my Arisaka ... help me

Bohb

Inactive
Recently I have purchased an Arisaka from a buddy. He inherited the gun from his late father. He has zero knowledge of guns, aside from telling me that his father "brought it home" from Japan. No way of validating this. I have owned Mausers (which I LOVE) but have never had an Arisaka. The one thing that I quickly discovered though, is how difficult finding ammo for them is. To start with, I have a work buddy that asked me if the Arisaka uses "Berdan, or Boxer" type primers??? I have been VERY unsuccessful at finding this answer. Can anyone tell me which they use? Also, I sent a picture of the firearm to another buddy of mine, that believes it to be a "type 99" ... though again, I cannont confirm that either. I will be attempting to attatch photos. Until then, can someone please tell me which kind of primer most Arisaka use? Thank you in advance.
. . . I do promise, I have many more questions about this firearm to follow.
 
Arisakas like most other guns can be both primer type. There is some 6.5 and 7.7 ammo available but if I owned a type 99 I would reload for it using 30-06 brass sized and trimmed to length. Or I'm sure PPU makes brass for it. I know they make 6.5 brass for my type 38.
 
don't know how to "trim"

i've noticed this word "trimmed" in several mentions of this firearm. i do not know how to "trim" or have any tools to do so. i actually have a box of 20 rounds for this firearm on back order... so who knows when it will ever come in. i do appriciate the response though. i am still attempting to attatch photos.
 
can't figure out how to attatch photos.

... also, i guess i'm to old to figure out how to attatch a photo... i tried using a third party upload program, just can't get it to work. if anyone is willing to post my ten pictures of my gun, let me know, and i will mail them to you. sorry, old age and new tech stuff don't always mix.
 
Primer type only applies to loading your own ammo. Sizing the case, seating the primer, filling with exact weight of and type of powder, inserting bullet and seating to correct depth in the case, all of which requires a certain set of tools to do. So your “buddy” was trying to sound smart and “in the know” to you but I bet he doesn’t know much more than different primer types. I would ask him, why the primer type matters...

I’ve only been loading my own ammo for a few years, but basically I’ve learned that berdan primer cases can not be reloaded, or can but takes a lot more effort so people usually don’t bother, while boxer primed ammo , you can remove the old primer after you fire the round then replace with a new boxer primer.

Again all this info is only relevant if you plan to buy all the equipment to load your own ammo for it. If you want to keep it, it may only be good as a wallhanger until you can find some ammo.

Here is some I found using the “ammo seek” app. It’s not cheap ammo u less you can find some old surplus ammo somewhere.

150grain
https://www.outdoorlimited.com/rifl...ion-pc77x58sp-150-grain-soft-point-20-rounds/

http://www.selwayarmory.com/pci-7-7x58mm-japanese-150-gr-psp-box-of-20.html

https://www.steinelammo.com/product/7-7-x-58-japanese-arisaka-150gr-sp-light-recoil/

https://www.ammunitiontogo.com/product_info.php/pName/7-7-jap-150-gr-spbt-pci-20-rounds

https://www.venturamunitions.com/ventura-heritage-7-7x58-japanese-150gr-sp-ammo-20-rounds/

174 grain
https://www.steinelammo.com/product/7-7-x-58-japanese-arisaka-174gr-fmjbt-accuracy-optimized/

Also, to attach photos I usually host them on imgur for free then copy the “forum” link and paste into your message. If you send them to me I can upload them.
 
To attach low resolution's pictures, go to the advanced tab in the right below the message box.

Click manage attachments two boxes down.

You can pick a photo off your computer.

It has to be under 150 KB size, the photo editor may do that or you can use the SEND TO in the email and it will give you a choice of sizes.

You may have to play with it, medium works I believe and large may.

Welcome, looks like you have a steep learning curve, but you have good help here.
 
Norma makes high quality brass for 7.7Jap. I have reloaded for a friends MDL 99, that his father had brought home from WWII.

He had the bolt turned so he could mount a scope. This rifle turned out to be more accurate than my sexy new 7Mag. This was in 1976.

From what I have read, the Arisaka, if a decent example, is nearly bombproof. The last production was supposed to be notably inferior to the early issues.

I have only seen Boxer primed brass. I haven't heard of any milsup 7.7JAP, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
 
How much do you plan on shooting that gun?

If you plan on shooting it a lot then getting into reloading might be the way to go. (Reloading in itself can be an interesting hobby anyway)

If you just plan on shooting it once in a while it might make more sense to just buy the occasional box or two and call it good.
 
Make sure that it's one that you can shoot. I forget, but there were a number made for training that one should never attempt to fire.
 
I load 6.5 & 7.7 Jap from time to time. I have never owned a round of Jap military. My brass is Norma or formed from 3006 for the 7.7. It uses .311 bullets same as 303 Brit & 7.65mm Mauser. If the flower is ground off reciever ring the rifle was taken after McAuthurs decree.
This has no effect on the rifle but US military was allowed to take them from piles of captured and surrendered rifles. There is a chance of getting a rifle with wrong bolt. I would
fire 1st shot with a string. Jap action is suppose to be strong as a tank. I'm not into Milsurp rifles but early Japs are much better rifles than Mosins. Never were popular because ammo
was hard to come by. No Jap surplus was ever avaible to any extent. Rumor says it was deep sized in the ocean. Back in 50s & 60s a box of Norma 6.5 or 7.7 ammo cost about the
same as the rifle was worth. My Dad was WW2 vet and brought home a 6.5. He was also the leading electrician in town and converted many jap rifles to 3way floor lamps.
 
