my Arisaka ... help me

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That's a Type 38, and SHOULD be chambered for 6.5x50mmR (6.5 Jap).

Get it inspected by a trustworthy gunsmith before firing.
If it is safe to shoot, you'll probably find it to be highly entertaining and enjoyable. The Type 38s have a reputation for being smooth, accurate, and well built.
 
Yep, a Type 38 (adopted in the 38th year of the empire...) You're pretty much stuck with PPU or Norma brass but they're both good quality.

Tony
 
Yep the gasholes give it away as 6.5.

You might be really surprised with how it shoots. I really like both of mine. Of course I wish I had a 7.7 because of the availability to form brass out of 30-06.
 
oh? so it's definitly a type 38? which picture are the gasholes on? i still have time to cancel my order for the type 99 ammo, i just want to be sure this is a type 38. did the type 38 come before the type 99, or after? ... i suppose i better start looking for some ammo for it. thank you for posting my pics, and thank you all again for all the info.
 
Type 38 is engraved on the receiver in kanji. It is in the 4th picture. The 2 holes flanking the engraving are the gas vent holes.

Cancel the 7.7mm ammo order immediately. You can return loaded ammunition.

-TL

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
 
... thank you, every time i get home, and look at this forum, i'm learning. all of you have been very helpful, and very welcoming. not sure what kanji is, but sounds like you know your stuff!

can anyone tell me which came first, the 99 or the 38 ?

thanks again!
 
... i'm looking at the graf site now, which do you you guys think i should order? the 139gr PSP ammo, or the 156gr SPRN ammo? . . . . i have no idea which is "better" ?
 
Kanji: a system of Japanese writing using Chinese characters.

139gr Vs 156gr. I assume you are just target shooting so either is good. The 156 will have a little more recoil than the 139 but not much.
 
RaySendero , do you know if the ammo from Graf is shot shell, or fmj? . . . . and thank you precision_shooter and tangolima.
 
From the description the ammo from grafs is
PSP = Pointed Soft Point (Pointed jacketed bullet usually with lead exposed at the very tip)

SPRN = Soft Point Round Nose (exposes lead at the tip but with a rounded tip instead of pointed)
 
The type 38 was adopted in the 38th year of the Japanese empire and the type 99 in the 99th year of the empire. So the 99 came much later...

Tony
 
. . . psp, sprn ... see, i learn things from you guys everyday! when i get home later tonight, i'm going to see if i can follow the links some of you provided to see if i am able to determine what actual year my firearm was made. and at least i now also know that the 38 was older, which for me is more interesting. thanks again!
 
My T99 will not feed the round nose ammo from the magazine. It will chanber if hand fed into the chamber, or if it is loaded into right side if the magazine. Rounds on the left side of the magazine will not push (feed) into the chamber when I try to push the bolt forward (closed). Rounds load into the magazine staggered alternating slightly to the left and slightly to the right. The ones that are left Ward don't feed. No probs at all feeding the spire point rounds.
 
The type 38 was adopted in the 38th year of the Japanese empire and the type 99 in the 99th year of the empire. So the 99 came much later...
Click to expand...

while the Japanese dated many things for the year of introduction, using a system based on the year of the Emperor's reign (which reset with each new Emperor) it was not their only system.

The type 99 did come well after the Type 38, but not as long as the numbers suggest.

The Type 38, and the 6.5mm round were introduced in 1905. This lines up with the 38th year of the Meiji period (1868-1912). The Taisho period followed (1912-1926) and then the Showa period (1926-1989)

The Type 99 was introduced in 1939. This was not the 99th year of any Emperor, they used the Imperial year (2599) instead. The most famous example of this dating system is the Zero Fighter. The Mitsubishi A6M fighter plane was adopted by the Japanese Navy in 1940. This was Imperial year 2600 , and the plane was designated "Type 0", commonly known as the Zero thereafter.


Before you buy any ammo for your Arisaka, check the BORE, at the muzzle, to see if it is a 6.5mm (.26cal) or 7.7mm (.30 cal). easiest is to use a .30 bullet. Stick it in the muzzle. If its a 6.5 the .30 bullet won't go very far in. If its a 7.7 the .30 bullet will go in nearly up to its widest point.

MANY Arisakas were rebored in the US, since Japanese ammo was unobtainable for many years, bores and or chambers were often recut, to take something the user could get, either another commercial round or a wildcat. Sometimes without being marked as such.

The best way to be certain is to take the rifle to a gunsmith, and have the bore measured and a chamber cast done.

This will tell you what the rifle you have actually is, which might be different from what it ought to be, based on its model.
 
You have a Type 38 made by Kokura and it is a series 22 . It is in 6.5mm . Your rifle was made about 1930 ish . It was made before the Type 99 .
 
thank you ernie8, i was curious of the general ballpark of when the firearm was made. . . 44 AMP , thank you for giving me the insight... now i'm nervous to fire my gun ... i do not personally know a lisensed gunsmith near me, and i hope i would not get ripped off by asking for help by a local smith.

valleyforge.1777 , i was on the fence about which kind of ammo to purchase, but if you have had better luck with the pointed rounds, maybe i should go with those.

as always, all of you have been of HUGE help. thank you again for the enourmous feedback. i'm a beginer with Japanese weapons, and didn't know where else to turn for help. thanks so much! i will keep all updated.
 
Most 6.5mm rifles that have been rechambered to 6.5 Roberts were hand stamped to show it was done . Just fire a 6.5mm Jap round in your rifle , tied to a tire with a string if that would make you feel safe , and compare the fired case to an unfired round . If they are close to being the same you are good to go . If the fired case has the shoulder moved way forward , your rifle has been rechambered , but other than fire forming the case you will not have hurt anything . Most gunsmiths would have no idea about a Japanese WWII rifle . Your rifle has an earlier type bore with a larger groove diameter , plus your bore looks weak . An undersized 139 boat tail bullet may not grab the rifling well and start to tumble after being fired . I would go with the long round nose bullet with more bearing surface . You really do need to clean up the bore . There were NO Japanese rifle made that were not safe to fire . They used the same steel source as the machine guns , navel guns , aircraft motors and so on . None of those made late war " blew up " when used . The navy special rifle did have a cast receiver , but since the bolt locked into the steel barrel it was plenty strong enough to fire . I fire mine with no problem . The problem was when fools fired training rifles with no locking lugs on the bolts . I have seen several that were sporterized before they launched the bolt with the first shot .
 
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