I noticed that the rear appeture seems to be oriented to the left, and have looked at groups people have posted shooting left is common with this model. The good thing is that the rifle groups so with some sight manipulation the POI should be correctable. I like to tinker anyway so its no big deal. Thanks to everyone for the help.
Need Help Identifying a Jungle Carbine.
- Thread starter TX Hunter
- Start date
I had one of the Gibbs No. 4 rifles modified to No. 5 "style" and with a couple of reservations, they did an excellent job. The "reproduction" No. 5 had the correct type buttpad and flashhider, which were both spot on. However, the handguard was not, thought that made no difference to the shooting. It also did not have an adjustable rear sight, merely the L-type battlesight. That detracted more from the appearance than the utility, however.
While we often cringe at the thought of old military rifles that were dripping with history (if that rifle could talk!), armies often had their own rifles brought up to date, nearly always by shortening the barrels. In fact, rifles were freely modified and rebuilt when there was some need or benefit. They were getting ready to make more history.
While we often cringe at the thought of old military rifles that were dripping with history (if that rifle could talk!), armies often had their own rifles brought up to date, nearly always by shortening the barrels. In fact, rifles were freely modified and rebuilt when there was some need or benefit. They were getting ready to make more history.
Tikirocker
New member
See my No5 Mk1 Serial Number Survey and FAQ thread ... for identification - first post, all your questions answered.
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=52472
Tiki.
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=52472
Tiki.
Well
Well I Bought a different box of ammo this evening, 180 Grain Seller and Bellot.
I took the Rifle out and shot close, determined that the Battle Sight is useless unless your only a few feet away, It puts the bullets in the dirt.
But with the flip up sight, It is accurate, or in my case accurate eneough.
I had to drift the front sight all the way to the left where its hanging out, and secure it with JB Weld, but now with 18 clicks up, from the sight bottomed out, I can put a very nice group dead center of a standard sheet of notebook paper with it at a Measured 130 Yards.
I measured that distance with a Bushnell Backtracker, and from the knealing resting the Jungle Carbine on a folded up Rifle Case, on top of a picknick tabel, knealing behind it, Honest to goodness Center of paper.
Its the best target I had, I taped it to a Political Sighn.
I hate that the sights are so far off, but now that I know how to set it and adjust the sights I love the way it shoots. the Other ammo I tried was Privi Partison 150 Grain Soft Points. The 180 works nicely.
Im gonna order a neck Sizing Die, and bullet seater, and make my own ammo for it. Its a neat little carbine. Thanks for all the help guys, Im a happy Camper now, Ive got the coolest looking shooter around, and dont have to feel guilty about enjoying it.
Oh other observations, with the Seller and Bellot ammo the recoil was not as fierce, and the rifle didnt seem to be as loud, I know its strange, but it was my perception. Ive never used SB ammo before, but now I like it. Also, the Rifle fed more reliably with the FMJ ammo than it did with Soft Points. Everything worked much better, and I am all happy now.
Madcrate Builder , Thanks for the Compliment, She is shooting stright now, The front sight looks a little funny but it works.
Well I Bought a different box of ammo this evening, 180 Grain Seller and Bellot.
I took the Rifle out and shot close, determined that the Battle Sight is useless unless your only a few feet away, It puts the bullets in the dirt.
But with the flip up sight, It is accurate, or in my case accurate eneough.
I had to drift the front sight all the way to the left where its hanging out, and secure it with JB Weld, but now with 18 clicks up, from the sight bottomed out, I can put a very nice group dead center of a standard sheet of notebook paper with it at a Measured 130 Yards.
I measured that distance with a Bushnell Backtracker, and from the knealing resting the Jungle Carbine on a folded up Rifle Case, on top of a picknick tabel, knealing behind it, Honest to goodness Center of paper.
Its the best target I had, I taped it to a Political Sighn.
I hate that the sights are so far off, but now that I know how to set it and adjust the sights I love the way it shoots. the Other ammo I tried was Privi Partison 150 Grain Soft Points. The 180 works nicely.
Im gonna order a neck Sizing Die, and bullet seater, and make my own ammo for it. Its a neat little carbine. Thanks for all the help guys, Im a happy Camper now, Ive got the coolest looking shooter around, and dont have to feel guilty about enjoying it.
Oh other observations, with the Seller and Bellot ammo the recoil was not as fierce, and the rifle didnt seem to be as loud, I know its strange, but it was my perception. Ive never used SB ammo before, but now I like it. Also, the Rifle fed more reliably with the FMJ ammo than it did with Soft Points. Everything worked much better, and I am all happy now.
Madcrate Builder , Thanks for the Compliment, She is shooting stright now, The front sight looks a little funny but it works.
Last edited:
Blue Train,
I would shoot that too, but its all gone, so the expensive store bought is all that left unless I reload, and ive been informed that the .303 British is should only be neck sized, and that you only get about four shots per case before it must be discarted.
