel band, or would a barrel band work without the wood piece?
Click to expand...

As it is right now, you would need the upper handguard to use with a barrel band.
 
Tiltrotor, is there any specific amount of coats/coat you want on it? I try not to touch the barrel channel too much as that could affect accuracy and it might not fight correctly back in the stock. My process is pretty simple, I get most of the nicks and gouges out along with the original finish with 100 grit sandpaper, then I move to a moderately lighter grit, like 150 grit, then when I'm confident the stock looks good and all the nicks and gouges I could get out are out and all the original finish is gone. I polish with very fine sandpaper to give the stock a very smooth feel. 400 grit is what I used on my 514 but I can go higher/lower depending on your preference.
I'd also PM you updates on the progress I've made with the stock as I go along.
Just PM me some details or anything else you'd like to know, I'd be happy to do it whenever you want to ship it. I'll provide you my mailing address when you wish to ship it. Just make sure it's in a layer of bubble wrap or a newspaper or something so it doesn't get any unnecessary imperfections during shipping.
 
Ok

I will certainly let you know. I will wait to see if I win the bid for the upper hand guard first, or find another one so I can send everything at once so when re-finished everything will match.
 
Hmm

Im guessing more of a satin finish, if glossy more semi-gloss. Nothing very very shiny. If I remember correctly I might have a piece of wood laying around from when I built my kegerator and I finished a piece of wood on it. Ill send it as well and its about what I would want.
 
man I sure missed a lot here.
It depends; An original, unrestored non-ground rifle can bring $400.00+ in today's crazy market.

A "restored" gun would not have the value of an original, unless the seller didn't disclose that it wasn't original, and we all know that there are plenty of dirtbags out there who do that.

(And you know who you are.)
Click to expand...
this is not really very true. assuming it's in correct condition, a new barrel is not serialized, a new stock is not serialized and if I recall correctly none of the stock bands are serialized either so as long as it's restored with period correct parts, it'll hold just as much value as any other original non restored arisaka assuming that the bolt receiver and trigger group/guard/floor plate all match. that has been the rallying cry of springfield, 1917, and m1 garand shooters buying from CMP/DCM for decades. there is a difference between restored and beautified.

OP by faux 30 carbine I mean turning the rifle into a rifle that somewhat resembles the type 38 carbine. the japs cut a lot of their 38 long rifles down from 31 inch barrels to 20 inch barrels for special purpose use. yours looks like the barrel is quite a bit shorter than 20 inches so it would be a clever, slightly shorter fake that has a lot of the same characteristics, much like the guys that buy the gibbs rifles which resemble springfield 1903A4 sniper rifles but are really just chopped up, spruced up 1903A3s with new stocks and barrels. with the right stock and wood working skills, a person could make your rifle look a lot like a type 38 that was shortened to a carbine for special purposes.
 
True

Yea, nothing else is serialized so it would be all good restoring it, but im thinking that leaving is a carbine length (custom) would be cool.
 
Some stock metal is serialized, but usually it was done when the Japanese reworked their own 6.5's. Often it is underneath (The side facing the wood) when it is there. The bayonet lug almost always has the last three digits of the serial number on both the Type 38 and 99. What is the big deal with serial numbers anyway? Those are the guns that were usually in reserve anyway. Arisakas had a lot of field repair done to them. I have seen a lot of receivers on T-99's that were in service and had no serial number at all. Near the end of the war anything useable was issued in a hurry.
 
this is not really very true. assuming it's in correct condition, a new barrel is not serialized, a new stock is not serialized and if I recall correctly none of the stock bands are serialized either so as long as it's restored with period correct parts, it'll hold just as much value as any other original non restored arisaka assuming that the bolt receiver and trigger group/guard/floor plate all match. that has been the rallying cry of springfield, 1917, and m1 garand shooters buying from CMP/DCM for decades. there is a difference between restored and beautified.
Click to expand...

The problem is with the unscrupulous greedy dirtbags out there who try to sell such things as "original." And you know they exist. And some of them are pretty well-known across the nation in the gun collecting circles.

As I said before: You KNOW who you are.:mad:

If that gun were mine, I would try to restore it to its original form, not for the sake of profit, but because I have an intense dislike of any military firearm that someone has tried to do a butchered-up sporterizing job on. One of my life's missions in collecting has been DE-sporterizing as many guns as I can, providing they are restorable. This one is.:)

I have restored many such firearms for my own personal collection, and have never represented the few that I have sold as original, unless they are truly original.

The rare exceptions to my own rule is if I have replaced a very minor part such as a screw that had a badly chewed head, or a pin that somebody badly mauled trying to get it out, for example.

Nothing would please me more than for the OP to "restore" that gun to its original condition since it represents a very dramatic, world-changing and traumatic period in our history.
 
Last edited:
Ok

I would be more than happy to restore the rifle to its original condition if I were able to find the parts. With the amount of Arisakas produced it is still hard to find parts for it, especially a stock in decent condition. If the stock were restored would that affect value? Or would you leave it all banged up and dirty with plenty of scratches in it?

I will send the current stock to be re-finished and while that is happening I will be looking for a original stock. I will most likely build two rifles, one original and one carbine. It will be the best of both worlds.
 
again, difference between beautification and restoration. an absolutely pristine stock, especially on japanese rifles is almost unheard of and would raise a lot of questions as to how it made it through 2 world wars without a ding. fine grit sand paper(I like 200 grit or finer) to get rid of the top layer of dirt, oil and grime and a few coats of boiled linseed oil will do wonders to the stock.
 
I would be more than happy to restore the rifle to its original condition if I were able to find the parts.
Click to expand...

Part of the "satisfaction" of restoration to me was the hunting down of the parts.

I realize every person is different and has different levels of patience and persistence, but it is how your firearms skills and knowledge increase.

As always: YMMV

Personally, I think Mosin Marauder will eventually become a world-class parts scrounger and restorer.
 
Personally, I think Mosin Marauder will eventually become a world-class parts scrounger and restorer.
Click to expand...
Oh, stop it, you. :)

I try to help people when I can. I enjoy the challenge the care required in this kind of stuff (You can't Dremel all your problems away! (But one certainly helps!)). I'm going to have to find some new sandpaper, as I used up most of mine on my 514 Project. Also need to order some of that Micro-Mesh you told me about!


OP, do you need anymore parts? I can certainly look.
 
Hmm

I am still bidding on the upper handgaurd and the bid ends in 6 hours. I am currently the high bidder but ill be asleep when the auction ends so hopefully I will. I also need the barrel band, but its in one of the posts above. The big thing I can think of I need if I do a complete restore would be a complete original stock in at least average condition and a barrel in at least good condition with no pitting and the original front sight in place.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top