"Super-Accurate"?
I don't know what that is, but the MN would not qualify.
That being said, here is the MN sporter I've just finished:
And, these are the two groupings I shot with it, first time ever fired, SURPLUS ammo...
First seven shots, upper right. Couple of fliers, could've been me...
Dialed the scope down and left, all but two shots of the next ten were in the diamond.
Took it out to 225 yards a couple of weeks ago- with my first run of handloads. 6" plates, the rifle did not miss once I had zeroed the scope. Now, granted, all I can say from that is sub 3 MOA..but I will be taking paper as well as steel this weekend.
Since then, I've added a Limbsaver recoil pad and more importantly, a Timney trigger. I'm confident that with the handloads, the rifle will shoot 2 MOA or better, if I do my part.
"Super Accurate", hell no. We've got a .308 Savage and a .223 Remington 700 that'll embarass it. But that wasn't the point of my project. I wanted to see if I could build a "decent" long range rifle on the cheap, capable of ringing steel out to 600-800 yards. The 7.62 x 54R is easily capable of precision at that distance.
I've got a fun-to-shoot, durable rifle for not much $$ (well, not including the Vortex glass
) that's
way more accurate than "minute of deer".
Everyone needs to bear in mind that shooting these rifles outta their crappy wood original stocks cannot be compared to a modern rifle in
it's stock.
Put it in a Boyd's (or other aftermarket) bed the action and install pillars, free-float the barrel- and you've got a whole different rifle.
IMO, the most important thing is to have a nice shiny bore, with well defined lands. Mine was a plain, re-arsenaled 91/30. Slugged the bore ( a requirement for handloading) and it eats up .311 Matchkings...
For collectors, bore/chamber condition is a consideration, not an overriding factor.
If you want a shooter, it's the
main consideration, IMO.