My poor Shield! Went for a swim!
- Thread starter Nathan
- Start date
Glad things are working out for you, Nathan.
I treat salt water, muddy water, and clean water differently with regard to any metal or mechanical object. With either of the first two, I start with a clean water rinse. I want the salt out, and I want the minute particles of dirt out, too, before I add any oil and start glomming them together to make an abrasive paste. I get it clean with clear water, then get it dry with whatever combination of disassembly, air, and heat (blow dryer) works, and apply appropriate oils for preservation and lubrication.
As for WD40, it is good at what it does. I am kind of in the middle between the people who say never use it on the one hand, and those who say it never gets sticky on the other. I have seen many oils, including WD40, get thick and sticky over time, and become real magnets for particulate matter when they do. Personally, I think most oils need to be subject to occasional cleaning and refreshing for exactly that reason. Each has its own time span. Some people expect oils to be permanent, and I'm not sure there are any that I would count on to be so.
I treat salt water, muddy water, and clean water differently with regard to any metal or mechanical object. With either of the first two, I start with a clean water rinse. I want the salt out, and I want the minute particles of dirt out, too, before I add any oil and start glomming them together to make an abrasive paste. I get it clean with clear water, then get it dry with whatever combination of disassembly, air, and heat (blow dryer) works, and apply appropriate oils for preservation and lubrication.
As for WD40, it is good at what it does. I am kind of in the middle between the people who say never use it on the one hand, and those who say it never gets sticky on the other. I have seen many oils, including WD40, get thick and sticky over time, and become real magnets for particulate matter when they do. Personally, I think most oils need to be subject to occasional cleaning and refreshing for exactly that reason. Each has its own time span. Some people expect oils to be permanent, and I'm not sure there are any that I would count on to be so.
g.willikers
New member
Keep a container of mineral spirits or auto trans fluid around.
When it's not convenient to clean and lube something, just submerge it in the container and get to it later.
Lazy man's solution.
When it's not convenient to clean and lube something, just submerge it in the container and get to it later.
Lazy man's solution.
Shotgun Willy
New member
When I'm finished washing my 1860 C&B, I rinse it off with Isopropyl Alcohol, which will combine with the water and then evaporate rapidly. After that it's a light lube and it's good to go. Acetone will work even better, but I think that'd be a bad deal with a Tupperware pistol.
g.willikers
New member
Well, I just wouldn't get a decent nights sleep not knowing if WD-40 gets sticky.
So I sprayed some on a painted metal surface and let it sit for a couple of days.
Guess what.
It does get a bit sticky.
Didn't seem to interfere with keeping the metal protected.
Granted it wasn't very long for a true test.
Maybe a week or so would be a better one.
I'll give that a go next and check for evaporation, too.
But heck everything evaporates if exposed to the air long enough.
So I sprayed some on a painted metal surface and let it sit for a couple of days.
Guess what.
It does get a bit sticky.
Didn't seem to interfere with keeping the metal protected.
Granted it wasn't very long for a true test.
Maybe a week or so would be a better one.
I'll give that a go next and check for evaporation, too.
But heck everything evaporates if exposed to the air long enough.
Bill DeShivs
New member
WD 40 gets no "stickier" than any other oil.
JoeSixpack
New member
a little late but strip the gun into major components and use a heat gun works well for driving out moisture.. just don't cook the gun in one spot, keep the heat moving.
Be careful heat guns can get the parts hot enough to burn you if you're not careful but you can be sure the moisture is gone.
otherwise blow drier will work but slower.
Lot of people recommend wd40.. I never use that method personally.
I would just plan on doing a good cleaning to it in when you get time no matter what method you use or do nothing.
The easy to get to area's aren't the problem, it's the nooks and crannies that you can't easily get to that are more of a concern.
Be careful heat guns can get the parts hot enough to burn you if you're not careful but you can be sure the moisture is gone.
otherwise blow drier will work but slower.
Lot of people recommend wd40.. I never use that method personally.
I would just plan on doing a good cleaning to it in when you get time no matter what method you use or do nothing.
The easy to get to area's aren't the problem, it's the nooks and crannies that you can't easily get to that are more of a concern.
Run scolding hot water on it and through it. Get all the S%$# out of it let it flash dry. Pour some clean motor oil on all metal parts and deal with it in the morning. When u walk ,strip, I use break clean on it blow it out break clean all oil off it hot water rinse, the IG the he'll out of it ,Q tips gun scrub etc. Scolding hot water ,flash dry and blow with air compressor wipe lightly with oil and its time to shoot.
Ive gone into the river a couple of times while wearing my handguns. Its really not that big a deal. If it was in a fanny pack, unless you went for an extended swim, I cant imagine it really got much more than just "wet".
