Motor Oil For Lube. Which is Best?

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How about stop using any oil on your guns. Just use paste wax to protect the finish and a tiny bit of lube where needed. It's not that I have any objection to motor oil - it's just messy.
 
When I said oil was oil, I only meant it all starts from the same place. It's after that that matters.
Only new oil. If you're going to use pre used oil, you might as well throw in some sand while you're at it.
Heavy weights will probably cause problems, at least with semiautomatic guns where part need to move quickly. Too much would be a problem as well, but then again, too much gun oil would be a problem.
Gun oil is usually a very light oil, and we'll filtered. Sewing machine oil is even lighter, and as well or better filtered.
3 in 1 oil is a lousy gun lubricant, you can watch it gum up.
Wd 40 is lousy as well, and will eat bluing over time.
I've thought about atf Trans fluid, seems it might work well. Trans fluid is loaded with detergents, you don't see a dirty transmission inside. Also very light, and probably well filtered due to running through a valve body. Only problem is transmissions don't run near the Temps as inside an engine, so I don't know how well it would hold up to hot semiautomatic.
I had a can somewhere of usgi cold weather arms lubricant. Very thin, almost like water. Looked kind of like Trans fluid mixed with something to thin it. Smelled strange. I need to find that can again.
 
Transmission fluid isn't a great lubricant because it is so thin, as you note, but it is an EXCELLENT cleaner.

Ed's Red uses ATF as it's primary cleaner.

As for paste wax, I've been advocating Johnson's Paste Wax (and using it) since the 1980s.

Some of my earliest messages here were discussing Johnson's effectiveness in protecting firearms.
 
For about fifty years now I have used a 50/50 (appx.) blend of Three-In-One and automotive motor oil. Most often the motor oil is Quaker State. Really haven't found any difference as to label.

Motor oil was first recommended to me by the late Ed Mason, Memphis gunsmith. The reason he suggested was motor oil is formulated to remove carbon build-up. So began using it around 1959 and haven't found a better replacement since.

I oil the entire surface of my gun very heavily, then wipe it down with a cloth or paper towel. I've tried other greases and waxes, none exceed the performance of my method.

Bob Wright
 
Although I use BreakFree LP exclusively on my guns, I wouldn't think twice about using a few drops of motor oil on my guns if I had nothing else. If memory serves, I believe that Armalite used to have in their technical library some years ago, a technical note regarding the acceptability of using motor oil to lubricate their rifles. If it is good enough for the folks who designed the gun, then I'd be fine with it, too.
 
I have some Mobil 1 0W-20 (for where I want a light, easy flowing oil) and some 20W-50 (where I want it thicker).

Still, I only use those on rifles. Not handguns. I prefer lighter non-toxic CLPs on handguns since they get handled/carried much more. Motor oil seems to work great on my AR-15s, but I just don't really want that on something that I'm going to have in close contact with my clothing. Motor oil will lube fine, but I've seen some tests that show it doesn't really have great long lasting protectant properties (something like a CLP will do better at protecting against rust). So I do tend to tailor the product to the way I handle and use the item I'm using it on.

I've even been using TW25 grease more and more in places like semiauto frame rails and shotgun action bars... so sometimes the answer of "what oil to use" is, on occasion "not oil."
 
For almost 15 years I used Mobil1 15W50 in my Harleys and in my guns. Never had a lubrication issue with either. A few years ago I switched to Valvoline VR1 20W50 in my bikes and my guns. Still haven't had a lubrication issue with either.
 
there are a whole lot of things in motor oil.. how do those things react to contact with gun cleaning solvents? If they react, will that reaction degrade the effectiveness of the oil protective or viscous qualities.

People keep talking about a bottle lasting 10 years.. but what is the acidic levels of motor oil that has been sitting that long.
 
but what is the acidic levels of motor oil that has been sitting that long.
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I doubt synthetic oil changes at all if stored in a closed container

For the first few hundred years of firearms, people got by quite well with noly animal fats and whale oil

If you put something slick on your gun, and you don't put too much of it, there won't be any problems
 
FireForged said:
People keep talking about a bottle lasting 10 years.. but what is the acidic levels of motor oil that has been sitting that long.
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There is no acid level in new motor oil, no matter how long it sits on the shelf. Motor oil in an internal combustion engine develops a level of acidity due to products of combustion getting past the piston rings into the crankcase.
 
lube

this thred reminds my of my friends giving me a hard time about oil i use. at one time we had 2 diesels and 2 gassers. diesels called for 15w40 oil, gassers 5w30? i went to diesel oil all 4 vehicles. over 250k mi. gassers only no engine problems. if oil will stand up to diesel why not gas.
 
Nothing new here, Mobil One keeps my pile of AR's singing like a chubby opera lady....love the stuff...even put it in my Pick up truck ...of all things!
 
I have used Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic extensively and their 10W-30 to a lesser extent. It is an excellent gun lube. I spent many hours researching the issue and came to the conclusion that this is some of the best lubricant for guns you can get at any price. The only downside is potential toxic effects with extensive exposure on the skin which also exists in many, but not all, gun oils (you can wear latex gloves). I also recognize that there are a lot of good lubricants out there. I just generally don't feel like paying an inflated price for them. Who thinks the big oil companies are refining oil specifically to lubricate guns? Everybody just adds a couple of additives and then market the product.
 
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