I measured my fired cases with a calliper yesterday evening after firing and discovered that the shoulder had moved forward and the rest of the case swelled about .006. Which Ive been told is normal, as these rifles had oversized chambers allowing them to acomodate ammunition that may be less than perfect.
I will neck size. This rifle groups nicely, the sights are just poor due to no windage adjustment. Still I like it.
I would shoot that too, but its all gone, so the expensive store bought is all that left unless I reload, and ive been informed that the .303 British is should only be neck sized, and that you only get about four shots per case before it must be discarted.
I measured my fired cases with a calliper yesterday evening after firing and discovered that the shoulder had moved forward and the rest of the case swelled about .006. Which Ive been told is normal, as these rifles had oversized chambers allowing them to acomodate ammunition that may be less than perfect.
I will neck size. This rifle groups nicely, the sights are just poor due to no windage adjustment. Still I like it.
kilimanjaro
New member
It's still a good-looking rifle and should be fun to shoot. Do get a magnet and check the flash hider on the muzzle, see if it's original steel or repro aluminum.
Might want to think about having the scope mount holes filled and then re-blue with the correct British color, what the heck, it's a fun rifle, right?
There were some No. 4s converted to No. 5, I believe for use in mountainous Cyprus in the 1950s, or by the Cyprian police after the British left.
Might want to think about having the scope mount holes filled and then re-blue with the correct British color, what the heck, it's a fun rifle, right?
There were some No. 4s converted to No. 5, I believe for use in mountainous Cyprus in the 1950s, or by the Cyprian police after the British left.
Killimenjaro
Thanks, I will enjoy the rifle, If I do use a scope it will be a no tap type.
I put a magnet to the flash hider, and it stuck. It must be real.
This is a strange piece, its so correct, except for the date, the front of the bolt is flat, the but pad is not hard, its kind of medium. Its a very good fake.
The point of aim was to the left, but the rifle groups nicely.
Ive got a feeling this will end up as one of my favorites. Its sitting right next to my 1903 A3 maby they will become allies.
Thanks, I will enjoy the rifle, If I do use a scope it will be a no tap type.
I put a magnet to the flash hider, and it stuck. It must be real.
This is a strange piece, its so correct, except for the date, the front of the bolt is flat, the but pad is not hard, its kind of medium. Its a very good fake.
The point of aim was to the left, but the rifle groups nicely.
Ive got a feeling this will end up as one of my favorites. Its sitting right next to my 1903 A3 maby they will become allies.
Ignition Override
New member
Around the mag wells of my four Enfield #4s, the metal shape of the thin frame corresponds exactly with the contour of the wood.
On both of my authentic #5s (one is from Joe Salter), the metal contour does not have the same exact shape/contour as the wood.
I don't know whether my LE #4/#5 book by Charles Stratton mentions this.
It is kind of subtle, and you wouldn't normally compare this area.
Tiki: Have you or any other guys noticed the two different contours?
TX Hunter: Without the lightening cuts, your action might be a bit stronger than with original #5s.
On both of my authentic #5s (one is from Joe Salter), the metal contour does not have the same exact shape/contour as the wood.
I don't know whether my LE #4/#5 book by Charles Stratton mentions this.
It is kind of subtle, and you wouldn't normally compare this area.
Tiki: Have you or any other guys noticed the two different contours?
TX Hunter: Without the lightening cuts, your action might be a bit stronger than with original #5s.
madcratebuilder
New member
Genuine flash hider is machined steel and no casting lines, most repros are cast steel with obvious casting lines top and bottom.
Master Blaster 2
Moderator
If the rubber pad is origional it will be rock hard. Here is a replacment that I used.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=502460&catid=5833
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=502460&catid=5833
I have a phony "jungle carbine" made out of a No. 1 Mk III action, but the only identifying mark on it is the logo "Jungle Rifle" neatly and professionally engraved on the side of the receiver in relatively large and deep characters.
Anyone have any idea who made these? It was actually very well done.
Anyone have any idea who made these? It was actually very well done.
Keg,
That explains the marking, but the 1942 date, plus correct reciever, incorrect bolt face, and lack of lightening flutes on barrel under the hadguard ?
Its a strange bird indeed, but very nice.
I love the way this carbine carries though, man it feels good.
Its a Mistery Carbine
That explains the marking, but the 1942 date, plus correct reciever, incorrect bolt face, and lack of lightening flutes on barrel under the hadguard ?
Its a strange bird indeed, but very nice.
I love the way this carbine carries though, man it feels good.
Its a Mistery Carbine
Tikirocker
New member
Ig,
If you are talking about the trigger guard then yes, the action cover loop of the No5 trigger guard is a rounded loop and waisted, unlike the even U of the No4 cover. This is correct, it is this way as a further lightening measure on the No5. I cover this in the FAQ section of my Survey for the No5 Mk1 at surplusrifle.
Tiki.