Mosin-Nagant

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This subject may have been beat to death, but at least this does not hijack the thread of someone else.
Gun store has a case of the Moisin-Nagant for about $193 with local sales tax included-- out the door. Seems high compared to the prices that others mention for these, but no shipping or FFL fees to be added.
Includes bayonet, cleaning kit and ammo pouch. The accessories were not on display. Heavily coated in preservative, but not as dark and thick as the cosmoline of 50 years ago. Some stocks have small expertly-done patches in the area around the trigger assembly. Not sure what to make of the markings. On the left side just in front of the bolt, small etchings that appear to be done with laser-- appear to be a serial number and the abbreviation of some company apparently in Vermont or Virginia. No doubt these were done recently. With all the grease, handling was problematic with the clothes I was wearing.
I did not buy one.
Would you suggest that I do? Price too high? Do the new markings offer any information about what model this is or the importer?.
 
Importer stamps (what you're looking at) don't matter...Richmond Arms, CAI, etc...

Street price online now is $129, at multiple dealer sites. Add about $20/rifle for shipping (less for multiples combining shipping), and at $150 I'd say it's far from a "deal" at $193, even if it includes FFL transfers if you don't have a C&R.

There was another thread recently on this, and they (the sellers) seem to think the crate has value, while I think they'd have to pay ME to take it away...

Laws of economics would generally indicate that volume purchases deserve a discount, not a price PREMIUM...

I'd call someone like J&G or AIM, negotiate a quantity buy including shipping, and also negotiate a deal for all the transfers with a local FFL. I'm sure you can do better than the "deal" you're looking at.
 
The crate was not for individual rifles-- big crate with 30 or more rifles. Buy one and you just get a box--assumed to be corrugated, also not on display. They did offer 3 for about $171 each out the door-- but I do not want or need 3. Probably will just forgo the Moisin altogether. I do have an 1891 Chilean Mauser.
 
I just saw an add for cabelas. They were on sale for $129 each. I have seen them cheaper on slickguns.com and the like.
My 1942 also has the etched american arms company label on it. I think they are just the ones who get them from Russia and sell them to gun stores marked up, who sell them to us marked up. That's my impression at least... I don't think they actually do anything with the weapon.
 
I don't think that is too far out of line for a retail price.

Yeah, there are vendors selling for less, but the AIM/Classic Arms/JG Sales prices are not really retail prices. For the retail places, you also are pretty much with the luck of the draw as far as what you get. If you have a crate to go through, you get to pick the one you want out of the pile.

So if I was going to order one (and pretend I didn't have an 03 FFL),
$130 for the rifle, $20 shipping, $20 FFL Fee, $25 state background check fee, I am at $195 out the door, and I am still stuck with whatever rifle I get.

The marking is most likely the import mark, from Century Arms. There are some comments on what to look for in this thread:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=532586
 
The linked thread was helpful plus entertaining. I was going to ask about the aerosol brake parts cleaner. Any reason not to use it on metal gun parts?
 
A touch pricy

I got mine recently for $179 and that was with the coveted hex receiver. Plus it was pretty well cleaned up. The non hex were selling for $159.
Live well, be safe
Prof Young
 
I was going to ask about the aerosol brake parts cleaner. Any reason not to use it on metal gun parts?
Click to expand...

I seem to recall it being good at removing oils from metal, so if you use it on a gun you should make sure it is oiled before you put the gun away.
 
If one owns a Mosin-Nagant, the cans of surplus ammo typically note that the primers are corrosive. Lots of videos on YouTube showing Cosmoline removal from the M-N with hot water. Does the cleaning after using corrosive ammo also need to be that extensive or is some simpler, faster, procedure adequate? Imagine shooting 5 rounds in 5 minutes and then cleaning for an hour or more. Doesn't work well for me.
 
not really uncommon, that's about the average price around here before tax.

a lot of guys claiming you can still get them for $100 have C&R FFLs so they get dealer pricing on them. a lot of times you are lucky to find them online for less than $150 and then you have to pay shipping and FFL fee so really the pricing comes out to about the same either way. the days of $50 mosin nagants are long gone, I'm afraid.
 
