My poor Shield! Went for a swim!

TailGator wrote:
I treat salt water, muddy water, and clean water differently ... I start with a clean water rinse. I want the salt out, and I want the minute particles of dirt out, too, ... get it clean with clear water, then get it dry with whatever combination of disassembly, air, and heat (blow dryer) works, and apply appropriate oils for preservation and lubrication.
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TailGator makes a very good point; with salt water or muddy water the salt or mud makes moisture cling to the metal, so it has to be removed with fresh water first. Thank you, TailGator, for giving us some very good advice.
 
You "can't hurt my Glock, etc." guys need to think about your springs. They are (or should be) high carbon steel, and they are very thin. It doesn't take much rust to ruin them.
 
I haven't had that experience yet with several swims over a couple of years. Indeed, the only rust I've seen was on the rear sight. Springs were still just fine; but I agree those are probably the parts you need to keep an eye on in outdoors environments.
 
Thank you, TailGator, for giving us some very good advice.
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Aw, shucks, you're welcome.

I think what others have stated though is correct that a chemical spray can also displace the salt water.
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I live on the coast in Florida, and I have gone through a bit of WD40 in my life. I have not done any scientific tests, but I have developed a general sense that flushing with fresh water first is better. Certainly if no fresh water is at hand, I would use the spray, perhaps a bit more liberally than otherwise. In neither case would I make that the last step of cleaning and lubricating, though.

I don't mean this to be criticism of Bill DeShiv's stance at all. I largely agree with him. As I said earlier in this thread, I think that most oils need a bit of periodic attention in the form of cleaning and/or re-application. It seems to me that the thinnest components of oils are usually the most prone to evaporation, leaving the thicker components behind, and I thus see most oils thicken with time. Mr. DeShiv might even agree with that, if we ask him. (Please consider that an invitation for comment based on your extensive experience, kind sir.)

Edited to add: I already thought of an exception to my own rule. When I get back from kayaking, I hose off the 'yaks and accessories, and hit the various spring clips with WD40 and put them away. To illustrate the point in the second paragraph, sometimes when we don't get back to the kayaks for a few months, they are a little sticky. Is that because the WD40 thickened, or because I didn't hit them hard enough the last time I cleaned them? I honestly don't know, but another shot of WD40 almost always gets them running smoothly again.
 
I appreciate all the advice. I had it cleaned and oiled by the end of the next day. It ran well at the range and I will clean again today. The water is now a distant memory.

The WD-40 is still leeching out of my pistol and I just keep wiping it up! It should be gone soon. So far, that is the only negative, but I expected that somewhat.
 
Not for nothing.. It fell into a river. River water is fresh water not salt water. Nothing is going to happen to that Shield overnight. I'd unload it, shake it a few times and then leave it out...no problem.
 
Yes, all oils seem to thicken with time.
If you were to spray your spring clips with WD 40, and then wipe them dry, they would probably not be sticky.
WD 40 should not just be sprayed on guns and left to dry. The proper application is to wipe off the excess.
If your application of WD 40 shows a whitish color- that is water. Shake off and spray again, until no indication of water is present and dry.
Over-use of WD 40 seems to be a problem. If you apply too much and then let it sit and attract dust over a long period I guess it could make a mess. I have never done so. Proper application is the key.
 
Tailgator has a good point about cleaning with fresh water, if it was salt water, muddy water, or heavily chlorinated water like a swimming pool.. chlorine will rust metal faster as it is an oxidizer.

WD40 im sure works in a pinch if you're rough camping or something and don't have access to things like blow driers, heat guns, or air compressors.

WD40 might work well for displacing oil but it's a lously long term lubricant it tends to elaborate/dry up fairly quickly, great for rusty bolts.. and not much else
In my unscientific test found it does not hold up to salt spray very well.

Using it to dry your gun out would probably be fine, using it on a normal basis not so much.
With that said I'd still feel the need to do a detail strip after using wd40 because I would be afraid of it interacting with other lubricants.. it's not something I would use on my gun and be like.. oh it's good to go.. I don't need to clean it now.

As a stop gap I think it would be fine but not a cureall.

in my experience of the different things I've tested Eezox is the best and it protects even when dry.. I think it works so well because it's specific gravity is 1.1, heavier then water.

Breakfree CLP works just as good as eezox in my exp although long term I think the CLP may actually attract moisture and promote rust.. no testing just something I observed on one gun.

I bought some frog lube but never got around to testing it although the mfg makes bold claims (dont they all)

If you normally use CLP or Eezox I would not be concerned with a dip in the water besides as tailgator mentioned mud and grime, in which case I think their advice for a flush would be good.

The only thing I use regularly on my guns is eezox and slide glide.
I'd be afraid of the wd40 actually harming what is otherwise excellent corrosion protection.

I say protect your gun with the best rust proven you can before you head out.
It's the primary thing I look for in lubricants, in all honestly it does not take much to lubricate a gun so rust protection is more important imo.. You could use just about anything to lubricate a gun if you had too, baby oil, motor oil, hell probably bacon grease.
 
I dropped my LCP in salt water, just ran it under the sink with clean water. Then dumped in my container of "Ballistol Milk" which I keep handy. No problems of any rust later. Shoots fine.(for a LCP lol)
 
For crying out loud the pistol was not recovered from the Titanic it just got wet. Dry it, lube it and get on with life!!
 
Run it through the dishwasher. That is what I always did with my department issued Glocks. Top rack. Clean bore with cu solvant. Lube with Mobil 1. 5w20. I think that little 23 had about 20k rounds through it when I changed agencies. Only 50 rounds per year through the 27.
 
As Department Rangmaster I made sure each officer shot at least quarterly for the reluctant ones, the others had unlimited ammo (within reason) if they fired it on approved courses each range day. We had some darn good shooters in the Dept. and as usual a few that you had to force to be proficient with the pistol. I never could understand the reluctance of an officer to learn methods to keep them alive.
 
Mikey

I once had a retired NYPD officer on a different board tell me the department tried to screen out people who was overly interested in firearms.

The idea was that their job focused more on verbal skills then using a gun so they didn't want people over zealous with one.

Im not sure how true that is, or if it is if it's reflected across the country but it would explain why so many officers hardly shoot.
 
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