If you want to load your own and can't find brass, 8mm Mauser is easy to size to 7.7x58 and only comes out 1mm short. I've converted a lot of 06 and some 8mm Mauser brass for my 2 type 99 Arisaka rifles. If you have a type 38, then ammo is going to be a lot more trouble.

I've also found that the thicker neck of converted '06 brass gives better accuracy in my rifles.

Tony
 
i've noticed this word "trimmed" in several mentions of this firearm.

In this case, "trim" refers to reloaders, using their tools to trim (shorten) a longer case to the desired length.


Pictures would certainly be a huge help.


Odds are that your Arisaka is one of two rifles, either the Type 38 (6.5mm) or the Type 99 (7.7mm) The Type 38 was the standard rifle until the Type 99 was introduced in 1939. Both types served throughout the war.

They use a modified Mauser design, the biggest difference is the firingpin and safety.

You won't find any "surplus" Japanese ammo. Unlike European rounds, Japanses military ammo was never brought to the US after WWII, in any quantity.

The 7,7x58mm (7.7mm Jap, 7.7mm Arisaka) is identical in performance to the .303 British. Same bullet, same speed. The cases are different, so the ammo is NOT interchangeable.

Commercial ammo is scarce and expensive. Handloaders can make 7.7 Arisaka brass from .30-06 cases by trimming the 06 brass to the right length, then running it through a 7.7mm sizer die. I've made quite a few that way. Sometimes you can find commercial 7.7 brass for reloading. I got some from Graf & Sons, but it was a long time ago.


Has your rifle been sporterized? Or does it have all its original features??
(again, pics would really help) Some features were dropped or modified during the production run, and can give a rough estimate of the time of manufacture.

The Type 99 had a number of unique features when introduced, some were dropped later in the war. The list includes a sliding dust cover over the action, the AA rear sight, and a folding monopod. Very rare to find the rifle with the dustcover, they were usually removed (and thrown away) by the troops, because they rattle. The monopod is kind of flimsy, and often was also discarded, to save a bit of weight. The AA rear sight has fold down arms, on each side, with notches in them, used for "leading" low flying planes. This was dropped from production during the war.

One thing to look at, is the receiver. Arisakas had the Imperial Crest (a chrysanthemum) on them. To "save face" this crest was ground off or defaced when the rifles were surrendered after the war. Not every one, but most. A rifle with an intact "Mum" is worth more to collectors, as this is a strong indication (but not absolute proof) that the rifle was a battlefield pick up, and not surrendered after the war.


One word about the "strength" of the Arisaka action. Ok, two words, they are, and they aren't. There were some made during the closing months of the war that are not quality arms, some are even reported to have been made of cast iron. These "last ditch" rifles are heard of more than seen, and should never be fired, if you do happen to have one.

The stories about the Arisaka action's strength comes from blow up tests done by P.O. Ackley, after the war. He discovered that Arisakas actually took more to blow them up than Mausers, or Springfields, or anything else.

HOWEVER, blow up strength is NOT anything useful its just the point where the action fails. Doesn't matter to the shooter if that point is 90,000psi or 112,000, both are waaay beyond what proper (service) ammo produces. Rifles can be damaged and rendered unserviceable by pressures well below the blow up point.

Enjoy the piece of history you have, and, see if you can find a bayonet to go with it. They aren't cheap like they once were, but a milsurp Arisaka just seems naked without one..,:rolleyes:
 
You'd better just buy some factory made ammo from some place. Graf's sells that sort of stuff along with others.
If you question the definition of "trimmed", you probably shouldn't dive right into case modification.
 
I have both a Type 38 and Type 99 and as was said above, the type of primer, berden or boxer, is irreverent to the rifle. It just matters if you handload. As to ammo for it, PPU makes good stuff for both the 6.5 Type 38 and 7.7 Type 99 and it's boxer primed so it's easier to handload.
 
The PPU 6.5 mm and 7.7 mm ammo is good stuff. The cases are very good quality for re-loading.

My Japanese rifles are mostly gone. BTW: The pristine Jinsen Arsenal bayonets picked from Korea in 1963 sold for more than some Arisaka rifles.
 
Maybe a drive-by poster?
Lots of information given to him, but not a peep from them in almost 24 hours.

Maybe frustration over posting pics made him go elsewhere?
 
thank you all so much

oh wow... i'm a bit overwhealmed. Thank you all for the enourmous amount of feedback. All of it is very helpful in my search to learn more about this gun. i just got off work, and come to find that this is a VERY alive forum. i did send some pics of my firearm to a member on here that offered to post them for me, so please stay tuned to see them.

while waiting for the pics to be posted, what i can tell everyone... just like a Mauser, having the crest in tact is a nice touch to any firearm. unfortunatly the mum has been ground off my firearm. the gun itself does appear to be in fantastic shape (though i'm no professional) the rifflings seem crisp and clean, i did my best to take a photo of them. it does still have the cleaning rod... but for some reason it seems to be stuck. i've owned mausers, and have never had this problem. has anyone else ever had this kind of issue with an arisaka? does not have the dust cover, or bipod. the bolt is still straight, and has not been bent to accomdate a scope. personally, i like to keep guns as vintage as possible, so this is a plus for me.

i'm still on the fence about learning the entire re-load thing. i suppose it makes me a bit nervous, along with the fact that i'm a tad on the lazy side. i would like to think that i could fire the gun from time to time though.

again, thank you all so very much for the tremendous amount of feedback. i appriciate all of your answers, and i will most likely be re-reading much of what all of you have shared with me. i'm so very glad i stumbled upon this forum.

thank you all for the warm welcome.

-Bohb
 
Pics 1/2

XhRs71I.jpg

NA13FhV.jpg

dblm6zf.jpg

bKpdOIk.jpg

uoVNxh3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top