If you just want to pop off a couple rounds with your mosin, I'd suggest buying modern non corrosive 7.62x54r, like PPU (prvi partizan). If you're going to be shooting it all day then corrosive surplus is definitely the way to go, it's worth the clean up after.
 
when i return from the range i remove barrel from wood while my tea kettle warms up. when it whistles i pour some boiling down the chamber to flush out the salt used in primer. then a dry patch then start cleaning my mosin nagants,SKS's or whatever else i take to desert and shoot some $.16 each soviet or bulgarian light ball spam can surplus. SKS T56 shoots tulammo fine.
 
i bought a MN M31-30 from royal tiger in april for $60 as a parts gun. i traded my 1944 MN M44 for a 1927 ex dragoon MN M91-30.. now i buy T53 MN chinese M44 from century arms for $60 each using my C&R03FFL. the last 2 T53 were 1954.4 and a 1955 and both had soviet M44 stocks on them and all matching numbers. one (1954,4) was missing front magazine/action screw and other was missing the front metal ferral on hand guard. i just ordered wed morning another T53 ($60)and a good austrian M95 8X56R carbine ($120).. the M95 will kick more than any MN and will stop my whining about "excessive recoil":eek:
 
when i return from the range i remove barrel from wood while my tea kettle warms up. when it whistles i pour some boiling down the chamber to flush out the salt used in primer. then a dry patch
Click to expand...

I don't take it out of the wood, but that is a good way to do it.

-Put on the tea pot.
-Fix bayonet.
-Stick rifle in ground behind garage.
-Squirt boiling water into chamber with Turkey Baster several times, so a good quantity of water has gone through the bore. I also dip the front 1/2" of the bolt into the water, and swirl it around a couple times.
-wait ~30 seconds, most of the water will evaporate.
-put catch pan under bore, squirt wd40 into chamber, until it runs out muzzle. Squirt WD40 on the bolt face, and in the firing pin hole.
-squirt breakfree into chamber until it runs out the muzzle, plus on the bolt face, and in the firing pin hole (tiny bit).
-run 1 dry patch through.

And you are done. It takes about a minute, including the time waiting for the water to evaporate.

The water doesn't need to be boiling to remove the salts, but it evaporates faster. Lately I have just been using hot tap water, and it still works fine, and is a little quicker.
 
I use patches soaked with Windex with vinegar, about 6, initially.
Then a dry patch. Then four or five Break Free patches. Then a brush 10 or so passes, then three or four more Break Free patches, then a dry patch.

That's for regular shooting.
On getting a "new" Mosin, I scrub the rifling thoroughly with a copper removal fluid, brush the bejabbers out of it, use more Break Free patches. Takes longer, but once the initial scrub out's done subsequent shooting cleanup isn't that big a deal.

With high-volume shooting, may run a copper cleaner through once a year or so, just to make sure it doesn't build up too far.

Never bothered with water, too lazy.
Bores on mine are fine.

Pouring boiling water down the barrel is too much hassle for me, it wasn't done by the Russian military, I see no need to do it myself.
Others seem to like it. Won't hurt anything, just more effort than necessary.
Denis
 
Pouring boiling water down the barrel is too much hassle for me, it wasn't done by the Russian military, I see no need to do it myself.
Click to expand...

The Soviets may not have done it, but the British did to clean Enfields. The Soviets certainly did something to clean their rifles, the oil cans we al have thrown in a drawer someplace had 2 compartments, one of which was some sort of solvent.

Funny you think hot water is "too much of a hassle" yet by your description you use about 16 patches. I use 1.
 
having passed on a lot of MNs when the expensive ones were $79, I've got no interest in any at more than double that price.

Now, if its a case of Moisin Nagants for $193 AND they throw in the case, I'd buy that.:D

If you shoot surplus European ammo, assume it is corrosive primed. Clean with water, first, (doesn't have to be hot to work) then normal cleaning & oil.

Someone was on here a little while ago, warning us all about the dangers of "flash rust" from using hot/boiling water. He might be right, but I've never noticed it. I think hot water is a good idea, because after you clean, you can have tea! :D (or coffee)

Some people swear by Windex, for cleaning out the corrosive salts. It works. But not because of the ammonia, because of the water in it.
 
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