Mine were always in my daily carry holster, and each time I was in the water everything I had on was well soaked, including the gun and its mags. Once back on shore, I would just shake everything out, and deal with it later that night when we camped. A couple of times, when the river was really muddy, I did rinse the gun out well in a "clearer" side stream, trying to get any grit out that might have settled in.
Once we made camp for the night, Id strip the gun and clean it the best as I could, and give everything a blast of WD40 prior to reassembly. I always keep one of those little cans (about the size of a small pepper spray can) in my ditty bag, for just such an emergency.
Once I got home, Id strip the gun and give it a better cleaning, and usually another blast of WD 40 into the internals and shake it out.
I know a lot of people go off about WD40, but I used it for decades when it was really all that was available, and never once had any of these problems youre supposed to have with it.
I think the problems come in, like as with anything else, when people go way overboard with it, and dont apply it properly. I also think a lot of what you hear about it, is just internet BS being passed on and on.
If youre wearing a gun around on the water, WD40 and a good lanyard are two things you want to have.
Mine were always in my daily carry holster, and each time I was in the water everything I had on was well soaked, including the gun and its mags. Once back on shore, I would just shake everything out, and deal with it later that night when we camped. A couple of times, when the river was really muddy, I did rinse the gun out well in a "clearer" side stream, trying to get any grit out that might have settled in.
Once we made camp for the night, Id strip the gun and clean it the best as I could, and give everything a blast of WD40 prior to reassembly. I always keep one of those little cans (about the size of a small pepper spray can) in my ditty bag, for just such an emergency.
Once I got home, Id strip the gun and give it a better cleaning, and usually another blast of WD 40 into the internals and shake it out.
I know a lot of people go off about WD40, but I used it for decades when it was really all that was available, and never once had any of these problems youre supposed to have with it.
I think the problems come in, like as with anything else, when people go way overboard with it, and dont apply it properly. I also think a lot of what you hear about it, is just internet BS being passed on and on.
If youre wearing a gun around on the water, WD40 and a good lanyard are two things you want to have.
Bill DeShivs
New member
"If youre wearing a gun around on the water, WD40 and a good lanyard are two things you want to have."
I agree with AK103K. And I might add one more thing- "And the good sense to use them."
I agree with AK103K. And I might add one more thing- "And the good sense to use them."
jackstrawIII
New member
Dry it out with a hair dryer. Then oil as normal.
Done.
Done.
Bill DeShivs
New member
Apparently, there are some people who are not smart enough to use WD 40 properly.
Bill I think that makes your 5th post in support of WD-40 on this thread. You seem really passionate about it. Do you own stock in them or something? 
In all seriousness AK103K's tip of carrying one of the travel sized bottles of WD-40 while camping makes sense as it combines a number of features into one item and reduces what you'd need to carry. While I might prefer other options to WD-40 when at home, I'm not going camping carrying a can of Gun Scrubber and a bottle of Slip 2000.
In all seriousness AK103K's tip of carrying one of the travel sized bottles of WD-40 while camping makes sense as it combines a number of features into one item and reduces what you'd need to carry. While I might prefer other options to WD-40 when at home, I'm not going camping carrying a can of Gun Scrubber and a bottle of Slip 2000.
Bill DeShivs
New member
I like WD 40. I have no interest in the company at all.
I have years of usage of WD 40-probably 40 years, and I use it quite a bit.
It works extremely well for water displacement. I use it after putting entire knives and sometimes guns in an ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, I rinse with water, shake out, then flush with WD 40. I have used this process on $10,000 antique Sheffield switch blades, and have never had any of the problems alluded to here. I wipe my guns down with it, and have never had a rust problem. I use in on my buffs for polishing-it makes the compound cut cleaner. I use it on my bass guitar strings- makes them last longer and sound brighter.
Make no mistake- I use other lubricant/protectants- and actually endorse one of them.
But I find WD 40 particularly useful for a number of things.
I also dislike people promoting internet bs about WD 40. I actually have a LOT of experience with it. There are better rust protectants, and there are better lubes, but WD 40 is a staple in my shop, in my range bag, and in my bug out bag.
I have years of usage of WD 40-probably 40 years, and I use it quite a bit.
It works extremely well for water displacement. I use it after putting entire knives and sometimes guns in an ultrasonic cleaner. After cleaning, I rinse with water, shake out, then flush with WD 40. I have used this process on $10,000 antique Sheffield switch blades, and have never had any of the problems alluded to here. I wipe my guns down with it, and have never had a rust problem. I use in on my buffs for polishing-it makes the compound cut cleaner. I use it on my bass guitar strings- makes them last longer and sound brighter.
Make no mistake- I use other lubricant/protectants- and actually endorse one of them.
But I find WD 40 particularly useful for a number of things.
I also dislike people promoting internet bs about WD 40. I actually have a LOT of experience with it. There are better rust protectants, and there are better lubes, but WD 40 is a staple in my shop, in my range bag, and in my bug out bag.
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