Mauser 98 Question

T

Truckeic

New member
I have a Mauser 98 and would like to know if there is any value in this gun, I ask because the barrel is rusting and needs refinishing. I would like to do this myself but know that refinishing a gun can harm value. I dont think this gun is worth 3-400 bucks maybe but before i start on this venture can someone chime in set me straight...
Here are the specs..
It is a Mauser 98 in 25-06
Couple of pics:
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/truckeic/library/mauser?sort=3&page=1
 
You're not going to hurt it. Any collector value it had is gone. Clean it up and enjoy it. I'd look into finding a nicer piece of wood instead of that cut down military stock tho.
 
Hi Truckeic
I am sorry to tell you this, but in all likelihood it's not worth much as it sits.
I see it has Weaver bases on it, but in many (if not most) cases when 2 piece bases are put on old Mausers they are not done perfectly, so that will actually drop the value if they are even a bit off.
The addition of the scope-safety will add a bit of value, but only $25 or so.
If the rifle has no bottom metal you can subtract about $75 from what it would have been worth if the action was in 100% full military condition.

If the barrel on your rifle is rusted inside the bore it's worthless, so we are looking only at a receiver. If the bore and chamber are good you can add about $100 to the value.
So when we consider that good stripped Mausers can be had for about $300.
If the scope bases are not perfectly installed you need to subtract about $100.
If the bottom metal is missing you then subtract about $75 more.
So you have a receiver that is worth about $125.

Add about $100 IF the barrel is perfect on the inside and about $25 for the scope safety. That still only brings you up to $250 and that is IF the safety is operating perfectly and IF the bore and chamber are as good as new.

I think a better option for you is to build a nice rifle on it rather than try to sell it.

If you build your own rifle on that action you will have fun doing it and end up with something that will last a very long time and give good service as a hunting rifle. To do it right you will spend some money on it, but you can do that over a year or two. You can correct any misalignment of the scope bases by going to a 1 piece "bride mount" and even if the screws are not aligned you can fill the old holes, install the new base and in the bad cases you can solder on a scope base made of steel.

You buy a milled magazine, floor plate, follower and spring.
You rework the trigger or replace it with a Timney.
I would recommend reworking the bolt handle to make it prettier.
Re-shape the trigger guard from the military shape.
Install a good looking stock. You have options here from plastic drop-ins to full blown custom jobs with high grade wood and fine checkering.
Put on a good pad, some swivels and finish everything up nicely.

I want you show you one here. The reason is that this gun started out about like yours. With some TLC you can make one that looks this way.
 
It has already been extensively modified so it has zero collector value. A military rifle must be in totally original condition to please collectors. This is now a sporter. Do whatever it takes to get into shooting shape and shoot it.
 
Agreed, looks like somebody did the metal work of the Golden Age of Sporterizing then ran out of money and just cut down the military stock instead of buying a Fajen.

If you want to sell it, scrub the rust off and take what it will bring... not much.
If you want to use it, fix it up to suit yourself.
 
I am looking at refinishing the barrel myself.. But some of you guys are saying the boar.. which i am guessing is inside of the barrel may be bad as well... May get a gunsmith to look it over and tell me if the action is OK and how the barrel is.. Unless someone can tell me what to look for.. This was my dads old gun and would like to get it shooting again..

Thanks
 
Yes the bore is the inside of the barrel.
Clean the bore with a rod and a 25 cal bore brush and look through it. It should have sharp lands and grooves and be nice and shiny.

If it's rough or frosty, or pitted, it's not worth saving in most cases.
 
Ok will look at it tonight...
Is there anyway for me to get an idea if the bolt is good? I have the bottom metal I am assuming you mean the "magazine"

The safety seems to work fine... Any info or help on this would be great. Trying to learn how to work on these. I have built couple AR's and black powder rifle from a kit. So wanted to sand this barrel down re blue and see if it will shoot..

Suggestions to keep from killing myself..
 
Somebody that knows this stuff has to get eyes on it to really answer your questions, but you're getting good advice. The bolt face, where the cartridge goes, might have a mark from the primer but there shouldn't be any or much pitting. In terms of the action, there are many different kinds of Mausers and some are more desirable than others for custom builds. Can you see any marks or words?
 
Why would you think something was wrong with the bolt? It would be pretty difficult to wear one out.

You can take it apart and check it over, look on YouTube for directions on taking it apart. How much rust is on the barrel? If it is just some surface rust, put some gun oil on a rag and start scrubbing. It will get rid of a lot of the rust and not hurt the finish.

It couldn't hurt to check the headspace, but that is something you would take it to a smith for unless you wanted to buy the gauges. Nothing is going to happen to a rifle from sitting, so if it was fine when it was your Dads, it is most likely still fine.

As to value, if it was my dad's rifle, it would be priceless.
 
>I have a Mauser 98 and would like to know if there is any value in this gun,<


You got a lot of good posts in reply.

But, put a good scope on it, get some decent fmj ammo, take it to the range and bench test it for groups at 100 yds. What kind of 5 round groups will it print?
 
Let's see. Looks like you got a project rifle mid-project.
* The rifle has obviously been rebarreled. Do we know what the chambering is? 25-06? Good cartridge.
* Check the trigger, the safety, and the stock bolts to make sure they are safe.
* The rifle is drilled and tapped and has scope bases. Have a smith check it out to determine if the mounts were properly installed. If so . . .
* Mount a scope on the rifle and bore-sight it.
* Buy a box of ammo and go shoot it to see if it is worth doing any further work on.
* If it shoots well, have it reblued and drop it into a stock (Boyds makes nice ones for the money).
 
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Using the close-up feature, I think it's an early commercial action in an ex-mil stock. ??? I wouldn't tell him to shoot it without at least having it positively identified and headspaced.
 
"get some decent fmj ammo, take it to the range and bench test it for groups at 100 yds"

Where might a person find this type of ammo in 25/06?
My take is the OP didn't seem to know what the BOAR(bore) was, so is likely less than handy at what he's proposing to do. Results may be even worse than current condition.
wyosmith gave an excellent estimation of what was going on.
 
I bought a refurbished Yugo capture K98 (the actual Yugo designation is called a M98) a few years back for $250 found out after a field strip and an inspection the rifle is almost all numbers matching ( wrong firing pin) but the stock was "bubba bedded" and modified for the use of a clamp on barrel type scope mount. Still really like my Yugo and its a decent shooter. . like any antique military rifle some years are worth huge collector money but most are not. I buy weekly shooters not safe queens.
 
Using the close-up feature, I think it's an early commercial action in an ex-mil stock.
Click to expand...

Really need to see better photos of the action. If you are using a camera, use the setting that looks like a flower.

Get a photo of the rail of the whole left side of the action, close enough to see any markings. Also get a closer shot of the right side of the action, and if possible the top of the action whe3re the forward scope base is.

Better yet, remove the front scope base and take a photo.
 
It happens I have one rebarreled new stock etc in .270

412084122.jpg
 
Well let me say I appreciate the info..
I will say i am not the smartest guy on the block... but far from the stupidest..The question about the boar was to make sure I was correct in my mind...I do TV for a living and shooting for a hobby and before I go and stick a 25-06 round in the gun a pull the trigger have the thing blow up thought I would ask some questions...

I have asked a gunsmith how much to clean up this barrel and check headspace. he wanted 300 bucks which for a gun not worth that really would like to get it shooting and preserved myself.

That is why I was asking what are the "warning" signs to look for in an old gun. the bolt feels good locks and the safety and trigger work well. I am going to look in the BORE... and see how bad the rusting is there and i know the outside has some rust on it.. I think I can polish it down and get it back to a shooter and preserve the barrel.

Thanks again for the info and answers and if you think I am an idiot.. sorry you don't have to reply.....
 
Nothing stupid about it, and for $300 the gunsmith better not only check headspace but strip, polish and reblue the gun. I paid $100 for my last check, bead blast and reblue.
My suggestion is, take the action out of the stock (so you can see the condition of the underside, often the worse area for rust). Post good pictures here, and you'll get an honest opinion if it's worse putting money in.
 
I have asked a gunsmith how much to clean up this barrel and check headspace. he wanted 300 bucks
Click to expand...

Screw that. Did he offer you a glass of wine, and maybe some flowers?

You can check the headspace yourself for ~$60.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/76...-8mm-06-springfield-338-06-a-square-35-whelen
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/78...-8mm-06-springfield-338-06-a-square-35-whelen

It should close on the go, and not on the nogo.

I would also ask the gunsmith how much just to check the headspace. Or call around to other gunsmiths. It takes about a minute, and I would be shocked if a competent gunsmith doesn't have the gages.

Do you know the history of the rifle? Did you dad shoot it? If yes, and it has been sitting in a closet since, I would not bother. Buy some factory ammo, take it to the range and shoot it. K98 is a strong action, and even if the headspace is excessive it is not going to blow up on you (unless the barrel is blocked).

How rusty is it? If it is just some surface rust, try what I posted earlier.
 
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